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89 Quest Build Thread


Frenchi934
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Your doing a fine job with this car young man and what is impressing me mostly is your keeping the car very close to stock shape.

Something nice about an all original car ,i hope in the future i see more of this way of thinking then survival rates may stop going rapidly South , keep up the great work ! :)

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Frenchie what color is that? is that a fiji blue or a viper blue?

 

It's a sherwin williams color, I believe it's called bomber blue. You can get it throught summit, its the two stage varient.

 

 

Ill have to see what my school schedule looks like early next week but I might make it down there. (I found the topic right after I asked haha)

 

Your doing a fine job with this car young man and what is impressing me mostly is your keeping the car very close to stock shape.

Something nice about an all original car ,i hope in the future i see more of this way of thinking then survival rates may stop going rapidly South , keep up the great work ! :)

 

Much appreciated sir

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Ill have to see what my school schedule looks like early next week but I might make it down there. (I found the topic right after I asked haha)

 

 

 

Cool! If you need a ride let me know, I have no issue in picking you up along the way :D

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Day 7: (7-2-10)

 

Today I got to use the new parts washing bin http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/public/style_emoticons/default/happy.gif

haha

 

Began to disassemble the engine. Here you can see that the timing cover was removed and you'll notice the missing chain:

 

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/2366/sdc10461x.jpg

 

It was a little strange to find that the balance shafts spun freely as did the oil pump..

Then pulled the cam... There was a minimal amount of scoring where the cam rotates... still have to check and see if it's in clearances but might end up with a Nonjet head afterall..

 

http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/3149/sdc10465t.jpg

 

Heres a shot to show how the cylinders have been burning. The spark plugs seemed to tell the same story.

 

http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/8547/sdc10466.jpg

 

Heres a shot of the under side of the head:

 

http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/2161/sdc10470q.jpg

 

 

I never looked at this thread and I'm not going to read it all but I did skim over it and I didn't see mentioned what was obvious to me what killed what was a newly remanufactured engine by a high quality source. That was a reman'd head too but I doubt it was from Jasper it likely came from someone else and all they bought from Jasper was a short block w/pump. The motor didn't look any different from any other motor that ran too rich to have all that soot in the combustion chamber and on the piston dish and that could have happened all the time or only in the last couple miles that wasn't a problem at all. Even though someone paid a good amount of money for that Jasper engine what killed it was someone reused the old trashed timing components. They used hardware store bolts to put on some of the guides so they lost some parts from the old motor or didn't get them from the junkyard motor they took these worn out parts from and you can see how old the guides are from the baked on burnt oil and the upper guide is set almost at its upper limit so that balance shaft chain was very floppy all the time until it snapped after it skipped off one of the gears. Even the timing chain guides were old. They could have also installed the upper guide pivot bolt wrong and didn't get the lock washer against the block and had it next to the bolt head and the chain couldn't run true on the guide. You should go find that cheap hack DUMBASZZ that did this and PUNCH THEM STRAIGHT IN THE FACE for causing this and wasting all that money. Those Jasper engines are not cheap. I'd suspect the owner paid some hack shop to do this. No way would someone that paid out the cash for this reuse those old timing parts again and I bet it cost them 4-4500.00 for a doomed engine that wouldn't have been if they paid 75.00 more. This is the cheap hack stuff that really pisses me off.

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Sure the balance shafts spun fine they weren't the problem. If you still them pm me. The pump that got replaced would have the same appearance as the guides if they had been replaced. OEM and Japan made parts for balance shaft guides have a yellow/green tint coating on them, maybe to help shed oil I don't know and the material is softer of all the other parts I've seen made elsewhere. The timing guides pads are the same way. The new hardware store bolts that fastened on the old guides aren't dirty. I wonder how many miles the owner got out of that engine.
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Sure the balance shafts spun fine they weren't the problem. If you still them pm me. The pump that got replaced would have the same appearance as the guides if they had been replaced. OEM and Japan made parts for balance shaft guides have a yellow/green tint coating on them, maybe to help shed oil I don't know and the material is softer of all the other parts I've seen made elsewhere. The timing guides pads are the same way. The new hardware store bolts that fastened on the old guides aren't dirty. I wonder how many miles the owner got out of that engine.

 

I still have the balance shafts and rebuilt the motor with all new timing components. Should be good to go now. It was really unfortunate that it let go so prematurely, the previous owner didn't get all that many miles out of her but it took him more than the 3 years allowed by the warranty to do so so he was out of luck. Very crummy situation really.

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Very Nice Job. Props to you!

 

Also if he had a 3 year warranty from jasper then it would have been a Complete rebuild with head and timing components. They don't warranty short blocks beyond 6 months. 3 years is on complete engines only.

 

Dad

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Yes I believe that he got a complete engine from them. They must have remaufactured the head too. The cam journals were already bored .20 over and the block was 2mm overbore. It was unrebuildable. I have a fresh block in it now thanks to Jimmy :wub: and a new head from clearwater.
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That was NOT a Jasper timing component installation that was old reused crap with burnt oil on it from a 100k mile motor and new non automotive bolts holding then on. They may have had been told they had a 3yr warranty and is what they though they got and paid for then someone else got a short block to save major cash on the cost and a reman'd head from somewhere else and put that garbage on the front of the motor and lied. Its clear as crystal those are old burnt neglected over heated worn out timing chain guides and balance shaft guides on that engine maybe even got from a junkyard motor nobody will ever know.
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Had stuff going on at school this week but did come home for a while on sunday and got a few things done. (small things <_< )

 

painted tow hooks: Rest of the underside will get undercoated later

 

http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/7613/sdc11029.jpg

 

Installed door handles and locks:

 

http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/2658/sdc11030i.jpg

 

Put this on so I can begin work on shaving the gas-door lock:

 

http://img602.imageshack.us/img602/372/sdc11032.jpg

 

And started painting the windshield trim:

 

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/3007/sdc11031g.jpg

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Havent seen fiji in person yet so can't tell you on the metallic but this color has a lot of metal flake in it. I'll be at some of the meets as soon as im done and get back to you on it haha

 

Imagine the photos that you see of the pacific island restorts. Now imagine that sparkling, blue water. Then smear it all over a car.

 

That's fiji.

 

Durban maroon looks like they got into a brawl with plums and lost.

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Just reviewed the whole build very nice.

 

Can I get some more info on that line you used for he ABS delete? I need to do it. I haven't run into a how too and will write one up. I'll give you credit for your help.

 

IIRC it was a 30" line with 8mmX 1.25mm thread pitch ends. It cost less than 5 dollars at autozone. Make sure you get one with a standard flare because the auto parts store I went to tried to tell me all metric lines would take a bubble thread <_<. Also make sure you keep the lines at the ENDS haha. As you can see I managed to forget that the first time I bent a line.

 

Here is a good resource on how to do the ABS delete, though they use a steel braided line instead of a hardline.....

 

CLICK HERE

 

I've even heard of people rebending one of the stock lines to make it work. You can rent a piping bender from autozones lend-a-tool program and all you have to do is pay a deposit, which you get back when you return the tool.

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So far this weekend has mostly been sanding and getting things ready for primer (side skirts, hatch, fuel door, and mirrors).

Aside from that I also shaved the lock from the fuel door and fixed the broken power antenna. Here are a few pictures from the weekends work.

 

To replace the power antenna I took this round cover off:

 

http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/4521/sdc11037.jpg

 

pulled this plastic hoop out with a screwdriver:

 

http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/4522/sdc11038.jpg

 

Here is the part that breaks on these old power antennas:

 

http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/3940/sdc11039i.jpg

 

You also have to remove the old mast:

 

http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/4339/sdc11040p.jpg

 

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/215/sdc11041f.jpg

 

Bought this replacement at autozone for $19: I had to cut 5 inches off the plastic track because it was longer than the stock track, then I used a razor blade to taper the end so it would go in easier.

 

http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/1236/sdc11042fs.jpg

 

Here is the after pictures:

 

http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/2497/sdc11043c.jpg

 

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/7224/sdc11045z.jpg

Edited by Frenchi934
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