Help estimating difficulty

[randyshaw81]

My friend has a Pontiac 350 not sure on the year. I was wondering if swapping that into my 89 tsi be worth the work? I have tons of work to do on the stock conquest engine, and the same for the 350 so lets say its equal. The only thing is that neither of us have worked on a conquest engine and my friend is very experienced in 350's. He has a 350 in a Miata... What are were opinions on why i should use one engine or the other?

 

Thanks in Advance

[jszucs]

something you might want to think about. There are a few quests with V8's in them.

 

The v8 swap into a miata has been done way more. The more people that do it the more info that is out there, the more products for it, advice etc. Sometimes even aftermarket support and kits built to fit / bolt in.

 

In the quest world it's going to be for the most part all custom.

[jszucs]

and you should specify what you mean by best outcome

 

 

I took it to mean dollar for dollar producing the same power/ reliabity

[strang3majik]

dollar for dollar you will make more power with the 350, but, theres a couple of things to consider...

 

are you good with a welder?

are you good at fabricating?

are you stiffening up front suspension components to make up for the added weight of a V8?

are you hoping the car will be drivable in a quick fashion? Because if you swap, it won't be.

 

But...theres more things to consider, but, yeah...lol

 

I myself would drop in a chrylser 360 since I don't like crossbreeds...but, it would be cool none the less.

 

But...best bet would be to find an LS1. Same cubes, more power, and not much heavier then the stock engine since its aluminum.

[Alsandr]

I myself would drop in a chrylser 360 since I don't like crossbreeds...but, it would be cool none the less.

A Chrysler into a Mitsubishi isn't a crossbreed?

 

Your car may say Chrysler on it, but it's still a Mitsu.

[strang3majik]

A Chrysler into a Mitsubishi isn't a crossbreed?

 

Your car may say Chrysler on it, but it's still a Mitsu.

 

my title says chrysler, thats enough for me...lol But, no where on it does it say chevy/pontiac/ford, or even toyota for that matter...lol

 

So...I say its a justified swap. But, I'm weird like that...even street rods should keep there companies engines. SBC are cheap, so, everyone uses them. Kinda getting old though...lol

[Alsandr]

my title says chrysler, thats enough for me...lol But, no where on it does it say chevy/pontiac/ford, or even toyota for that matter...lol

 

So...I say its a justified swap. But, I'm weird like that...even street rods should keep there companies engines. SBC are cheap, so, everyone uses them. Kinda getting old though...lol

I'm just giving you a hard time.

 

I think it's funny that the only places I've found it actually saying Chrysler on the title and the outside. Inside the engine everything is Mitsu.

[strang3majik]

I'm just giving you a hard time.

 

I think it's funny that the only places I've found it actually saying Chrysler on the title and the outside. Inside the engine everything is Mitsu.

 

haha...and...don't forget the little plate saying "Built by Mitsubishi for Chrysler Corporation"

 

Mine also has a pentastar on the passenger's fender like the muscle cars did...but, once again, I'm wierd like that...haha.

[starquestG54B]

if you want to do a V8 swap. then swap in a NEW 5.7l or 6.1l hemi in it they weigh ALOT less then a 350 and are very abundent

[movin on]

Actually v8starion said his car weighs less with the 350 and a th400 transmission. Kenmarrow said The weight difference between the stock MESS and SBC is minimal. So it really depends on the set-up.

[Indiana]

When you can get an old 350 to 30mpg let me know, the price of the fuel after this is done is one thing overlooked. The the old motor sucked in the fuel in what ever it was in before its still going to suck in the fuel. The 2.6 off boost can get you great economy and have plenty of power when you need it. All the things attached to the motor that make the power you need to learn about. If you can properly assemble a 350 you can also do a 2.6 there are no special needs or tools or tricks. Bearings are bearings and a flat deck is a flat deck. You can't dip headbolts in oil and use them in a 350 or 2.6 and expect to get accurate torque readings in either. If the 350 motor sits on a curve on a half mile banked oval track and locks up from lack of oil pressure the same thing happens to a 2.6 pulling hard up a steep hill. If you have too much timing on your 350 it runs hot same for a 2.6 so all these things are the same ideas just looks different on the garage floor. 2.6 parts for a rebuild are one thing IF you have to get OS pistons but unless the block is all rusty and BADLY pitted in the cylinder walls then do NOT bore that block over or throw out old stock pistons unless they are damaged. Old pistons are good pistons in this motor, not always true for others. Most reasons this motor is bored over is for a change of pistons and its not always needed and is a waste of money. Those original crosshatch marks in the cylinder walls are still there so don't think they are ready to rub off they are just fine. If there was coolant left in the motor after a cracked head or blown headgasket and it ruined the cylinder walls that's too bad you might attempt to use rust remover and have the block honed then see what it measures out to before you get new pistons. OS pistons are when the cost of rebuilding this motor can double from the parts and the machine work. Most all parts for this motor are very reasonable in price and are very common to any parts store. The oil pump is for some strange reason over priced just because its not very common even though its the same pump used since 1984. If you want a higher redline and expect this motor to live mostly at those levels I'd suggest you get an external oil pressure regulator of some type this motor at very high rpms just has too much oil pressure and it sucks the pan dry in a few seconds and there's the reason for the rod bearings to knock.

[movin on]

Not trying to hi-jack, but what kind of mileage does a built 2.6 get (say just a head build)? Of course since he is probably thinking about a good amount of power. So say a t3/t4 combo running 18-20 psi, maft, at least a 850 primary, or two secondaries (or maybe a little milder set-up also). Would it be possible just to put a built head on the old block, or would there most likely be too much warping, or some other issue. I was actually going to buy a 81 olds cutlass and just build a sbc before buying the quest, but the mileage and handling differences were the determining factors.

[randyshaw81]

i was thinking money wise would it be cheaper to improve on the 2.6 or drop a 350 in the car, and weld and fabricate. I am good with measurements and fabrication, but i am not a good welder, my buddy is. Last night i got to thinking about the gas mileage with a 350 in the quest and i was like geez i would be buying gas everyday. I live in michigan so i only plan on driving the car on the most perfect of days. So gas is less of an issue. The most important issue that i have is the initial cost of getting the 2.6 to the hp i want would be more expensive then swapping a 350 in.

 

I will look into an LS1 i seen that build log and it was a pretty extensive build. I am a perfectionist as well so i dont think time is an issue.

 

Does anyone had a list of mods they used to get to lets say 300hp in the quest and the total price. I need brands and all that cause i am pretty stupid when it somes to parts i havent heard of.