Chrome_Rush Posted March 14, 2010 Report Share Posted March 14, 2010 Hi all, my names Aaron, I have loved these cars for some time, never had the space or resources to get one until recently, finally found one worth my time I live in michigan finding one that doesnt have holes everywhere and actually has floor baords is a miracle. So I found one and here I am. ITs an 87 TSI, 5 speed. Engine, transmission, turbo and clutch were all completely rebuilt/replaced less than 1000 miles ago. New fuel pump, master cylinder, larger injectors, slave cylinder, o2 sensor and some other things im sure im forgeting. Black leather in very good condition, no rips or wear spots. Underbody, rear hatch area, front fenders and doors are all 100% rust free. The only rust on the car is just in front of the rear tire, and its bad enough to have to cut out and replace, if anybody has that panel I am in need of it. I dont see any bubbling in the same spot on the other side, but I will check it out better to make sure. Lights and wipers didnt work, found a shotty repair on fuseable link #2 and will be fixing that as soon as I can get to it. Other than that theres a grinding sound comming from the back end of the car I havent had time to look into. The most major thing is it has a pretty significant running issue. IT will idle fine, and even drive fine as long as i dont take it much past 2k rpm, but if I give it any gas it falls flat on its face and just stumbles. Only one code pulled, ISC servo, I dont see how that being bad would casue this issue though. Not really sure where to start digging for this issue. I want this car to be all it can be, Once i get all these problems fixed the rear fun can start, MODS. Oh ya, kind of weird thing I wanted to ask about, I didnt see any info on these ever coming from the factory with a cd player, adn I find it odd, escpecially in an 87, most people didnt have a cd player in there house in 87, but this car has a FACTORY cd player installed. I could see maybe if it had the radio with seperate tape deck and somebody swapped that out, but it has the radio with tape deck built in, and a seperate cd player. Confusing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOOSTED88tsi Posted March 14, 2010 Report Share Posted March 14, 2010 radio is from a newer (early 90's) mitsubishi. There all the same size and most plug right in.Sounds like your secondary injector isn't working at all. It kicks in around 2kish. Welcome and read up in the Faq sections! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drwojo Posted March 14, 2010 Report Share Posted March 14, 2010 Welcome sir. There seems to be a decent following in Mi now for these cars. Most of us are willing to help with any problems. Start with what boosted88 said and clean the injector clips to see if this helps. Good luck and welcome aboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrome_Rush Posted March 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2010 Alright, that makes sense on the radio, thought a factory looking cd player was a little odd in an 87. I just looked at the quarter panel on the other side and theres no rust on that. Looks like the only rust on the car is right behind the driver side rear tire. Finding a patch panel is im sure pretty difficult, anybody know a way to find it? If the secondary injector isnt kicking in at all what could be the problem there? ITs great to know what it most likely is, now I guess the question is how do I fix it/what would be causing it? I did read through the FAQ section, and saw that that is a fairly common issue, I checked the connection like it states and the connection looked fine, I took some sandpaper to it anyways jsut to be sure but its still not working. I cant wait to start modding this thing, I hope I can get all the issues fixed fast and paint it. Oh ya, anybody know where to find the TSI decal for the fender and the conquest wording decal for the hatch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jszucs Posted March 16, 2010 Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 for the patch panel put up a wanted post here. Same with the decals. Which TSI decals are you looking for, for the front? I belive there is two types one that is small and the TSI is kindof leaning and one that looks like the font for the back. Depending on where your rust hole is or how bad it is you might be better off just cutting it out and welding in new metal. If it's the whole corner you would obvioulsy want someone to cut an older fender for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrome_Rush Posted March 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 Ya its the whole corner, from the door all the way to the wheel, I pulled off the sticker thing today in the garage and theres not much steel behind it. The under part is gone to. I also found the right side frame rail to have some rust issues. THe floor pan is totally rust free but I will need to weld in some new steel on the frame rail. The other side is spotless, and the floorpans are spotless, kind of weird. THe whole car is solid besides that one frame rail and that quarter panel, the quarter on the other side just has some really minor surface rust on it on the fender lip. Just a little strange that the whole car is rust free but a decent piece of the frame rail and the quarter panel on one side is rotten through. GIves me an excuse to weld something I guess lol. I still cant find my running issue. I checked the contacts to the injectors and both are clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burton Posted March 20, 2010 Report Share Posted March 20, 2010 Well, if the car is a MI car and the drivers side is rotted out, I can guarantee you that the other area is not far behind. Those spots rust from the inside out, so even tho you don't see the rust, it's there, it just hasn't made it out to the paint yet. If you pull the passengerside trim panel next to the back seat, you should be able to see down inside the body there and see how bad the rust is on the inside. The 1/4 patches aren't impossible to find, it's just that few people who part these cars out are willing to take the time to cut out donor panels, so they don't come up for sale much. I sold some last year, and I think I've seen two other people selling them since then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrome_Rush Posted March 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2010 Its actually a kentucky car, It was brought to Michigan about 10 years ago, stuck in a barn and left for dead. Driven maybe a total of 100 miles in Michigan. How do I pull that rear trim panel to check the other side? I cna see how the driver side rusted out, the steel on the inner fender is gone and caused water to get behind the panel, on the other side the inner fender steel is rust free, didnt feel any soft spots, but like you said it could be there, so I would like to take a peak. I can tell by looking through the door gap with the door open both front fenders are 100% rust free. Well, while I was making a new link for fuseable link#2 I bumped my finger into the ignition switch fuseable link and it just came off. So I made another one for there. What do you know, now the car will rev past 2k without stumbling. I actually took it out of my garage and drove it down the street, and I did it WITH THE LIGHTS ON. So replacing those 2 links fixed the lighting system and appears to have fixed my running issue as well. Heard some noise coming from up front though, I appear to be leaking power steering fluid now, awesome. Also, I had hoped fixing fuseable link 2 would also make the wipers work since they run off that link, no such luck, I still have no front or rear wipers, or squirters. The whole system isnt working. Pulled the car back into the garage, shut off the lights and the damn headlight doors wouldnt close. They worked flawlessly up until I fixed the headlights. Now they wont go back down, and yes I checked the headlight door switch on the right of the instrument cluster. The fuses looked ok, so im guessing maybe relays are bad for the wipers. As for the headlight doors I was screwing around with them once i got the lights working trying to figure out the parking lights and how to turn on the foglights and all that. Could opening and closing them a bunch of times in a row have burned out the relay for the pop ups? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrome_Rush Posted March 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2010 Update, all electrical gremlins running wild have been found and chocked to death. "Dont feed them after midnight or get them wet". I have a stack of parts coming from MI_mitsu I will be getting shortly to add on. The problem with it stumbling bad and not going past 2k rpm is also gone. Found a nearly broken connection on the fuse link for the ignition, just touching it made it break off, fixed it started the car and it revs fine now. On to performance mods and body work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrome_Rush Posted May 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2010 (edited) Alright guys, I bought a car for parts from a local member, quarters are totally shot as is the passenger frame rail, but other than that everything seems to be great on it. In a few weeks im going to be stripping it to the shell, than cutting it up to take for scrap. Are there any issues I may run into while taking it apart? Anything you could tell me to make dismantling the car easier would be great. Also, how do I get the windshield out? I know they are out of production, The one in my quest is perfect, but so is the one in the parts car, so I would like to keep it as a spare. Since im cutting up the car might it be easier to literally cut it out of the frame? Also, I still have a running issue, In the driveway I can rev it as high as I want, all the way to redline and it doesnt miss a beat, but as soon as I throw her in gear and put a load on it trying to actually DRIVE the car, it gets to around 3 grand and falls on its face. could it still be the ISC Servo causing this? Seems to me that only effects idle speed while your not on the gas. I know thats how the one in my throttle body injected ford is, if it goes you get an irratic idle low or high but when you get on the gas it doesnt do anything and the car drives normally. Than again, thats how it works in my ford. Edited May 23, 2010 by Chrome_Rush Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrome_Rush Posted August 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2010 I figured I should update this, Finally got some work done on this car. I repainted the rear bumper, swapped the still shinny red mirrors from my parts car onto mine, painted the pink spoiler flat black, and repainted the air dam. I also bought the 18" boss 338's from night of mopar and put those on it. I have a little body work and a full paint to do, and I still have a running issue, but its drivable now at least and looks pretty decent. http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs142.ash2/40456_143610002334461_100000563858621_304372_7927354_n.jpghttp://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs234.snc4/39062_143610882334373_100000563858621_304377_1555693_n.jpghttp://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs220.snc4/39321_143610039001124_100000563858621_304374_816058_n.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allen405 Posted August 7, 2010 Report Share Posted August 7, 2010 Wow, those are nice rims. welcome to the club Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C300 Posted August 13, 2010 Report Share Posted August 13, 2010 Hah, too funny ! I got a Red 86' and finnaly desided on the Black 338's ! Also, was debaiting on painting my rear spoiler black. the red is worn down in spots to the primer, looks like tail. Hard to match red. Black, well... 1hr.+ spray bomb=done. I have S-Drive Yokahama 225 40 18" N S-Drive Yokahama 265 35 18". Tires are from Discount tire. They are sweet. Wish I could post pix. Your car looks great, nice shape. enjoy ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotStock88 Posted August 13, 2010 Report Share Posted August 13, 2010 dang you need to lower that thing ! Lookin good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayR_NYC Posted August 18, 2010 Report Share Posted August 18, 2010 I figured I should update this, Finally got some work done on this car. I repainted the rear bumper, swapped the still shinny red mirrors from my parts car onto mine, painted the pink spoiler flat black, and repainted the air dam. I also bought the 18" boss 338's from night of mopar and put those on it. I have a little body work and a full paint to do, and I still have a running issue, but its drivable now at least and looks pretty decent. http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs142.ash2/40456_143610002334461_100000563858621_304372_7927354_n.jpghttp://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs234.snc4/39062_143610882334373_100000563858621_304377_1555693_n.jpghttp://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs220.snc4/39321_143610039001124_100000563858621_304374_816058_n.jpg wow dude ur car looks hot with the rims...god bless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrome_Rush Posted August 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2010 Thanks guys. Yes I know I need to lower it. I plan to do a full mr2 strut swap with cut down struts and coilovers all the way around. I have a set of shp rear struts already to do it. The car has a lot of other problems I need to fix first though. The brakes are wasted and drag. I still can't get it to run right, after 4k rpm it falls on its face. No matter if I'm runing stock boost or crank up the boost. Than it needs some bodywork and paint. Than I can get into mods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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