Chrome_Rush

I recall reading the one 101 sells doesnt fit very well, is that true or did that person just not know what they were doing while mounting it? I need a new one as well, and the one 101 sells is a little cheaper than a new one from mitsubishi, but for the slight price difference if the one 101 sells doesnt fit right, its not worth the savings to me. I would rather drop the 350 on a new original.

Thanks guys. Yes I know I need to lower it. I plan to do a full mr2 strut swap with cut down struts and coilovers all the way around. I have a set of shp rear struts already to do it. The car has a lot of other problems I need to fix first though. The brakes are wasted and drag. I still can't get it to run right, after 4k rpm it falls on its face. No matter if I'm runing stock boost or crank up the boost. Than it needs some bodywork and paint. Than I can get into mods.

Yes it is propane. I will see about getting it. If they don't want to much I may get it.

Well I know its non turbo, so it probably has weaker internals and block. But the head should be the same right? I'm pretty sure the head was replaced on it last year and its only been used twice since than. The head can't have more than 10 miles on it.

Alright here's the deal. I'm trying to determine if an engine I can get my hands on is in fact a 2.6. I'm not sure what applications it was used in besides chyrysler/mitsubishi cars and trucks. So here's the story, we have an old forklift where I work, its about mid 80's. They are scrapping it out, the engine was recently rebuilt though. I was bored the other day and took a look under the hood. To my surprise the valve cover is identical to the one on my conquest. Which is leading me to believe its a 2.6, unless the valve cover was used on other engines? Which is really what I need to know I guess. If it is a 2.6 I can get it for probably 50 bucks since there scrapping the fork lift. Of all places to find a spare engine... lol

I would be willing to do it for him but I have the same problem as you, to many projects and no time.

Well let us know. he said he wants to do it as cheap as possible, and I have alot of projects going right now, so if you guys wanted to pull the parts off the car yourselves in my garage, save me the trouble of doing it and save some money in the process I would be fine with that. or I could pull them and put off a project.

I have all the parts. I'm willing to get ride of everything besides the tranny itself. Not sure all what parts are needed to do the swap but I have a complete car. I would consider selling the tranny but I would have to think about that. I will let the stuff go pretty cheap. I didn't buy this parts car to make money off of just to get mine going and keep some of the hard to get pieces.

I could use a good air dam if you dont want to keep it for yourself.

I know a few people including the seller wanted pics so follow the link to my post in the restoration center. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=103699&st=0&gopid=1066544entry1066544

I figured I should update this, Finally got some work done on this car. I repainted the rear bumper, swapped the still shinny red mirrors from my parts car onto mine, painted the pink spoiler flat black, and repainted the air dam. I also bought the 18" boss 338's from night of mopar and put those on it. I have a little body work and a full paint to do, and I still have a running issue, but its drivable now at least and looks pretty decent. http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs142.ash2/40456_143610002334461_100000563858621_304372_7927354_n.jpg http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs234.snc4/39062_143610882334373_100000563858621_304377_1555693_n.jpg http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs220.snc4/39321_143610039001124_100000563858621_304374_816058_n.jpg

I know this is old, but I dont see pandora having a free time limit. I listen to it a good 5-6 hours a day 5 days a week at work on my motorola devour. The 6 skips per hour isnt that bad, I rarely run out. IT seems to pick stuff I like almost every time. Its easy to get around the 6 skips per hour though, I just have a few sations for each genre I like. When I run out of skips I switch stations. I listen to alot of stuff, if you let it go long enough it will eventually throw in some cross genre stuff, thumbs down it will never play anything like it again. Thumbs up and it will slowly add in stuff from the cross genre. I have one station that plays everything from the beetles to rascal flatts to nirvana, to led zeppelin. It literally plays everything i like and nothing I dont.

That price for a starquest in that condition and your going to nit pick a repainted mirror? lol Seems like a good deal to me, GLWS.

yep if I just touch the headlight button lightly they open and close fine. guess im cleaning contacts, thanks for the help.

ALright out of the blue im having a problem with my headlight doors. Last week I got home and shut off hte lights, the doors didnt close, neither of them. I turned them off and on a couple times and they finally closed. the next day I got in the car, hit the lights and they popped right up. When I got home I shut them off and nothing, they wouldnt move. I tried for 10 minutes clicking off and on, not a budge out of them. I checked the fuse link, its good, the relays seem good. I was messing with it today and occasionally the one on the right side will move a hair, and the one on the right side about every 20 cycles through on and off will do a full wink. So they are working intermittently. ITs hysterical when the right side winks. It will close all the way than immediately pop back up. The neighbor looked up and said "did your car just wink" lol. yes, it did. I doubt both relays would go haywire at the same time, and the link has full battery voltage on either side. IF it were a blown fuse it wouldnt work at all, so any ideas?

Now its my baller status LMAO They look much better in person than in the pics, and they look insane on my quest. Absolutely no rubbing issues and no spacers needed. The rear lip is actually 4" not 3". Thanks alot for the great deal on these knight of mopar. Couldnt be happier with them, and it was only a 50 mile drive drive one way to get them, so it only cost me another 3/8 of a tank of gas.

I second that pm lol

As far as i know its a stock turbo. So if it should be ok boosting to 12psi on a stock pump I apparently have another problem, any ideas? It really feels like a fuel problem and I know the secondary is working properly, otherwise I wouldnt be able to go up past 2k rpm or so with good pulling power. Im going to try and change the inline fuel filter just before the fuel pump. How would i be able to check if the turbo is stock? I know its got markings on it but I dont have a clue what any of them mean, and it does feel awfully quick compared to the stock power rating.

As far as i know its a stock turbo. So if it should be ok boosting to 12psi on a stock pump I apparently have another problem, any ideas? It really feels like a fuel problem and I know the secondary is working properly, otherwise I wouldnt be able to go up past 2k rpm or so with good pulling power. Im going to try and change the inline fuel filter just before the fuel pump.

Alright I FINALLY found the major issue with my car and it is now on the road and drivable. First, is it normal for it to idle a little rough and make a bit of a taping sound on idle? IT sounds great above idle, im guessing maybe the mechanical lifters are just noisy on these? Anyways the main question here is I put on a boost controller and cranked it up to 12 psi. Do I need a larger than stock fuel pump to boost that high? It pulls really nice up until 3500-4000 rpm, once it gets a little past I would say 10psi and that rpm range it starts to cut power, really feels like its not getting enough fuel.

ITs common confusion, Most people assume wheels are measured from outside lip to outside lip. In reality the wheel is measured from the inside of the lip where the tire seats inside the wheel. Thats why a 7" wide wheel measures out to close to 8". THats also why our 16" wheels actually measure out to around 17" top to bottom. EAsiest way to figure out what you have if your not sure and cant find markings on the wheel is to measure the outsides lip to lip, and subtract an inch from diameter and width. All wheels are like this, the 18x7.5's on my daily driver actually measure 19x8.5.

How loud is that BOV? Really whats brand batter, if it does its job.

Anybody? Nobody knows a way to test the fuel pressure. The book says I need some special adapter to use the gauge and I cant find out about it.

I had the same problem with mine, when I went under I found that the previous owner had used big electrical ties to lock down the column so it didnt flop around, only problem is he put it all the way down and I cant see the top of the gauges the wheel is in the way. SO I just put a few blocks between there and used more big ties to lock it down again so it would flop around. THe tilt doesnt work, but no one but me will drive it, so its in a good spot for me. As long as the wheel is in a good spot for you who cares right.

Alright, the timing seems to be on spec, its actually like 2 degrees off, but that wouldnt cause this much of a problem. I think it might be a fuel delivery issue after all, BUt I cant find the correct adapter to put on a fuel pressure fgauge and check for proper fuel pressure. ANybody know how to check fuel pressure on this thing?