OBSESSIVE_ENT. Posted April 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2011 (edited) with the help of my homie Gil I started to tear down the white 89 all thats left realy is to take out that stuborn 6 bolt rear. turns out the 88 has a 6 bolt also. I got some flat and "L" shappped aluminium and got the radiator hung with out a single weld lol. i had to bang in the ears of the bumper brackets a bit but it turned out well. the evaporator for the AC is next then figureing out an intercooler. Serp, using the stock intercooler with cryo2 should compensate for the size of the intercooler right??? well we will see. http://i823.photobucket.com/albums/zz159/obsessive88/shinobi001.jpg http://i823.photobucket.com/albums/zz159/obsessive88/shinobi002.jpg http://i823.photobucket.com/albums/zz159/obsessive88/shinobi003.jpg Edited April 11, 2011 by OBSESSIVE_ENT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOHO Posted April 11, 2011 Report Share Posted April 11, 2011 I'm guessing you left the space so you could fit both of your 12" fans. Did you already try and fit your intercooler in there as well with the A/C? I've never had a stock one so not sure how much room you will need. I think at near stock boost the stock conquest IC would be just as efficient as the stock supra...not as thick but more surface area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBSESSIVE_ENT. Posted April 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2011 Bo, I test fitted the fans on the engine side and they are going to be pullers about 90% of the rad is covered by the fans only the lower front end suport blocks the rad. my worry is the AC fan going to work well with the IC? I think I can hang the AC higher than stock and that will clear the IC especially if i cut the top pipe and rout it st8 back. I dont know whats the stock boost on the supra but i wasnt trying to run more than 18 lbs, so if your right might have to figure out a way to get more surface area hell in my mad sicentist head how bout pusher fans infront of the IC lol. But I have to get a move on b/c as sweet as the 2j looks that 90 warranty is quickly approching its end lol. It dosent help im watching all the Initial D episodes on netflicks lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBSESSIVE_ENT. Posted April 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2011 Ok so I found a spot for the canister that is in front of the AC evaporator bent the pipe as easy as i could and now i just have to extend the four wires to the plugs in the stock location and get another pipe to snake around to the evaporator (pics comming as soon as photobucket gets it together). The AC fan is 11" and cuts severly into intercooler space sooooooo im on the hunt for a smaller fan. Everything is bolted hand tight and looks good. Now on to the next hurdle Serp or anybody,question where are the cooling fan sensors on the 2j? and the rad sensors?? I dont think looking through anybodies post i saw that info. Also as AZ so apptly put it the vacum pumpis needed if you want HAVAC and the hose goes to the canister on the passenger side under where the air filter can would be. Im assuming i patch that line in to somewhere on 2j but where? Im cooling my jets till i get the money for the weldon 1100 pump and some fab money for the "L" brackets for the tranny thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOHO Posted April 13, 2011 Report Share Posted April 13, 2011 I ran a stand alone fan control but I'm not sure what the other guys did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vettekiller593 Posted April 13, 2011 Report Share Posted April 13, 2011 (edited) I ran a fan controller also. This one. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Thermostatic-Fan-Control---Adjustable-Imperial_15230000-P_N6003C_P%7CGRP2061A_____ Edited April 13, 2011 by vettekiller593 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
serpentkilla Posted April 13, 2011 Report Share Posted April 13, 2011 That motor used a hydro fan setup, so there is no fuses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOHO Posted April 13, 2011 Report Share Posted April 13, 2011 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-16739/ This is what I used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBSESSIVE_ENT. Posted April 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2011 ill check out the summit part. thanks Serp was that a question to the vac hose or to the rad. forgive the ignorance in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
serpentkilla Posted April 13, 2011 Report Share Posted April 13, 2011 It was to the cooling fan relays question/fan control Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBSESSIVE_ENT. Posted April 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 ok thanks and what about that vacume pump for the havac?also the speedo cable looks like it may be tricky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBSESSIVE_ENT. Posted April 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 well the g54 is out and its grimmy in there lol I know i need the alt wire and the starter wire and im getting new ground wire. but what else in that harness is needed??? I am almost afraid to cut it. Also the canister that the vacume pump leads to has a hose leading under the AC into the firewall I guess thats the vacume line for the HAVAC. the other canister by the wiper motor I forgot what it was but there are also pipes leading into the body close those off or just remove the whole canister? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOHO Posted April 22, 2011 Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 That other canister by the wiper motor..The ABS...yes ditch the whole thing...but you will need to run an abs delete line in place of it. I have jlyrgr's on my car it fits and looks nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBSESSIVE_ENT. Posted April 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 oh snap BO thats right I looked at a page once on Professor Quests post basiclly he ran a closed loop cutting out the brake lead to the canister thanks for reminding me. I did a double last night so im too tired to go under the car lol but i have to get a scrapper and some engine clean before anything else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBSESSIVE_ENT. Posted April 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 well I used gunk gel on the passenger side of the bay and it worked well. I started to unbolt the auto trans from the engine. but i see a lot of lines on the 2j and not seeing the coolant return line so i have to figure that out. Serpent I cant find my 2jz cd manual lol. so here comes the anoying questions. the water pump has a smaller hose out front where dose that lead?the return for the coolant where is that outlet?the pressurized hose on the power steering im assuming leads to.....I figured out the AC lines so no worries there pictures to follow the maddening questions lol thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzStar Posted April 25, 2011 Report Share Posted April 25, 2011 (edited) The lines from the transmission that run along the passenger side of the engine are the trans cooler lines. Just unbolt the bracket from the side of the engine and remove them with the transmission. The smaller hose from the waterpump is probably the hydro drive for the fan. You don't use that in our application. Pressure side of the power steering pump should run to the steering box. Low pressure out of the steering box should run through a cooler and from the cooler to the reservoir. There should be a low pressure line from the reservoir to the power steering pump. http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd268/Soup756/Conquest%202JZ%20Photos/My%202JZ/CleaningtheJZ004.jpg Two radiator hoses are easily visible... top coming across the motor... bottom coming down the passenger side. The smaller hose you speak of looks like an A/C or a Power Steering hose about mid engine sweeping across. Edited April 25, 2011 by AzStar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBSESSIVE_ENT. Posted April 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2011 thanks so much AZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBSESSIVE_ENT. Posted April 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 ok so i kinda figured it out, i think, correct me if im wrong: the coolant hose comming from up out of the head from the middle rear of the engine is the heater hose going in and the other hose in the rear same level closer to the rear turbo is the heater hose going out. the fuel "in" line is the pressurised one comming into the rear of the rail and the "out is the one with the clamp comming out under the intake. on the water pump there is a pressureised hose that i guess runs the hydro setup for the cooler, I can close that off and the other clammped hose next to is i suppose is the return which i can also close off. on the power steering pump, the pressurized one leads to the box and the clampped one is the return. at the bottom front passenger side under the alt is a in and out line that on my 2j was loopped i am guessin that is the oil cooler line which is perfect because the lower front passenger fog hole is where im putting the oil cooler. Im sensing that toyota used only one pressure side and one clamped side for ins and outs. Did i forget any line? I think the fuel line return i can use a clmap to clamp onto the stock line and I would have to fit a new hose to the 2j feed line that is long enough for the 8-an fitting. thanks in advance for the indulgence and thanks Nastiboy for the pics you posted from that i got that the water pump pipe i could close off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzStar Posted April 27, 2011 Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 . at the bottom front passenger side under the alt is a in and out line that on my 2j was loopped i am guessin that is the oil cooler line which is perfect because the lower front passenger fog hole is where im putting the oil cooler. Im sensing that toyota used only one pressure side and one clamped side for ins and outs. Did i forget any line? I think this line you are talking about is the coolant lines for the tranmssion. On my 2JZ the oil is water cooled through a "cooler" at the oil filter. The lines are integral to the engine cooling system. (if I recall without the motor in front of me) FWIW, since I am going with the Auto I am using the passenger side lower opening for the trans and the driver's side lower opening for the powersteering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBSESSIVE_ENT. Posted April 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 thanks AZ ill check it again when i get home Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBSESSIVE_ENT. Posted May 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 morning morning. I have to spend some more quality time with the lil one so its been hecktic http://i823.photobucket.com/albums/zz159/obsessive88/shinobi004-1.jpgthese are the lines i was talkng about the high pressure one leads to the steering box and the low pressure clampped one comes from the resivoir and cooler lines. Check http://i823.photobucket.com/albums/zz159/obsessive88/shinobi007.jpgthe hose snaking infront of the picture is the hydro line for the fan system and the other short cut off hose in the center of the pic is the return both can be closed off correct? http://i823.photobucket.com/albums/zz159/obsessive88/shinobi006.jpghttp://i823.photobucket.com/albums/zz159/obsessive88/shinobi005.jpghere is where i put the canister for the AC I bent the line to go back towards the cabin. and I need another to join to the condensor. the charcol canister still needs the vacume line to the gast tank im assuming. http://i823.photobucket.com/albums/zz159/obsessive88/shinobi004.jpgthis is the front support needs a lil more trimming but it came out so so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBSESSIVE_ENT. Posted May 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2011 so auto tranny is off (and i forgot how to take off the torqe converter lol. now the 154 is smaller in every way. ebay has a conversion bell for 340 but eff dat lol. my crazy idea was to cut the clutch fork hole in the bigger bell and slice a spacer of the 154 gear box side and mate the two any opinions?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBSESSIVE_ENT. Posted May 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2011 ok check it out the passenger side mount is giving trouble to come out. but.... anybody knows which wire to splice from our originial alt to the 2j? the 2j comes with 3 and we have only twohttp://i823.photobucket.com/albums/zz159/obsessive88/shinobi001-1.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBSESSIVE_ENT. Posted May 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 ok i figured out the reason i couldnt get the bolts of the torque converter off. on the G54 the lower plate allows you acces to the bolts but on the 2j there is a window with a gromet lol. so after getting it off the bolt pattern for the 2jz crank is totally different from the 154 you can imagine my surprise. is there an adapter plate or or do you have to make one up ill look in past entries.... also if this works ill have an auto tranny for sale 80 bucks if not ill have a 154 for sale 700 bucks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOHO Posted May 10, 2011 Report Share Posted May 10, 2011 There is no adatper plate you have to get the 2jz bellhousing for the r154 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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