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Welp, the Starion is a CA historical Vehicle now


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#1 leesfer

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 05:57 PM

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Edited by leesfer, 11 April 2012 - 03:25 PM.

1986 Mitsubishi Starion: Holset HX35, BEP .63A/R hot side, Turbonetics T3 manifold, Magna MPI with 65mm TB, roller rockers and Screaming Banshee cam, MegaSquirt ECU, Turbosmart 38MM wastegate, TurboXS RFL blow off valve, 2.5" hard pipes, 4" *DM intercooler, SR20 aluminum radiator and fan shroud, MSD 6al and tach adapter, MSD Blaster 2 coil, NGK plugs and wires

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#2 joey_crandall

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 05:59 PM

whats the benefits of having these plates?
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#3 rcm

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 06:03 PM

In texas they are called antique plates.They are good for 5 years and no state inspection.My 88 will qualify next year.
supposed to be a non daily driver .

#4 The Rabbit1

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 06:33 PM

In VA you pay $50 once and never pay for inspection or registration again. Evar.

Except you can't drive it like a normal car. only for a pleasure cruise, no farther than 250miles from your house, and to car shows, mechanics, and to diagnose/inspect proper operation.

If you are caught driving it all the time, IE: a cop sees you every day driving 15miles away a number of days straight.. you will lose your tags and you will not be allowed to register that car for 5years.
Replaced: vac advance, Delphi injectors, all vac lines, tees and check valves, all brake hoses and pads, Master cylinder, flex plate, torque convertor, T-stat(180), CTS, TPS, both fan switches to primary, rear speakers, door speakers
Overhauled: Distributor, TB, wiper system, electrical ground connections, dash switches, auto seat belt tracks, entire auto trans, entire fuel system, A/C system
Upgraded: 1st gen Mas, HKS bov, Walbro 255lph pump, S16G Turbo and increased boost to 15psi, Aeromotive rrfpr 13105, MSD 8910 Tach adapter, Comp Cams Fireball digital ignition system, 35 watt HID headlights (6000k) 1000w 4ch amp, 100A alternator, engine to chassis to battery ground (4ga), charging wire from Alt to Batt (6ga), 2.5" Catalytic converter, Magnaflow muffler, R134 A/C, Yellow top optima battery
Added: AEM wideband, rail mounted fuel pressure gauge, dual alternator fusible links
Eliminated: Cruise, ABS, Emissions, Vac pump

#5 The Rabbit1

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 06:34 PM

or you can get the cool yellow antique tags and be allowed to drive it everyday like normal, but you have to register and inspect it like a normal car.
Replaced: vac advance, Delphi injectors, all vac lines, tees and check valves, all brake hoses and pads, Master cylinder, flex plate, torque convertor, T-stat(180), CTS, TPS, both fan switches to primary, rear speakers, door speakers
Overhauled: Distributor, TB, wiper system, electrical ground connections, dash switches, auto seat belt tracks, entire auto trans, entire fuel system, A/C system
Upgraded: 1st gen Mas, HKS bov, Walbro 255lph pump, S16G Turbo and increased boost to 15psi, Aeromotive rrfpr 13105, MSD 8910 Tach adapter, Comp Cams Fireball digital ignition system, 35 watt HID headlights (6000k) 1000w 4ch amp, 100A alternator, engine to chassis to battery ground (4ga), charging wire from Alt to Batt (6ga), 2.5" Catalytic converter, Magnaflow muffler, R134 A/C, Yellow top optima battery
Added: AEM wideband, rail mounted fuel pressure gauge, dual alternator fusible links
Eliminated: Cruise, ABS, Emissions, Vac pump

#6 leesfer

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 06:50 PM

Yeah but the most important part (for me being in California) is that it makes you smog exempt

My car isn't even close to being a daily driver so these plates work great for me, I can do whatever I want to the motor and keep it street legal for taking out every once and a while
1986 Mitsubishi Starion: Holset HX35, BEP .63A/R hot side, Turbonetics T3 manifold, Magna MPI with 65mm TB, roller rockers and Screaming Banshee cam, MegaSquirt ECU, Turbosmart 38MM wastegate, TurboXS RFL blow off valve, 2.5" hard pipes, 4" *DM intercooler, SR20 aluminum radiator and fan shroud, MSD 6al and tach adapter, MSD Blaster 2 coil, NGK plugs and wires

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#7 ucw458

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 06:53 PM

1st page of the application section E first paragraph.

http://apps.dmv.ca.g.../reg/reg17a.pdf

Quote

I also certify that the vehicle for which these plates are issued may be driven in historical exhibitions, parades, or historic club activities only.


Searching through the vehicle code gives me a headache.  But you can bet there are some serious penalties for abusing that plate.  Especially since one site claims that plate exempts you from smog tests.
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#8 leesfer

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 07:00 PM

View Postucw458, on 06 April 2012 - 06:53 PM, said:

1st page of the application section E first paragraph.

http://apps.dmv.ca.g.../reg/reg17a.pdf




Searching through the vehicle code gives me a headache.  But you can bet there are some serious penalties for abusing that plate.  Especially since one site claims that plate exempts you from smog tests.

You are also allowed a number of miles per year to drive your car which is well under the number that I drive my Starion

I have a DD, and a secondary DD, then I have my Starion which goes out MAYBE a couple times a month

Edited by leesfer, 06 April 2012 - 07:02 PM.

1986 Mitsubishi Starion: Holset HX35, BEP .63A/R hot side, Turbonetics T3 manifold, Magna MPI with 65mm TB, roller rockers and Screaming Banshee cam, MegaSquirt ECU, Turbosmart 38MM wastegate, TurboXS RFL blow off valve, 2.5" hard pipes, 4" *DM intercooler, SR20 aluminum radiator and fan shroud, MSD 6al and tach adapter, MSD Blaster 2 coil, NGK plugs and wires

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#9 verde2002

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 12:11 AM

What are the fees associated with it? Do you still have to pay for registration every year? How many miles a year are you allowed to drive on the streets? My reg. is about to expire and not sure if I will pass smog, definitly want to go this route. Not sure if you will know but can I take this form to the AAA office that has DMV services? Lastly, is there a list where it shows what cars qualify as Historical Vehicles?

#10 leesfer

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 12:36 AM

View Postverde2002, on 07 April 2012 - 12:11 AM, said:

What are the fees associated with it? Do you still have to pay for registration every year? How many miles a year are you allowed to drive on the streets? My reg. is about to expire and not sure if I will pass smog, definitly want to go this route. Not sure if you will know but can I take this form to the AAA office that has DMV services? Lastly, is there a list where it shows what cars qualify as Historical Vehicles?

You still have to pay registration fees but they are less than normal registration

I believe it is either 1,500 or 2,500 miles per year

No you cannot do this at AAA, I tried... you have to go in to the DMV and then have your papers mailed to the headquarters

No, there's no list, it's up to their discretion really
1986 Mitsubishi Starion: Holset HX35, BEP .63A/R hot side, Turbonetics T3 manifold, Magna MPI with 65mm TB, roller rockers and Screaming Banshee cam, MegaSquirt ECU, Turbosmart 38MM wastegate, TurboXS RFL blow off valve, 2.5" hard pipes, 4" *DM intercooler, SR20 aluminum radiator and fan shroud, MSD 6al and tach adapter, MSD Blaster 2 coil, NGK plugs and wires

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#11 Burton

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 09:56 AM

Sounds pretty compareable to TX. I plan to get antique plates too, but since I haven't put more than 500 miles on it in over 2 years, I'm not worried about the limited mileage, and if I DO drive it, it's only to shows or to work on it, so I would deffinately be within their laws. I'll probably be switching to collector car insurance then too.
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#12 The Rabbit1

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 12:24 PM

View Postleesfer, on 07 April 2012 - 12:36 AM, said:

No, there's no list, it's up to their discretion really
in most states  it's any car older than 25

View PostBurton, on 07 April 2012 - 09:56 AM, said:

I'll probably be switching to collector car insurance then too.
That's why I did it on my camaro, muuuch cheaper. Quest isn't old enough yet.
Replaced: vac advance, Delphi injectors, all vac lines, tees and check valves, all brake hoses and pads, Master cylinder, flex plate, torque convertor, T-stat(180), CTS, TPS, both fan switches to primary, rear speakers, door speakers
Overhauled: Distributor, TB, wiper system, electrical ground connections, dash switches, auto seat belt tracks, entire auto trans, entire fuel system, A/C system
Upgraded: 1st gen Mas, HKS bov, Walbro 255lph pump, S16G Turbo and increased boost to 15psi, Aeromotive rrfpr 13105, MSD 8910 Tach adapter, Comp Cams Fireball digital ignition system, 35 watt HID headlights (6000k) 1000w 4ch amp, 100A alternator, engine to chassis to battery ground (4ga), charging wire from Alt to Batt (6ga), 2.5" Catalytic converter, Magnaflow muffler, R134 A/C, Yellow top optima battery
Added: AEM wideband, rail mounted fuel pressure gauge, dual alternator fusible links
Eliminated: Cruise, ABS, Emissions, Vac pump

#13 verde2002

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Posted 08 April 2012 - 12:31 AM

View PostThe Rabbit1, on 07 April 2012 - 12:24 PM, said:

in most states  it's any car older than 25

That's why I did it on my camaro, muuuch cheaper. Quest isn't old enough yet.

Hagerty will insure the Quest.

#14 louswheel01

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Posted 08 April 2012 - 02:06 AM

Roll up to local rotary club car meet with those and watch them fellows confused look on their face.  

Why get those plates? Registration on a StarQuest is dirt cheap, no more than $80 a year, I think I paid $69 for this years. Drive it anywhere.

Insurance is also dirt cheap on them. Except if you git a teenage driver in your policy, than you get bent.

#15 leesfer

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Posted 08 April 2012 - 12:43 PM

View Postlouswheel01, on 08 April 2012 - 02:06 AM, said:

Roll up to local rotary club car meet with those and watch them fellows confused look on their face.  

Why get those plates? Registration on a StarQuest is dirt cheap, no more than $80 a year, I think I paid $69 for this years. Drive it anywhere.

Insurance is also dirt cheap on them. Except if you git a teenage driver in your policy, than you get bent.

Because I don't want to deal with smog on a car I drive once a month
1986 Mitsubishi Starion: Holset HX35, BEP .63A/R hot side, Turbonetics T3 manifold, Magna MPI with 65mm TB, roller rockers and Screaming Banshee cam, MegaSquirt ECU, Turbosmart 38MM wastegate, TurboXS RFL blow off valve, 2.5" hard pipes, 4" *DM intercooler, SR20 aluminum radiator and fan shroud, MSD 6al and tach adapter, MSD Blaster 2 coil, NGK plugs and wires

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#16 louswheel01

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Posted 08 April 2012 - 03:09 PM

View Postleesfer, on 08 April 2012 - 12:43 PM, said:



Because I don't want to deal with smog on a car I drive once a month

I hear that from people, but the StarQuest has been the least smog problematic car I've had.

Our 2005 Kia gave me a harder time at the smog station than the StarQuest. Even when I had it modified with k&n air filter, modified air box, 2.5 inch down pipe, one aftermarket cat and huge fart can, it still passed smog legit. Cost me $50 to smog it every two years.

The newer cars is where you get screwed, any little thing not in perfect working order and you fail.

#17 leesfer

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Posted 08 April 2012 - 08:12 PM

View Postlouswheel01, on 08 April 2012 - 03:09 PM, said:

I hear that from people, but the StarQuest has been the least smog problematic car I've had.

Our 2005 Kia gave me a harder time at the smog station than the StarQuest. Even when I had it modified with k&n air filter, modified air box, 2.5 inch down pipe, one aftermarket cat and huge fart can, it still passed smog legit. Cost me $50 to smog it every two years.

The newer cars is where you get screwed, any little thing not in perfect working order and you fail.

I'd probably go the normal route if my car had any of the smog stuff still on it when I got it but it was in pieces and I am doing a build that would most likely be rejected by any smog place on sight

I have no doubt I can tune it to pass smog but it's the anal visual test that I would rather avoid

Edited by leesfer, 08 April 2012 - 08:13 PM.

1986 Mitsubishi Starion: Holset HX35, BEP .63A/R hot side, Turbonetics T3 manifold, Magna MPI with 65mm TB, roller rockers and Screaming Banshee cam, MegaSquirt ECU, Turbosmart 38MM wastegate, TurboXS RFL blow off valve, 2.5" hard pipes, 4" *DM intercooler, SR20 aluminum radiator and fan shroud, MSD 6al and tach adapter, MSD Blaster 2 coil, NGK plugs and wires

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#18 dstar88

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Posted 09 April 2012 - 03:43 PM

yup, mine definitely wont pass visually now..lol

i may go this rout. did you do it when registration was up? just walked into the dmv and asked for it? my car will be sitting quite a bit now since im all over the country. makes sence for me to go this route, then i wont have to worry about a crap ton of stuff, and make the car completely how i want it.

View PostLaodicea, on 25 May 2010 - 12:16 PM, said:

  I have a B.S. in Psych and I am a Sociopath as well..I choose to admit it.

88 quest:
2.25" d/p w/ 3" cat back & 3" aero muff. (needs to be redone)
marnal head from dad ready for .5 lift w/1.6 rollers & Timc's Ausie roller cam., adj. cam gear
felpro 8770 smashed down w/arp's
Accel 8mm wires w/MSD SS coil.
o-ringed block(copper o-ring), 8:1 wiseco's .30 over, race prep'd rods, polished crank to standard bore w/more arp's
Bosch fuel pump w/ Aeromotive rrfpr @ 38-40  & new replacement FIC injectors
3" GM Maf w/ maf-t (blow through set up)
Inovate lc-1 wideband
XTD - stage 3 clutch
port matched intake, ported exhaust housing
aftermarket front mount I/C with custom I/C pipping.
ported 17c @/13 psi...for now..
...how much hp is that???
(apparently the same as my old engine @ 17lbs with the 17c,...... 249lbs of tq. 182 h/p all at the wheels)


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#19 DJpowerHaus

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Posted 09 April 2012 - 04:06 PM

Here are the Maryland rules for Historic and Street Rod.  With my "new" '87 I am pretty excited about getting street rod tags.  My bicycle is my daily driver.  Miata is 2nd, Zipcar is 3rd.  I think I qualify for street rod considering half the parts are from other makes and models.  Doesn't seem to have a mileage limit, just how it is being used.  Would be pretty easy to just name a shop / meet / track in that general direction no matter which way I'm headed.


Historic:
  • To qualify as a historic vehicle, your vehicle must not have been substantially altered, remodeled, or remanufactured from its original construction, and must be 20 model years or older.
  • A historic vehicle 60 years or older may obtain a one-time, permanent, non-transferable registration.  This vehicle registration does not qualify for specialty plates.
  • Vehicles classified as historic certifies the vehicle will be maintained for use in exhibitions, club activities, parades, tours, occasional transportation and similar uses.  The vehicle owner further certifies the vehicle will not be used for general daily transportation or primarily for the transportation of passengers or property on highways.  You will need to fill out the Application for Historic or Street Rod Registration (form # VR-096).
Street Rod:
  • To qualify as a street rod, your vehicle must be 25 years old or older and must have been substantially altered from the manufacturer's original design.
  • Vehicles classified as street rod certifies the vehicle will be maintained for use in exhibitions, club activities, parades, tours, occasional transportation and similar uses. The vehicle owner further certifies the vehicle will not be used for general daily transportation or primarily for the transportation of passengers or property on highways. You will need to fill out the Application for Historic or Street Rod Registration (form # VR-096).

Edited by DJpowerHaus, 09 April 2012 - 04:13 PM.


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#20 leesfer

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Posted 10 April 2012 - 12:14 AM

View PostDJpowerHaus, on 09 April 2012 - 04:06 PM, said:

Here are the Maryland rules for Historic and Street Rod.  With my "new" '87 I am pretty excited about getting street rod tags.  My bicycle is my daily driver.  Miata is 2nd, Zipcar is 3rd.  I think I qualify for street rod considering half the parts are from other makes and models.  Doesn't seem to have a mileage limit, just how it is being used.  Would be pretty easy to just name a shop / meet / track in that general direction no matter which way I'm headed.


Historic:
  • To qualify as a historic vehicle, your vehicle must not have been substantially altered, remodeled, or remanufactured from its original construction, and must be 20 model years or older.
  • A historic vehicle 60 years or older may obtain a one-time, permanent, non-transferable registration.  This vehicle registration does not qualify for specialty plates.
  • Vehicles classified as historic certifies the vehicle will be maintained for use in exhibitions, club activities, parades, tours, occasional transportation and similar uses.  The vehicle owner further certifies the vehicle will not be used for general daily transportation or primarily for the transportation of passengers or property on highways.  You will need to fill out the Application for Historic or Street Rod Registration (form # VR-096).
Street Rod:
  • To qualify as a street rod, your vehicle must be 25 years old or older and must have been substantially altered from the manufacturer's original design.
  • Vehicles classified as street rod certifies the vehicle will be maintained for use in exhibitions, club activities, parades, tours, occasional transportation and similar uses. The vehicle owner further certifies the vehicle will not be used for general daily transportation or primarily for the transportation of passengers or property on highways. You will need to fill out the Application for Historic or Street Rod Registration (form # VR-096).

The Street Rod sounds more what the Historical Vehicle is in California, but without having to be substantially altered
1986 Mitsubishi Starion: Holset HX35, BEP .63A/R hot side, Turbonetics T3 manifold, Magna MPI with 65mm TB, roller rockers and Screaming Banshee cam, MegaSquirt ECU, Turbosmart 38MM wastegate, TurboXS RFL blow off valve, 2.5" hard pipes, 4" *DM intercooler, SR20 aluminum radiator and fan shroud, MSD 6al and tach adapter, MSD Blaster 2 coil, NGK plugs and wires

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