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New fuel pump time!


Alsandr
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The time has come for me to replace my fuel pump.

 

I'm wanting to buy a Walbro 255 LPH (this one, probably). Anyone have any suggestions on the pump?

 

Also, I don't really know how to replace mine... Tim C told me over the phone (when I was sitting on the side of the road because my original pump decided to commit suicide) that I could cut away the metal above the pump and just pull it out. Is there anything I need to do before, if that's the way I'm going to do it? Should I instead drop the entire tank and do it that way? I could clean the tank while I'm at it, but I have no way to do it quickly and need my car back on the road ASAP... Are there any methods to cleaning the tank that don't take long? I saw a suggestion once to drop some paint thinner and screws or a chain in the tank and drive it around in the bed of a truck for a while, anything else? Also, what problems can (will) arise with the filters while I'm doing this?

 

Sorry if these seem inane; I just want to be as prepared as possible diving into this. So far, all the fixes I've done have been pretty simple and more about preventing problems than solving them. This one has me the most worried. :wacko:

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There may be people who have hacked up the hatch to get 'easy' access to the fuel pump, but its really 'not that hard' to drop the tank itself. While teh tanks down its a great time to replace worn out rubber bits as well as have full access to really see into the tank. I just did my own pump back in april; had the tank down, pump replaced, tank cleaned up externally (internally was fine), replaced the filters and had it all back together and running the same day.
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Drop the tank. Don't be lazy and cut a hole.

You should clean up the tank and replace the in tank filter while you are there for sure. The idea with throw nuts/bolts in the tank is only to clean up a tank that has a lot of vanish, or rust built up in it. If your tank looks good when you drop it there is no reason to do anything. Some minor stuff in there can be flushed out. If it's rusty then you need to do something more. I used a kit from KBS Coatings. Worked like a charm.

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get this pump

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?A=BSAN69400_0199719497&An=599001+101989+50016+2016001

 

and a filter similar to this with 3/8 barbs on either side

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=PSX23002_0265416054

 

remove the cone filter from the hose prior to the pump and replace with the new filter spliced into the S-shaped hose going into the fuel pump. it will all become obvious when your looking at it.

 

dont cut the hole in the floor bigger... drop the tank, check everything and be comprehensive. check the pick up tube and change filter, change the inlet hose to use a 3/8 barbed fuel filter, check the vac lines on the tank and going to the hardlines, you might have trouble with the filler neck tube but fear not napa carries that stuff. do it once and do it right. :)

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Drop the tank. Don't be lazy and cut a hole.

You should clean up the tank and replace the in tank filter while you are there for sure. The idea with throw nuts/bolts in the tank is only to clean up a tank that has a lot of vanish, or rust built up in it. If your tank looks good when you drop it there is no reason to do anything. Some minor stuff in there can be flushed out. If it's rusty then you need to do something more. I used a kit from KBS Coatings. Worked like a charm.

I wasn't trying to be lazy. :P

 

I thought the in tank filters were no longer available? Where can I pick up a filter? I've seen some on DAD's site, but last I saw they were out of stock...

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get this pump

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?A=BSAN69400_0199719497&An=599001+101989+50016+2016001

 

and a filter similar to this with 3/8 barbs on either side

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=PSX23002_0265416054

 

remove the cone filter from the hose prior to the pump and replace with the new filter spliced into the S-shaped hose going into the fuel pump. it will all become obvious when your looking at it.

 

dont cut the hole in the floor bigger... drop the tank, check everything and be comprehensive. check the pick up tube and change filter, change the inlet hose to use a 3/8 barbed fuel filter, check the vac lines on the tank and going to the hardlines, you might have trouble with the filler neck tube but fear not napa carries that stuff. do it once and do it right. :)

 

How does a Bosch compare to a Walbro? I've seen people love and hate both.

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i dont wanna get into the whole bosch vs walbro conversation again. but those of us using the bosch pumps have NO PROBLEMS.

 

i know myself and others running the bosch are pushing 20psi plus boost and they have no problem with getting it enough fuel.

 

the bosch is a direct bolt in, the walbro requires a installation kit i think.

 

here are the two pumps for compairison, bosch pump on the left, walbro on the right.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b343/vcyberbob/Misc%20Quest%20Pics/CAT-85.jpg

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i dont wanna get into the whole bosch vs walbro conversation again. but those of us using the bosch pumps have NO PROBLEMS.

 

i know myself and others running the bosch are pushing 20psi plus boost and they have no problem with getting it enough fuel.

 

the bosch is a direct bolt in, the walbro requires a installation kit i think.

 

here are the two pumps for compairison, bosch pump on the left, walbro on the right.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b343/vcyberbob/Misc%20Quest%20Pics/CAT-85.jpg

 

Is that Bosch part number 69400? Looking for a new one as well.

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I got myself a walbro off ebay 120 shipped comes with 2 barbs. I got 15 feet of 3/8 twist lock hose (35 bucks I think I only needed 9 or 10 of it though) I got 1 honda banjo fitting(15 bucks) so it connects to the stock fuel filter and 1 -6an twist lock fitting (5 bucks) to connect to the banjo fitting all off summitracing. I ran a whole new line under the car its usually easier cause about 75% of quests had a rusted out fitting that connects to the stock pump or the line is just about rusted out. Im running 15psi on my 18g no problem. I have seen comparisons with the bosch pump, but I personally dont care for them. Me n my friends always repped walbro pumps with 0 problems internal or external. Walbro can put out a max of 90 psi which with a stock fpr it will be regulated to 38 psi or so Whatever stock is...

 

Dropping the tank is real easy. I used an impact gun at lower psi. Put the back of the car on jack stands. Support the tank with a jack n piece of wood. took out the 2 nuts holding the filler neck in place. undo the the tank bolts lower it a little undo the fuel lines up top and then lower it and its out.

 

I just looked at the ebay link thats the same exact place I got mine from.

Edited by h3r3tic
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Is that Bosch part number 69400? Looking for a new one as well.

I ended up grabbing that Bosch (69400). It does look the same and it cost me $120 shipped (from Amazon, we'll see how this works out...) and I should have it tomorrow.

 

I got myself a walbro off ebay 120 shipped comes with 2 barbs. I got 15 feet of 3/8 twist lock hose (35 bucks I think I only needed 9 or 10 of it though) I got 1 honda banjo fitting(15 bucks) so it connects to the stock fuel filter and 1 -6an twist lock fitting (5 bucks) to connect to the banjo fitting all off summitracing. I ran a whole new line under the car its usually easier cause about 75% of quests had a rusted out fitting that connects to the stock pump or the line is just about rusted out. Im running 15psi on my 18g no problem. I have seen comparisons with the bosch pump, but I personally dont care for them. Me n my friends always repped walbro pumps with 0 problems internal or external. Walbro can put out a max of 90 psi which with a stock fpr it will be regulated to 38 psi or so Whatever stock is...

 

Dropping the tank is real easy. I used an impact gun at lower psi. Put the back of the car on jack stands. Support the tank with a jack n piece of wood. took out the 2 nuts holding the filler neck in place. undo the the tank bolts lower it a little undo the fuel lines up top and then lower it and its out.

 

I just looked at the ebay link thats the same exact place I got mine from.

So I'm probably going to need to replace fuel lines as well? I need to get this tank dropped so I can see what I need...

Edited by Alsandr
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you dont 'need' the flare nut wrenches...but they would be nice. I had to use PB blaster + heat + 2 vice grips to make the fuel line connection release from under the car (due to corrosion). Usually vice grips will break things loose or just break them though...
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It looks like I should flush my fuel lines, but I have no compressed air to work with. I also don't have any flare wrenches... Suggestions?

 

you can buy a portable air tank and a good set of flare wrenches that arent all that expensive.

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-gallon-portable-air-tank-65594.html

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-metric-double-end-flare-nut-wrench-set-99993.html

 

you should start asking your buddies if one of them has a heat gun. you most likely will need some heat on the fitting between the hose after the pump and the hard line. you REALLY want to take your time with this and not mess it up. if you ruin the fitting on the hardline youve made alot of work for yourself.

Edited by 89PalermoSHP
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you can buy a portable air tank and a good set of flare wrenches that arent all that expensive.

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-gallon-portable-air-tank-65594.html

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-metric-double-end-flare-nut-wrench-set-99993.html

 

you should start asking your buddies if one of them has a heat gun. you most likely will need some heat on the fitting between the hose after the pump and the hard line. you REALLY want to take your time with this and not mess it up. if you ruin the fitting on the hardline youve made alot of work for yourself.

 

I don't have a heat gun. I do have a mini propane torch, but that might cause an explosion...

 

Also, why does PQ say to avoid a 3/8" filter in the SOS?

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I used one of those propane torches you can find at the parts stores *shrugs* you wont cause an explosion nor a fire so long as there are no fuel VAPORS present (the liquid itself wont really burn if the tank is still sealed up, added heat will only cause more vapor). But do take your time and dont melt lines and things like that, add some heat use some form of penetrant (they are usually flammable but wont usually ignite unless theres a puddle of it, if wary make a puddle and see how long it takes to actually light up and stay lit), try a flare wrench/vice grip and see if it gives any. But whatever you do, DONT twist the hardline or you'l be forming a new one.
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i got a milwaukee heat gun and really like it. there are other brands that may be a little cheaper if your short on funds. they come in handy quite often when an open flame isnt the best idea.

 

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=heat+gun&x=0&y=0&ih=7_0_1_1_0_0_0_0_0_1.114_229&fsc=5

 

or

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/Milwaukee-Heat-Gun-Model-1220-4000-btu-750F-1000F-/300446522836?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f4021dd4#ht_500wt_1154

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All right, I'm stuck.

 

I got started earlier and so far I've drained the fuel, unbolted the filler neck and pushed the harness through the hole. I'm on the three fuel lines and they're not budging...

 

How am I supposed to get that old rubber off the metal lines? And how do I work the flare nut? I've never successfully taken one off and no one has ever told me how it's supposed to work.

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