Aman Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 Finally got tired of the play in my wheel, and decided to window weld the steering socket coupler!A list of things you'll need:1: Window weld (You can get this at Autozone, Amazon, etc.)2: A caulk gun. (I suggest a Kobalt one from Lowes. I broke two and finally went for the Kobalt and it worked.3. A clean steering socket coupler. The rubber on the female side of the coupler just popped out of mine. The male side required scraping and a wire brush.4. Gloves (I recommend..) Well, heres your clean coupler.http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr285/manlavi90/IMAG0547_zps4b8f7dbb.jpgAs you can see, the female side is hollow.http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr285/manlavi90/IMAG0548_zps0535e02f.jpgI used a piece of blister packaging plastic from the wheel locks I bought early that day. I actually recommend aluminum can metal or something, using the clear piece as a template.http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr285/manlavi90/IMAG0549_zpsd0752e3a.jpghttp://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr285/manlavi90/IMAG0550_zps08bc7ce2.jpgStuff the piece in the female sidehttp://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr285/manlavi90/IMAG0551_zpsb8e1dd5c.jpgFill the female side with window weld. Just a forewarning, Window weld is some super stout stuff. I had to put the caulk gun handle on the workbench and lean on the gun to get the stuff to come out.http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr285/manlavi90/IMAG0552_zps9ab59636.jpgPut the male side into the female side. Leave 7/16'ths of an inch between the bottom of the female side and the beginning of where the rubber was on the male side.http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr285/manlavi90/IMAG0553_zpsa26d832f.jpgSlap your gloves on and run the bead around the coupler, but do it loosely. You want as much of the window weld to stay there, just make it look clean.http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr285/manlavi90/IMAG0554_zps0f17c942.jpg This job did pretty great for me, but I think I'm going to buy a a broken coupler from someone, window weld it, and put a piece of pipe over it and weld it. Metal weld for everything, window weld for back up. I feel a huge difference in steering though, and I retain the vibration absorbency. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mstieg Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 So you've been using this since? I'd like to hear feedback on the feel/vibration with the Window Weld vs. straight metal welding. I got pretty mixed results in a previous thread on this. Can't see how the Window Weld wouldn't work, unless it goes bad like the stock rubber over time. Still have the female/male stock setup that'll work but with play at worst. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aman Posted April 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 I'll give weekly updates. It held up great for it's first day of spirited driving today ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonnieJ Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 Can you just weld the 2 together rather than window weld epoxy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aman Posted April 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 People have thought about that, but the weld could fail over time, and when that weld pops, and the coupler is metal to metal play, it will be when you least expect it and ram someone. I'm going to window-weld + weld on my next coupler. Who wants to sell me one? Hahaha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonnieJ Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 Not mig I mean properly tig welded and back purged. I don't think that would pop if done right. It's stronger than epoxy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aman Posted April 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 This really makes me want to buy a worn coupler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeph_tsi Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 that window weld is some tough stuff, seems like a good fix to me. A trick I always used is to leave the tube in front of a torpedo heater for a minute or two, or if its hot out sit it on some hot asphault for 10 minutes or so, this will soften it up a bit and make it easier to use with a standard caulking gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 should be stickied. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Convette Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 Great write up, I know that stuff is amazingly strong. Ive seen ppl use it for all kinda of stuff. But why not just run a aftermarket steering joint, or just weld it solid like Ronnie said? If its shock absorption your after I understand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyWadd Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 Nice. What the clear plastic in there for? Just to keep it from flowing out the bottom? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aman Posted April 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 Indeed, we don't want super-stiff rubber in the splined side, or else you couldn't get in on the gearbox. Hahaha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aman Posted April 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 Also, a forewarning. The reason I said you should use a metal piece in the female side instead is because my plastic piece bent and squished into the splined area and let a little window weld through. Still went on the gearbox well, but I thought I should warn someone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vbrad511 Posted April 4, 2013 Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 Like was said above, heat the tube of WW for a few minutes. Set a halogen close for a few minutes, should be fine. I've had to do this with urethane before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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