Jump to content



idles/cruises hot


  • Please log in to reply
71 replies to this topic

#21 Caliber308

Caliber308

    Addicted Starquester

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,923 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Billings MT.
  • Interests:Precision rifle shooting, Starquests, Sexy women.
  • Model:Starion

Posted 25 October 2010 - 09:19 PM

View PostSkullzaflare, on 25 October 2010 - 09:10 PM, said:

Ao the tb leak can cause this?

Could be? Fix the Throttle body and see if your A/F readings change, and try some NGK BPR 8s in place of the 6s.

Bill

Edited by Caliber308, 25 October 2010 - 09:21 PM.

87 ESI-R: J.E.s 8 to 1 .040 over, Tims roller cam, Roller rockers,Marnal Head(ported and polished) Scheider HD valvesprings, SS Valves,Zero bal,TDO5H 17 C, K.V., OVC HP, Turbo X/S RFL, Aeromotive FPR, 950/1150 injectors, Walbro , MAF-T, AEM UEGO, Summit dig. CD Ignition. box , Mallory 67k coil,D2s.





#22 Indiana

Indiana

    Addicted Starquester

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 14,757 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Bloomington, IN
  • Model:Other

Posted 26 October 2010 - 01:49 PM

16g and 10psi is a baby turbo and baby boost

When the air fuel is near 16 and you take off from idle can you hear detonation/spark knock?

What cam do you have?  Is it a longer duration intake or stock?  Assuming everything IS working and correct a 292 cam causes something like this to happen.  If this is what you have then put in an 84-86 injector in place of the primary.  

What injectors do you have?  If this is a stock cam maybe your primary is wrong and too small iike a B or a K? or its failing have you had them cleaned?

You said you tested fuel pressure did you?

#23 Skullzaflare

Skullzaflare

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,760 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Bunker Hill, wv
  • Interests:Computers, hotrods, ratrods
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 26 October 2010 - 03:04 PM

View PostIndiana, on 26 October 2010 - 01:49 PM, said:

16g and 10psi is a baby turbo and baby boost

When the air fuel is near 16 and you take off from idle can you hear detonation/spark knock?

What cam do you have?  Is it a longer duration intake or stock?  Assuming everything IS working and correct a 292 cam causes something like this to happen.  If this is what you have then put in an 84-86 injector in place of the primary.  

What injectors do you have?  If this is a stock cam maybe your primary is wrong and too small iike a B or a K? or its failing have you had them cleaned?

You said you tested fuel pressure did you?
just how much of the thread have you read? i already answered most of that
no knock or clunks
stock cam
stock good green and black 88 injectors
yes idles at 38 and boosts at 52
Spark plug elimination kit

#24 Skullzaflare

Skullzaflare

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,760 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Bunker Hill, wv
  • Interests:Computers, hotrods, ratrods
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 26 October 2010 - 04:04 PM

View PostCaliber308, on 25 October 2010 - 09:19 PM, said:

Could be? Fix the Throttle body and see if your A/F readings change, and try some NGK BPR 8s in place of the 6s.

Bill
ok i rebuilt the TB, and got the oil pan done.
boost afr is 12.05-12.8
cruising is 15-16.5

it has bpr7ix in it right now
Spark plug elimination kit

#25 Caliber308

Caliber308

    Addicted Starquester

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,923 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Billings MT.
  • Interests:Precision rifle shooting, Starquests, Sexy women.
  • Model:Starion

Posted 26 October 2010 - 07:28 PM

View PostSkullzaflare, on 26 October 2010 - 04:04 PM, said:

ok i rebuilt the TB, and got the oil pan done.
boost afr is 12.05-12.8
cruising is 15-16.5

it has bpr7ix in it right now

So doing the Throttle body gaskets helped it run a little richer. Try some colder spark plugs: NGK BPR 8s. And just for kicks, what kind, and the cc rating on your injectors? Boost AFR is fine, but Cruising is still a little lean.

Bill
87 ESI-R: J.E.s 8 to 1 .040 over, Tims roller cam, Roller rockers,Marnal Head(ported and polished) Scheider HD valvesprings, SS Valves,Zero bal,TDO5H 17 C, K.V., OVC HP, Turbo X/S RFL, Aeromotive FPR, 950/1150 injectors, Walbro , MAF-T, AEM UEGO, Summit dig. CD Ignition. box , Mallory 67k coil,D2s.

#26 Indiana

Indiana

    Addicted Starquester

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 14,757 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Bloomington, IN
  • Model:Other

Posted 26 October 2010 - 08:04 PM

The IX stands for Iridium

Poor luck with those I won't run them if they give them to me and they are still the design that fouls out and no way in hell you need an 8 with only 10psi, maybe when you hit 25 or 30 ok.  With an idle AFR of 16 and an 8 for a plug the motor will barely idle its just too cold and you can't correct lean with a cooler plug and lean is what you got.

I still suspect your injectors, likely the primary since your boost numbers seem alright.  You tried another one or only have the one primary to use?

There have been some distributors that the mechanical weights stick on and cause timing to be too far advanced when the rpms come down this can cause high EGTs has anyone messed with the springs in the distributor?  Maybe one came off or broke?

You hooked to where for seeing this boost gauge is reading?  What is your vacuum at idle by the way?

To me the coolant isn't too hot but the EGTs are since you say the manifold is glowing and this in turn causes coolant temps. to increase.  

Air fuel is amount of fuel and how long its allowed to burn.  In other words injectors and ignition timing if you think that the motor is fine and the boost level is accurate and the exhaust isn't clogged up.

#27 Caliber308

Caliber308

    Addicted Starquester

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,923 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Billings MT.
  • Interests:Precision rifle shooting, Starquests, Sexy women.
  • Model:Starion

Posted 26 October 2010 - 08:23 PM

Over the years that I have been modding these cars it is best to own three sets of Spark Plugs: 6s,7s and 8s. No two cars run alike even with the same set up. Experimentation with Spark plugs is sometimes needed if your running too lean or too rich. What do the 6s look like? You can learn a lot about how your engine is running by just reading your Spark plugs.If you have the ability to adjust the fuel flow, increase it by 1 psi, and re-read your A/F ratios.

Bill

Edited by Caliber308, 26 October 2010 - 08:32 PM.

87 ESI-R: J.E.s 8 to 1 .040 over, Tims roller cam, Roller rockers,Marnal Head(ported and polished) Scheider HD valvesprings, SS Valves,Zero bal,TDO5H 17 C, K.V., OVC HP, Turbo X/S RFL, Aeromotive FPR, 950/1150 injectors, Walbro , MAF-T, AEM UEGO, Summit dig. CD Ignition. box , Mallory 67k coil,D2s.

#28 Skullzaflare

Skullzaflare

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,760 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Bunker Hill, wv
  • Interests:Computers, hotrods, ratrods
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 26 October 2010 - 08:45 PM

View PostIndiana, on 26 October 2010 - 08:04 PM, said:

The IX stands for Iridium

Poor luck with those I won't run them if they give them to me and they are still the design that fouls out and no way in hell you need an 8 with only 10psi, maybe when you hit 25 or 30 ok.  With an idle AFR of 16 and an 8 for a plug the motor will barely idle its just too cold and you can't correct lean with a cooler plug and lean is what you got.

I still suspect your injectors, likely the primary since your boost numbers seem alright.  You tried another one or only have the one primary to use?

There have been some distributors that the mechanical weights stick on and cause timing to be too far advanced when the rpms come down this can cause high EGTs has anyone messed with the springs in the distributor?  Maybe one came off or broke?

You hooked to where for seeing this boost gauge is reading?  What is your vacuum at idle by the way?

To me the coolant isn't too hot but the EGTs are since you say the manifold is glowing and this in turn causes coolant temps. to increase.  

Air fuel is amount of fuel and how long its allowed to burn.  In other words injectors and ignition timing if you think that the motor is fine and the boost level is accurate and the exhaust isn't clogged up.
the IX were in my original engine when i got it, they were the only other plugs i could find. i do have a set of BPR7e?-11 i can try
i have 3 more primarys i can try
this is the distributor i ran in my old engine with no glowing manifold (dont know afr since wideband wasnt installed), the distributor the engine cam with must have been mad, as we cant get the timing any closer than 6d btdc with it

at the time i had it on the egr nipple before the throttle plate, where it reads boost only, when i rebuilt the TB i hooked it to the middle nipple, middle nipple reads 7psi where the outside reads 10.5psi
i cant get my gauge to read vacuum for some reason.
cats are gutted, and alot of flow from exhaust

View PostCaliber308, on 26 October 2010 - 08:23 PM, said:

Over the years that I have been modding these cars it is best to own three sets of Spark Plugs: 6s,7s and 8s. No two cars run alike even with the same set up. Experimentation with Spark plugs is sometimes needed if your running too lean or too rich. What do the 6s look like? You can learn a lot about how your engine is running by just reading your Spark plugs.If you have the ability to adjust the fuel flow, increase it by 1 psi, and re-read your A/F ratios.

Bill
the bpr6's were almost white, which to carbs are lean
Spark plug elimination kit

#29 Caliber308

Caliber308

    Addicted Starquester

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,923 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Billings MT.
  • Interests:Precision rifle shooting, Starquests, Sexy women.
  • Model:Starion

Posted 26 October 2010 - 09:16 PM

View PostSkullzaflare, on 26 October 2010 - 08:45 PM, said:

the IX were in my original engine when i got it, they were the only other plugs i could find. i do have a set of BPR7e?-11 i can try
i have 3 more primarys i can try
this is the distributor i ran in my old engine with no glowing manifold (dont know afr since wideband wasnt installed), the distributor the engine cam with must have been mad, as we cant get the timing any closer than 6d btdc with it

at the time i had it on the egr nipple before the throttle plate, where it reads boost only, when i rebuilt the TB i hooked it to the middle nipple, middle nipple reads 7psi where the outside reads 10.5psi
i cant get my gauge to read vacuum for some reason.
cats are gutted, and alot of flow from exhaust


the bpr6's were almost white, which to carbs are lean

Same with our cars. Too hot a plug can cause overheating as can incorrect timing. Try the 7s and read them or try the 8s.If you run the car at high speeds a lot, try the 8s.I have my Boost Gauge spliced into the hose below the row of three: "You want the lowest source of vacuum for the most accurate vacuum reading"

Good Luck,
Bill

Edited by Caliber308, 26 October 2010 - 09:19 PM.

87 ESI-R: J.E.s 8 to 1 .040 over, Tims roller cam, Roller rockers,Marnal Head(ported and polished) Scheider HD valvesprings, SS Valves,Zero bal,TDO5H 17 C, K.V., OVC HP, Turbo X/S RFL, Aeromotive FPR, 950/1150 injectors, Walbro , MAF-T, AEM UEGO, Summit dig. CD Ignition. box , Mallory 67k coil,D2s.

#30 Skullzaflare

Skullzaflare

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,760 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Bunker Hill, wv
  • Interests:Computers, hotrods, ratrods
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 26 October 2010 - 09:48 PM

View PostCaliber308, on 26 October 2010 - 09:16 PM, said:

Same with our cars. Too hot a plug can cause overheating as can incorrect timing. Try the 7s and read them or try the 8s.If you run the car at high speeds a lot, try the 8s.I have my Boost Gauge spliced into the hose below the row of three: "You want the lowest source of vacuum for the most accurate vacuum reading"

Good Luck,
Bill
ive had it to 135 on the old motor, but generally speaking i only run it up to 100

the heater controls?

ok ill throw the bpr7's in tomorrow and see what they show. ill try to find my bur7's. theres still in my bpr6 box where ever i put it
Spark plug elimination kit

#31 Indiana

Indiana

    Addicted Starquester

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 14,757 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Bloomington, IN
  • Model:Other

Posted 27 October 2010 - 12:08 PM

This is sounding like something different now.  

What does your boost gauge read with the motor off?
Idling?
Where is the hose for it hooked to?
Was this gauge dropped on the floor?  
Was it new?  Brand?

Do you have a boost controller?  Disconnect it, remove it from the hose and put it back just a hose from the wastegate actuator to the intercooler plumbing.

Are you looking at the stock boost gauge for any of these numbers?

What port is the vac. adv. on?
You have any other hoses on the TB like EGR or vent hoses for fuel vapor or thermovalve or secondary air cleaner?

How did you compare the two ports for boost and get different numbers?

You should get a vacuum gauge, about 5-10.00 and put it on the forward most port of those three in a row on your throttlebody.  Should be none at idle then with slight opening of throttle you will see some vacuum.

On the middle port you see vacuum while idling and will go away as throttle is opened.

You only need three hoses on this motor for it to run, one from the front port to your vac. adv., one to the fuel pressure regulator and one from the wastegate actuator to the intercooler plumbing.  How many do you have and are they connected this way?

Boost numbers on throttlebody ports will not be the same if one is above or near the throttleplate and the other isn't unless the throttle is wide open.  Boost will show on the forward port if the throttle is part open but you might have none on the lower port in the manifold, You could have 10psi on the front port and 5 on the bottom it all depends on engine rpms and throttle plate position.  The engine is sucking air and the throttleplate is a door, open the door and some boost comes in but all those ports do not ever match unless the door is all the way open.

Its possible for passages in the throttlebody to be clogged up.  When you rebuilt it did you use compressed air and blow them all out and what kind of sealant did you use when you put the paper gasket back in?  If you have other hoses than the three I stated, remove all of them except those three.  Not seeing vacuum on your boost gauge is a problem.  It could be the gauge or the passage clogged and if one is clogged so may be another.  Maybe your FPR passage is blocked and you are not getting any extra fuel pressure.  

Did you unplug the knock sensor and see if timing changes yet? Do you have a timing light?

Posted Image

Edited by Indiana, 27 October 2010 - 12:10 PM.


#32 Caliber308

Caliber308

    Addicted Starquester

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,923 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Billings MT.
  • Interests:Precision rifle shooting, Starquests, Sexy women.
  • Model:Starion

Posted 27 October 2010 - 12:25 PM

See, you have all kinds of advice with trying to solve your problem. And it's free.Try them all. One will most likely fix it. One, or others posting help have most likely experienced the same problem your having. One way, by a explanation from one member might not be the way it gets fixed. But with combined experiences with troubleshooting or personal events that happened, you might be able to fix it.We are not wizards...We can only try to steer you in the right direction.

Bill

Edited by Caliber308, 27 October 2010 - 12:40 PM.

87 ESI-R: J.E.s 8 to 1 .040 over, Tims roller cam, Roller rockers,Marnal Head(ported and polished) Scheider HD valvesprings, SS Valves,Zero bal,TDO5H 17 C, K.V., OVC HP, Turbo X/S RFL, Aeromotive FPR, 950/1150 injectors, Walbro , MAF-T, AEM UEGO, Summit dig. CD Ignition. box , Mallory 67k coil,D2s.

#33 Skullzaflare

Skullzaflare

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,760 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Bunker Hill, wv
  • Interests:Computers, hotrods, ratrods
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 27 October 2010 - 12:32 PM

View PostIndiana, on 27 October 2010 - 12:08 PM, said:

This is sounding like something different now.  

What does your boost gauge read with the motor off?
Idling?
Where is the hose for it hooked to?
Was this gauge dropped on the floor?  
Was it new?  Brand?

Do you have a boost controller?  Disconnect it, remove it from the hose and put it back just a hose from the wastegate actuator to the intercooler plumbing.

Are you looking at the stock boost gauge for any of these numbers?

What port is the vac. adv. on?
You have any other hoses on the TB like EGR or vent hoses for fuel vapor or thermovalve or secondary air cleaner?

How did you compare the two ports for boost and get different numbers?

You should get a vacuum gauge, about 5-10.00 and put it on the forward most port of those three in a row on your throttlebody.  Should be none at idle then with slight opening of throttle you will see some vacuum.

On the middle port you see vacuum while idling and will go away as throttle is opened.

You only need three hoses on this motor for it to run, one from the front port to your vac. adv., one to the fuel pressure regulator and one from the wastegate actuator to the intercooler plumbing.  How many do you have and are they connected this way?

Boost numbers on throttlebody ports will not be the same if one is above or near the throttleplate and the other isn't unless the throttle is wide open.  Boost will show on the forward port if the throttle is part open but you might have none on the lower port in the manifold, You could have 10psi on the front port and 5 on the bottom it all depends on engine rpms and throttle plate position.  The engine is sucking air and the throttleplate is a door, open the door and some boost comes in but all those ports do not ever match unless the door is all the way open.

Its possible for passages in the throttlebody to be clogged up.  When you rebuilt it did you use compressed air and blow them all out and what kind of sealant did you use when you put the paper gasket back in?  If you have other hoses than the three I stated, remove all of them except those three.  Not seeing vacuum on your boost gauge is a problem.  It could be the gauge or the passage clogged and if one is clogged so may be another.  Maybe your FPR passage is blocked and you are not getting any extra fuel pressure.  

Did you unplug the knock sensor and see if timing changes yet? Do you have a timing light?

http://www.b2600turb...ges/distri1.jpg
yes i have dropped it before and had to disassemble it and recalibrate it
engine off reads .5+
idling -2 to 0
at the moment of these numbers, middle port of the 3
wasnt new, i would have to go look at brand

no boost controller, i installed a 3 port actuator and only have 1 line connected (other blocked)
vac advance is on first port, BOV on 3rd port, wastegate on intake pipe. no emissions crap. throttle plate nipple blocked
yes i cleaned every inch of the TB when i rebuild it, no blocked passages
vac advance has no vac at idle but changes as soon as you crack throttle
middle port my gauge is currently hooked to, normally i had the gauge on the throttleplate nipple

you are correct on boost change. the throttleplate nipple reads 11 (10.5 with the +.5) and the middle port reads 7-8
i think i need a new gauge, no i never go by the dash gauge since it changes with easch maf i try lol

i didnt put any sealant on the gasket when i rebuilt it
i havent tried knock sensor since i have to borrow neigboors jack to get car off ground, i dont have a jack that fits under car


btw, i changed both of my injectors, and idles at an almost even 15.3-15.6 with occasional 16. if i nail the gas it doesnt have that slight hesitation at the first hit.
havent drove it yet
Spark plug elimination kit

#34 Skullzaflare

Skullzaflare

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,760 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Bunker Hill, wv
  • Interests:Computers, hotrods, ratrods
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 27 October 2010 - 03:02 PM

Ok, I just drove the car, still has the low poer below 3k. Still cruisong at 16-17 afr seen 18 once.
Can tps adjustment cause any of this?

just to add, cruising at 2000 or 3000+ afr will dump to 18 and car starts to hesitate

Edited by Skullzaflare, 27 October 2010 - 03:52 PM.

Spark plug elimination kit

#35 Caliber308

Caliber308

    Addicted Starquester

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,923 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Billings MT.
  • Interests:Precision rifle shooting, Starquests, Sexy women.
  • Model:Starion

Posted 27 October 2010 - 04:23 PM

View PostSkullzaflare, on 27 October 2010 - 03:02 PM, said:

Ok, I just drove the car, still has the low poer below 3k. Still cruisong at 16-17 afr seen 18 once.
Can tps adjustment cause any of this?

just to add, cruising at 2000 or 3000+ afr will dump to 18 and car starts to hesitate
I thought I read that. You need a complete revamp of your fuel system. 16 to 17 afr on cruise is way too lean. Have you checked your injectors? Do this. Set everything back to stock. Then check your A/F readings. Seems like your injectors are either clogged, or your fuel pressure is lacking. Running lean has these symptoms: Fuel, Spark plugs, Timing, Fuel filters. What kind of A/F Gauge are you reading off of?

Bill

Edited by Caliber308, 27 October 2010 - 04:26 PM.

87 ESI-R: J.E.s 8 to 1 .040 over, Tims roller cam, Roller rockers,Marnal Head(ported and polished) Scheider HD valvesprings, SS Valves,Zero bal,TDO5H 17 C, K.V., OVC HP, Turbo X/S RFL, Aeromotive FPR, 950/1150 injectors, Walbro , MAF-T, AEM UEGO, Summit dig. CD Ignition. box , Mallory 67k coil,D2s.

#36 Caliber308

Caliber308

    Addicted Starquester

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,923 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Billings MT.
  • Interests:Precision rifle shooting, Starquests, Sexy women.
  • Model:Starion

Posted 27 October 2010 - 04:33 PM

O.K. We're going to start from scratch. I want you to list everything you have done to your car, and I mean everything. From the time you purchased it until today.List all changes in the order that you did them. List EVERYTHING in the correct order.Also list any mods done prior to your purchasing the car. This is the best way to go about it.



Bill

Edited by Caliber308, 27 October 2010 - 04:42 PM.

87 ESI-R: J.E.s 8 to 1 .040 over, Tims roller cam, Roller rockers,Marnal Head(ported and polished) Scheider HD valvesprings, SS Valves,Zero bal,TDO5H 17 C, K.V., OVC HP, Turbo X/S RFL, Aeromotive FPR, 950/1150 injectors, Walbro , MAF-T, AEM UEGO, Summit dig. CD Ignition. box , Mallory 67k coil,D2s.

#37 Skullzaflare

Skullzaflare

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,760 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Bunker Hill, wv
  • Interests:Computers, hotrods, ratrods
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 27 October 2010 - 05:01 PM

1987 conquest
when i bought the car it had a slight upper engine noise, also ran about 2/3rds up the temp gauge (drove it home)
car had hardpipes
16g with 1 port wg act
bov
msd blaster 2 coil
2 oddball injectors (a primary and a B)(also have a thread on that)
next mani was glowing so i pulled all the exhaust and hollowed the secondary cat (pre was already hollow)
had alot of manifold leaks so i pulled that and restudded the head
i also attempted to clutch fan the stock radiator. i made it les than 1 mile, the fan blades curled over and diced the radiator. so i bought a new aluminum sr20 radiator and installed it, temps never went over 192 even boosting at 135mph (still no manifold glow either)
so i was tired of the engine, and threw the 3 port act on it to run 10.5psi, which without exhaust is 13lbs


at this point i bought a 88 shp parts car
i pulled a throttle body out of the car and switched it with the one on my car (shaft seals were leaking on old one, one i put on didnt leak)
i used rtv sealant and not new gaskets.
i drove the car for about another week when i got my new correct injectors in (green and black) i put those in then that night seemed i spun a bearing (i have a thread on that i believe)
also installed a 1g maf from in the parts car


last tuesday i went a picked up a new engine (88 88k miles with jetvalve and bs's) with a new clutch.
weds i installed the new engine and clutch.
car and engine is so much quieter but slower.
first thing i had issue with was a sure at idle and wouldnt go over 2k rpm. somehow timing was at 25d. tried adjusting it, couldnt get close, moved the distributor 1 tooth and the closest we could get it was 6d btdc. so we put my old distributor in, ran perfect

i reused my upper throttle body/injectors, turbo, turbo lines, motor mounts, vac lines, oil pressure sending unit.
new engine runs hot when you come to stop. and cruising low speeds.
manifold glows (even if you dont boost it glows a little)
got the wideband in right after new engine install, and seen afr's, along with the weird throttling the new motor has


first thing i did was flush the coolent system, it had 100% antifreeze in it
2nd thing i did was throw bpr7es-11 in it, shortly after changing to bur7ea-11 (had to order)




somewhere along in there when i got my new injectors after parts car i found out the car wont go over 4k with the maf that was in it when i got it

edit - woop forgot to add that at the same time as the MAF i installed a 88 ecu

Edited by Skullzaflare, 27 October 2010 - 05:17 PM.

Spark plug elimination kit

#38 Caliber308

Caliber308

    Addicted Starquester

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,923 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Billings MT.
  • Interests:Precision rifle shooting, Starquests, Sexy women.
  • Model:Starion

Posted 27 October 2010 - 05:37 PM

First things first. 100% antifreeze will make it run hot. A 50/50% mix of water/antifreeze will be much better. Have you done a test on your Injectors? How are you cooling the Nissan SR20 radiator? One fan or two. Timing at the correct setting is also important. 10 DEGREES BTDC. You might want to ask about installing a 1988 MAS into a 1987. I have no knowledge on that.I know that the MAS plugs are the same, but the Ignitor is different. You really didn't upgrade,If you would have installed a 1st gen MAS from a Turbo car (1990-1994 DSM) that is a upgrade.  Sounds to me like your injectors are not working properly and your timing is off. Perhaps, that is why your running lean at cruise.Lack of fuel and a incorrect timing setting could be the cause. Do you have a Fuel Pressure Gauge that is accurate? If so, what is the reading at idle?

Edited by Caliber308, 27 October 2010 - 05:53 PM.

87 ESI-R: J.E.s 8 to 1 .040 over, Tims roller cam, Roller rockers,Marnal Head(ported and polished) Scheider HD valvesprings, SS Valves,Zero bal,TDO5H 17 C, K.V., OVC HP, Turbo X/S RFL, Aeromotive FPR, 950/1150 injectors, Walbro , MAF-T, AEM UEGO, Summit dig. CD Ignition. box , Mallory 67k coil,D2s.

#39 Skullzaflare

Skullzaflare

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,760 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Bunker Hill, wv
  • Interests:Computers, hotrods, ratrods
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 27 October 2010 - 05:55 PM

View PostCaliber308, on 27 October 2010 - 05:37 PM, said:

First things first. 100% antifreeze will make it run hot. A 50/50% mix of water/antifreeze will be much better. Have you done a test on your Injectors? How are you cooling the Nissan SR20 radiator? One fan or two. Timing at the correct setting is also important. 10 DEGREES BTDC. You might want to ask about installing a 1988 MAS into a 1987. I have no knowledge on that.I know that the MAS plugs are the same, but the Ignitor is different. You really didn't upgrade,If you would have installed a 1st gen MAS from a Turbo car (1990-1994 DSM) that is a upgrade.  Sounds to me like your injectors are not working properly and your timing is off. Perhaps, that is why your running lean at cruise.Lack of fuel and timing setting could be the cause. Do you have a Fuel Pressure Gauge that is accurate? If so, what is the reading at idle?
i said i have a 1g maf? never said i had a 88 maf, i have a 88 ecu
at this very moment i have pure water in the system. the radiator has 1 16" 3200 cfm fan
i didnt have fuel issues on other engine though. eitherway, when i changed injectors earlier, it only changed idle afr a little

i recently removed the FR gauge, yes it was accurate autometer. idle was 38psi, full boost was 52 psi (i think ive typed that 5 times now lol)

Edited by Skullzaflare, 27 October 2010 - 05:56 PM.

Spark plug elimination kit

#40 Indiana

Indiana

    Addicted Starquester

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 14,757 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Bloomington, IN
  • Model:Other

Posted 27 October 2010 - 06:07 PM

Get a new boost gauge or borrow one and compare.  On the WG actuator, the nipple next to the one you are using on the outer part you can, the single inner one leave uncapped and open.

Something seems wrong with your distributor and that can be causing all of this.






0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users