89fiji Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 Hey guys, have been searching through the forum quite a bit for similar issues and have replaced some parts and checked some things that similar posts have provided answers to, however am still very stumped. I'll try to be as descriptive as possible. Car is an 89 conquest, manual, has some mods, hard pipes and bigger intercooler, 2 1/2 inch exhaust piping and hks muffler. Was running about 17psi before this issue showed up. The turbo seems like it may be dying, but is not currently the issue I'm facing. Real issue at the moment is car dies after warming up. I have replaced coolant temperature sensor. Compression on all cylinders are around 110-120. Spark seems very good and timing is set. New fuel pump, filter is nice and clean as well. The car has what appears to be good fuel pressure all the way up to the injectors, but after the car warms up it sputters and eventually dies. I then pull off the ovcp and visually inspect the injectors through the throttle body and while cranking the car over (cranks very well), there seems to be no fuel coming out. Thanks for any advice in advance, great forum so far, hopefully after figuring this issue out I can contribute my findings to the information already here. it starts and runs when coldonce it runs and starts to warm up it dies. as soon as the ECU temp sensor cools the process repeats. tried new ECU Temp Sensor same results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 have you read up on the TPS - ISC reset? Link:http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=28069 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 Do you still have good fuel pressure when it dies? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89fiji Posted May 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 Have reset tps and isc, and car seems like it has great fuel pressure even after dieing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89fiji Posted May 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2013 Does the computer get the signal to trigger the injectors from the distributor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAinsworth Posted May 30, 2013 Report Share Posted May 30, 2013 Sounds like the fuel pump is heating up and shutting down. Could be clogged filters or worn out pump. Jimmy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89fiji Posted May 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2013 Pump was just replaced, and it seems like it has pressure all the way to the injectors even when the car is warmed up. So confusing.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted May 30, 2013 Report Share Posted May 30, 2013 maybe a fuel pressure gauge could help.stock fuel pressure is around 38 PSI. with my adjustable i run 41 PSI. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89fiji Posted May 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2013 Yah would probably help a ton. Doesn't it require a special fitting for the fuel pressure gauge though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted May 30, 2013 Report Share Posted May 30, 2013 (edited) i usd an adapter and a summit liquid filled gauge here and also this prosport sensor here as well. http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/I-W/Quest_Parts_and_Info/IMG_1416.jpg http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/I-W/Quest_Parts_and_Info/IMG_1415.jpg Edited May 30, 2013 by importwarrior Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89fiji Posted May 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2013 Do you happen to have part numbers for those? Would like to get a similar set up for mine as well. Would I be able to go buy a cheap fuel pressure gauge and a T fitting and throw it inline? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89fiji Posted May 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2013 So went through some other things in addition to what's listed above. I'm still not 100% on fuel pressure, dont have a gauge, but it really does look like it is getting plenty of fuel. Can hold my thumb on the line and it pushes hard. The return line is also clear. All the filters are clean and flowing well. Pulled off injectors and flowed them and checked for leaks, and they seem great as well. Checked continuity through the wires of the cts to the ecu and there is little to no resistance. Cts is brand new and ohms out properly. Timing seems perfect. Plugs are new, great spark. Set tps and checked isc. Still cannot figure out why the car gets warm and just dies, then is very difficult to restart and keep running. Not sure where else to go from here or what to check. Also spent about 3 hours last night reading through the fuel injection section of the FSM, and checking any post on the forum here that had anything to do with a non starting issue or bad idle problem. Any other ideas fellers? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted May 31, 2013 Report Share Posted May 31, 2013 once his car warms up it dies. it warms up enough for the radiator fans to come on.it just dies.he has 2 CTS the original and a new one. both seem to function fine when checking themwith the ohm meter. we put one CTS in the fridge.to cool it down.once the CTS that is in the intake gets to temp the car dies.you can pull the CTS out of Fridge and hook it up and car starts right up and idles fine.untill it gets to around 300 to 329 ohms. everything else seems to be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89fiji Posted June 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2013 This is true Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted June 1, 2013 Report Share Posted June 1, 2013 Any help would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89fiji Posted June 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2013 Soooo... got around to checking the timing chain, and there is a lot of play in the chain it looks like. Possibly throwing the cam timing off so far that it just doesn't want to make boost. Does make any sense? It may not be all my issues, but I don't know what else to check at this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted June 2, 2013 Report Share Posted June 2, 2013 (edited) timing chain might have a little slack. once the oil pressurecomes up then it should not have any or very little. some pics and info here. http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=944 right at the tip to the left of the red tool is where the oil pump pressurizes the black tensioner. http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d182/Professor-Quest123/ENGINE%20REBUILD/P1010395.jpg Edited June 2, 2013 by importwarrior Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89fiji Posted June 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2013 It's pretty stretched though, takes about 5degrees maybe more of crank rotation before the distributor even starts to move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89fiji Posted June 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2013 Any other thoughts before I attempt to tear into the front end of my engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted June 3, 2013 Report Share Posted June 3, 2013 first get a fuel pressure gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted June 4, 2013 Report Share Posted June 4, 2013 any updates? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted June 4, 2013 Report Share Posted June 4, 2013 found this info thought it might be helpful A bad O2 sensor won't cause starting issues. The afctory/stock O2 sensor doesn'teven begin to work until several minutes after the engine has been started... and theECU ignores the O2 sensor during startup & idling as well. An injector sticking open, flooding the engine, fits your symptoms. You'll probably findgas-soaked spark plugs (which are now trashed by the way; very difficult to really cleanthem) and if you remove the EGR you'll probably find a little gas drips from the intake manifold holes. Once in a great while an injector sticking open is caused by an external issue: a badECU or short in the wiring harness. Try this test: when the engine is cold (when youknow it'll start) unplug the electrical leads to both injectors. Try starting. If the carstarts or sputters like it's going to start then one (or both) injectors are leaking. If itjust cranks over - and you don't get the gas smell - then the problems are outside ofthe injectors. mike c Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89fiji Posted June 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2013 Here's the fuel pressure when the car dies. Pic is kinda hard to see, but looks like it's around 38-39psi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 anyupdates? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 (edited) once his car warms up it dies. it warms up enough for the radiator fans to come on.it just dies.he has 2 CTS the original and a new one. both seem to function fine when checking themwith the ohm meter. we put one CTS in the fridge.to cool it down.once the CTS that is in the intake gets to temp the car dies.you can pull the CTS out of Fridge and hook it up and car starts right up and idles fine.untill it gets to around 300 to 329 ohms. everything else seems to be fine.You are describing a car that needs the fuel enrichment from a cold clt sensor to run. A wide band gauge would likely show it barely getting enough fuel when cold, and than leaning out till it quits. Primary injector is suspect as is the airflow meter and intake pipe for a big leak letting in unmetered air after the airflow meter. The ecu will not provide fuel for unmetered air. What about the in tank fuel filter? Has that been replaced and the tank inspected for floating crap? Said crap can build up on the filter till the car dies, and than fall off after the pump shuts down. This would give the impression that the fuel pressure was ok once the car restarts and you look under the hood. The fuel pressure gauges needs to be visible driving down the road. This can be done with length of hose on a temporary bases. Edited June 7, 2013 by StarquestRescue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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