So i used to turn the key and it would start in 5 seconds. I'm chasing a mystery oil leak so I decreased and washed my engine bay the other evening. Low water pressure and carefully where i sprayed. On the drive home I had a couple misfire and stumble moments. Figured water in distributor cap. Went away quickly. Now this morning it takes almost 30 seconds of cranking for it to start. Happens every time. Hot or cold engine. Any ideas?

Whatdo you guys use to replace the rear hatch strong arms? Rear defrost is not important to me by the way.

summitracing sells sensors that could work on our cars. I know these might be priced a little high but it is just another option for us to consider.   http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-890017/overview/   Fan Control, Thermostatic, 185 Degrees On/170 Degrees Off, Sending Unit, 3/8 in. NPT, Each $29.97   and if you want to keep it stock here is the secondary sensor.   http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-890018/overview/   Fan Control, Thermostatic, 200 Degrees On/185 Degrees Off, Sending Uni

I got a job making pretty good money, and the only expenses I have are internet, so I have a lot of funds to throw at my car. My goal is anywhere from 300 to 400 HP and Lb. Ft. So clearly the choices are: 1. Lower shores manifold and 52MM TB, stock ECU, MAF-T 2. Same but with MS instead of ECU and MAF-T 3. I could go the full distance and just get MS and MPI and piece it together.   I already know I want a JDL manifold and HX35. I've also got a spare long block I'm going to start working on soon