steelwindmachine

i'm fully aware of his other great products which do exist... just tired of this smoke-and-mirrors show on these headlights.

Anyone realize it has been over a year since Art originally started this project? How about when the project is completed or you have a actual working proto-type then you post instead of posting about something you'd like to make, but obviously haven't...

one of the benefits of being an American is having the right to voice your own opinion in a public forum. its nice to see one of these cars repaired and cleaned up instead of parted out or wrecked. I'm not sure what your inspiration or psuedo-automotive role models consist of. In my opinion there are several visual aspects of this car which keep it from being a symbiotic blend of restoration with modification that is best showcased usually in concept cars and other good execution of style, design and performance. The color you chose to accent all the trim just calls attention to itself and for what? When was the last time you saw colored wire loom used in a high quality show car or magazine car? The hood scoops, since their not original to the car, and their curvature matches nothing else on the car and they aren't even molded in...they seem to stand-out in a out-of-place way. At first, when I was following your work it looked great. Nice, clean and tastefull. Somehwhere along the line bad taste seeped in and it just seems like you went overboard and you're calling attention to things that look out of place, or that just shouldn't be highlighted. Take a look at a Chevy SSR, Chrylser 300 or Crossfire, some Ferraris, or just page through your favorite car mag. Most people don't go haywire with some blatant off the wall coloration or if they do its usually done to accentuate something of symetry, uniqueness, etc... Agree with me, don't agree with me, like me or hate me... this is my opinion and thankfully, in America, you're welcome to yours.

What did you do about all the weatherstripping, spoiler, plastic trim parts in terms of replacing, masking, etc? did you buy any new trim retainer clips, or weatherstrip, or did you just mask off everything you didn't want painted on the car and just spray it whole?

you should be able to tap the factory tach line... but, i don't know what the pulse is or if it needs to be corrected using a resistor(s). and btw, Mike Licht at FullThrottle doesn't make them Bob Bailey is the guy who invented it and builds them, Mike is just a sales guy and when things start getting technical and you try asking him "how does this work?" he can be very condescending and sugarcoat things. If you want to know more specifics on the requirements, you can email BoB Bailey direct: bob@bailey-eng.com

For our turbo headers and NA headers we usually use 1/4" steel flange with SS 321 tubing. You DO NOT use stainless bolts on the header, turbo flanges or down-pipe flanges because stainless will gall from the heat. Use Grade 8 black-oxide coated bolts without Anti-seize. Instead use graphite lube. You can use grade 8 header bolts or studes from ARP and they'll be fine. A steel flange will be fine and won't really rust since any moisture its exposed to when the car is running will be burned off immeadiantly. You could spray paint it with a hi-temp paint if it irks you. No need to reinvent the wheel here. For more online info, check Stainless Works or Burns Stainless.

Currently I'm not powdercoating anything since I'm in the process of starting another shop. Once things are set up, I will make a post here.

i think you'll need a flux capacitor and a Mr. Fusion

A Supra stock engine bottom end can handle over 1000hp, while the RB engines can handle 2200hp If you are striving to go against the grain, then go with a RB engine, however, I think dollar-per-dollar and in terms of availability WITHOUT having to order stuff from Japan all the time, the Supra engine is a great way to go because you can get parts for it IN this country (USA). If you're going for Wow and Show, and you drop enough money to get either a Supra or Skyline engine to 1000Hp+, you're going to need some serious chassis work to keep the Conquest/Starion from twistings itself into a pretzel anyway, so if you have that kind of money to spend, then either engine doesn't matter. Once you're over that 1000hp mark on stock internals, the RB engine is reliable for another 1200hp. Most people will never own a vehicle that makes anywhere near that much power, let alone would they know how to handle it. Both the Supra and RB engines can be had for not a whole lot of money, but if you want to make more power then their stock output, the sky is the limit. They are both inline-6s and they both work in a RWD setup.

If you have the money, then anything will fit: http://www.xatracing.com/xatracingparts.ht...ssanengine.html Very Good thread: http://www.nissanforums.com/showthread.php?threadid=8979

any idea on what the spring rates will be on these different size bars? reason to consider, is if you upgrade the sway bar to a higher spring rate it effectively increases the spring rate of the springs on the front (if front bar is installed), and rear (if rear bar is installed). If you stiffen the front bar, the understeer is increased (or oversteer decreased). If you stiffen the rear bar, the oversteer is increased (or understeer decreased). Softening a bar has the oppositve effect. I haven't actually driven a bone stock StarQuest, but if the car oversteers during steady state cornering, a softer rear bar or a stiffer front bar should help reduce or eliminate the condition. Which bar to change depends on several factors. If the bars are available as adjustable, that would definitely give them a head above all others and allow people to dial each into a range best for their respective car/application. If this manufacturer has been manufacturing suspension components for such a long time, they should be able to analyze the stock configuration of these cars and come up with a recommended suspension package including the bars, springs, shocks, etc.

If you have the sizes of the bearings and seals, try Bill Abel at Western Drivetrain: 800.595.6042 Last I spoke to him he couldn't find anything for the application in his books so he'd need the exact sizes of everything. His prices are great, he carries Timken and Yukon rebuild kits. If you come up with a complete kit to rebuild a 89 LSD, I'm interested. I also work at Dynotech Performance (www.dynotechperformance.com), so if there is any such thing as dealer pricing

only my opinion... I agree with JamesR on the removal of the tunnel section on the bottom portion of the assembly. Anything round on a very boxy car immeadiantly looks out of place. I think the tunnels further draw a conflicting sort of attention to the out-of-place look of the lights. The flat, broad entrence to the round bulbs will help balance the transition from the car's exterior easing the blend to the round bulbs. On my application, i'd powdercoat (if metal is to be used), or paint the bucket flat/satin black, and the top portion body color to make the hood look squared off and the "slit" opening to the bulbs would blend well with the rectangular intercooler opening and the somewhat rectangular signal/fog lights, as well as the overall edgey design of the sheetmetal. again, just my opinion

The GT series of turbos from Garret are all viewable at Garret's site and have a downloadable PDF file with their dimensions, options and compressor maps. The turbos have excellent spool characterists for a given engine displacement, excellent efficiency and flow output compared to comparable sized turbos of the past. My guys over on the Turbo Buick boards have been jumping up and down on one leg for these things for well over a year.. mainly because Garret doesn't offer them with a 3-bolt type exhaust housing that would be a direct bolt-on for a Grand National. Precision Turbo and Engine and Innovative Turbo Systems have been procurring hybrid turbos mix-matched with the GT series wheels in TA housings and 3-bolt housings to help the GN guys out. I got chance to fondle, i mean handle a GT42 a week ago and its HUGE. I'm opting for a GT40 for my turbo buick engine swap for my Conquest. Should be potent upto 700hp for race trim ;D Excellent choice of turbo, and a beautiful, unique and meticulous piece of work...certainly trophy-worthy and with what grumblings I'm hearing about Turbo Magazine, maybe too good for their Supra-Skyline-Honda anything dosed pages.. with everything else going retro these days, if they were smart they do a recap on the Starion/Conquests since they are one of a handfull of RWD forced induction imports made that had a hand in the then slow-growing import craze.... heck, if only i wrote for a magazine ... could happen ... but its likely to be GM High Tech Performance

Why not use LT1 Edit? http://members.cox.net/massieg/lt1edit.html Yuo should consider upgrading that stock opti-spark to a Dynotech Engineering billet peice or a LT1-LS1 ignition adapater from Bob Bailey Engineering... before it craps out. The hesitation likely is from the tune, but could also be a bad TPS sensor or IAC. Any thoughts on forced induction for it?

i thought, "yikes!", but hey.. its good welding practice.. just try not to booger the filler on

We install a lot of translators for the Buick Grand Nationals, Turbo Trans Ams, LT1/LS1 cars. I had a turbo buick with the translator and LS1 maf. While I had custom chip, the translator plus allowed me to make additional adjustments to both idle/wot fuel and low/high rpm timing. Since with the Buick's the aftermarket stock MAF's calibrations tend to be shotty compared to the OEM stuff, the Translator has been a godsend. Bob Bailey, the inventor of the Translator has been quite a influence in our work. He's also responsible for the Scanmaster, LT1 to LS1 ignition coil adapter, Extender chip and other performance electronics. My shop (www.dynotechperformance.com) can get you guys the Translators and install them if needed. We know both Mike Litcht and Bob and have been dealing with Ramchargers/Mike for many years. Its cool to see some stuff I've been using for a long time pop up for these cars (StarQuests) and make some people happy

the welding isn't bad.. i've seen welding that looks like JB Weld was used instead I think you can get away with using a TIG 175 for that. looks good

yes, those are included.

Yanos, I appreciate the forwarning, but unfortunately after me powdercoating for 2 years everything from sheet-aluminum intakes for 9-second race cars to valve covers and front timing covers for daily driven cars, rims and all kinds of things in between I have NEVER had ONE complaint about discoloration. One of those intakes went to Ken Duttweiler for Reggy West's 9-Second Turbo Buick, that was months ago, and it still looks good. I don't recommend powdercoat on the following: 1. engine Blocks 2. transmission cases 3. brake calipers 4. turbo heat shields 5. exhaust headers 6. intercoolers 7. radiators The powdercoat is a rather thick coating. It actually acts as a insulator in a component that should be radiating or reflecting heat. Under extreme ambient heat, about 400*-500*F it can discolor and peel. However, if your oil or coolant is creating ambient heat in the engine bay that is at 400*-500* your engine is dead anyway. The heat a turbo and exhaust header radiates isn't enough to discolor the powder coat on a valve cover in these cars. In an engine bay, whether the car is in traffic or driving along on the road, the ambient heat in an engine bay is not constant. There is either air circulating from the fan(s) or incoming air through the radiator and from under the car. The clear powdercoat we will use if you want to maintain the as-cast look of a part, or as a top-coat to add a deeper gloss and protection to a part. I'm sorry that your particular experience resulted in discoloration, and/or anyone else you know who has experienced the same problem. However, when the powdercoat process is done properly, and applied to parts that will not face 400*-500*F of ambient heat, then they will last a very long time and look good doing so.

Pricing is for powder coating Starion/Conquest Valve Covers ONLY. For colors: Almost Chrome, High Gloss Black, Silver Vein, Anodized Red, Black Metal Flake, Satin Black, Gloss Black, Semi-Gloss Black, Argent Silver, Red, Blue. Qty - Price $60 for 1-10 $50 for 10-15 $45 for 15+ All payments must be made in full in advance. Turn around time at maximum is 2 weeks. All valve covers will need to be shipping to the following address: Dan Goldstein 127 Albatross Avenue Manahawkin, NJ 08050 Phone: 609.384.4756 No cores are available. All valve covers will be stripped of any existing paint, bead blasted, any impurieties baked out, re-bead blasted, thoroughly washed, then powder coated. All return shipments will be through the USPS. Payment methods accepted: Paypal (copper_trace@yahoo.com), Money Order, Cashier's check, Cash (if in person). Shipping charges: $6/valve cover For any more info feel free to contact me via email or phone: copper_trace@yahoo.com  609.384.4756

I need some opinions or advice on how hard its going to be to get this driver's side front fender support and the radiator support straight again: http://www.g-body.org/temp/d_fender_support.jpg Driver's Side Front Fender Support, notice how its wavy compared to the straight edge of the headlight trim cover. http://www.g-body.org/temp/radiatorsupport_top_d.jpg The radiator support is bent and sorta wrinkled. http://www.g-body.org/temp/radiatorsupport_top_d2.jpg

according to my service manual, you use a flat peice of metal to pry up the cowel starting at the edges closest to the fenders and then work your way in and around. I used a trim clip retainer removal tool, however, the center part of my cowl wasn't very forgiving and it almost cracked all the way through. I'll be busting out the plastic epoxy :-/

yeah, i know how it goes. working for a performance fabrication shop, we'll do walk-in stuff... like if you came in and wanted a new stainless header, we'd do it.. but right now we mass produce custom stuff for mostly grand nationals. we do a bunch of custom one-off products for people with specialized applications. Just depends on time and money.

Anyone know if the plastic retainer clips that hold the black cowl in place are still available? This is the black veined peice of plastic that runs along the base of the front windshield.