shift1313

did you every try grounding the black wire on your knock box(right next to those solenoids?). I will send you those ecus(probably saturday). Im not sure if its new policy or something but it only lets me send 1 pm a day and yours just happen to be the second one i got to:( You want me to send both the auto and manual ecu? couldnt hurt right? Im going to hook up my spare manual ecu in my car and make sure it starts before i send it down your way. Ill shoot you a PM when its in the mail.

Tim, a little off topic but along the same lines, can you get cam shafts ground with oversized bearing surfaces? say the cam journal surface is messed up on cam/head. is there a way around it? Curious:) thanks

You know I still cant get over the mentality on this board some times. I have been a part of this board for many years and I see this all the time. There is nothing wrong with trying to modify the stock ecu and for people to say its a waste of time or meaningless just isnt helpful. At the very least the knowledge of knowing the factory fuel curve is very helpful. One thing about my stock ecu/injector setup is the mpg calculator, gals used etc. This has held me back from going MPI for some time because i want to keep that functionality. Having different options when you decide to modify your car is the best thing for us. Look at companies that have made parts for these cars. They can sell people reprogrammed ROMs for $300 that do what? nobody knows. Or $1000 for an intake manifold because it was the only one out there(tep cannon) 8 years ago. I think there is plenty of potential out there for this idea. And if you dont have any valuable input or willingness to help guide it along I think the negativity should be left out. I can probably count a dozen members that have been badgered off the boards for their ideas/mods to their cars. Attitudes like that are the reason i spend very limited time on these boards. chrisviper, thats great. from what i understood the 3d map is the fuel(ve table). The others are modifiers based on other inputs. Without the bench setup, or tracing pinouts it would be hard to decipher but probably do able. Do you need anything for your bench setup? what ecu did that data come from?

just let me know what you want to do and when:)

lighter. The caliper weight makes up the difference. Of course my plate is overkill so everything probably evens out. Im sure with evo rotors and other calipers you could come in under stock weight. I know i said it in here somewhere but i like the design of the 4 lug hub better than the 5. I really dont see a huge benefit to the 5 lug on these cars, other than having the 16" rims. One other option for this brake upgrade is to have custom hubs made. I could draw one up that used wilwood rotors(no need for a rotor hat) but the cost would be a bit much.

i remember a car awhile back that did that(drag car). Its amazing that the member got shunned off the board. I hope that doesnt happen to you. Are you going to leave them open at the door as a vent? widen the door? rears also?

i built one years ago, im sure the post is burried somewhere that kept the shifter length the same(actually raised it up 1") but reduced the throw(patra should like that). i built a 1" spacer to go between the mounting plate(3bolt) moving the shifter pivot up 1". It was just a piece of aluminum tubing that i ran a ball end mill down at 120degree increments so the mounting bolts would go outside so tranny fluid wouldnt slosh out of the extension housing. I then cut the end that goes down into the tranny and extended it 1". It keeps the shifter the same length but reduces the throw by 1/2(not 1/2", 1/2 of the stock throw). I wanted to say it was 4" between gears. I cant find the pics right now.

i forgot to add more pics awhile back. big brake upgrade, i drew and made the brackets, nsx rotors blah blah http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/Brake%20Conversion/CaliperFront.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/Brake%20Conversion/CaliperRim.jpg added an ic http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/EngineBayIC1.jpg i made custom brackets to mount the ic up higher and at an angle so it didnt hang below the air dam. relocated the stock coolant overflow and moved the oil cooler behind the hood latch brace. http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/P6230015.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/intercoolerinstall1.jpg i still have to build another motor(in the slow works) for the car then i plan on making a rear brake upgrade and doing some suspension work before onto the body/paint.

some great attention to detail there! Id really like to see you put cab vents back on the red one(im assuming they are pop in panels right?). and i know ive seen a good vid or two of that white car floating around:) great work!!

got a few offers! no longer needed, thanks

I need the metal brackets that bolt to the block if anyone has a set laying around. thanks

sorry, dont have any

not to jack the thread but if he doesnt have the flange you need i have one extra i made but never used. shoot me a pm.

ill look through my box o parts. I know i had a ton of the rubber parts so there has to be a few washers right

those cars do look great. i guess be glad it wasnt a v8 car, those were plagued with problems right? have fun

Wow that thing is looking good chip. You mentioned a body lift, those things actually have a frame? You also said driving around DC, are you heading back to the east coast?

beautiful car!

Not my truck but i spent the last year building it for my cousin and Im happy to say i handed off to him last weekend to take to the f100 nationals. Ive never put so much time into something(let alone something that wasnt mine). I had the truck for about 8months total and drop a few hundred hours into it. http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Christians%20Truck/P5030002.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Christians%20Truck/P5030004.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Christians%20Truck/P5020001.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Christians%20Truck/P4120001.jpg this is what i started with. http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Christians%20Truck/Christmas187.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Christians%20Truck/Christmas189.jpg pretty solid truck with very little rust but a lot of body damage. Shaved all the trim and filled body seams. No emblems. Roll pan and tailgate smoothed out. 3/4 drop with disc conversion up front, points ignition eliminated and lots and lots of little things. truck was a 360/c6

been working on this bike off/on for a little while giving it a breath of fresh air:) http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/GPz750/exhaust/Turbo/P4250004.jpg manifold is almost done, here is a drawing i made. http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/GPz750/exhaust/Turbo/TurboManifold.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/GPz750/exhaust/Turbo/P4250003.jpg header changed a little from those pics but basically the same.

just finished up a resto project and im digging into my 68 now:)

nice bike man. I used to spend a lot of time riding MX at Budds Creek before college:( now i just ride trails because there are no tracks around. I see you have black number plates, are you C or D class rider?

Id love to see pics of your brackets if possible. With 300mm rotors they should have been able to put the caliper in the stock location with a small spacer. I was almost able to do that with the 282 rotors but the clearance just wasnt there. Putting it right next to the stock mount is a better option. Im not sure if i posted this pic in the thread somewhere but here is a straight shot of the clearance. http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/Brake%20Conversion/caliperrim4.jpg It looks like the Lancer Evo has a brake offset of 1 23/32 and an OD of 12 39/64 stock. That offset is pretty close to the stock 4 lug offset. Ill have to keep that in mind next time I mess with these things.

i dont think you are going to have the room to move your center piece. Also for you to adjust them are you going to have to loosen the screw inside the fender from the bottom? I dont think you need the groove there. the 3 bolts will keep it from rotating and they arent going to add anything to the clamping setup. Are your 3 studs that come up through the body the same ones you loosen for the adjustment? I think your design is better than the first one but i still dont see a benefit to a 3 piece design.

do you have any pictures of that? the 11.1" rotors i used with the dynalite calipers barely has any clearance. Id like to know what nissan calipers let you squeeze an extra 3/4" rotor in there and how tight the clearance is. What are you looking to do with the handbrake? have you considered two extra calipers, either cable or hyd. you could run a remote master for just the hand brake.

you could also do this with some custom lower control arms:). Your stud will need to be pressed into your plate so there wont be a head on it. If there is it will be a small head that will need a counter-bore. on the bottom plate, whats the reasoning behind the two different sized slots? I think your bottom plate as drawn can be half the thickness.