shift1313

my car is always in storage. past 6 years it has only seen about 2k miles. and about 1500 of that was this year. Thats what you get when you buy a car that sat, you fix one thing and something else pops up.

When you pull the tranny you need to take apart your center console so you can unbolt the shifter. You need to pull the drive shaft, speed cable slave cyl(be careful with the rod as it will pop out, i think i used a few zip tys strategically placed to hold mine in). The top two bell housing bolts can be fine so stretch before you get in there:) You only need the bell housing bolts and the cross member/ tranny mounts. Depending on your exhaust system you may have some stuff in the way. Once its out you can start pulling it apart. Front cover has the input seal on it and two bearings behind it. There is a shifter plate on the back, a heat shield for the ujoint(that just taps on/off) and a rear housing. There is also a bottom plate which is how you would load/unload the gears 1-4. 5-r are housed in the extension. I dont really have any good info pics for you but i do have a spare tranny laying around with a bad 5th if you need help/pics of something.

MATT, i havent seen you around here in awhile. joey, what year is your car,

dont think its still around but starconquerer industries made a 2.3l destroker kit, not that it answers your question. this is what you want http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/11/web/455000-455999/455011_184_full.jpg http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/11/web/455000-455999/455011_186_full.jpg dual sidedraft mikunis, 44mm.

i doubt that, probably just have those jc whitney lowering kits that clamp the springs:)

i think the 924s can be made nice and reliable but you would loose a lot of money on the deal. http://members.rennlist.com/944sandmore/Holbert.htm ps, isnt that what jake ryan drove in Sixteen Candles

i had a single that i sold to another member awhile back so they do exist, just dont know where it came from. I got it from another member with some parts, and someone traded it to him

dave-o just remember only the turbo g54bt had oil squirters for the piston skirts. The other blocks would need to be drilled/tapped to add them. Also the oil pump is different and i dont think the crank is nitrided.

that is the worst looking widebody. It just looks bad:( good luck to the seller.

thats pretty cool! Dave-o, id bet is what an electric pump for a hyd setup. so if he has one in the garage, two underground, where do the two red ones stay?. I guess that doesnt increase his housing tax since no body can tell:)

Its really not that hard to work on and i believe you can get parts. www.drivetrain.com i think had some parts. when i pulled mine i had to make a gasket for the input shaft seal plate and the bottom plate on the tranny because they were on back order. If you can pull the tranny you can at least check the bearings and things. If you find one of the bearings is bad you are only in it for the price of the bearing and gaskets(less than $50). I wouldnt spend $400 on a used tranny that may do the same thing. If you are going to start pulling gears you may need some special pullers but the input side bearings you can get to. I think the output bearing is before 5th/rev so you may need a puller but i cant remember. where are you located?

popping out of gear will either be the input or output shaft bearings with a ton of play(my guess). Ive had this happen in another vehicle, where my output bearing was so loose that it would pop out of 3rd only. input shaft http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/P6020004.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/P6020005.jpg there is a spacer for the front bearing/retainer plate. I would drop the tranny and check the bearings. I dont think a loose motor mount could cause this because your tranny is bolted to the block and nothing should shift internally unless you are flexing the case!!!! The only other thing i can think is if your 1-2 shift fork is worn and not fully engaging those gears.

yeah i mentioned it cause i saw your post about spring rates:)

86 was still 7.5psi, if he is running stock boost you think its a fuel cut? I would say fuel starvation. Maybe clogged filters. how many miles are on the car. have you checked the fuel system?

boosted, the black/pink starion with the pink es rims hurts me soul:( is that your car?

did you switch your springs around while you were cutting?

good to know:)

i was playing around today at work and put some numbers on this drawing in case anyone wanted it. I dont think i posted any numbers yet. http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/Brake%20Conversion/brake2.jpg There should be enough info to create the bracket for your own there. the 3 holes in the center are 120degrees apart so you have enough info there even though there arent any numbers.

mike. i no longer have the vac canister but my heater controls work fine. What instance would my heater controls require the canister? im running from the lowest port on the tb.

stock the perch is above the tire http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/RimClearance6.jpg maybe the coil comes down farther on the mk1 stuff? just a thought.

i think the line on the fpr is for boost(rising rate).

i thought there was a vac pump maybe in the bottom corner by the pass side headlight, and a small vac canister so the cruise always had enough vac to operate since boost kinda kills that.

jimmy do you have or know of a picture of an 87 ecu. because my 84-85 ecus have two boards, the top one just isnt as big as that ecu. Is it only the 87 that has 1 board ? obviously they are different because that one is a printed board, much bigger heat sink on the side for the bjts but i was just curious what the single board ecus looked like http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/ECU/starionecu.jpg

what about the vac pump jimmy? I did mine a long time ago and seem to remember removing a pump as well.

really? ive never had a problem. I removed all of mine, but i no longer have a lot of the clutter in the corner. If you still have your ac lines, abs and all the other crap you need to keep that large one that bolts to the fender wall. I cant see how it would cook the plug wires unless they are routed different than stock because mine arent even close to the turbo. http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/engine%20bay%20location/TurboMani2.jpg