Funky Phil

On all the wheel wells, it looks like some form of badly done pinstripe or somethin.

Im sure your exhaust routing isnt helpful. What condition are the clutches in? If they are allowing excessive slippage they're not helping the temp issue either. A lot of guys that race manual trans cars use Tilton pumps. They have like 1-2hr duty cycles so it would be perfect for your setup. I was gonna use one on my R154 but never got around to it. Way F'n easier than a Diff swap. Then just add a stock SQ oil cooler in there.

Whats going on with the rear fenders. Im having a hard time not coming and picking this up.

Better weight transfer and dist. They say "can", not "will" Doing a burn out "will" wear your tires out A proper burnout "will" assist in a better launch. Speeding "can" result in a crash. So "can" driving the speed limit. They say not to so they dont have to hear people complain when they do it incorrectly. I want the springs to react sooner to sudden changes and assist the shocks.

Just remember, cutting a cam off of a camcard only gets you close. It doesnt define true lobe profile. Only a physical measurement will do that. How old are these HKS cams? How much wear is on them? So you have SOME details from a cam card, or a worn example. When did HKS make these?

The dust boot. Need to know what its actually length is though.

I use FI hose on mine.

repurpose the ABS hose

preload depends on type of driving. It all depends on amount of available shock travel. Street cars generally should have around 30% strut compression up front and 50% out back. This means if the car was sitting on the ground, 70% of the strut should be visible. So if you see say 80%, you have too much preload. Loosen up the spring. My car is setup with 50%. With out correct preload, it throws your cars balance off. I recommend measuring from a constant point (somewhere that wont change with your spring adjustments) to the top of the spring. then start your adjustments. Say your measurement was 10", Id wind it up an inch and see where that leaves you. Leave you shocks set in the middle of the adjustment window. (16-20 clicks. cant remember if they are 36way or not) When you think all four are set, go for a twisty drive with some 0-60 and hard braking. Once preload is set, then play with shock adjustment. Hope that helps.

http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh538/sqperformance/SQP%20transfer/Eng%20Tech/metered%20airflow/metered_ecs_113_zps8f423009.jpg

catch cans (puke tanks) generally offer zero filtering. So your just blowing an air/oil mixture into an open cavity. Most likely its just passing straight through. Thats why they are generally vented to atmosphere via a crappy little filter that gets soaked with oil and clogged over time. It also leaves you with the scent of burnt oil in your cabin. Not awesome for passengers or your clothing. This also allows unmetered air to enter you engine and make the use of applying vacuum to the can unrecommended as just about all the oil going to the can will come right back out. Separators have the baffles and filtering to "separate" the oil from the air so they can be used in a closed/metered system and receive vacuum assistance. Also solves the stinky cabin issue, atleast when your not gobbling taco bell. hope that helps.

pair your springs to your cam profile and exhaust backpressure. Another thing to consider is the weight of your valves and cam timing.

seperators and catch cans are not the same

Mike, the schneiders QUICKLY lose their spring tension. To the levels of stock spring pressure.

Did he check the seat pressure on those springs. Thats where you need the help. Being they are installed .10 taller than advert it will also be lower. Might shim them. Need atleast 100lbs on the seat to keep these heavy valves sealed when using a tight exhaust.

Yeah! Tear it apart and park it next to your non-running conquest.....too soon?

as long as thise steel shrouds are still in there, it isnt eliminated...... What it needs is http://www.toolstop.co.uk/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/6f6c203bfe537dd9741d2dbff2b58585.jpg then

pff, I wanna see Pdawg in a bikini!

you say south west Oklahoma? Would you be willing to travel? Im in Abilene TX and would be willing to meet up.

Thanks, the wheels are Billet Specialties Street Lite series.

http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh538/sqperformance/Funkytoon/Photobomb_zpsos6vu6as.jpg 2 things I have poured a ton of blood sweat and tears into. http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh538/sqperformance/Funkytoon/HP%20Freaks%2010_zpstswcqbey.jpg

Yeah thats a summer street tire. That will be the equalizer.

yeah, 1:1 rise. So it would need to hit 5psi to flow that much.

Boost pressure in indicative of engine efficiency. You NEVER build anything around how much "boost" you intend to run. You do it for the power curve you wish to achieve. You didnt mention tires therefor you are not looking at it correctly. I had a coworker with a new 5.0 GT. From day 1 I said get tires. He instead bought a tune, intake and exhaust. went from 8.5's @ 85mph to 8.4's at 88mph. A year later, I loaned him some ET Streets. All he wanted to do was beat his 8.4. He went 7.60 that night.

stock regulator base psi is 38psi. Less pressure is gonna effect flow rate.