mrb1

You can't put that on the car you will get it dirty

It's on the graph 8) Two runs one at 8psi and 16psi. Details on the turbo here http://www.starquestclub.com/forums/viewto...&highlight=

Hi all, it's been a while since I have posted here. Anyhow Magna MPI is done see pic and dyno sheet below. Next upgrades are fresh engine, fuel pump and re-route cooler pipework to better suit Magna setup. It would seem it may be possible to get 300HP at the wheels not sure, the turbo would certainly flow that I'm just not sure if the stock cooler will flow that much and I don't really want to modify the car any more from original. Notice my "re-heat" cooler pipe going along the top of the radiator I was going to tape it up with that silver reflective insulation tape but I could not get any before the dyno run. Anyhow a good example of where not to run a cooler pipe! But until I re-route the pipe work which will require aluminium welding a new outlet pipe on the stock cooler it will have to stay that way. Anyhow all this will take a while because I have to get the JA Starion track car back on the road first. http://starion.mrbdesign.com.au/images/widebody_magna.jpg http://starion.mrbdesign.com.au/images/widebody_dyno_magna.jpg

Ok thanks for that info. Seems just more everywhere with quite a lot more at the top end, I guess providing of course your turbo has enough flow up it's sleeve to fully respond. I hope to be able to post a before and after graph soon as well.

Hi anybody got a "before and after" dyno sheet with only the mod's required to fit the Magna MPI manifold? Like I mean same turbo and boost, a back to back test? Obviously some cooler pipe work would be different just to plumb it up.

That's because you guys sit on the wrong side of the car :wink: But then you have a lot more room on the turbo side than we do

The EFI Magna (there was a carb model) distributor has NO advance weights and is just a solid shaft. It has a "main trigger" and a "home position" signal. It uses two HKZ101 hall effect devices (or the Bosch equivalent). The distributor was made by Bosch Australia. Not sure where the SDS prefers to be triggered but all the aftermarket ECU's down here trigger off it no problem. It gives a nice square wave output ideal if your converting to an aftermarket ECU. I will certainly be using one on my car when the MPI goes on.

You will find info on the Magna distributor on my web site http://starion.mrbdesign.com.au

Look guys we have been doing this mod for years in Australia and our Mitsubishi Australia made 2.6 heads and Jap heads (all our fully imported 2.6 cars never had jet valves either) don't need the water port mod. Most people here just do there own. We are talking about moding an existing FWD manifold to suit RWD. It's not rocket science. I can't believe you would even worry about this stuff. Get a manifold and do whatever to bolt it on, weld a plate here, block a hole up there who cares :roll: I spoke to Glenn's dad and he said they will get another web site up when they get time.

Product: M&W NTK2000 Uego controller Website: http://www.mwignitions.com Display: Yes, external multi-mode LCD option Datalogging: Built in RS232 to PC, Laptop or PDA. Plus linearized 10-20:1 AFR 0-5V out. O2 Sensor: NTK WB to NB converter: No Price: $825 USD (includes sensor, controller, harness, RS232 cable, stainless tail pipe probe). Optional mutil-mode LCD is $195.00 USD Comments: Pro units. Been around for a long time before all these new guys started. Replacement sensors come tested with cal chip. Proper professional case with proper automotive spec harness and connectors, can be mounted in engine bay. All PC and Pocket PC software free download.

Ok let me know what Magna stuff you need. Mike I can get you a Magna pressure reg no problem. Send me a PM.

I would say where you backed off you were just about to run out of turbine flow in a big way (even with your mildly ported housing). However the numbers look good.

Those numbers are BS at 13psi on a 16G. More info needed guys.

I would recommend a M&W Pro14. http://www.mwignitions.com I have had one on my Starion for about 2 years no problems. It's Pro gear you get what you pay for.

Adam I did however I will have to find where I wrote it down. I think it was 34mm? I remember having to choose an exhaust pipe size for the wategate dump that wasn't smaller than the hole! Have a look at http://www.starquestclub.com/index.pl?boar...;num=1108271806 to see turbine entry pic.

GoFastBeater you are on the right track here the stock TD05 8cm2 housing is WAY too small for the 2.6. Hell even our 2.0 Starion 4G63 SOHC in Australia runs a TC06 8cm2 from the factory. Have a look at my web site on the "turbo" page. http://starion.mrbdesign.com.au You can see on the TD05 graph the turbine exhaust backpressure just keep going up after 4000 RPM. I reduced the turbine exhaust backpressure by 0.5 bar when I fitted the Ralliart TD06-19C. Yes it spools later but boy does it have some top end now. Not worth taking it over 5000 RPM before. The two graphs are a bit hard to see on the web site but if you save them to your computer you can zoom in and they read ok.

It looks like this! http://starion.mrbdesign.com.au/images/RalliartTD06_19Csmall.jpg

Looks good you will notice a massive increase in top end I guess my Ralliart TD06-19C is maybe a 10cm2. It does not have a size written on it.

Booted_one yes I'm pretty happy so far. Not sure it will hold together at 300rwhp I have no idea about whats in the bottom end? Plus I think I am just about to run out of fuel so will go up carefully. Not even sure what fuel pump it has (stock?). Anyhow step by step. Have to buy more sensors for the datalogger! 3" MAF going on soon (only to log not for ECU) so I can get actual VE numbers between TBI and Magna. Interestingly with the restrictions (TBI, etc) it was running about 22 psi at the turbo to give 16 psi in the manifold. JustPaus_88TSi yes I will try and get a torque graph but the run is in 3rd gear not sure how useful that is. Do you guy's think you could get 300rwhp with the stock intercooler?

Ok more progress. HKS EBCIV fitted and boost increased to 17psi and pod air filter fitted (no airflow meter) plus I installed an old Haltech F3 I had laying around. Magna MPI coming soon! http://starion.mrbdesign.com.au/images/widedyno245.jpg Dyno shop is MRC Dyno located in Sydney Australia. http://starion.mrbdesign.com.au/images/MRC_small2.jpg

I added this graph because it has RPM on the bottom. Also slightly more boost. Wastegate hose was relocated to the inlet manifold from the cross-over pipe. This maintains boost better at the top end due to the pressure drop of the restrictive TBI. Note: abrupt roll off at the end is the dyno operator backing off at exactly 6500 RPM not the engine! http://starion.mrbdesign.com.au/images/widebody_mrc_dyno2A.jpg

It is MUCH better than if you can't adjust it! That's what I said. I'm sure the Mazda ECU maps will be spot on Â

I think turbocraft29 has done a real good job and used some imagination! Not trying to be critical of his efforts at all. I just think that you really need to be able to fully map the ECU to take advantage of what he's done. If that can be done with the Mazda ECU via piggy back computers or whatever then fair enough. If not then he is MUCH better off with an aftermarket engine management system.

turbocraft29, looks really good! I can't believe you are wasting your time with the Mazda computer just go aftermaket, Haltech or whatever.

The TC06-11A shown in your picture is the standard factory fittment for Australian 1982-1985 (JA,JB) 2.0 4G63 SOHC Starions. It has the 06 turbine wheel and 8cm2 exhaust housing. As for Mitsubishi's turbo numbering system who knows the logic there? See details http://starion.mrbdesign.com.au click on the "turbo" page. Why you guy's had a smaller turbo on the US 2.6 is beyond me : We only got the 2.0 4G63 SOHC. The 2.0 4G63 SOHC Aussie spec non-intercooled engines are rated at 125kW (167 HP) @ 5500 RPM.