jolyrgr

Leave it to the Japanese to have the musical instrument division "tune" their exhaust note. "...rev idle to redline in just over half a second..." JR

I hate to say it, but I am glad to see a few of the cars attempting to sell for a bit more cash. Every SQ that sells for good money, makes the ones left worth that much more. Maybe one day the cars will once again be worth more as a car instead of a sum of parts. JR

It is global warming......they need to quit burning so many fossil fuels. JR

Sorry this took so long to chime in. the Gm alternator has the capability for 4 wires coming out of the alternator itself. The pics that dstar88 has is what you need. The largest pin on the plug (red in your pic)is the excite wire (stator wire), it connects to the white/green factory wire. The wire right next to that (dark grey)is the one for a gauge, is connects to the white/yellow wire on the harness. The third wire (brown)is for a discharge warning light if you should choose to install one. The large wire that connected to the bolt, still connects to a bolt on the GM style. Be sure to get that bolt nice and snug, but don't over-tighten. If you strip out that plastic disc (insulator) the alternator will ground out and ruin the rectifier or regulator. JR

That is because it wasn't posted. Depending on supply and need, the price is typically between $180-$200 shipped within the continental US. The pricing varies depending on the supplier that I can use. I don't want to have to update the posting every time I get a price increase/decrease. JR

The 6.0mm line is inclused for the PCV to TB line. The 8.0mm line is for the vacuum line that goes from the intake to the air/oil seperator. The 10.0mm line replaces the vacuum line to the charcoal canister. I believe either the 8.0mm or the 10.0mm could be used for the brake booster vacuum line, but I haven't tested it to see if there is too much pull for the line there. The washer pump hose really should use a 4.0mm line, but I have not ordered those yet (too much $$$ tied up in the vac lines this time). The 3.2 could be used, but you might not see the flow you would from the larger hose. If you find more uses, I would like to know about them. If it is a good replacement, perhaps the car kit can be amended. JR

PMs sent

Let me clarify then..... In the 80's and 90's when looking for another set of wheels for your car, a more positive offset was referred to as a FWD offset, because it was the FWD cars that used it predominately. A neutral or negative offset was referred to as RWD for that same reasoning. A lot of "us" that drove and purchased wheels during that time period, still refer to them that way, even tho the styles no longer reflect the same pattern. JR BTW I did vote

The style of a more flush mounting style was more commonly referred to a "FWD offset wheel" at it's inception because only the front wheel drive (for the most part) cars used them. When looking for replacement rims, if you wanted a dished wheel, you asked for RWD offset, more flush...FWD offset. SQ were known as one of the few cars to have a staggered FWD front rim set, and a RWD rear rim. Old habits are hard to break. JR

Let me start by saying, if you like it, good for you. A lot of the "die hards" here are not going to be as accepting, but it is not their car. As far as your statement of proper offset......just because it is the look that is popular, or the factory look has gone out of style, does not make it all of the sudden proper. Proper is what it came with stock, what it was designed for. The whole suspension geometry is designed around a designated wheel offset. In overly simplistic terms, once the engineer in charge of suspension decides what kind of wheel bearing/hub assembly they will use, the offset is calculated to spread the load that the wheel will support, evenly across the wheel bearings. This load includes not only the weight of the car, but also the loads from cornering forces. Changing that measurement is like adding a lever to those forces. Too little offset will shift the load to the outside of the wheel bearings, and too much offset will shift the load to the inside of the wheel bearings, shortening both their effectiveness and life relative to the extent to the change. Move the offset very far from that design, and other aspects of the suspension can be adversely affected as well, often making steering more difficult, and less responsive. In my reading, the generally accepted tolerance is +/- 5mm (about 7/32") before you will start to see the possibility of damaging effects on the other components. /rant JR

NP...I will be on the look out for it JR

If you know where you want it, that should be no problem. Does the Innovate take a standard O2 sensor, or is the thread different? JR

I would go $50 if you can get it to cabot's house. PM me if that won't work. JR

As an example Mark, I can get new aluminized, mandrel bent, turbo back 2.5, with flex, no muffler, no cat., for about $330 shipped anywhere in the US. The cat adds about $70-140, and the muffler is anywhere from $30-$300 depending on the brand and type. For a good condition, used set-up like you have described, I would expect to pay anywhere from $250-$350. If this doesn't help, disregard the post in it's entirety. JR

Best deal on quality lines that you will find. Buy the kit or by the foot.

I don't understand what you mean by a package deal on the other hose. The car kit should cover every vac line in the OEM configuration, other than the high pressure lines. Silicone lines are not recommended for oil or petroleum based liquids, other than the washer fluid hose and the radiator overflow hose. If I can get a car here with an OEM engine configuration, maybe I can get a few pics of the different locations. If you see something that you want to replace, hit me up, and I will find the right size for your application. JR

The HVAC control area is not a true DIN size. Those panels have been used before, but they are going to need some modification. JR

If you were in one of the hotter states, having anything down there to help channel the air thru the radiator is going to be of some help. Missing/damaged airdams is one of the biggest contributor to cooling issues. If you can apply that ingenuity to the rest of the car, you are going to fit in great here. JR

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=106048

I have just received the first (of many I hope) shipment of silicone vacuum lines. These are the same lines that on4now4 was selling in GP form. I have made arrangements with him to buy in bulk in order to have a permanent offering when the members need the lines. In addition, I have purchased a few additional sizes to cover the other lines in the car as well. I am even able to offer a "car kit" that should cover all the rubber lines in a stock set-up. I have about 2000' of hose in various sizes and colors, and if these are well received, I will order more as needed. http://usera.imagecave.com/jolyrgr/star-orion/new-hose.jpg Pricing is as follows: Red, blue and black vacuum hose by the foot 3.2mm----------------.70/ft 6.0mm---------------1.30/ft 8.0mm---------------1.60/ft-----black only in stock 10.0mm-------------1.80/ft-----black only in stock I can also now offer a car kit similar to the ones I had before that will include 33' of 3.2 in red, blue or black 2' of 6.0mm in red, blue or black 1' of 8.0mm in black 2' of 10.0mm in black All for $30.00 All pricing is plus shipping and any paypal fees. All orders will need to be in 1' increments (yes they will be shipped in continuous lengths unless specified). 5' minimum please. you can PM me here or email to http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/1161/myemail.gif.

Makes it look like one of those Chevron cars. JR

Typically the ends of the pipe are flared large enough to slip over the end of the next pipe in the series. Most of your auto parts stores sell some sort of expanding tool to accomplish this. Other than that, you might be better off using a band style clamp. JR

Good job.

That might be true if I had room in the garage for a car.......well, one not in parts. JR

I can tell you right now, if you take this car to a shop for every wear item that needs replaced, you are going to be broke real quick. I don't presume to know your mechanical abilities, but these cars will take a lot of D.I.Y ability to be able to afford to keep it on the road. As basic as things are to fix (thanks to sites like this and 2.6 liter), shops tend to dislike working on these cars, or just don't want to take the time to find the right way to solve a problem. That being said...comparing the Ebay clutch to the one your shop wants to install may not be a fair comparison. They may have a kit that includes more parts, better materials, resurfacing work, service of the transmission, warranties on the work...etc. I am sure there is a generous amount figured in for labor, but you need to take a look at the list of things you are getting for the quote. Now if you do like most of the older (longer term) members here and tackle this yourself, you are going to save yourself quite a bit of money (or be able to invest in a few more repairs) and possibly find a few other things that can easily be fixed while you are working. If you have all the parts you need ahead of time, and maybe a buddy to help, this should be a weekend job at worst, an afternoon at best. There is one member here that can drop a trans out by himself, without a lift, in just less than 30min. With the information on the sites, this job is definitely possible for even a novice with basic mechanic abilities. I say, get a few phone numbers, get a buddy, get it off the ground and get it done yourself. JR