heefner

How much will the plate and flange run? I've got a the G54b and would like to be able to run some sort of auto with a trans break... over drive too but we'll see.

They told me 2k for a set also. A little too salty for me. I'll just stuff another stocker back in. I've got an 00 GT vortech super charger intercooled with Steeda stage 3 suspension parts I'll trade you. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.p...age&img=654 pics are in my gallery :confused0024:

Who do you contact to get the dss axles and how much? I looked on their web site but they don't list anything for a quest that I could see. I snapped the nub off of my drivers side axle yesterday at the track. I've got another stock set but I would only be prolonging the inevitable. http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10088/DSC00008.JPG

You may have to move your oil drain tube to the oil pan rather than front cover, other wise the oil return would have to defy gravity.

Motor and chassis can be separated if someone is interested. I don't have a price, I would guess motor in the neighbor hood of $10k so that leaves $6k for chassis. If you seriously want a price talk to Fred, the seller or I can ask.

Ira died of leukemia or some similar disease. The car is also listed here on SQC also. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=81358 Motor and chassi can be separated if anyone is truly interested.

http://sports.espn.go.com/broadband/video/...89&n8pe6c=2 :eek1bluegreen:

This thread is great. I knife edged my own crank then had it balanced. I think it cost in the neighbor hood of $126. I would do it all over except I would most likely pay someone else to do the knife-ing. http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10088/rebuild_march0004.JPG

This thing has the potential to be a beast!

http://static.racingjunk.com/63/ui/7/70/4304137272762-CHEV-427-SUPERCHARGED-CONQUEST-PROJECT-C.jpg Here are some details; $16,200.00 THE ORIGINAL OWNER OF THIS CAR DIED BEFORE IT COULD BE COMPLETED. THE ENGINE HAS NEVER BEEN STARTED & IS COUPLED TO A TURBO 400 TRANS. THE REAR IS A 9" FAB UNIT AND HAS WILWOOD BRAKES. THE CHASSIS IS A CAMARO BASED SQUARE TUBE UNIT. I WAS GOING TO REMOVE THE CONQUEST BODY AND PUT ON A CAMARO BODY, BUT I HAVE WAY TOO MANY PROJECTS. ALL THE COMPONENTS ARE WORTH ABOUT 3 TIMES THE PRICE LISTED - NOT TO MENTION LABOR. CALL 240-626-9974 IF SERIOUS ONLY. MAY CONSIDER PARTING OUT. Seller Phone Number: 301-829-5048 Seller Phone Number2: 301-829-1500 This item is USED Trades ACCEPTED: WILLING TO CONSIDER GOLF CART OR 4 WHEELER AS PART TRADE. Its posted on racingjunk.com here is the link to that add. http://www.racingjunk.com/post/1316250/CHE...ROJECT-CAR.html

I may have confused you with the email address... its mtam@fred.net He is asking $16,000 for everything, I'm not sure exactly what "everything" consists of so I'll have to get back to you with details if you are interested.

You guys will most likely remember this car created by Ira. He passed away earlier this year and a friend of mine bought a bunch of his stuff to help the family out. I don't have many of the details about the car but the current owner of the car has all the info on the car. I'm just doing him a favor by listing it here. Any questions can be directed to me or to Fred @ mtam@fred.net Fred is the owner of Total Performance in Mt.Airy MD (www.totalperf.net). To my knowledge the motor has never been fired. Now for the pics. I have a few loaded in my gallery under "project car". Feel free to ask questions http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.p...si&img=1133

That's not true. We had a flatty, 84 I believe that had roll up windows. Right here on the East coast. Car came from NJ.

Wana trade for a mustang?

who tuned the car, do you have dyno sheets?

Want to sell the drag wheels separate?

Yeah sorry, I was planning to go then this weekends weather was iffy at best. I also wasn't sure I would have the car ready. Turns out the weather was awesome, decent turn out and the family had fun. I'll try to give more notice next time. I'm planning to go in Nov to the Presidents Cup (import vs domestic) providing I can get a few bugs worked out.

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10088/IMG_2699.JPG

IMSTAR import race tomorrow Sunday Sept 7. Gates open at 10AM. I'll be there with the quest.

when I drove the car the vibration started off pretty slight after I got on the gas a few times it seemed to get worse. After 5 or so miles I was glad I was back in the drive way b/c even at slow speeds (30 or below) it seemed like a tire severely out of balance. After dinner I went back out to loosen all mounting bolts and make sure everything was happy then re-torque things and found the passenger side diff mount where it mounts to the chassi was only finger tight. Hopefully that was the root of my problem. It's starting to rain here <hurricane Hanna> so I don't know if I'll get a chance to test it before going to the track on Sunday. Hopefully it will hold up for at least a few passes. If nothing else if something breaks it will be easier to diagnose.

No six bolt rear and axles and spindles.

I took it out for a spin after some slow figure 8's and then lit them up with the line lock and both wheels started to smoke at the same time so I think the diff is ok. I just have to figure out the drive line. I plan to loosen all mounting blots from the torque tube back, make sure everything is lined up then re tighten from front to back.

Ok, So I raised both wheels so that they were at ride hight, car running in 4th gear at idle maybe 10mph emergency break set just so that there is a tiny load on drive line. While running I can stop the passenger wheel while the drivers side continues to spin. I let got and eventually the passenger side starts to spin and you can hear some klunks in the rear diff. If I try to stop the drivers wheel the engine dies. I suspect something in the clutch pack is worn, dry or not functioning correctly. Like I said its been sitting for a few years. I did add friction modifier when I added new royal purple gear oil. Is this common? ...I don't however think this is related to drive line vibrations. I have some video I'll post up later.

I ran the car in first gear with the rear of the car jacked up but wheels were hanging. I'll try again tonight with the wheels closer to ride hight levels. ( hope I can scrounge enough jack stands) Is it possible to have the axle flanges out of center if you tighten up the bolts in a weird pattern? I set up the rear a few years ago, ran it and then swapped back to stock sometime after the trans swap. I put new ring gear in pinion on a used diff with new bearings, It was fine when I took it out.

I didn't take the wheels off but it's easy enough to check.