desert_starion

My goodness I didnt even see your post. You are awesome man, what a write up.. Mods need to sticky it up since this is a wealth of info here. I "think" my problem is resolved for now (please read previous post) I had too much draw on the circuit and I mean the ECU fusible link was also getting really hot. I changed the relay and it still wouldnt prime the fuel pump, the fuel pump was not getting enough current. So with the rewiring it is working fine. Both FIP ecu's blink while cranking and ofcourse the Fuel Pump is also working as it should.

Got it fixed Shelby...thanks to all of you Shelby: I run an SX performance EFI Pump which draws 10 amps @ 45psi. I rewired everything to a toggle switch no more running off the relay nor the stock harness for powering the FIP ecu's and the fuel pump. Now I just flip the switch, wait a few seconds for pressure to build up and then I crank. The problem is somewhere in the factory harness which I used to power everything up from. I really do not use the factory harness anyways, as I have rewired everything pretty much and even have a toggle switch for the AC compressor clutch. I am not interested to find out whats wrong with the factory harness either as I am yanking it out completely. Thank You all for your replies. and for those who have this system, I recommend that you also use a toggle switch, I dont trust the factory harness to carry loads for aftermarket pumps (that is if you have one) and use nice wires that are able to carry the load. FIP Computers even Megasquirt ECU's are very voltage sensitive and you want to make sure that they are always getting the req'd voltage. Last but not least USE FUSES EVERYWHERE PLEASE. I dont want anyone melting and blazing up their SQ's

If you can start the engine with starting fluid, I suggest that you hook up the FIP FUEL ecu directly to a good power source and use a toggle switch to turn it on instead of the ignition switch (if you want to, do the same for the fuel pump). Make sure you dont short anything while doing this (disconnect battery) and while cranking the ECU LED should be blinking. If its not blinking then you know that it could be the ECU. If IT IS blinking, then you might be running too rich and fouling the plugs. I have been having the same problem with my setup and found out that the factory harness is not supplying enough power to the ECU and fuel pump while cranking therefor not turning it on. So with a simple toggle switch, I have FUEL pump, FIP ECU and their Ignition Pro ECU all running together directly to the battery (ofcourse inline fuse is a must for each one)when I flip the switch, I wait about 5 seconds for the pump to build pressure and then I crank. It starts right up and runs.

I wired in some new one with a fuse in line.

Well the car used to work like you said: once I turned the key to the on position it would prime, then I cranked it and it would start. While cranking, I would normally see the LED's on both fuel and ign computer blink, but now when I crank the ignition blinks while Fuel does not. However, give it some starting fluid and it would start with the starting fluid, and magically the Fuel computer comes alive and starts working To give you more update, I checked the fuel pump's Voltage and it was low, only 9 volts, while the wires also got really hot, so I managed to make a nice 14g wire direct from the fuel pump to a switch upfront so I can just manually control the fuel pump, then tried starting the car, and it was still the same, but again with some starting fluid it started up and the fuel pump ran alot better, getting nice 12.8 volts in the circuit, car idles as it should. But problem still remains...ofcourse I did the rewiring simply because I thought the fuel pump puts heavy draw on those factory lines and it needs its own circuit with heavy gauge wire, perhaps it was also not letting the FIP ecu's get proper power. But I am still on the hunt for this issue..

Will be getting my set in the mail tomorrow....can not wait to get rid of the sloppiness

It reads 11.8 during cranking. I started checking all the wires and I started up the engine again with the starting fluid, the fuel pump wires are getting really hot.....is it because my fuel pump is going bad?

I will try to make this as short as I can. I can not start my car. I have the FIP fuel and ignition computers in my car and when I put the key in and start cranking, the fuel pump does not prime, the ignition computer blinks, the fuel computer does not (both connected to the same power source) But once I start cranking, the fuel pump keeps running (with the key in the on position and once i turn the key to the off pos. it stops obviously.... I thought that may be due to a bad fuel pump realy, so I got a used relay off a running car, still have the same issue except when I stop cranking, the fuel pump also stops (key at the on pos). What I tried to do then was to shoot some starting fluid in the manifold. Upon cranking the engine rumbles to a start and it is then that the fuel computer and the fuel pump start pumping (40psi on the regulator guage) and car idles normally and its all good. What is really bugging me is why are the fuel ecu and fuel pump unavailable until the engine is started via some starting fluid? Why dont they just come on during cranking?

As long as your LC-1 has an output, I believe you can configure the settings in your megatune software via the configurator, and in the settings you must select what wideband you are using and then it will read it right. I have my AEM UEGO hooked up to the FIP Fuel box and I chose the AEM UEGO from the settings and its working- I can datalogg as well.

funny thing, I was wondering the same...I wonder what he has done to his car by now...

I just started having the same issue today, but a little bit different. I have both fuel and ignition ECU's from FIP and when I turn the key, the fuel pump wont prime, the fuel computer doesnt blink but the ignition computer would. Once I crank the car, the Fuel Pump will prime and if I stop cranking the car the fuel pump continues to pump fuel until I turn the key to the off position. The car would not start at all. But spray some starter fluid into the intake and crank- it starts up and then the fuel computer starts working (blinking). I was puzzled by this...I tried contacting FIP, but no answer yet. I would like to try and see if the fuel pump relay is bad

The temp and humidity should not really affect anything, as I installed hurricane MPI in my car in Arizona originally and had the car transported to florida where it did exactly as in Arizona. You have to tune your car and that means lots of driving time in your case since your speedshops are retarded and do not know that Megasquirt-Megatune is becoming a very big name in standalones. I drove my car for about 300 miles to get a good overall tune. MAKE SURE TO GET A WIDEBAND O2..that is your ticket to tuning without going to the dyno. Do exactly as scott mentioned above. You have to connect the wideband O2 to the fuel computer and make sure that in the megatune settings you choose the right wideband in order for the datalog to be useful. Once you have everything working, datalog a few pull sessions (make sure to start rich in the high boost areas of the map so that you dont detonate, and then adjust the VE according to the datalog)

I just tried intsalling a CS130 alt from Gene and it was bad out of the box. and these are supposed to be brand new not reman. I was very dissapointed but oh well, I put the stocker back on. I still have to go through the wiring because the alternator does not charge during idle. It is only when I rev it up that it begins to charge, but if I let go of the gas the amp meter falls below half mark and the car eventually dies, if its at night, it dies very fast. I have had this issue for a while and I need to get to the bottom of this. If someone could clarify, from what I remember 86's dont have ETACS, but 87's do.?

Woa...thats a great deal...man I thought I was getting a deal....well I guess I have to wait until theirs are gone?

Found these at a Parts store in Jacksonville, they were the last two pair they had so I bought them for myself, however I ended up getting Mookeeh Full coilovers so these must go to replace some of the money spent on the full coilovers. $100 + shipping PER PAIR. Also I will be selling the Original Mookeeh Coilovers to use with stock shocks/struts, $150 shipped, but you have to wait about a few more days so I can get a chance and take them off the car. If anyone needs a pair of tockico HP front inserts, let me know, they only have about 3000 miles on them and I will give you a good deal 80 bucks shipped.

Trying to hook up one of Gene's CS130 Alts in my 86 Starion and I dont know what goes to where, I tried to search but only found wiring diagram for the 87-89. Please help!

I did mine for 175. Has held max of 30 psi, and is been (knock on wood) excellent. I use 8770 felpro as well.

please check your paypal. 450+pp fees sent!

tony's got a bunch of cars and more starquests than anything else....

Haha thats one of tony's cars! lol....

I think the rear was stock in that car...just a richmond tranny

The brackets are welded on the back of the intercooler, you dont see anything from the front, makes you think the intercooler is held up just by the piping! :thumbsup:

Jap Muscle FTW

I wonder how much power they are squeezing from tha subie...

headlight covers are off, look at the pictures I posted just before you posted..they are the primed pictures!