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The_Ginger_Stig

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Everything posted by The_Ginger_Stig

  1. Oh boy. So I pulled out the 2nd rad fan relay (the relay on the right from the group of two relays with rubber shielding behind the horn) as indicated by the FSM here, and none of my fans ever turned on. I got a used but good fusible links box for the head, tails, eci, etc and have all new links in it. The links didn't smoke or even get too hot so that solves the original problem I guess, but now I don't know why the primary fan and AC fan won't turn on. I did discover a massive new exhaust leak though . Did I end up pulling out the wrong relay? I currently have the AC fan plugged in but I had the 2nd rad fan unplugged to avoid running power through it because if it's shorted then it'll probably just burn up the new links right? Looking at the wiring diagram on pg 90 of the FSM it looks like the only way that the "Radiator fan air condition relay (1)" can get power is through the 2nd fan motors connector but some of the other relays should have closed right? To restate: Primary fan and AC fan never came on even after the car was fully warmed up and a bit past half way on the coolant temp on the dash. My primary has never failed to come on at exactly halfway on that gauge so I'm completely stumped. edit: I retried getting the fans to work at all with the secondary fan plugged in this time and without the secondary fan relay and still no dice. Fuse links didn't get too hot with the secondary fan plugged in though. Side note for anyone that needs some NLA fusible links, I actually found some wire on the jungle site. The oem Mitsubishi quick connect terminals are a little bigger than standard sizes so I just ordered a pack of standard size terminals and opened them up and adjusted them. This wire can be used for "green" fusible links, .5mm^2 This wire can be used for "red" fusible links, .85 mm^2
  2. @psu_CrashStill haven't found the issue , just responding to TexasQuest. I'll check the secondary fan as soon as I can. If I'm reading the wiring diagram on page 90 right, it looks like pulling out the secondary fan relay would bypass any power going to the secondary rad fan until the pressure switch, dual pressure switch, or the engine coolant temperature switch closes right? So if I pull the secondary rad fan relay out and the AC fan comes on immediately when the ign swt is turned on it suggests that 1 or more of the 3 previously mentioned sensors might be faulty? However, if I pull out the secondary rad fan relay out and the AC fan doesn't immediately turn on and instead it turns on around the time that the Primary fan turns on, it suggests that there might be a fault in the secondary rad fan relay correct? I'll be checking the resistance of the fan and will update within the hour. I'm terribly sorry if that was too many questions or worded too poorly, I'm battling against time in college right now and I didn't get much time to read through the diagram. I'll drag this car kicking and screaming to a daily driver status but it might take awhile
  3. Good to know. My car never overheated when it was in Washington state but as soon as the Arizona weather hit it's been a constant struggle. Even with that giant aluminum radiator CXRacing makes it still gets hot sitting in traffic. The car only has around 45k miles so I hope it's not losing its head or head gasket, but I've started to doubt anything on these old cars will last another 3 years haha.
  4. Dang that's a good place to start looking thank you. If I measure the resistance between the two terminals would I be looking for super low resistance from a potential short? Since oem replacement motors are around $250 right now would I have a chance at rebuilding it?
  5. update, tested the secondary fan as per the FSM suggests and it's dead. Makes me grateful that it didn't work if only the AC fan almost burned down the car. For anyone else searching for similar answers on why the secondary and AC fan kick on together, their relays are wired together so if one kicks on the other will too.
  6. I have gone over almost all of the grounds in the engine bay and cleaned them a while back but I can try cleaning them again. Do you or anyone else know why the AC fan might kick on when the secondary fan has power? I remember reading something a while back that said something along the lines of them having a fail safe in case the engine was way too hot but I can't find the post nor the wiring diagram for the fans in the FSM
  7. I've been having a ton of cooling problems in the Arizona heat, gauge gets close to 3/4 and I have to panic park and wait . So I figured replacing the secondary fan sensor that was broken (it spun inside the housing) would maybe help alleviate some heat. I ordered a 180 degree thermo-sensor because the goal was to get both of the fans to come on to try and cool it down a little. While I was checking the secondary fan by simply grounding out the connector I noticed something weird. The AC fan turns on (fan in front of the ac core) but the secondary fan itself does not. I thought it was weird but I decided to test it all anyway just to see. After getting the car up to temperature and having the primary fan kick on, the secondary never did work which is weird because the switch should be the same temperature. However, my fusible links started smoking and I immediately cut the ignition and waited a bit. I tried again without the AC fan plugged in and no smoke, but the secondary fan never did kick in after letting it warmup again and having the primary kick in. Is there any place that the AC fan relay and the secondary fan relay are connected? And why would the AC fan draw enough amperage by itself to start overheating the links? My links are old, but I've never had them overheat or smoke before. Any tips and help is appreciated thank you notes on my current cooling situation: cxracing starion radiator (fan grounds are securely bolted into the rad) stock 3 electric fans undertray is currently off and has been because it's easier to work under there
  8. Thank you so much, I haven't actually gotten to putting it all back yet because the "bolt in" cxracing radiator required a ton of modifications to everything to get it in and done right. For flushing the oil can, would it be something universal I could look up or is it starquest specific?
  9. Hello! I just recently got a cxracing radiator to help me deal with the AZ weather and take better care of my poor car. ( driving with the heater on full blast and windows down in 100+ degree weather is not fun ) While moving the intake box and pipe either 1) I disconnected some lines on accident or 2) they were never properly reconnected in the first place by the previous owner which is sadly likely. A) Here is the line that goes into the frame, I believe this hooks to the bottom of the air box because the tube matches the nipple B) This is coming from the Canister on the intake box. ( If anyone knows what this is called I would love to try and find it in the FSM but I can't find any picture and don't know the name ) C) This looks like a drain to the oil pan If anyone has any idea of where these go to all help would be appreciated. I'm sure that their locations are in the FSM but I couldn't find any after searching the Fuel, Intake, and Emissions sections. I'll be working on it all today so if I figure it outIi'll be sure to update.
  10. I believe I have fixed my issue, but I'm not 100% sure yet, I'll post an update when I take it for an actual drive. I was all geared up to try and clock my TPS again so I simply loosened my throttle cable, which lead me to have the idea of trying to rev the engine some to see if it was still doing the weird sputter and it worked completely fine! It seems I had my throttle cable adjusted at an odd angle after the initial TPS/ISC reset and as soon as I got it back into its original position the sputter was gone! I'm off to test if it'll work under actual load because so far it's only been in my garage. edit: everything's working right ๐Ÿ‘
  11. Alright so I tried a TPS reset and magically the weird idle problems have been vanquished! Thank you! However now when I give it any throttle above maybe 30 - 40% it "falls on its face" and cuts out. The rpm won't go any higher than where it was at before the stumble and the engine makes an obviously bad sound, like it's either running waay to rich or lean. I unfortunately don't have an AF gauge to confirm or deny this but that's what my suspicions are anyway. The voltages from my TPS indicate .5V at no throttle and ~4.7 - 4.8 at full throttle. I know you're supposed to be getting a full 5V with the throttle fully depressed but would that really cause such a stumble if it's only off by .2V?
  12. Sorry for posting this in the newbie section, I still can't post in the virtual mechanic ๐Ÿคจ I have a weird idle issue after coming to a stop at lights or stop signs. When going into neutral with the engine ~2000 - 2500 rpm the idle will drop to ~500 - 600 and it after a bit it might go back up to 700 but until I tap the throttle a little it'll stay lower and doesn't quite sound like it's running healthy. I've been able to get around this by just giving it a little gas while braking and then it doesn't have problems keeping idle after I get to a stop. This only happens when using the brakes at a lower rpm or when coasting in neutral. Another situation where the idle drops is when backing out of my driveway in reverse and using the brakes when it's just idling with the clutch in. I suspected it might be a bad brake booster so I tried a few tests that are supposed to tell you if you have either a vacuum leak in the lines going up to the booster or the booster itself, and it seemed like everything was functioning normally. I have some new ( specifically reinforced brake vacuum booster vacuum line ) coming so I can replace the old ones and rule out it being a vacuum line. Could it possibly be something with any of the emissions equipment going bad after 40 years? If anyone has any ideas or pointers to the right directions anything is appreciated.
  13. Of course! I'd hate to have all of you entertain these problems and then never get a thank you out of it, so thank you all for helping Where I am right now however, is that my popups still only go up and have to be manually cranked down. I suspect a failure of the passing control relay in the dash because I've already jumped the passing relay in the engine bay to no avail. Has anyone ever taken one out and know a way to get in through the dash? I would rather avoid pulling the whole thing for just a relay.
  14. Alright so I have my solution for what was wrong with my turn signals for any poor soul who comes along needed to fix theirs. I had previously taken apart the cluster switches (headlights - fog - off) and apparently I didn't do a proper job of assembling them because one of the contacts was misaligned. You could hear the flasher click maybe once or twice but it would never blink the bulbs in the actual gauge cluster. As soon as I fixed my shoddy job in the switches the turn signals worked perfectly so if you have anything like I did going on, check your switches.
  15. So wiggling the stalk doesn't change anything related to the turn signals. I cleaned the ground in the instrument cluster, the one behind the cluster, and found a very badly connected wire running to my ignition switch that i soldered and heat shrunk. It seems the power no longer cuts out in the interior, but the turn signals no longer even attempt a flash. Hazards still flash the turn signals, just not the actual stalk.
  16. The car still runs perfectly normal when it loses interior power. I'm working on getting a new fuse link box and the little sub box because mine are butchered
  17. My hazards work perfectly fine, and I'll try wiggling the stalk to see if that changes anything.
  18. So I unfortunately have a lot of electrical problems in my 88, and it looks like someone else has been in there before. ๐Ÿ‘Ž Known Problems: Turn signals flash in dash once or twice then stop, no lights in the actual turn signals All back lighting in the cluster and HVAC controls cuts out seemingly randomly Occasionally all power inside the car cuts out when you tap the brakes, but comes back after you tap them again(?) If the handbrake is pulled when moving, the interior power problem surfaces very rarely The seatbelt light beeps when the interior power comes back after cutting out Pop ups come up when manually cranked down, but won't go back down Automatic seatbelts will stick in whichever position they were in before the interior power cuts out What I have tried: Cleaning all of the contacts and reassembling the cluster switches Cleaning almost all of the ground points Checked the fusible links box by the battery (mine has been broken but it seems they all have continuity) Cleaning contacts on the passing control relay in the engine bay, the pop up relays in the engine bay, and all of the relays in the tree right by the battery Replaced the flasher with an EL-12 What I haven't checked yet: Passing control relay inside of dash (If you know how to find/get to this please let me know) Cleaning turn signal stalk contacts Replacing ignition switch If you have any pointers/places to look or solutions to anything on this giant list please let me know
  19. Where is the proper place to ask electrical questions here? I have gremlins on a whole different level
  20. I really don't have that much for a real history on mine, but there's a lot of chassis bacon in the front right indicating it was in some type of collision ๐Ÿ‘Ž I just had the bumper off in that picture because I was filling in a crack with a plastic welder.
  21. Posting an intro so I can ask questions in the forums. Currently have a (non) running 88 Conquest, hopefully running soon https://photos.app.goo.gl/UCvn9LGwM4GWvdCo8
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