Martsubishi10

It's good to talk to someone who's familiar with this. I'm very aware of its integration with the ECM Tables. I know better than to fool with sensors. I believe GM made an error fitting this car with Urea injection. It is a rather small displacement diesel. The folks in Europe are doing great with their Holden Cruze running just a dpf. I have 10k on this car, and it has already had a NOX Sensor go bad. Just for the record this is not a short trip car either. a member posted about Cruzetalk forum. Lol they are beyond lame. That is probably the most boring useless forum I've ever joined. Their technical discussion is the online equivalent of your owners manual troubleshooting section. Thanks for the info guys! I expected to get lambasted for posting questions about a different car here, but I know there's a lot of experience here!

Howdy! This is unrelated, but I have the new Chevy Cruze Diesel. I was hoping somebody could point me in the right direction. I am trying to find someone who can bench flash my ECU to remove the restrictive DPF and urea system. I want this car for longevity, and I can't be burdened with a clogged up dpf later when it's out of warranty. Does anyone know who does this kind of tuning? I have a Bosch E47b ECU I have been told this box has encryption to counter reading out all of the data. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Maft still available?

And now I must tell you even though you're not alive. Your car that I inherited, has seen more than a revive. I drive around town with my foot on the gas. You can't miss the turbo if I move up to pass. The engine is powerful, and she likes to break bad. She's got forged Wiseco pistons, and machine work form Dad. Now I like what we've got, and you're hearin' a brag. The car's now on par to be racin' a drag. As soon as she hooks up she gets harder to control. The asphalt she cooks up is her theatrical role. The crankshaft is hardened and spins with the load, to keep those tires screamin' all over the road. The slow Fords are easy to move past, and they could all use a tow. But this car loves to go too fast, and she puts on a show! I love zooming around town just to see what I can do. If the cops catch me speeding it's "how do you do?" The donuts I baked earlier aren't the kind that they eat, and they all drive around Ford's that they know I can beat! My wife doesn't like donuts either, not because of a diet. If she gets in the car now, she's like "Don't even try it!" We both liked buildin' cars, so you know what I'm sayin' Win lose or draw, I'm just ballin' and playin'!

I gotta be honest here. I don't know the guy from Adam, but I bought a used crank and some race prepped rods with ARP bolts for my build. Dad's did the block work for me, and my car is running like a raped ape. I feel fortunate that I didn't get screwed here.

A member posted on here about the braided stainless line from summit, and Earls adaptor to mate the female end to your factory hard pipe. I got it on mine, and it cuts down on slop travel significantly. sorry I don't have the link, but the whole thing cost like 15 bucks. A good mod imho.

@Intercooledflatty That is a beautiful machine! Props from So MD. how can I get a hood like that? The only one I know is the 83 hood, but it doesn't look like that.

Pulled off the stock muffler and welded a Cherry Bomb on. fixed the cruise, and put an aftermarket radio in.

I'm interested in one to 20602. email is kearns546@gmail.com thanks!

How's $25 and shipping sound if you're still interested?

Update: Randy got me straight. You guys weren't kidding. He's the man. It turns out the folks at TEP decked the block uneven, and the pistons were too small for the bore. Randy asked me if it knocked because he was sure it had to since the pistons were smaller than they should've been. It never knocked, but it drank oil. Anyway I got him to set me up with 92mm wiseco's and I found a good crank and bushed rods from another member. It turns out my old crank was cracked right at the base of the main bearing journal and weight section. A everything is great now, and I just finished my initial break in and subsequent oil change. She's got her first 300 miles on her and she runs strong with excellent throttle response. P.S. I was wrong about the 16G. It's a 19C in a bored out MHI housing. I am running 20 psi on a studded head with an Adjusa HG. Many thanks to the know how and skills available to me here!

I'm working on the pics issue. I attempted to set my profile picture from a photo bucket upload, but was told the file was still too big. I'll get the problem solved soon though!

I need the windshield washer reservoir under the battery tray TO 20602. Give me a price and I can pay thanks. p.s. if the AC Compressor has a good clutch I need one too. Let me know.

Howdy, First Id like to give a big thanks to Randy and the rest of the folks at EMS. I am so impressed with your work. My Conquest belonged to my late bro who had it originally built with machine work from Rapetep. They did a horrible job. The block was decked uneven by .007" towards the back and the pistons were too small for the bore. He of course didn't know this so we drove it that way for about 5k before it fin ally spun a bearing. I have it bored to 92mm and a fresh set of wiseco's, clevite 77 mains, BSE, perfect circle rod bearings, race prepped and bushed rods, new Mitsubishi oil pump. The head features an Adjusa hg and all new valves springs and lifters. I reused the camshaft. I admit I winged it but it checked out ok. I am currently running a 19C in a bored out MHI housing with 20 PSI of boost. This car is an excellent daily driver with phenomenal short burst capabilities. I work the night shift in DC so traffic is usually never an issue, and I love blasting up and down the freeway when the coast is clear. This car has been in the family since early 03 amd I intend to keep it running strong and happy.

Thanks for the advice guys. I recently tore the motor down and discovered the #1 rod bearing was spun. It looked like the rod bolts on #1 stretched because I had to use more force than usual to pull it apart and put it back together once I had it out. As far as the turbo seals. I now know it definitely wasn't anything related to the turbo because I recently swapped the turbo into an 88 motor that I got from a parts car. This motor runs good too; considering it has 180k on it and its the original jet valve head. Ok back to my motor. Besides the bearing being spun there were no other tell tale signs to explain the oil consumption. I'm leaning towards the rings not being gapped properly. However the cylinders were so clean I was surprised. (Very little wear ). I think the rings simply were causing the blow by. It did smoke if I let it idle for a while or I boosted . I am probably going to just have the machine shop turn the crank and get oversized bearings. Also I'm getting new rods with ARP bolts, and a new complete hydro rocker njv head. She's getting a new oil pump all new freeze plugs and dowels. I'm going to have the machine shop hot tank and magnaflux it. I don't think It needs to be decked . My pistons looked good except for some slight nicks on#1 at the edge lip area. And yes by the way it was fouling plugs. The funny thing was that it didn't drink as much oil of I stayed off the turbo. OK well if anyone has anymore advice and suggestions feel free to hit me up. Don't be shy to tell me if I'm overlooking or neglecting any important steps. Thanks!

Hey friends, I am starting this thread because I already recognize a wealth of good information here on SQC. With that said I'd like to get down to business. I have an 87 TSI that my late brother and one of my other brothers built together back in 02-03 with some parts from RapeTep- IE the head a supposed super 16G in a bored out housing as well as their "High Volume Oil Pump" they eliminated the BS and had the cylinders bored over to .040. The motor got a set of forged JE's free floating with total seal rings, and a few other extras. I wanted to let everyone know this first so they can get some familiarity with my setup. Ok so here's the rest. The car has always seemed to suffer from HEAVY oil consumption since the build. I compression tested her and I believe (if memory serves) the pressures were all around 130 PSI give or take 7 or 8 either way. Otherwise she has ran like a raped ape. I was baffled by this issue for years to the point where I replaced the valve seals to no avail. I played around with the PCV and the vent in the back of the valve cover. Although those two did significantly reduce the oil consumption but not enough. I was using around a quart every hundred miles. Yeah I know ouch lol. I have steadily noticed a decrease in oil pressure over time partly because I attempted to use 15w40 to counter the oil consumption issue. This also starved the lifters and gradually exacerbated the problem. I never did figure out exactly why this was happening and I suspect the turbocharger oil seals and bearings may have been the culprit, but I'm not sure. The car has always had a turbo timer and there is little shaft play on the turbo. OK enough of the rambling. My older bro thinks he may not have properly gapped the rings when he set the pistons up. Neither of us could be sure. I will be posting pictures here shortly of the motor. I just finished tearing down the block and carefully inspecting as I go. The ultimate cause for me doing this is because the oil pump simply lost its ability to flow as good as time went on. The car began to run really ruff suddenly and the oil pressure would not rise much higher than about 1/3. I pulled her out and discovered number one rod bearing was spun 90 degrees. The cylinders look great, the crank bearings show signs of wear but there are no groves in the crank. Also #1 rod cap appears to have become distorted slightly (oblonged) The reason I'm mentioning all this is because I've never rebuilt any motor yet, and am ready willing and able to undertake this project for the first time. I am very mechanically inclined and I know this is well within my abilities. What I need to know from you fellow SQC'ers is what do I need to know/do with the machine shop for this. I also would aprreciate any recommendations for a good and trustworthy one. I don't mind shipping if I have to. I already know I'm going to have it hot tanked and checked for cracks. As well as have the crank either turned or polished. I am lokking for a build that can safely handle around 300-350HP. Please let me know what are the things I need to know/do to make sure I get a good block and crank back.

I'll second that lol. I always get weary of those "too good to be true" deals but I don't smell BS here

Howdy! I just want to be sure I understand this correctly. You're listing this car with those upgrades included for 2 G's firm? I am interested and I live in Southern MD. I am also curious about where you are so I can figure out the logistics of getting the car here in case I decide to buy it. My only other question is whether it drives and is roadworthy for a trip back? Thanks and let me know! Sincerely : Martin.

Hahaha this is too funny lol.

Thank you!

Sorry to do this but I have to back out. my oil pump died today and I have a click clack valve train and metal I'm the oil now gonna be outta commission for a while. I'll keep you posted!