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Posts posted by obsolete
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On 3/26/2022 at 3:49 PM, TexasQuest said:
Correct. The fronts are or a Toyota Tacoma and I think the rears are for a Toyota Cressida I think?
I think I remember reading that RX-7 rears were pretty close.
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On 3/24/2022 at 5:10 PM, bflann said:
would like the a/c compressor and the hoses, shipped to 32239, if still avail
Hey, just saw your post, sorry for the delay! Yes, I still have the compressor. Which hoses do you need? Feel free to send me a private message.
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Car-Part.com. Just about every junkyard in the country lists their inventory there. And most of them ship. Good luck.
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Search for Carrier. They are still available all over the place and not that expensive.
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Hey, glad to see you're back! Thanks for making these great braided lines for our cars.
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Sorry to hear that, kev. If you sell that car for anywhere near what you have into it, whoever ends up buying it would be getting a great deal.
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Cool. Not in the market, but I love swaps--got a build thread?
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How many do you need? I would contact Steve at https://starquestparts.net/ if you haven't already. Good luck.
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Amayama might be able to get them too: https://mitsubishi.epc-data.com/starion/a187a/mnfg/chassis-electrical/wiring-attaching-parts/34088,34089,34090/
I've had them cancel orders on me sometimes, though. If they list an exact quantity, you know they actually have it. If they just say >1, then maybe. At least when I've run into parts being NLA there, they will update the online listing to say it's discontinued instead of continuing to take orders and refunding them like the US dealers do.
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The fact that it's fine once it's warmed up makes me think that once the ECU gets into closed loop, it's able to correct whatever the issue is by using the O2 sensor reading, and probably adding more fuel. You can verify this by hooking up an LED to the diagnostic port by the glove box. When the LED blinks, it's running in open loop (no O2 sensor feedback) and when it goes on solid, coolant temp is high enough that it's in closed loop mode and using the O2 sensor to correct the AFR.
What's the condition of the injectors in the car? Any chance the primary injector could be partially clogged? Are the injector clips/contacts in good shape? My rule for the clips is that if you don't know how old they are, just change them.
If you were able to "give it hell" on the way home, and it didn't go lean then, it seems like the secondary injector, fuel pump, and fuel pressure regulator are probably fine.
My only other thought is to test the resistance of your coolant temp sensor for the ECU and make sure its electrical connection is good. I think the expected resistance vs. temperature is in the service manual.
And of course, the other stuff that Jimmy and Bill suggested. They are a lot more experienced than me, which is a polite way of saying old! 😜
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Do you have a wideband AFR gauge on the car? If so, what's it reading?
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I admit I don't understand exactly why the wiper motor is behaving that way, but it sounds like both it and the passenger door lock are due for a cleaning and greasing. The old grease just gets thick and sticky over the years.
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I know you said it has spark, but when you say '87, I think faulty knock box (ignitor).
Can you see the needle on the tachometer move when you crank the engine?
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Looks nice, the mud flaps are a cool rare accessory. Good luck with the sale.
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Very nice! Congrats.
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Sorry, I can't remember--definitely 12mm, 14mm, or 17mm...
I could check in the next day or two.
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I was just removing these too recently and I agree that cheap flare wrenches will definitely round off the nuts. I felt the wrench starting to slip and stopped before it did too much damage.
I've had great success with the crowfoot style flare wrenches. They are way thicker and more rigid than a standard wrench. They're not too expensive either, good tools to have on hand.
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I was curious so I found it on the wayback machine: https://web.archive.org/web/19990209132702/http://www.dakota.net/~kolda/drive.html
I agree; goofy.
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FYI, if worse comes to worst, Mookeeh is selling replacement bolts: https://www.ebay.com/itm/253042348223
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I recommend Imgur. I think it meets both your criteria.
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@techboyIt's not all gone. I managed to make it up to page 28 in the archive: https://web.archive.org/web/20200119131235/http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=136464&st=540#entry1579441
@PreludedudeSorry for cluttering up your build thread, looking forward to seeing some posts about your car
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Your experience matches what I've seen with a wideband on both of my stock Starquests. When you get into boost, the factory computer practically drowns the engine in fuel. Neither of them cut out or stuttered when everything else was mechanically sound, though.
What kind of plugs did you use? NGK 7031s are the only ones that have ever worked well for me.
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That's a great deal.
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Well, good news, if you've been away for 15 years, you only missed about 9, because we lost all the posts from the last 6...
It's nice to have the site back up, though, and it's been fun to see old names show up. Welcome back.
Hello From Arizona!
in Newbie Introduction
Posted
That's a nice looking car. Did it have some front end damage?