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obsolete

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Posts posted by obsolete

  1. On 3/24/2022 at 5:10 PM, bflann said:

    would like the a/c compressor and the hoses, shipped to 32239, if still avail

    Hey, just saw your post, sorry for the delay! Yes, I still have the compressor. Which hoses do you need? Feel free to send me a private message.

  2. Amayama might be able to get them too: https://mitsubishi.epc-data.com/starion/a187a/mnfg/chassis-electrical/wiring-attaching-parts/34088,34089,34090/

    I've had them cancel orders on me sometimes, though. If they list an exact quantity, you know they actually have it. If they just say >1, then maybe. At least when I've run into parts being NLA there, they will update the online listing to say it's discontinued instead of continuing to take orders and refunding them like the US dealers do.

  3. The fact that it's fine once it's warmed up makes me think that once the ECU gets into closed loop, it's able to correct whatever the issue is by using the O2 sensor reading, and probably adding more fuel. You can verify this by hooking up an LED to the diagnostic port by the glove box. When the LED blinks, it's running in open loop (no O2 sensor feedback) and when it goes on solid, coolant temp is high enough that it's in closed loop mode and using the O2 sensor to correct the AFR.

    What's the condition of the injectors in the car? Any chance the primary injector could be partially clogged? Are the injector clips/contacts in good shape? My rule for the clips is that if you don't know how old they are, just change them.

    If you were able to "give it hell" on the way home, and it didn't go lean then, it seems like the secondary injector, fuel pump, and fuel pressure regulator are probably fine.

    My only other thought is to test the resistance of your coolant temp sensor for the ECU and make sure its electrical connection is good. I think the expected resistance vs. temperature is in the service manual.

    And of course, the other stuff that Jimmy and Bill suggested. They are a lot more experienced than me, which is a polite way of saying old! 😜

  4. I was just removing these too recently and I agree that cheap flare wrenches will definitely round off the nuts. I felt the wrench starting to slip and stopped before it did too much damage.

    I've had great success with the crowfoot style flare wrenches. They are way thicker and more rigid than a standard wrench. They're not too expensive either, good tools to have on hand.

  5. Your experience matches what I've seen with a wideband on both of my stock Starquests. When you get into boost, the factory computer practically drowns the engine in fuel. Neither of them cut out or stuttered when everything else was mechanically sound, though.

    What kind of plugs did you use? NGK 7031s are the only ones that have ever worked well for me.

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