Turbo Cary

I picked up some sleeve overs recently and want to do a "coilover" setup by modifying my stock struts. I am however confused after doing a lot of reading on the matter. I have an SHP adjustable setup on my car now. I would prefer to do an adjustable shock insert. Ive been reading on the MR2 conversion but still have questions. Do I need to get a set of non SHP struts? Do I only need to buy the threaded rear housings that Mookeh offers? will his adjustable camber plates work with the mr2 inserts? If you had to say what are the best inserts to buy what would they be? I would prefer to do as minimal cutting and welding as possible. I would like to trim the stock perch down for rim clearance and ease of adjustability. Being that many people have gone different routes im confused as to whats the best/easy way to do this.

It should say "herro"

Just picked up gt6 yesterday and damn is it awesome. The graphics are good for the ps3 version, it doesn't have a regular Starion but the 4wd rally one is there as always. Things they changed, no more b spec from what I have seen. Also the modifications have changed so you can buy racing brakes (n/a in gt5) added nitrous, lots of rim choices, some engine mods also changed a little. Performance points take more of a role in terms of races. You can't have this fully built car blasting people off the track but you can still win easily. They have some cool races such as knock down the cone challenges as well as driving the lunar car from the NASA moon missions. Which by the way is awesome. Doing 25 mph on the moon is pretty ballin. If anyone here is on the PS Network add me. My username is WarmCupOfAIDs and my email is L337TurboZ@gmail.com

Color does not matter so much to me as does rigidity and longevity. But if you could color them, I'm fond of the green Tien uses

That is why I would use a z31 box. The z only had two doors.

I was thinking today about wiring in a talk box for the Starion. Basically I would get the computer from a Z31 300zx and wire it in to the car. It would say things such as right door is open, fuel level is low, etc. I would use the dash speakers for sound and keep it separate from the radio system. I see some people do the chime mod but would anyone like to see me do this?

I only used the situation with my shop as a reference to dealing with courts or other people about warranty issues.

I had to put mine together almost like a kit car. Here is my original first running setup This is how it is now

Its hard to say what you should do. As a automotive technician I feel you are 100% right in the way you are handling the situation. I say this because I was in a similar situation. Customer comes to my shop asking for struts to be replaced on a Pontiac aztek. No big deal. While doing the PMA I noticed the right front abs wires going to the hub had been spliced together with electrical tape and wires twisted. Customer was notified and work continued. ABS light was not on when car arrived We offered to try to fix the wires properly with heat shrink and solder. She was informed the light could come on regardless of the repair unless a new hub bearing was purchased. (It was spliced on the part side of the harness, GM hub bearings are one peice with the abs sensor and spindle built in.) Struts were replaced no issues. Wires were fixed at no charge. There was no drivability complaint at all. Four days later the ABS light comes on. She does not call our shop. She does not come by. Instead she goes to another shop where they claimed I broke the wires during strut installation and that BOTH hub bearings were bad with broken wires (900 dollar repair bill) She then takes my shop to small claims court. Claiming 1200 dollars. For her time and repairs etc. This is 8 months when we were served. The manager at the time her work was performed left. So my market manager sends me (the tech) to court to fight it. They claimed I was incapable of performing work correctly, no training, etc. I pulled out my ase certifications as well as u.t.I paperwork showing I had graduated. The judge ruled in favor of them. Simply because my old manager never noted on their receipt that the part was broken before service. The plaintiff even stated she had been informed before hand of the wire issue. All I can say to you is have your ducks in a row if the member becomes a problem. Do you have any warranty paperwork? Can you get fellow members who have transacted with you to give statements as well as purchase dates? This guy claiming its a bad turbo has terrible grammar if you had cut/pasted from the messages. Which also means he probably doesn't know a thing about cars. I think it is good you offered to inspect/repair the product. Its not as simple as a clamp or piece of plastic. There are other things you should ask him too. Did he replace the oil lines? Is his coolant hooked up/flushed properly? Did he run higher than stock boost levels? Does he have other exhaust modifications that could hinder or help performance. When I had GPop shop upgrade my turbo their warranty states oil lines must be replaced as well as new oil coolant etc.

What did he say that made no sense for the plug? Do a search of the forum for the maf t install. I have the same maf t as you but I searched on how to install mine. The manuals you can get off of http://www.fullthrottletech.com

Bought some sleeve overs from him. Good guy to do business with.

Ive had my quest for a few years now and every 6 months I put it on the alignment machine at work to straighten things up. Here's the issue Ive always had. Rear toe I can't get in spec. LR goes into spec but not the RR. RR toe is at .43 LR goes between -0.20ish to .50ish. So I can get the rear toe even but not within spec. Tires are not wearing bad in the rear either. What kind of toe are y'all running? I don't think my CA is bent I'm pretty sure the bushing is just worn out. When I put my car together I had to drop the rear subframe in order to get the shp struts in. Could the subframe lineup be the issue?

I used to have a 500 HP VG30ET in my Z31. Good engine minus the valve covers and intake manifold setup. Which is why I swapped over to a pathfinder intake manifold with a tb spacer and 240sx tb. I uses rx7 injectors and a larger turbo then tuned with nistune. Nissan v6 engines are good. Just gotta know how to work them

I'll get a pic out of an 87 that's in the junk yard My blower motor is not working now though. Not sure why as its connected. Checked fuses and they are good.

I have an aftermarket gauge on the a pillar. I'll just go without it. But I'm still curious about the relay on the firewall

Hey guys I got the car running today. Malykaii that link helped out a bunch. The B38 connector was the issue. I have everything working minus the boost gauge. The relay that is on the firewall above the booster. What is it for? I don't have that. I have the map sensor still in place. Shelby did a writeup about it but I am still confused. When the car is moving and driveable I plan on taking pics/doing a proper writeup for future reference.

Ok so I got the 86 ecu harness out. 88/89 harness in. I have the ecu plugged in minus the gauge cluster connector. Which is one of the issues. The 88 has a smaller square connector where the 86 has a long rectangular one. The wires for that connector (I'm assuming it is called the B38) I can't find on any of the FSM. Does anyone know which wires I will use and which i will remove? It seems like the ecu isn't getting power. Checked for 5v reference and all. It isn't there. Could this be because of that gauge connector? Fuel pump is getting power during cranking as I hear it. It doesn't seem like there are any differences in the ECI relay or am I wrong? If someone has the ability to call me on the phone it would be easier for me to describe a lot of stuff if I'm not being clear enough on here. All I did to the harness before install was I pulled all the maf wires from the engine bay and ran them into the car so I can have my Maf T inside the cab. Then I ran 3 wires back to the engine bay to connect to the gm maf. I eliminated the egr, sec air, and wastegate solenoid wires. If they were spliced further along the harness I eliminated the splices for those wires. I checked continuity to make sure other circuits remained intact.

How much for the strut housings?

Day by day we sit idly by and let them take our freedom from us..

Do you have the top and bottom portion of the steering column cover in black?

Looking to pick up the Coilovers. How much for shipping to 29445

Thanks for the input Shelby. Here's a few more set of questions Ive found a Magna Distributor on eBay. Will that bolt right in to the head without modification? Or would I need to use a spacer on it like the mighty max distributor? If it can be used I can hook up the hall effect to the FIC. The next question is ignition timing. The fic I can modify ignition timing. Would it be possible to still send an rpm signal to the ecu and use the fic to control the spark? Would I have to remove to modify the knock box to make that happen? Also I am running an older style throttle body. Meaning it only has one adjustment screw unlike the fixed screw. Do I need to swap when going to a different idle control for the 89?

Sounds good. Here's the issue with my harness. Its unmolested as of right now the only thing I have modified is the maf sensor wires to use my gen 1 maf t. The maf sensor had 6 wires instead of the 4 pin 86 wires. It only has one isc plug and Ive pulled the loom apart and have found no wires to suggest it was a 2 plug style IAC setup. The 88 harness I have also hasn't been installed or chopped up. I thought about the coil pack issue as well. I may need to get that crank sensor setup and the coil computer like FIP used to make. That works with the stock ecu if I recall. I could use the mm dizzy but not use spark control with the fic. I checked all the fic wires and essentially it doesn't have coil outputs it just reads the stock parameters and allows you to modify timing. The mm dizzy would only be for a cam input.

I had gone to O'Reileys auto parts to buy new axles. They were the only people to even list them. AutoZone and Advance didnt list them. The axles were special order but when I received them they were wrong. The bolt pattern and spindle was correct. The issue was the bolt holes that mount to the hub. They were off by .025mm or something like that. I tried the axles on either side and same issue. I ended up getting a CV boot and grease kit then rebuilt them myself for 1/4 the cost of the replacement axle.

I plan to use the maf t with the fic8. The fic8 has an internal map sensor I could tune off of and remove the maf if I wanted to. But I plan to setup the maf blow through and use it in conjunction with the fic8s map for a incredibly accurate airflow signal. That is how my buddy did it with the fic8 I have on his 92 3k VR4.