Turbo Cary

I had to put mine together almost like a kit car. Here is my original first running setup This is how it is now

Its hard to say what you should do. As a automotive technician I feel you are 100% right in the way you are handling the situation. I say this because I was in a similar situation. Customer comes to my shop asking for struts to be replaced on a Pontiac aztek. No big deal. While doing the PMA I noticed the right front abs wires going to the hub had been spliced together with electrical tape and wires twisted. Customer was notified and work continued. ABS light was not on when car arrived We offered to try to fix the wires properly with heat shrink and solder. She was informed the light could come on regardless of the repair unless a new hub bearing was purchased. (It was spliced on the part side of the harness, GM hub bearings are one peice with the abs sensor and spindle built in.) Struts were replaced no issues. Wires were fixed at no charge. There was no drivability complaint at all. Four days later the ABS light comes on. She does not call our shop. She does not come by. Instead she goes to another shop where they claimed I broke the wires during strut installation and that BOTH hub bearings were bad with broken wires (900 dollar repair bill) She then takes my shop to small claims court. Claiming 1200 dollars. For her time and repairs etc. This is 8 months when we were served. The manager at the time her work was performed left. So my market manager sends me (the tech) to court to fight it. They claimed I was incapable of performing work correctly, no training, etc. I pulled out my ase certifications as well as u.t.I paperwork showing I had graduated. The judge ruled in favor of them. Simply because my old manager never noted on their receipt that the part was broken before service. The plaintiff even stated she had been informed before hand of the wire issue. All I can say to you is have your ducks in a row if the member becomes a problem. Do you have any warranty paperwork? Can you get fellow members who have transacted with you to give statements as well as purchase dates? This guy claiming its a bad turbo has terrible grammar if you had cut/pasted from the messages. Which also means he probably doesn't know a thing about cars. I think it is good you offered to inspect/repair the product. Its not as simple as a clamp or piece of plastic. There are other things you should ask him too. Did he replace the oil lines? Is his coolant hooked up/flushed properly? Did he run higher than stock boost levels? Does he have other exhaust modifications that could hinder or help performance. When I had GPop shop upgrade my turbo their warranty states oil lines must be replaced as well as new oil coolant etc.

What did he say that made no sense for the plug? Do a search of the forum for the maf t install. I have the same maf t as you but I searched on how to install mine. The manuals you can get off of http://www.fullthrottletech.com

Bought some sleeve overs from him. Good guy to do business with.

Ive had my quest for a few years now and every 6 months I put it on the alignment machine at work to straighten things up. Here's the issue Ive always had. Rear toe I can't get in spec. LR goes into spec but not the RR. RR toe is at .43 LR goes between -0.20ish to .50ish. So I can get the rear toe even but not within spec. Tires are not wearing bad in the rear either. What kind of toe are y'all running? I don't think my CA is bent I'm pretty sure the bushing is just worn out. When I put my car together I had to drop the rear subframe in order to get the shp struts in. Could the subframe lineup be the issue?

I used to have a 500 HP VG30ET in my Z31. Good engine minus the valve covers and intake manifold setup. Which is why I swapped over to a pathfinder intake manifold with a tb spacer and 240sx tb. I uses rx7 injectors and a larger turbo then tuned with nistune. Nissan v6 engines are good. Just gotta know how to work them

I'll get a pic out of an 87 that's in the junk yard My blower motor is not working now though. Not sure why as its connected. Checked fuses and they are good.

I have an aftermarket gauge on the a pillar. I'll just go without it. But I'm still curious about the relay on the firewall

Hey guys I got the car running today. Malykaii that link helped out a bunch. The B38 connector was the issue. I have everything working minus the boost gauge. The relay that is on the firewall above the booster. What is it for? I don't have that. I have the map sensor still in place. Shelby did a writeup about it but I am still confused. When the car is moving and driveable I plan on taking pics/doing a proper writeup for future reference.

Ok so I got the 86 ecu harness out. 88/89 harness in. I have the ecu plugged in minus the gauge cluster connector. Which is one of the issues. The 88 has a smaller square connector where the 86 has a long rectangular one. The wires for that connector (I'm assuming it is called the B38) I can't find on any of the FSM. Does anyone know which wires I will use and which i will remove? It seems like the ecu isn't getting power. Checked for 5v reference and all. It isn't there. Could this be because of that gauge connector? Fuel pump is getting power during cranking as I hear it. It doesn't seem like there are any differences in the ECI relay or am I wrong? If someone has the ability to call me on the phone it would be easier for me to describe a lot of stuff if I'm not being clear enough on here. All I did to the harness before install was I pulled all the maf wires from the engine bay and ran them into the car so I can have my Maf T inside the cab. Then I ran 3 wires back to the engine bay to connect to the gm maf. I eliminated the egr, sec air, and wastegate solenoid wires. If they were spliced further along the harness I eliminated the splices for those wires. I checked continuity to make sure other circuits remained intact.

How much for the strut housings?

Day by day we sit idly by and let them take our freedom from us..

Do you have the top and bottom portion of the steering column cover in black?

Looking to pick up the Coilovers. How much for shipping to 29445

Thanks for the input Shelby. Here's a few more set of questions Ive found a Magna Distributor on eBay. Will that bolt right in to the head without modification? Or would I need to use a spacer on it like the mighty max distributor? If it can be used I can hook up the hall effect to the FIC. The next question is ignition timing. The fic I can modify ignition timing. Would it be possible to still send an rpm signal to the ecu and use the fic to control the spark? Would I have to remove to modify the knock box to make that happen? Also I am running an older style throttle body. Meaning it only has one adjustment screw unlike the fixed screw. Do I need to swap when going to a different idle control for the 89?

Sounds good. Here's the issue with my harness. Its unmolested as of right now the only thing I have modified is the maf sensor wires to use my gen 1 maf t. The maf sensor had 6 wires instead of the 4 pin 86 wires. It only has one isc plug and Ive pulled the loom apart and have found no wires to suggest it was a 2 plug style IAC setup. The 88 harness I have also hasn't been installed or chopped up. I thought about the coil pack issue as well. I may need to get that crank sensor setup and the coil computer like FIP used to make. That works with the stock ecu if I recall. I could use the mm dizzy but not use spark control with the fic. I checked all the fic wires and essentially it doesn't have coil outputs it just reads the stock parameters and allows you to modify timing. The mm dizzy would only be for a cam input.

I had gone to O'Reileys auto parts to buy new axles. They were the only people to even list them. AutoZone and Advance didnt list them. The axles were special order but when I received them they were wrong. The bolt pattern and spindle was correct. The issue was the bolt holes that mount to the hub. They were off by .025mm or something like that. I tried the axles on either side and same issue. I ended up getting a CV boot and grease kit then rebuilt them myself for 1/4 the cost of the replacement axle.

I plan to use the maf t with the fic8. The fic8 has an internal map sensor I could tune off of and remove the maf if I wanted to. But I plan to setup the maf blow through and use it in conjunction with the fic8s map for a incredibly accurate airflow signal. That is how my buddy did it with the fic8 I have on his 92 3k VR4.

I don't have the IAC hooked up. Never have. It runs fine without it. I tried to swap a few of them out but none ever worked. The injectors I run are the L and M injectors.

This is probably going to be very confusing. I will try to explain as simple as possible. My cars production date is 1/86. It would not run with an 86 ecu. I used an 87 for years then went to an 88/89 and have no running issues. Here are the weird issues. I have no pigtail for the wastegate solenoid. I have only one plug for the IAC. My knock box i upgraded to an 89. I have 2 extra wires near the injectors I presume are for the IAT. I also have the black map sensor box on the firewall. I see that 87+ cars do not have that sensor on the firewall just a relay. How does the boost gauge operate? If I disconnect the connector the car runs bad. Can i install an after market map sensor in its place to maybe read better? I have a complete unmolested 88/89 harness I want to put into the car. The car runs fine and I have no complaints. What I want to know is what's different and what I can do to either remove, upgrade, or replace the map sensor box and if I can add an IAT. I have a gen 1 maf translator for a 2g DSM. I run that with a 3" maf draw through. Can I use a gm 3 bar map sensor instead with the gen 1? Do the gen 1 maf translators have an IAT input wire and if so can I setup a gm one to use? Essentially I am planning to piggy back with an AEM FIC/8. I'm trying to setup inputs for it to be able to tune better. An idea I have is to use a mighty max distributor and cap it off. Use the signal for the fic but was wondering if the factory ecu can read it as well. Or should I try to use the fic to tell the ecu the rpm. Would I have to remove the knock box for this or keep it as well? I appreciate the time for you to read this and help me in any way

I have an 86 widebody

I read a few posts where it seemed there was no write up on how to do this. Hopefully this will be helpful to someone. I did this today cost me 15 dollars after tax and had definitely helped with the steering quality. Part I used is Moog K9100 Tools Needed Ratchet 14mm wrench 14mm socket 17mm socket 24mm socket Hammer Prybar or long screwdriver Wire brush Grease Raise vehicle. I work at a shop so I had access to a post lift. It can also be done with jack stands but then you would have to take off the passenger front wheel. Loosen 17mm nut on the bottom of the idler arm tube. I took it all the way off and then put it back on a couple of threads for the next step. With that same nut a back on a little use the hammer to tap up on it. After it cant be raised any higher take off the nut and use a prybar or screwdriver to tap up on the bottom of the head of the bolt. I had to do this because it was slightly rusty and wouldnt just pull out. Next there are 3 bolts for the bracket. Use the 14mm wrench and socket to take these off. Then swing the arm towards you and pull the bolt out. Pull the bracket off of the idler arm tube. There are bushings on the top and bottom. Take them out. Use a slim wire brush (I used a wire brush tube) to get the rusty clumpy stuff out of the tube. Use the wire brush on the bolt as well. Get as much rust off as possible. Once the rust was off I put grease on the bolt and inside the idler arm tube. Push the new bushings into the top and bottom of the idler arm tube. When putting the bracket back on the bushings were hard to slip the bracket over. I just rocked it back and forth until it lined up. Push the bolt through and install the new nut on the end. ---side note. The Idler arm comes with 2 bushings, a nut, and washer. I did not have to use the washer--- Then reinstall the bracket by tightening the 3 14mm bolts/nuts. Put the wheel back on if you removed it and lower the car your done! ---Doing this repair has made my steering feel more solid. Its cheap to do and its probably something that lots of people overlook.--- The grease I used was a synthetic brake caliper grease. It lasts long and it came with a brush to make it easier to get it in the idler arm tube

If its an 86 I need the panel that covers the top section of the seatbelt on the door for the passenger side. Do you have that

I think I have an 87 small knock box. No dash hat, I have an extra manifold I stress relieved and started porting but haven't finished that.

Do you think adding a diode to the rpm wire to prevent feedback from the maf t would help?