unforgiva31e

BOOM. Waiting for something like this to happen, sign me up!

1. 96 Jeep Cherokee - So close on this one: put an oil return in the pan, plumb oil and water to the turbo and tune, tune, tune. 2. Quest needs a fuel system overhaul, D2s put on, speedo and e-brake cables sorted out. Also trying to set a mechanical boost gauge in the stock location with a custom-made factory matching overlay. http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/262555_10150254210563495_582873494_7622413_3522674_n.jpg

FijiPhil has a set of tails I almost got, hit him up, he's letting a ton of stuff go right now.

You've actually got to clock both housings so that the center section stays orientated with the oil drain at the bottom. turbo clocking got a ruler? T3: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/monkeymagic/T3flange.gif T4 (doesn't have to be divided): http://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/monkeymagic/T4flange.gif

Autometer has never let me down, I run a full spread in my Jeep; mechanical senders wherever possible, but that's just my preference. http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/61904_426753868494_582873494_5085105_3873017_n.jpg

My link go with a 2.3" change the oil every 50k (it takes 115 mL) consider spraying water/meth That's how I'd do it.

Nice, put me in for a set.

explain your WG (no outlet pipe atm?) and hood mounted...what is that? I am digging the P/S reservoir location.

Most compact set up to do away with the airflow sensor is to get a MAF Translator and blow through a GM MAF. But I'm also thinking that you might fit the air can directly off the compressor inlet, or pipe it way the heck away. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=117483 http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=107897 That should get you started, search MAFT for more. The wiring mods are also well-documented in the 1G MAS FAQ. Awesome project, BTW; love those Galants.

Sure dude, this is the week to do it. I've got nothing but time once I get off work.

Let me know, I'm 'bout to start doubling my questing efforts since I just toasted the Jeep's water pump; can't stand the thought of two questionably reliable rides.

I'll be coming out of Michigan, willing to meet up on the I70 route.

I picked up an analog meter for just that purpose. Additionally, I'm probably less than 10 miles away (Royal Oak); shoot me a PM if you need a wrenching buddy.

Actually: http://www.optimabatteries.com/product_support/faqs.php#productInformation Optimas are a spiral-wound Absorbed Glass Mat battery. Same Pb-Acid reaction, different package. One of the reasons Pb-acid battery performance degrades when they are deeply discharged is because of sulfation. During discharge, the lead oxide cathode and lead anode both become lead sulfate, recharging is suppose to revert everything back to lead oxide, lead, and the sulfuric acid electrolyte. However, once some of the lead sulfate has crystallized, it not easily restored. In addition to not giving you back 100% of the reactants when the battery was new, the build-up of lead sulfate crystals can fill pores in the lead plates, reducing surface area and capacity. Growing crystals can also break off pieces of the anode/cathode (so can vibration), also reducing capacity. Simply put: batteries dislike heat, vibration, and being deeply discharged. The AGM construction of Optimas mainly addresses vibration, their layout may also have a small advantage in thermal management.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs734.ash1/162884_478968863494_582873494_5962622_8226686_n.jpg

I used the PSN birthday exploit to get it. 1) Make a new user on your PS3 (not required but auto sign-in makes this a little easier) 2) Set up an alternate PSN account with your birthday as today's date in the year of the car you want. (1984 for the Starion) 3) Make your main account friends with your alternate. 4) Start the game signed in as your alternate. (accept user agreement, start GT mode, blow through the profile setup) Since it's your birthday, you receive a receipt for a car from the year of your birth. 5) GT5 has three 1984 cars: the Ford RS200, the Starion Rally car, and the Skyline R30 Turbo C. Hopefully you get the Starion. If not, quit the game, delete the save and repeat step 4. (it took me 3 tries) 6) Give the car to your main account through the game. 7) Enjoy

http://www.ridelust.com/wp-content/uploads/633492515165500232-vtec.jpg http://gallery.zzq.org/d/74821-2/crankwalk.jpg http://www.mileanhour.com/files/2010/8/60percentrotarys.jpg

Second to last is the g-sensor for the rear brakes. FSM has testing procedure, they seem pretty concerned with not dropping those. Might help the sale if it tests OK.

Look for this dude on top of the intake. The black barrel in the bottom left is the TPS, this is orientated toward the front when installed in the car. http://lh6.ggpht.com/_DE6W0quWtjY/S6_39XdFjCI/AAAAAAAAT1g/nQ3mHDnLYcc/s800/IMG_7156.JPG Here is the view from the driver's side fender. The second injector is in line with it, just out of view because the picture is straight on. This injector is angled back and toward the driver's side, the second one is angled back and toward the valve cover. http://lh4.ggpht.com/_DE6W0quWtjY/TDJFDMLlK8I/AAAAAAAAWLo/mEcojoJ1cCQ/s912/IMG_8315.JPG These are not the stock pig-tails, you'll probably find colored wires with half-crumbled away rubber boots. Since this seems strongly related to temperature, I'm thinking you should test the coolant temperature sensor. It's mounted vertically into the front of the intake manifold. The two mounted horizontally just below the thermostat are for A/C and the gauge. Test according to the FSM using the procedure found on Page 64. It is strange that this happens under steady operation rather than varied conditions, there should be a reason for this unless it's truly random and intermittent; in which case "when" it seems to happen can be misleading. Next guesses are the single wire (non heated) O2 sensor, on its way out; car flips out as this heats up, cools down, entering and exiting closed loop operation. MAS - not temp related, but lets say a loose connection or wacky signal is only manifesting on your highway cruise. Maybe a dead spot in the TPS, do a sweep test and reset while you are at it. Other than that, we are running out of things that the ECU uses for fueling. Of course none of this matters if the ECU is doing all the right things and you've just got a bad connection at the injectors. BTW, what mods are in place, and do you know if/how the vacuum lines/emissions stuff was changed? Oh, and credit KTD for the pics.

Could be an intermittent open circuit on the secondary injector. I had nearly the same behavior on my 87. Take a look at the injectors and clips, are they cracked or corroded? If you have a solid idle and feel safe driving it, try to figure out when it hits the wall. The injector problem won't be RPM-dependent, it'll be when the computer calls for the secondary injector; this can be down low if you try to launch it or up high, just on the verge of boost if you take it easy. If you peg the throttle once it starts puking, it'll want to coast back down to idle or even stall. If this sounds right you can try to jiggle the harness and if that returns it to to normal, you've got the problem pinned.

The poorly aimed or high beam/unnecessary flood of light is an occasional nuisance. However, last night this dude in a white grand am showed me a whole new level of obnoxious with his crazy purple beams. They didn't look like HID, I'm thinking he pulled it off with blue halogens and a film on the lenses, the color had to be beyond 12000K. First, I sped ahead to get away from him, then he did some passing and ended up behind me (a lane over) so I grabbed a bootful of brake to make the fool overtake. I know he is trying to make a statement, but I have no idea how he could drive with that color, or avoid tickets. It was seriously a danger to everyone.

I could see running the intake or fuel rail coolers and venting the CO2 to the side or anywhere aft of the firewall. The concern with the intercooler sprayer is introducing a plume of CO2 at the front of the car. If it gets to the intake, it will displace oxygen in the air/fuel mixture, and will begin to negate the benefit seen from lowering the intake temperature. I'd prefer water/meth injection over this for the effective octane boost in addition to the cooling effects.

That's a quick photoshop for you: odd perspective. Regardless, I'd go white. http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs388.ash2/66676_438338273494_582873494_5323696_6878962_n.jpg http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs092.ash2/37927_438338288494_582873494_5323697_7742448_n.jpg

The system shouldn't arm if you lock with the key after closing the door.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/D2-Racing-RS-Coilovers-Shocks-Starion-Conquest-NEW-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem43a19c3dadQQitemZ290474180013QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_510wt_939