TexasTieaga

I once had some kids throw an egg at my 2 year old victory red Cobalt at 3 in the morning. Luckily I was still up and I have a super sensitive alarm. I came out with a baseball bat but couldn't find any pumpkins to smash. Washed the car immediately but the egg still left a mark. For my Houston people, Kingwood kids suck. Now... I'm going to sig this quote lol!

Yeah my Balt is light and with an estimated 160 hp it can keep up with those heavy g35's from a roll but sometimes I just want to rip a corner but with no lsd and fwd I have to modulate the throttle like it was glass to keep it from going straight. Pisses me off lol. Oversteer is much more fun. Looking forward to my Star's 52/48 weight distribution (numbers from my light research) and rwd. Weighs just 200 lbs more than my Balt and the power + lsd should make it fun! I wish it revved as high as the Balt though

I know it's an odd question but I'd like to know about the two OEM air dams (that I know about). The one that's flat and the one with the more attractive protruding lip. Or I guess I could say the protruding lip air dam makes the sq look like an fc3s from the front. The "fc3s" lip seems to be the one I see most often and I'm planning to get in the future. I have the flat lip air dam and my grandmother (the original owner of the car) hit a parking stop and broke the ends of the center piece about 15 years ago. I was wondering if it was model, year, model/year specific. I found the Mitsubishi parts sight on here but would to know the correct year or model or model/year to purchase. Example of my air dam but the bottom is way more torn up than mine. The "fc3s" one I want

Ouch.

How much tension should be felt while pulling the e-brake lever? Mine feels limp while in my Cobalt there's quite a bit of tension. Not sure how the lever feels in other cars besides the Balt. Is this a sign of the cable being bad or mechanism stuck? Or can a frozen caliper cause this? I know I'll have to dump a lot of money into the car but I'd like to spend as little as possible and then eventually replace the more expensive parts over time. I'm on a limited budget and a short time scale.

I like it when people look at it and look confused because they don't know what it is. Like my dd Cobalt. It's slammed, debadged, and has 18" wheels. I would stop at a gas station and had people ask me what it was. Even now I go to parts stores to buy stuff for my Star rebuild and they say, "Never heard of it". Now they're waiting for the moment I drive it up there in person or... car.

Got a fuel tank?

I need a fuel tank for my Star at a descent price. All years accepted. Somebody beat me on ebay by 2 seconds. As long as it isn't rusted I can use it. Please respond or PM. Thank you.

No I don't my interior is dark red and would rather keep my console. Do you have a price?

Thanks, went to drain the fuel tank a few days ago and it was so rusted out the surrounding area around the plug cracked and my hand was filled with orange gas tank pieces. Sort of a rare item. Got beat by some punk on ebay by 2 seconds for a new one. Don't want a new one for now, they cost too much. Thanks for the inpute. Others feel free to comment. Edit: Progress so far- Brakes/hubs inspected, cleaned, and lubed Coolant drained (very good condition) FSM & Parts Catalog fully DL Oil changed Electrical connections checked and cleaned (not tested yet. No power source) LSD checked and good Suspension checked and good Thrust shaft/torque tube checked and good Needed- Fill and purge coolant of air Flush tranny, brakes, power steering Refill diff Air filter Fuel filter (anyone know where to find one)? Battery Rear passenger caliper piston/e-brake frozen/stuck Fuel tank/gas line purge Re-cut key (I have to find the "sweet spot" to unlock/lock car) Sunroof rubber for the outside (inside seal is good)

Fuel tank?

You selling the fuel tank by any chance?

Fuel Tank?

Interested in your fuel tank.

Fuel tank?

Fuel tank?

Quick question. Is the 88/89 fuel tank compatible with the 87? If not is it mod-able to fit and work?

Not interested in engine or tranny but are you willing to sell the fuel tank? Some guy beat my ebay bid with 2 seconds left.

Thanks for all the advice guys. Keep it coming. I want to make sure I do this the right way. I'm mechanically inclined and plan to do all the work myself. For example, I had a friend do work on the drums on my old truck and he messed one side up bad, but I just looked at the good side and rebuilt the side he messed up. My dad doesn't know where I get it from (takes him 2 hours to put a shelf together) but I'm rambling. I actually lifted her last night and checked the break lines last night and they're good to the naked eye. I forgot about sticking calipers though. Any advice on how to flush the dif? Also, where's the fuel filter? Any tricks to accessing the oil filter easier (there's hoses and stuff in the way)? Weak valves will be a new sound to me along with the 10 years since I've heard the motor running to add to the matter. I'm guessing it will sound like engine knock (which it probably will be). Sorry for pulling the newb card and asking here instead of "search" but I'm just excited! You guys are a lot of help. Thank you. Also, after 10 years of sitting do you think I'll have to worry about fuel pressure in the lines?

That would be great man. I've been in love with the car ever since I could remember but don't know too much about it because of its rarity. I live on the north side off the tollway by 45. And yes it is an 87 fatty and it is intercooled from the dealership. I'll snap some pics pretty soon for you guys. She's in pretty good shape. Less than 90k miles and a basically brand new turbo from Mitsu installed 2 years before being garaged.

That's always been my rule. If you want to get sticky make sure you're hard... tranny and drivetrain can take it.

I agree with Spoolin88. Once the race is over it's over. I either beat them from the start or toy with them for 5 seconds then destroy them for a short while then quit. And I don't run an opponent I know will kill me. It's too much of a risk.

I know a guy who had a 99 civic 4 dr with a type r swap. It was fun watching him run others and see them shift while he kept going. Last I heard he traded it for a turbo crx and now owns a fleet of them off his gamble winnings at the 1/4 mile strip. Power to ratio is no joke. I'll never forget when my Cobalt got raped by a a Cavy with similar mods. That was embarrassing.

So I just got ownership of the 1987 Starion Turbo that has been sitting in my garage for the past 10 years. It hasn't been started or maintained in any way (as far as I know) in those 10 years besides keeping the tires inflated and the spider webs clear of the interior. Now this car has been garage kept this entire time, but I need help. I plan to have her running and drivable before the year is over. I know I have to change the tires, gas, oil, coolant, trans fluid, and I plan to change the brake fluid as well. Also all vacuum lines and other hoses (braided or not) are still in good condition (flexible, no cracks, etc.) The vehicle was well maintained by a professional life mechanic up until last year when he passed away but I'd like to know if there are any other steps I should take before trying to start her. And yes I plan to clean the gas tank and flush the coolant and tranny. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.