trichard76

i have a ford 302 with a c4 automatic transmission, i have a holley 4 barrel 650 cfm carburetor. the idle is set at 1500 rpms and when it warms up and you put it in reverse or any drive gear its like it chokes it self out. but if i first start it up i can put it in gear with no problem its just when it warms up.

i have a carbureted engine and it wont idle in gear when it warms up. i set it with a vaccum gage and it still doesnt work. anyone have any idea what could be wrong?

i have the c4 transmssion. the bottom hose doesnt kink, i think the problem is the fans. I drove it with the 9 pound cap a while back and when i was driving against the wind it ran just fine, it was when i turned around i was going with the wind and i stuck my hand out the window and the air was barley flowing cause the wind was soo strong, and also my alternator wasnt charging my battery so my fans werent operating at there full capacity. i think i'm going to try getting a bigger fan and mover the transmission cooler on the back side the radiator and mount that 16 inch 3000 cmf fan on the front as a pusher fan because it wont fit on the normal side cause of that front cross bar.

i also noticed, if it matters, that the lower radiator hose goes right under the front cross bar in front of the car and goes like straight up into the water pump,idk if that makes a difference or not but i have that too. I still have to get a new alternator for it because i have a bad diode in the alternator so it slowly and the car eventually dies out cause i dont have enough voltage to keep the msd box powered. i'm still working out the bugs in it and I enjoy driving it because it has outstanding power. also does anyone know what i have to do about the seedometer? do they sell somekind of adapter or anything i could do to make it work? if i have to i'll just run a whole nother speedometer.

yeah i see what you mean. I'm going to have to try some more modifying. I'm going to make the hose go around the alternator then back into the radiator so that I can get all the air out of the top hose and I'm going to get a 16 inch pusher fan that has 3000 cfm to put on the front.

where would i get a straight thermostat housing?

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?app=gallery&module=images&img=4576 http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?app=gallery&module=images&img=4575 http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?app=gallery&module=images&img=4574 http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?app=gallery&module=images&img=4572

i'll get some pics tomorrow.i have a bran new 3 core radiator from summit racing its made for the ford bronco or f150. the hoses do not collapse with high rpms and the water pump impeller is fine and it is turning the correct way. i havent gottin a chance to take it out on the road yet to see if it'll run alright with the new cap i got for it. the radiator is an inch or two lower than the thermostat housing and the upper hose has to go straight up then down into the radiator, the thermostat is working because you can hold the upper hose and as soon as it gets to about 190 degrees it heats up quick. it takes about 30 mins to get to 210 degrees while idleing at 1500 rpms and reving the engine every now and then. i did notice that if it gets to 210 degrees and i kill the engine and wait about 3 to 4 mins and start it again it'll drop 15 to 20 degress that quick with the fans on. i'm thinking about getting a 16 inch pusher fan from jegs that has a cfm rating of 3000. I'll upload some pictures tomorrow

185 degrees

i thought i was crazy putting a supped up 5.0 in my quest but this is just crazy! I've never seen this combination ever. supercharger and a turbo charger... thats like unheard of. when this engine is finally running its gunna be bad tail dude. that combination looks like that engine will implode with all that air. looks like its gunna torque up and just blow into a million pieces. but if it works, you will definitely have the baddest 2.6l ever. hope the best for this project, would like some videos of this in action when its done.

I have put in the 5.0 old school mustang engine into my 1987 quest. I have a 3 core copper/brass radiator with 1 12" puller fan on one side and i have a 10" pusher fan on the other side, dont know the cfm on them but the puller fan moves quite a bit of air as for the pusher it moves air but not much. I have no shroud on them. I cannot put a motor mounted fan because the engine is too high in the car it would hit the hood and only cool half the radiator. I do have a 16 pound cap on the radiator, i had a 9 pound cap and when it would warm up the water would run into the overflow jug and overflow causing the engine to run 210+ degress. i just ran it with the 16 pound cap and it took about 26 mins to get to 210 and the water stayed in the radiator and didnt put much into the overflow jug. thats only running it at idle speed of 1500 rpms WITH a big shop fan on high about 5 feet infront of the car to kinda resemble air flow on the road, of course driving pretty slow. I also have a 185 degree thermostat in it as well. the other day i had the nine pound cap on the radiator and i took it out for a ride, the wind was STRONG. riding about 40 mph against the wind it ran 190 degrees constant. but as soon as i turned around and going with the wind the temp climbed to 210+ in about 3 mins. so i bought a 16 pound cap and ran it just a min ago and it took bout 26 mins to get to 210 degrees. if anyone could help me out I would really appericate it. thanks.

its an 87 conquest. the only wires i cut were the wires going to the digital a/c and the sensors to blower motor. everything else in the car i didnt cut. so if i take the cap off the relay and manually turn it on the windows will work?? Or do i have to run a hot wire from the battery to the jumper wire to make it hot all the time so that it will activate the relay??

ok, so I just swap the 2.6l with a 5.0 302. i dont have power steering or a/c. so my problem is is that my power windows dont work. the relays dont click or anything. i have takin out the digital a/c panel and i cut off the pigtail to make room for my switches for water pump, fans, fuel pump, nitrous. I have the lights control box hooked up and the seat belt box hooked up, i checked the fuses and they are fine, got power on both sides of the fuse. i swapped out the relays and still nothing, there is this sort of jumper wire box thaat has like defogger and p/w but no matter what i do it still dont work. the door lights come on but just the windows dont work. does anyone know the source of this problem? or does anyone have a wiring digram for the power windows? could really use some help cause its like 85 degrees outside and i dont have a/c or and kind of air movement and its pretty hot. If anyone knows this problem could really use the help. thanks

I have a rebuilt 2.6l turbo engine and transmission for sale. the block has been bored out .040 over and it has new pistons. it also has the balance shaft eliminator kit in it. the cylinder head is the non jet valve head, is not cracked, it is brand new. crank and cam are stock. factory turbo was rebuilt and have only drivin the car maybe 50 miles. the only thing wrong with it is the head gasket is blown. I used the cheap one which is the wrong one with the turbo. I have the complete enginne and transmission 5 spd, have 2 trans. one works perfect, the other not sure. but all of it for $500.00 I live in crowley Louisiana zip 70526. I just dont want the engine anymore and I dont have room for it. If anyone is instered in this message me