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Magnesiac

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Everything posted by Magnesiac

  1. ***EVERYTHING IS SOLD*** I sold the last 2 of my SQ's last year and am moving soon. I was cleaning out the garage and a closet, and ran across this stuff. I may catch hell for it but I'm not going to go through the whole list of how much it costs individually. I don't want to ship anything (I just do not have the time). This is a local pick up sale. http://i61.tinypic.com/s661qc.jpg There's a couple intakes, a complete turbo, steering box (that I didn't finish rebuilding - pack of seals comes with it), valve cover, water pump, MAS, a couple interior trim pieces, some new wheel bearings. They are all useable parts in good condition. They are dusty is all. (The Fel-Pro gaskets and chrome valve covers are for a SB Ford - so just ignore those) http://i60.tinypic.com/2eedg8x.jpg There's a set of pretty nice, original, maroon "Conquest" floormats, 2 K&N air filters for 1G MAS, a 1G MAS, a 1G MAS pigtail, sunroof regulator, 6 side marker lights, 2 '86-'87 ignition knock boxes, and some intercooler pipe. http://i57.tinypic.com/hrelc3.jpg There's a new set of 4 CLEAR fog light lenses (these were being made by a member several years ago, I bought them and forgot about them - didn't even unwrap them). New throttle body rebuild kit. 2 good condition fusible link boxes, a full set of brand new from Mitsu fusible links (think it's 2 reds, a green, and a brown, plus the main fusible link as well), TPS sensor, 3 green secondary injectors, 4 black primary injectors, '86 and '89 owner's manuals, '86 center console coin try (has a small piece missing), EGR valve, ISC set up, heater hoses, a few engine sensors, vacuum advance, and a few other things. http://i57.tinypic.com/2n1xfg0.jpg Lastly, this is a new in box rear brake caliper. Think it's driver's side rear. Centric part # 141.46501 - Never used. OK - that's it (I think). If I find more I will throw it in a box. I didn't keep junk. This is all good stuff. Like I said, I don't want to have to figure what it'd cost to ship it all, don't want to sell individually and go to the post office 20 times, just want to sell it all cheap to someone who will use it. If you're interested, and can make it to Jackson, Mississippi in the next 2 weeks, I'll take $200 for the whole thing. (I think I paid over $100 for just the brake caliper.) My number is (361)746-0585 - Don't PM me, I don't come to the site much anymore. Thanks for looking.
  2. For the doors I didn't make the stock holes any bigger, I just removed the stock speaker set up and fitted the 6.5"s in there as tight as I could and screwed them in place. The Alpine's I used did not take up much space as far as sticking out, the center tweeter was flush with the top of the speaker and the mounting depth of the speaker was pretty shallow, so basically the speaker hung over the edge of the factory hole a bit all the way around. I didn't want to hack up the car and I wasn't sure they'd sound very good but as it turns out, it worked just fine that way. I can't say for sure if your RF 6.5"s are gonna fit the same as those Alpines... You're just gonna have to try em out and see. The rear deck speakers just bolted right in place of the stock speakers. I think the stock rear speakers are 6.5" too. Don't forget to go ahead and disconnect those in dash factory speakers. Pass side is easy and driver side is doable just don't get in a hurry.
  3. I thought I was the only one... I was trying to post up some stuff for sale and when I would want to start a new line and I'd hit enter, the cursor would not drop down. Also, I was not able to paste in a copied line of text (for posting pictures). I struggled with it for a while and I noticed that in the toolbar that shows up when you post, at the top left, there is a button that says "toggle editing mode". I clicked on that little fellow and was able to post as normal. I haven't been on much before the last week or so, so apparently some things have changed. I wasn't sure if it was the site or my new computer with this incredibly difficult to learn Windows 8.
  4. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=129972 I had the 1400 unit and did the install like a year ago. I hooked a relay up on mine to trick the headunit into thinking the car was always parked so I could run DVD's while I was driving (no I didn't watch them, just listened to movies on long trips) if I wanted to. Those units work great, and you're right, it's an easy install with the kit. Definitely upgrade your speakers. I put Alpine 6.5" in the doors and deck panels in back then ran a Punch 400 amp and a Punch DVC 12". It's easy to have a really nice system and still retain a stock appearance for the most part.
  5. Sale pending for all remaining. Edit - All sold, please delete. Thank you.
  6. #1 shipped. New owner should have tracking number in PM. #2 sold and ships tomorrow. If there's a picture, that part is still available. All parts ship next day.
  7. All parts that are paid for are shipped. Everyone should have a tracking number. If something is still pictured, it's still available.
  8. All PM's have been replied to. Awaiting PayPal payments. Items bought will ship next day
  9. #1 Sold. Thank You. Shipping tomorrow.
  10. One set of original Conquest floormats. Burgundy color. One seam has come loose on one edge but easily fixable. Slight discoloration towards bottom of mats. Very good condition other than the slight flaws mentioned. You may be able to dye these black, I do not know. They came out of my low mileage Shetland '87. Asking $65 http://i42.tinypic.com/5o752a.jpg Right rear brake caliper... BRAND NEW. Centric part number 141.46501 - Asking $60 http://i42.tinypic.com/jutto6.jpg http://i40.tinypic.com/2v809dy.jpg Owner's manuals from varying years... $10 each 1986 Plymouth Conquest http://i41.tinypic.com/i6h2qb.jpg 1989 Chrysler Conquest http://i43.tinypic.com/a3jfpf.jpg New oil pump - Not sure if this is the high volume pump or not. Brand new though - asking $30 http://i44.tinypic.com/oa0s5d.jpg 2 K&N air filters for 1G MAS and an unidentified MAS (I can't remember if a 1G or a StarQuest MAS) - $40 for the lot http://i42.tinypic.com/1fg1z8.jpg All prices PLUS shipping.
  11. I thought it would save on confusion if I posted each as a number with their description and price. Please refer to number. Shipping not included. Will combine shipping for multiple items. All parts located in Jackson, Mississippi and it's ok to pick up here. http://i40.tinypic.com/v7b5v4.jpg http://i40.tinypic.com/2m7vzeu.jpg http://i39.tinypic.com/3329imb.jpg http://i39.tinypic.com/2ecdyew.jpg http://i41.tinypic.com/2v9aosi.jpg http://i40.tinypic.com/ie2wsm.jpg I am posting these separate to eliminate confusion.
  12. Welcome. I think maybe it was you who was texting me earlier. If you have any other questions about my car, just lmk. Good luck with your search
  13. Thanks to UCW458. It was those relays. Good call. I hadn't plugged the primary one in far enough.... Dumb mistake. Thanks for the help with that. Now I am not out of troubled waters quite yet though.... Now the primary fan comes on as soon as I hook up the battery. No key in the ignition. I even disconnected the wire that goes to the thermosensor at bottom of radiator... Any idea what would cause this?
  14. Cool. I will check those out. Thank You very much. BIG help.
  15. First off I did a lot of searching in this forum before asking this. I did not come across a post where someone was having the same issue as I am having so I am making this post to hopefully get a fresh perspective as to what could be my issue. I do have the FSM but the electrical volume is very confusing to me and hasn't helped me diagnose the problem. Maybe I need someone to dumb it down for me, lol. Thanks for any and all help. I bought this '88 Quest stripped down to just the shell and wiring. I rebuilt this car over the last several years. Since I installed the new engine and hooked up the cooling system I have had a problem where the primary cooling fan will not engage. I even went ahead and grounded out the thermosensor wiring at the bottom of the radiator and that has my secondary fan working fine as well as the AC condensor fan but the primary fan will still not engage. I thought, maybe it's a bad fan motor, and installed another... Same issue. Can anyone give me some ideas on what to check and look for? Is it possible to hook a relay up incorrectly and cause an issue like this? I am a bit stumped.
  16. Thank you very much for the reply. The throw out bearing that I used was the same height as the throw out bearing in my 240mm Competition clutch kit. I checked them against one another. I am fairly certain that the SACHS clutch kit that Orielly's sold me was for the intercooled application. The machine shop that did the work on my engine also machined the flywheel for me and they did remove the dowel to machine the whole face of the flywheel. That I am sure of. It was nice and flat.
  17. What do your plugs look like? If you're burning that much oil, I'd bet they are pretty gunked up.
  18. Ok I am still having issues with this... I adjusted the pedal and rebled as best I could figure out how to do so. I mean some things don't seem correct... Like in the FSM it says that the top of the pedal should be 7.5" from the floor to the top of the pedal... Am I supposed to pull up all the carpet to check this measurement? So how far should it be? I set it for just higher than the brake pedal trying to compensate for the carpet... I adjusted the rod out of the master cylinder to line up with where the pedal is at that point. Nothing I did would bring the thing into spec as tight as the manual says it should be as far as free play. It did help but now the trans shifts fine except for shifting into and out of 3rd gear. I looked at Professor Quests SOS manual 100 times but half the pictures are gone and I can't make heads or tails of any of these adjustment procedures to know 100% what needs to be done to my car. When I built the car, I bought new master and slave cylinders off Rockauto. Again, the car had been stripped by PO's so it had no clutch hard line. I forgot to install the clutch hard line until after I had the engine in, so I had a SS braided hose made at a hydraulic shop and then slipped it in place. Anyway, I have bled this thing so many times. It has never really stiffened up as much as I think it should have. The trans shifts fine except for shifting into and out of 3rd gear. I have been looking around at posts and saw a difference in my clutch slave cylinder's push rod... see below. http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/8356/photo5by.jpg I don't know if this difference would be a factor in my problem or not but the ones in the pictures here are different: http://www.b2600turb...ter & Slave.htm Also, I just noticed that the hydraulic fluid level is diminishing from the reservoir... So I have a leak. From what I'm seeing it appears that it's the SS line itself that is leaking. Almost every line on my car is SS and I've never had a problem. So I guess I'm going to have another line made. I have forgotten what the size of the fittings should be for this, can someone advise me? ****Edit - I've driven the car maybe 25 miles as of this afternoon since I rebuilt it all... I was going to drive the car to a hydraulic shop to see if they could make me a new hose and on the way, on the highway, I felt the clutch slip. I wasn't dogging it. Just barely on the gas at all at highway speeds. I am afraid I may just have to start over with this damn clutch. This time I will get the 240mm flywheel and use this Competition clutch kit that I originally planned to use. Also I noticed smoke coming out of the dash vents several times. Usually when I'd shift from 1st to 2nd. At highway speed, I saw that it was venting something through the defrost vents onto the windshield and that was obstructing my view... Can't tell if it was smoke or maybe coolant from a bad heater core or something... I just got frustrated and put the car up. I don't really know what to do with this thing at this point. Anyway, I still need to know if this is the right rod for a 88-89 transmission and I also need to know the sizes of the fittings for the clutch line so I can have a new one made.
  19. One of my best friends, back in Houston, does the same type job... Works on cell towers. Makes good money but I could never do that. Heights freak me out. Cool pics. Stay safe!
  20. I'd be interested in the flywheel, the pp to fw bolts, the fw to crank bolts, and the dowel. No clutch. I already have a new one. LMK... PM me
  21. Ok... No offense but if the last thing GM designers want is to make one of their cars look like another that's on the road, please explain the HHR... Be realistic. This vette is no different. Granted, they have a good chassis and drivetrain, but you can't tell me they didn't take ques FROM ALREADY SUCCESSFUL designs and incorporate those into this design... And so what if the design was finished a year ago? Does that means they couldn't recycle ideas from other cars? Come on... It's a rip... It's not even done with class. It looks like a car that was photoshopped from several other cars. Just like the HHR.
  22. http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/4877/photo1jr.jpg Sooooooooooo much work.... Waaaaaaaaaaay too much money.... 1 more StarQuest saved from scrap
  23. I know you're trying to sell the rest of the car whole, but I would be interested in the console out of that thing. I need a black console for a manual seatbelt interior. Before you go sending it off to the junkyard (if noone buys it) pull the console out and lets talk... PM me if you want to.
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