akauf

not sure which wire is disconnected but it was either the idle switch wire broken and shorting against the exposed isc motor wire or vise versa. I'll have to re-wire it here soon. between this and my temp sensor wire breaking off in a similiar fashion my cold start is pretty crappy. Still didnt expect tose wires to just pop out like that. I tested the ics and inspected that wiring within the year and it didnt look that fragile then.

the wires to the isc were pulled out of the harness.two were still connected but exposed, another was ripped out and shorting.

http://miami.craigsl...2852059280.html someone posted this in the ebay/craigslist alerts here: http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=127962

A stock evo 9 turbo would spool viciously on a starion. Also there are soooo many awesome upgrade options. why not make an adapter plate and grind out the divider in the hot side to make it single scroll. The 2.6 flows enough that the extra exhaust volume may be helpful. I could see a 10.5 hot side falling dead past 4.5k on these motors.

checking the resistor pack in the morning.

off, on off, off on. this is driving me crazy!!!! the car tends to take a long time to shut off injectors on deceleration if they shut off at all....

damn, I never even considered that.... 8 valves per cylinder.... its what dreams are made of because you know... ( •_•)>⌐■-■ (⌐■_■) you can never get enough head. YYEEEAAAAHHHH!

So since last weekend the starion has been cutting out briefly for some reason. I have a wide band and as the car dies for a moment the gauge displays dashes aka completely lean, no fuel at all. fuel is cutting out for less than a second in most cases and I haven't identified any patterns of it having to do with the car being warmed up or not, rpms, vac, boost or throttle position. However, I'm going to contradict myself a bit here, it doesn't do it at idle and at times under full boost it wont have this issue. Could be a fluke but it definitely doesn't do it at idle. as quickly as it cuts in and out I'm fairly certain its the injectors shutting on and off for some reason. If it were the fuel pump or a clog limiting pressure at times I feel it would be running leaner or going lean more gradually where it is more like a switch. Also when it cuts out for longer periods of time my tach is not dropping quickly or jumping around so I believe the signal is fine and it is not related to the pick up in the dist. Could be wrong though Any thoughts or similar experiences?

yes... go do some wot pulls while staring at your slow and inaccurate gauges. If you wreck into something or wipe out your turbo or bearings you'll know its broken or it was restricting your pick up for sure. ....or just take it easy to work and fix it when you get the chance.

well., since this is such a hot topic I guess I'll spill the beans on my newest project. I wanted a dohc head on the starion and having been inspired by the vw vr6 that utilizes a single head on a v styleish motor, I decided why not two heads on an inline motor. So I built an adapter plate that will allow the usage of TWO sohc starion heads on the same block. I also custom ordered rods 12mm longer than stock to make up for the added deck height from the adapter plate. The manifolds are the trickiest part as the exhaust ports from one head point directly at the intake of the second head but nothing I couldn't sort out with some high temp rubber hosing and epoxy results are soon to follow

FIgure out what the max is that the ecu you are running can support, then buy much larger than you need. Why buy them twice or risk getting the wrong ones when the price difference is small between injectors.

I'm in sepa, I'll tow cheap

Well, realistically speaking that is... If you have an endless budget there are other options.

The 2.4 will out perform the 2.6. Displacement is only as good as the head it breaths through. An earlier torque onset from the 2.6 will be followed shortly by a massive drop. There are better cams, rods, tuning options, valve Train, etc for the 4g6x a well set up 2.4 with accompanying bolt ons IS the end all be all in Mitsubishi 4 cylinders

156mm rods and rev to 8k 156mm rids and billet crank and rev to 8.5k all say Of course u can rev higher on occasion. more comparison from the Evo world: http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/594844-why-i-will-never-go-back-2-0l.html

so it is. I read that it wasn't, i should have looked it up first. I just threw the wheel bearings in because I was already posting anyway.

I need a new center link and wheel bearings.

Is the center link gone?

s13 rack will make onto my docket of s*** to do this summer as well. any idea how much room coil overs allow? I roughly measured about 5.5" with the stock strut. 10.5 +27 is over 6.25". That's a nice bit of extra backspace if that actually does work out.

I pm'd you the same thing that guy just posted 4 hours before he posted. No response yet, did you get it?

7 bolt low comp 2.4 with an hta86 check out the log from a street pull and the graph on page 2 with more load on the dyno. (they match up pretty closely) that thing is getting it from 4k up.

+1 Nakajima Sakae 12 radial engine, 709 kW (950 hp) this engine powered the zero to a 12-1 kill ratio in dog fighting in a car I'd expect those results to double. You'd take down 96% of everything else on the road http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a9/Nakajima_Sakae.jpg/300px-Nakajima_Sakae.jpg It may require a small cowl

I meant that the 12.5 would poke a lot more than 10.5 +27 with a 2" spacer. that's 10.5 -24 as I'm sure you know. For a 12.5 to fit it would have to be -19 offset or lower. That would be equivalent poke to a 10.5 -45. Like your saying though you can mod the perch or make room for more back space but simply having a 2" spacer to a 10.5" wheel doesnt mean it would fit a 12.5 the same way. Now if the 10.5 fit wil no spacer, then its a different story.

10.5 +27 wouldn't clear without a spacer. this car has ~5.5" backspace. so the 2" spacer example doesn't really pan out. yeah, I cant believe they sold right after I came across them. I'm really kicking myself now... thinking about building some double staggered rs's with 4 and 5 inch minimum. I always like the "prima donna" look. white centers polished lips and gold hardware. and mesh is a good look on these cars. anhelos or meisters would allow a good inch more of lip than most any other wheel though...

that lip looks like is a rear bumper valence. On the bottom it has a cut out that would suit a turn down tail pipe on the right side. It looks like it a mkiv jetta gl rear valence but they all have left side exhaust exits.