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ucw458

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Everything posted by ucw458

  1. Out of the intake, right next to the head.
  2. I'm running a GT35 with a T3 to DSM adapter on a ported stock manifold.
  3. Three years in Seattle weather has not done this boat any favors. Almost everything worked when I got it. But as soon as I started checking everything things started to fall apart. Mainly the electrical system. Outboard and trolling motor work great. But everything electrical needs attention just like a SQ. I started by replacing all the plastic switches with metal ones and rubber switch covers. The company that built this boat didn't use marine grade wires or terminals. Almost all of them have corrosion. Fuse panel so corroded I need to replace it. Trolling motor plug fell apart in my hand. There's a couple of non weather proof plastic wire connectors under the console all corroded. Right now I'm at 8 switches and boots, new wire terminals, heat shrink tubing, weather pack connectors, fuse panel, trolling motor connector and dielectric grease. Front panel is all done but the center console is gonna take more work. I don't care if most of the electrical doesn't work when I take it out this Saturday. But I do want the livewells and bilge pump to work. Both of those seem to work when they want to. Once I get these electrical gremlins sorted out this will be a nice reliable boat.
  4. The metal line connects to the intake and heater core so coolant can flow when the heater valve is closed.
  5. You may get uneven cooling to the back of the block. There's a metal bypass line that goes from the water pump around the back of the block and connects to the heater core and intake. That draws coolant from the back of the block to the water pump. Without that the coolant can be somewhat stagnant back there. That could lead to overheating the #4 cylinder.
  6. For the 2 gauges I would use the lighter circuit. Just tap into it behind the fuse panel. That's where my wideband is tapped into. For the pump, run a 12v+ wire from the battery to a relay in the trunk. Then use the stock pump wiring to activate the relay.
  7. IDK how much but you can ask a machine shop. Prices vary depending on location and shop. Take a turbo block and your non turbo block to the machine shop so they get a clear picture of what you want them to do.
  8. Why is your fuel pump on a switch instead of a relay?
  9. 2" hose if I remember correctly. Must be fuel filler hose. IC hose will fail quickly. You only need 4" of hose. Any auto parts store will have it for around $20-25 per foot.
  10. Never heard that. Can't say if it's true or not.
  11. Only turbo blocks have oil squirters and knock sensor holes. But those can be drilled into NA blocks. NA and turbo blocks have dipsticks in different locations but again easily fixed. FWD blocks are very different. Water pump is on the back of the block, RWD motor mount holes not drilled etc. Any RWD NA block can be turned into a turbo block. FWD blocks could be adapted to RWD but takes a bunch of work so they should be avoided.
  12. Kinda sounds like you have an alt that takes an external regulator. Last time I had one with more than 2 wires it was externally regulated. Google the part # to see if you can get wiring info.
  13. Tilt and trim was an option that wasn't purchased. It has the switches for it installed but no hydraulic gear. He opted not to buy it because a 48 hp outboard is easy to tilt up for trailering.
  14. Well 27 is from memory and that could be off a bit. Been a few years since I was on this boat. But it's aluminum not fiberglass so it's heavy for it's size. I should check to see if dad had the correct prop on it.
  15. I'm taking my brothers out on their first boat trip on the 5th. The wife and I may go out sooner. Right now I'm doing some PM stuff like cleaning electrical connections and fixing a loose seat. Everything works but cleaning corrosion off the terminals will make sure it keeps working. Gotta make sure I have good line on the reels too.
  16. Ummm yeah shelby, that's the point. It does around 27 mph with the 48 hp outboard. Any more would be uncomfortable in rough water. The hull isn't designed for heavy chop. I plan to take it fishing and exploring like my dad and I did. Can't pull a skier with it. A small tube would be about all you can pull. In my experience with boats and boat shops I would say this about boats. Freshwater fishing boats tend to be cheaper and more reliable. And they get used more often. People who buy a big fast boat to take the family skiing use it for a year then get bored. Then they rarely take the boat out and complain about repair costs.
  17. I don't recommend the non compressor method for every car. Works on SQs but may not be safe on other cars. For example, a ford escort strut will shoot around 6 feet away when you take the nut off. In any case, doing it on the ground clear of obstructions with you standing to the side is way safer than doing it on a bench.
  18. Greasing the wheel bearings takes 10 seconds. Instead of a bearing cap you have a bearing buddy. It's a spring loaded cap with a zerk fitting. 10 seconds on each side with a grease gun and you're done. I grew up going out on boats. I've worked in 2 boat shops. I understand some people have a certain dislike for them. Those people usually like the idea of a boat so they get one and take it out less than twice a year and complain when they get a big bill from a boat shop. But if you're like me and you will take the boat out around once a month or more then the boat is worth it. Costs less than $50 for a trip to the lake. $24 to get on the lake plus drinks, snacks and fuel. This boat sips fuel unlike others I've been on. I've been to opening day at crowley lake many times. A whole weekend of trolling with the outboard didn't use up the 5 gallon fuel tank. Boats are pleasure items so most shops mark up the part prices 200-1000+%. I watched my old boss on the phone with a customer telling him the new flywheel for his high powered outboard was $1200. I was the one who ordered the part, it cost $90. Boat shops are crooks. Buy your parts online from the suppliers for cheap and fix them yourself.
  19. I've done struts on a SQ without a spring compressor. The OEM springs aren't under much tension on these cars. Just lay the strut down and take the nut off with an air impact. They will move less than a foot when they spring apart. Then use your body weight to compress the spring on the new strut enough to get the nut started. If you don't like that method then use the car as your spring compressor. With the car on jack stands you can put a jack under the suspension arm to compress the spring so you can remove/install the locknut.
  20. Serial cables carry very little voltage. The cable needs to be very short. 5-6 feet max. Longer than that you get signal degradation or even no signal. I found that out the hard way when I tried to program my LC1 with a 10 foot cable.
  21. Well not exactly new. Not exactly new to me either. My dad took his boat with him when he moved from SoCal to Seattle. 3 years later he shows up at my house and gives me the boat. He hasn't used it since he moved. Probably because a bass boat isn't really something you want to take on Puget Sound. My name has been on the title for 10+ years. He bought the boat new in 1988. It has seen ALOT of fishing trips and I have many memories of being on it with him. Now it's at my house only, in my name only. That part is new to me. It's a 1987 Fisher Marine SV-16 GT (16 = 16 foot). 2 livewells, rod and storage lockers, 24v trolling motor and a 48 hp outboard. Not a fast boat by any means but it doesn't need to be. It was garaged all it's life until my dad parked it in a covered space near the Seattle airport the last 3 years. The trailer was pristine before Seattle weather and salt rusted it. Everything works and runs great. Just needs a little cosmetic touching up. http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq352/ucw458/Fisher%20Marine%20SV-16%20GT/Fisher%20Marine%20SV-16%20GT%20%20%20%201_zpscewrgc58.jpg http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq352/ucw458/Fisher%20Marine%20SV-16%20GT/Fisher%20Marine%20SV-16%20GT%20%20%20%202_zpsql1o9skm.jpg http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq352/ucw458/Fisher%20Marine%20SV-16%20GT/Fisher%20Marine%20SV-16%20GT%20%20%20%203_zpsdf5fcd0f.jpg
  22. Exactly. Chokes are for warming the engine up. There is no engine warming up on a track.
  23. Clutch master tends to leak inside the dash. So it can be hard to spot a leak.
  24. I just threw up a little. Can't read the description. First person narrative is annoying.
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