Bill Hincher

never did get your PM >;o)

I have been away a while on personal business, my wife of 42 years passed away from cancer last year so I havent been able to work, so now I have time to create things to occupy my time I took a wideblock R 154 bellhousing I had built and cut it to the right length for the second gen T56 input shaft, I have been assured that all the T 56 input shafts will interchange, so I will build one housing for one sized shaft This will be a direct bolt up, re-using all the original G54b clutch parts so there is nothing to buy but a disc http://www.billsautofab.com/images/t56wideblock/t56wideblock1.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/t56wideblock/t56wideblock2.JPG If you guys remember I built a T 56 adapter for the 2JZ from plans off the internet last year, well I went back and had a couple extra's made at the casting shop and re applied the same adapter on to the wideblock housing http://www.billsautofab.com/images/t56wideblock/t56wideblock3.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/t56wideblock/t56wideblock4.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/t56wideblock/t56wideblock5.JPG I wanted to clean up the old housing because I couldnt use the same drafting tecnique I had used with the R 154, this casting will be created to 'break' in 4 directions instead of 2, this is the way the original T 56 should have been built http://www.billsautofab.com/images/t56wideblock/t56wideblock6.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/t56wideblock/t56wideblock7.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/t56wideblock/t56wideblock8.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/t56wideblock/t56wideblock9.JPG Ribs are sexy. something screamin eagle did without knowing it, he sent me a T 5 trans housing and I saw how it was ribbed and drafted and decided to build the T 56 the same way http://www.billsautofab.com/images/t56wideblock/t56wideblock10.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/t56wideblock/t56wideblock11.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/t56wideblock/t56wideblock12.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/t56wideblock/t56wideblock13.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/t56wideblock/t56wideblock14.JPG I just keep adding and subtracting until I get the desired shape and style I am looking for http://www.billsautofab.com/images/t56wideblock/wideblockT56%20011.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/t56wideblock/wideblockT56%20035.JPG

WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! happy,happy.happy :D

we are not on the same page, if you need to build a custom adapter for the existing Starion rear end and add the extra weight and cost without the added convienence of gear selection, why in the world would you do it? If you need to build the custom driveshaft, why wouldn't you build it for the required rear yoke of your chioce to fit the selected new rear end? I am concerned that the W series trans would not be any stronger then the original k132 trans that came with the car, so I didnt build it in the wide block, the R 154 was built so you could add more HP to the engine without a bunch of money in the clutch

if it comes down to money, I was shocked to find the amount of money to select and build the rear end/ driveshaft was equal to building the engine Its amazing to me that guys only think of the latest and greatest camshaft with no concern of the driveline when you build an intake manifold, you start with the exhaust design you intend to use and then the cam profile and then the induction, you gotta know how much air you can move out before you think about packing the engine full of too much air, its the same with the driveline, you start at the back and work forward now if you are going to increase the power output by 50%, you need to improve the driveline by 60% and if you intend to improve the traction by 50% you need to consider the stress on the driveline Having said that, the cost should be thought out to bring the best flexable design for the best amount of money. A major consideration is the front U joint, the 1350 Dana U jiont is the preffered unit, to select that in the R sreies trans is a couple hundred bucks, where as the same yoke can be had in the T 5 or the T 56 for $50.00,this will help keep the cost of the custom driveshaft to a minimum, the trade off is the disc needs to be custom built, your going to spend between $200.00 to $1500.00 on the clutch of your choice the other consideration is the third member, the Starion unit works but for all the trouble of building a custom rear yoke and it wieghs a ton plus its the wrong suspension for drag racing, consider a third member that you can find a good selection of gears for and build it, thats going to cost the same as the engine build! driveshafts are a science all by its self, understanding the diameter of the tube has a definate formula done to the RPM of the engine compared to the different transmission drive ratio's and a given MPH, its not about 'what fits', they start at $500.00 bucks here But you know? If it aint just exactly what you want, why do it? to accept comprimise and wind up with something you 'kinda' like is wrong, if your gonna go to all that trouble, do it the way you want it done

I had to build a universal remote shifter that would fit both the W series and R series transmissions, so I used as many existing parts as I coould to hold the cost down http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter/remoteshifter57.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter/remoteshifter58.JPG the rotation of the second shaft will be produced from the rotation of the shifter handle while the forward and back motion will be from the handle itself, the reason for that was because I had to have two seperate motion ratio's from the two seperate movements http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter/remoteshifter59.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter/remoteshifter60.JPG the sideways motion through the 'gate' of the shifter can be adjusted by the hiegth of the two pivot points while the length of the 'throw' can be adjusted by the length of the shift arm http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter/remoteshifter61.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter/remoteshifter62.JPG here you can see how the rotation to the right and then to the left works through the pivot pionts http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter/remoteshifter63.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter/remoteshifter64.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter/remoteshifter65.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/remoteshifter/remoteshifter66.JPG

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/liberty%20gear%204G63/libertygear36.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/liberty%20gear%204G63/libertygear39.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/liberty%20gear%204G63/libertygear40.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/liberty%20gear%204G63/libertygear50.JPG

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/liberty%20gear%204G63/libertygear9.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/liberty%20gear%204G63/libertygear10.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/liberty%20gear%204G63/libertygear11.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/liberty%20gear%204G63/libertygear12.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/liberty%20gear%204G63/libertygear13.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/liberty%20gear%204G63/libertygear14.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/liberty%20gear%204G63/libertygear16.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/liberty%20gear%204G63/libertygear17.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/liberty%20gear%204G63/libertygear18.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/liberty%20gear%204G63/libertygear19.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/liberty%20gear%204G63/libertygear22.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/liberty%20gear%204G63/libertygear23.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/liberty%20gear%204G63/libertygear24.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/liberty%20gear%204G63/libertygear25.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/liberty%20gear%204G63/libertygear26.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/liberty%20gear%204G63/libertygear27.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/liberty%20gear%204G63/libertygear28.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/liberty%20gear%204G63/libertygear31.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/billsmercsig.JPG

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/liberty%20gear%204G63/libertygear1.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/liberty%20gear%204G63/libertygear2.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/liberty%20gear%204G63/libertygear3.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/liberty%20gear%204G63/libertygear4.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/liberty%20gear%204G63/libertygear5.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/liberty%20gear%204G63/libertygear6.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/liberty%20gear%204G63/libertygear8.jpg

this is the first casting, I built 3 for testing and machining http://www.billsautofab.com/images/T5narrowblock74.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/T5narrowblock75.jpg I needed to test my pattern work for the length of the bellhousing ( input shaft) http://www.billsautofab.com/images/T5narrowblock76.jpg I needed to test my pattern work for the slave cylinder fitment http://www.billsautofab.com/images/T5narrowblock77.jpg and I needed to build the throw out bearing for the stock clutch fork http://www.billsautofab.com/images/T5narrowblock78.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/T5narrowblock79.jpg

this is a finished T5 bellhousing, its the first one http://www.billsautofab.com/images/T5narrowblock96.jpg It all fits out very nice, I should mock up the engine assembly to find shifter location but I need to finish the work for Dave ( screaming eagle) first http://www.billsautofab.com/images/T5narrowblock98.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/T5narrowblock103.jpg I need to get ahold of Dan at compitition clutch and find the right bearings this week http://www.billsautofab.com/images/T5throwoutbearing1.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/T5throwoutbearing.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/T5narrowblock112.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/T5narrowblock113.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/T5narrowblock114.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/T5narrowblock106.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/T5narrowblock107.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/T5narrowblock108.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/T5narrowblock109.jpg http://www.billsauto...rowblock105.jpg[/img

turbo cam improvement is more towards improving the exhaust side, because you are providing boost on the intake side, its best to improve the outlet ( exhaust) to allow more boost ( input) equal numbers like 292/292 is talking about the duration the cam lobe will keep the valve open, when you see the number 280 ( intake)/ 292 exhaust) you can compare the exhaust improvement but there is a whole lot more to cam design, such as ramp inclination, cenetrline, overlap, lift and dont forget to improve the rocker arm arriangment too I was a suprise to find the importance of the centerline number, it can be from 108 to 112 and that number is what you are working with when you advance or retard, because the cenetrline number reffers to the duration of time the engine is in valve overlap and thats what you are tuning when indexing the cam, don't forget when you have such a long cam chain, you get some movement of the cam index as the engine revs so it is wise to go a bit retarded to get proper indexing at the power ranger of RPM's

no just the 4G63 and EVO everybody wants the T 56 wide block, not the T 5

bendix, bendix. bendex, they are the only way to go, cheap pads are false economy

yeah, that will work with my T 5 bellhousing

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/6G7x/coupler.jpg

I built another batch of rear trans mounts http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motor%20mounts/motormount114.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motor%20mounts/motormount115.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motor%20mounts/motormount117.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motor%20mounts/motormount118.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motor%20mounts/motormount119.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motor%20mounts/motormount120.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motor%20mounts/motormount121.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motor%20mounts/motormount122.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motor%20mounts/motormount123.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motor%20mounts/motormount124.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motor%20mounts/motormount126.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motor%20mounts/motormount127.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motor%20mounts/motormount129.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motor%20mounts/motormount130.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motor%20mounts/motormount131.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/motor%20mounts/motormount132.JPG

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/ben.jpg he did it twice once at the begining of last season at Red Bud and once again this spring at Delta

the center ball carrier is in backwards, they can face either direction but you can see the face is not cut to accept the ring , it has a taper in it putting it in backwards shortens the axle too

IF you are talking about thw C clip on the small part of the splined shaft, you hold it in place with a heater hose clamp and tap it into place like a piston ring installer

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/subtoyadaptor191.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/subtoyadaptor192.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/subtoyadaptor193.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/subtoyadaptor194.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/subtoyadaptor195.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/subtoyadaptor196.jpg

noooooooo my son fell off his motorcyle and broke his shoulder, so I have to run my shop at japanese auto during the day, I take care of my wife who suffers from cancer, then at night after I put her to bed, I work in my shop at night on my projects I built the 6G7x series C 4 trans this spring and the K20a set up,http://www.billsautofab.com/images/K20aGMadapter/k20a27.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/K20aGMadapter/k20a28.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/K20aGMadapter/k20a29.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/K20aGMadapter/k20a30.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/K20aGMadapter/k20a31.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/K20aGMadapter/k20a32.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/K20aGMadapter/k20a33.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/K20aGMadapter/k20a34.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/K20aGMadapter/k20a35.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/K20aGMadapter/k20a36.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/K20aGMadapter/k20a37.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/K20aGMadapter/k20a38.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/K20aGMadapter/k20a39.JPG http://www.billsautofab.com/images/K20aGMadapter/k20a40.JPG then I built the rear trans mounts for the Toy and finished the Sub/Toyota set up http://www.billsautofab.com/images/subtoyadaptor179.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/subtoyadaptor180.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/subtoyadaptor181.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/subtoyadaptor183.jpg http://www.billsautofab.com/images/subtoyadaptor184.jpg

as always the simpler a machine looks the more complicated it truely is, the 2 stroke is nothing more then a piston moving up and down compared to a 4 stroke I spent untold hours on this when I had my own dyno, we could build an expansion pipe so well it pulled the skirt off the lower portion of the front of the piston but what we came away with was, if you had narrow transfer ports, you needed a larger diameter main body, if you had larger transfer ports, you needed a smaller diameter main body, there was a tremendous difference in heat in the first 6 to 8 inches, you had to keep the pipe round for at least the first 6 inches away from the cylinder to get rid of the heat and you had to shape the exhaust port in a 'D' shape with the lower portion of the 'D' on the floor of the port because the port always turned sharply downward the gas flowed faster at the top of the port then the floor of the port so the floor side had to be larger so we wound up using smaller transfer ports with larger main bodies on longer tracks for more top end and smaller main bodies with larger transfer ports for short tracks and as just a bonus point, we switched to larger flywheels on the dirt tracks to maintain engine enirtia for low speed acceleration off the corner

be VERY carful with that stuff, if you are spraying it, your lungs cannot purge that crap out it turns hard like when plastic body filler is used too thick and when near any heat it falls off after its ' baked' by the heat

that was the original problem with the 4G63 in the Starion, guys were pushing the engine back so far in the firewall, they had to chop the car up, so when I built the motor mounts, I placed the engine 3 inches ahead of the firewall to allow the use of the first gen CAS system well, that was done after I had built the T 56 bellhousings, so I dont have an answer about where the shifter winds up, having said all that I think there are aftermatket shifters available for the T 56