StarQuestMike

Still available.

AEM Failsafe wideband: $290 +shipping Pretty fancy wideband that allows you to hook up your laptop and set parameters to kill your engine if your car runs too lean or too rich, plus a bunch of other features. Check it out here http://www.aemelectr...lsafe-gauge-84/ http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll82/MikeTrottermb/image1_zpse852affb.jpeg Best off emailing me if you are interested in the part....I don't have a lot of time to get on here and see if I have PM's or replys to this topic. MikeTrottermb@gmail.com

Walbro is gone. Wideband still available

ttt

^

Updated the first post with pictures

AEM Failsafe wideband: $290 +shipping Pretty fancy wideband that allows you to hook up your laptop and set parameters to kill your engine if your car runs too lean or too rich, plus a bunch of other features. Check it out here http://www.aemelectr...lsafe-gauge-84/ http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll82/MikeTrottermb/image1_zpse852affb.jpeg Walbro 255 fuel pump: 80+ shipping http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll82/MikeTrottermb/photo10_zps2b0016a3.jpg Both items are brand new, shipped to my house and sat in my office since. Lost interest in my Starion at the moment so selling off some stuff I don't need.

Yeah I know the top one is the CTS, and the bottom one is for the gauge, but I noticed when I have the car running and I unplug the wire for the CTS the gauge maxes out, so I am assuming that the bad connection is coming from there. "Normal" running temperature it's usually sitting just above the bottom mark, the one labeled 2 on the picture you posted.

Just got the quest back on the road did a complete rebuild. My temperature gauge likes to randomly max out and then it will go back to showing normal operating temperature after min or two. I don't think my car is overheating think the gauge is just being dumb. I cleaned the connections and put some di-electric grease on them and that didn't seem to clear up the issue. Thinking the CTS may be bad but figured I'd post on here to see what you guys think. I have an aftermarket aluminum radiator and have the fan switch where the old egr sensor was. Running a 180 thermostat. Let me know what you guys think I should check. Even though I am pretty sure it's not overheating has me a bit skeptical, I don't want to blow the hg of my fresh engine lol.

I'll have to roll out there with you when my car is running

Me

I'm in the process of converting my 12a to a 16g. I have it all done for the most part. Taking in the compressor housing in today to get machined to fit the 16g wheel. I bought a messed up 16g off craigslist and bought new wheels and a rebuild kit. Paid 100 to get my housings machined. I went this route so I could just bolt it up and go.

Mine are starting to not want to go down need to clean the switch. But if I just wiggle the headlight on switch they will go down.

Remove the primary sensor from the stock radiator and put it where the egr thermoswitch is. Then just wire it to the fans. Both my fans kick on at the same time. I changed my thermostat to a 180 but a stock temp would achieve the same results

Yeah really expensive. I plan on just pulling one from a parts car at some point and having them install it

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=113241

I am running that eBay radiator previous poster linked. Work well but you'll have to custom fab some mounts. My radiator fits so snug in my car that I'm running it without mounts but probably not the best idea. Doesn't take much to mess up aluminum. Like previous poster said there is no bung for the fans. I made a post a few months back on my setup and it is still working well.

Lol...at least the previous owner tried to replace the injector clips....a little solder and heat shrink goes a long way.

buy a supra and put a Starion engine in it.

It's not too much...you're car should run a 20g fine...I would recommend a higher flowing fuel pump..not sure if you replaced your fuel pump with a stock one or not. It's all about how much boost and how you drive it...pick up a boost controller. As long as your car is running solid I don't see you having a problem

I had a glass shop find me one, and it was going to cost me 400, plus another 150-200 to install...it's a grip but they are out there if your shop is willing to look. I think the only reason they found it for me was because I know them, otherwise they would have given up in a heartbeat.

or leaving a wrench on the crank bolt and trying to start your car...haha

I witnessed this track. Needs the loopdee loop xD

sounds like you own a toyota

I have my stock one from my 87 quest...When I had it in my car my car overheated...doesn't seem to have any leaks so it must be clogged...a radiator flush may fix it...I would probably let it go for pretty cheap. PM me if interested.