JohnnyWadd

Other side yes. And do you mean the gauge hood? I have one but its sun cracked

Fronts or rears? Those fronts are fun to adjust. 4 set screws to be loosened and then you tighten or loosen the inner/outer ones to adjust camber. Get a gauge and a good flat surface and us a marks-a-lot marker to record the adjustments on the plates. Do a short drive after adjustment and recheck. Even like a 100 foot parking lot circle. On mine I started out with a base setting to work from by measuring from the strut top to the fold on the fender. It is a longer measurement so it lets you see how far your set screw turns are moving the strut. Step one is see where the camber is with a gauge and step two is make some adjustments and see what the result is.

I will get an under the car pic later on. There may be one up here somewhere already.

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/random%20parts/th_partsnip2.jpg The plastic one creates a funnel so the air goes through the intercooler and not around it.Probably also make the air dam work its best by keeping air from going under the car. http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/random%20parts/th_SAM_5125.jpg http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/random%20parts/th_SAM_5124.jpg

Yeah, its part of the whole cooling system. It will help to go all OEM 89. You can run without it and be okay. It is nice to have it all stock and the intercooler and radiator efficiency will be maximized. For sale. I asked to have it moved. Thanks.

$200.00 . Comes with sweet decal. Come with a pair of silicon couplers and stainless t bolt clamps. If you would like a sweet deal on the entry and exit pipes I can hook you up. http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/parts%20for%20sale/th_SAM_5112.jpg http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/parts%20for%20sale/th_SAM_5113.jpg http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/parts%20for%20sale/th_SAM_5114.jpg http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/parts%20for%20sale/th_SAM_5115.jpg http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/parts%20for%20sale/th_SAM_5117.jpg http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/parts%20for%20sale/th_SAM_5119.jpg

Maybe the select few who like them finally got theirs? LOL

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http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=148151

Two pieces. Metal plate and plastic air diverter http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/parts%20for%20sale/th_SAM_5111.jpg http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/parts%20for%20sale/th_SAM_5110.jpg http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/parts%20for%20sale/th_SAM_5109.jpg http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/parts%20for%20sale/th_SAM_5108.jpg $125.00

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Yes, filament type bulbs.

Turbo does not need to create vacuum, the incoming air and pumping effect of the engine creates vacuum anytime its runnning. Venturi effect. Anytime air is flowing the effect is there. Just the shape of the nipple in the turbo inlet will improve the effect. Take a piece of PVC pipe and cut a slant on the end and hold it out your window when driving , notice the difference when you turn the open end towards the direction of travel and vise versa. Now try it with a straight cut piece of pipe like the OEM system has. It was designed to work within it limits. Replacing the system without looking at how the components work together will gain you nothing but bling and bragging rights for having BMW or Ebay parts on your car. Obviously it was not designed for sheer performance, it was design to meet many specs of exhaust and evaporative emissions and keep a vacuum on the crank case. Improve the existing system by enhancing its function. Get it? It uses vacuum, so improve the vacuum port. It pulls vapors through tight baffles and small I.D. hoses, so use bigger ones and mod the baffles.

same part number e8t00571 or MD145973 sorry I do not seem to have an oem one. I have a six pole relay and some other heavy duty ones, they could be made to work , you would have to i.d. the wires in the harness, separate them from their clips and plug the female spades to the other relay... http://www.mymoparparts.com/oe-mopar/md145973

As with all problems proper diagnosis should be step 2 after identifying the problem.....so what is the problem with the stock system? (beside its clogged/neglected) I struggle to see an issue with the stock system. More boost (upgraded engine components) just means more potential for blowby/crankcase pressure. What can be improved to make the oil seperator be more efficient? Locate the can in a cooler engine bay spot? Modify the valve cover baffles? Bigger lines? better port in the intake to create the venturi effect? Yeah.

I just realized other relays will work as well.

I can tell you the plug is the same.

The shroud is indeed a cooling loss due the the lack of ambient flow. If you use foam tape at the fan mount and go without the shroud you might be even better .

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/parts%20for%20sale/th_SAM_5020%20-%20Copy.jpg

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/parts%20for%20sale/th_SAM_5091.jpg http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/parts%20for%20sale/th_SAM_5092.jpg http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/parts%20for%20sale/th_SAM_5093.jpg http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/parts%20for%20sale/th_SAM_5094.jpg http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/parts%20for%20sale/th_SAM_5095.jpg Full led bulbs minus the fog lights. Markers and turn signals with have high quality LED's installed for you $100.00 shipped