ESIrType?

Hey man, good to see you around! I hope all is well! It's been sometime too! Sorry I didn't see this sooner, I would have gladly taken it off your hands. Let me know when you head my way, my doors are always open for you two. Shawn

If you can't find them here, hit up ebay. They are to expensive at the parts store and they are a common item shared across different cars. Shawn

I had the same problem with coil saturation. At 5300 rpms under load the car lost all power. It ended up being the stock EDIS coil. I changed over to an Accel coil and my problem was solved. I was running .28 gap also. I haven't driven the car in years, and have made a lot of changes since then. I will have to see how the direct drive works now vs the EDIS module. Shawn

The reason I did it a while back, was it was easy, and cheap. I wanted to get rid of the stock distrib and coil too. I'm not stuck on the EDIS setup, but more so the crank triggering setup. I am running direct drive now. If I had to do it again, I would probably go the same route, but with a COP setup instead. Shawn

I'll see if I can get some pics of mine for you. I did mine years ago before there was someone producing a kit for these. It wasn't bad to do. The worst was getting the missing tooth wheel to line up on the pulley. I had a spare pulley, so I used that. Shawn

I changed over my MS last year and have my old EDIS module laying around. I don't need it and if you want it, you can have it for cheap. It's on a nice mounting bracket too. If you're interested, PM me. Or for quicker response text me at 980-428-6556 Shawn

Amonje123 you're welcome! Glad I can help! I think I may take a little a little time to do a quick write-up. I think there are many people who don't know about this and will help save them money by not having to doing a rebuild. I did a local member's car and he was amazed that it became a new car. Shawn

Yes it will as long as your computer has a bluetooth. Also there are iphone/ipad apples for megasquirt. Shawn

Nope, give it a try I think you'll be surprised. Shawn

I think something often missed is the adjustment screw on the top of the steering box. I've tightened mine on my Starion, my neighbors Blazer and HeroJr's quest. In all 3 cases it tightened up the steering again. If you look at the top of the steering box, you will see a 18mm nut and a flat, set screw. Loosen the nut out a few turns. Then screw the set screw in till you get some resistance. Don't go crazy, just snug it up. Now tighten the set screw. I think you will be surprised that the steering is much tighter. Also, you don't need the car running to do this. I will say for the people who try this with worn front end parts, your suspension will still be loose. Shawn

I can't remember the flow rates of the stock FP, so I am not sure if it will be enough for you or not. I personally believe it will be if that turbo is putting out 550cfm at 15psi. If you plan to continue to make more power, I would say upgrade the FP now. It's an easy job and the 255 FP's have seem to come down in price over the years. I hope someone else chimes in on this one. My modding with TBI was limited. I never tested the limits of the fuel pump. When I was running 14psi on my Holset, I had already upgraded the fuel pump before hand. I will say I was running a 850cc secondary injector off an 86 Starion. I had it laying around and my secondary was bad. I luckily didn't run into trouble. The most I modded with my car being TBI was...3"dp, 2.5" exhaust, 274 cam, hy-35 14psi, 2.5" hard pipes, HD fuel pump, and recurved dist'. I switched over to MPI back in 05. If you can weld (assuming you can by your post), I would say make a log header rather than porting the stock exhaust manifold. You can by the bends cheap and there are some guys making some power with the log style header. I made my equal length header with heavy gauge ells and welded it years ago. It made a huge difference with spool up. This is the turbo I am running the Hy-35 vs the 12a and spoolup time was almost the same thanks to the header. http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m500/esirtype/Starion/turbo_1.jpg Shawn

Ok, may questions and you will receive many answers. I am sure you are going to get some different feedback and opinions here too. 1. You can run your stock sized injectors without a problem. What kind of boost do you plan on running? I am assuming under 20psi. If so I believe the stock injectors will take it but maybe near 100 percent cycle duty. A MAF/MAF translator will be nice for richening up that mid-top end if needed. I personally don't have experience with running these. I have helped 2 guys who are running them. 2. You will be fine running the stock intake and throttle body size. A 52mm TB wouldn't hurt for future upgrades though. 3. Again, it depends what you are trying to achieve here. The stock IC would be fine. But like the TB a little larger wouldn't hurt. I would recommend 2.25" if you are going to MOD it. Many of us are running big ebay intercoolers with success. I ran a HY35 Holset (a fairly large turbo) with a 3"DP, 2.5" exhaust, stock IC, stock injectors and 15 psi without problems and the spool up was almost as fast as a 12a. 3. The stock FPR is a rising rate of 1:1 which most after market are. The advantage of an adjustable is being able to adjust your base pressure. This can allow you to squeeze a little more out of your injectors. My opinion, depending on what you want to spend. Throw on the turbo and go from there. I hope you have an A/F gauge already. If not invest in a wideband o2 like AEM or Innovative. So you know where your A/F is at. What I personally did id ran a NB 02 and NB gauge for a while. When I upgraded to a WB o2 I went with the Innovative Lc1 kit. It has 2 outputs. I used one for my Megasquirt and the other was programmed to simulate a NB o2 signal and ran that to the NB o2 gauge. I didn't have to invest in a new AFR gauge and it is accurate now. Now if your pockets are a little deeper, go a head an have your stock IC modded or possibly for the same price get a larger Ebay intercooler. Also open up the TB a little and let the car breath better. Another option you will want to look at is hard pipes, if you don't have already. The stock ones expand and fail to much. Shawn

I get mixed feedback about the permatorque. I will say this last Ajusa, I pulled off the car with about 30 mins of idling time on it and no driving. I reused it since I read others have had luck doing this. I scrapped off all the coating that was on the gasket and used permatorque. The permatorque didn't seem to stick the the coating that came on the gasket. Shawn

The late model head gasket was made for more boost. Which I believe is the 9116. Man of us have run 14psi on the non-HD gasket without problems. I will say I am running a HY-35 at 20psi for now. With the FelPro 8770 and SRP head studs I was lifting the head off the block. I switched the the fake MLS gasket (Ajusa), with copper spray and that solved that problem. SHawn

I have a 15" notebook and 7" netbook. Surprisingly what I use the most for my MS (about always) is the 7" netbook. If you have a droid device check out the apps, they are free. For me and what I want to do an need, a 7" double din would be perfect (my stereo just crapped out). With the droid apps you can datalog and save them to external storage then tune your file and send it back to your. MSLogger will actually auto email you the log file if you want. I will say there are a few features that are not accessible in MSDroid. But that doesn't matter to me, because I can jump on the laptop through bluetooth. What I really want is to have the MS gauge layout on a screen on the car and logging options. Once the car is back on the road I will use my phone or tablet for the time being. I am going to hold off on the head unit for now, but will be purchased in the future for sure. This will give you an idea of what it looks like without downloading it. Also it's a better options (in my opinion) than this. http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megaviewi-unassembled-kit-p-95.html Many of us have a droid or apple product already. Really the main point of this post was about my findings with a cheap class 1 bluetooth. Shawn

I am bring this back from the dead, after forgetting about it and finding it on a google search. I finally setup my BT yesterday. It took some hacking of my RS232 to BT adapter. The main reason I wanted this was so I could use it with my android phone pr tablet. There are 2 nice programs for droids, MSDroid (www.msdroid.com)and MSlogger. Both can be downloaded from Google Play. There is also Shawdow Logger, from the developers of TunerStudio. I really like the BT option, not for the range, but because I am wireless and I can control everything from my android devices or laptop. As of not I can only get Tunerstudio to pair and not Megatune. My droids pair fine. I either will break down and purchase Tunerstudio or tinker with Megatune. I would like the "auto tune" option. Standard on Megatune, paid option on Tunerstudio. Another nice thing I will do is purchase a double din, 7" screen, android head unit. The previous plan was a double din with a screen, head unit and install a "carputer." Now there's a cheaper and easier option thats super convenient. I have a second BT coming soon that I will do some testing with. I am getting around 12fps to 15fps with a max baud of 9600 (MS1). The MSII is supposed to suppert 115,200 baud. Shawn

HeroJr, a quick side note if you can (I know it was a PITA) get it running to get the engine warm before doing a compression test. If you want I might have some time to swing by to give you a hand, depending what day it is. I am going to try to go to Cars and Coffee. The only problem is, I am still on the bike. It's been 5 1/2 weeks and my car is still in the shop. Hopefully they will paint it this weekend. Shawn

I went with the innovative LC-1 years ago. I've been happy with it and it's been trouble free for me. One of the reasons I went with it was the cost of a new WBo2. It uses a common WBo2 that can be purchased cheaper than a new NBo2 (at least last I looked). Also it has dual outputs. So I used the second output to simulate a NB signal and stayed with my NB-AFR gauge. Only it reads accurate versus NB. Shawn

The valve can be held slightly open and yet still register compression. I don't believe it's burnt our bent. Shawn

The valve can be held slightly open and yet still register compression. I don't believe it's burnt our bent. Shawn

Very nice right up, and thank you for taking the time to write it. It's nice to have this in a collective place so that people thinking about switching know more what they are about to get into. Shawn

I don't have a leak down tester, but they can easily be made. You said you have an air compressor, correct? If the valves are being held open, there should be low compression numbers. so a compression tester should tell us also. Maybe an auto parts store that rents tools will have one. Shawn

Something to add to that, we did check the cam timing and it was on (as much as it could be). The cam was a touch advanced, which I suspect the aftermarket head has something to do with it. Or possible the timing chain is a tad stretched. We retarded it 1 tooth and it was off to much. What is odd is that at this point the only change that has been made is the cam. Everything else was put back the way it had been before when it was running. I have run my car with it 1 tooth advanced and retarded and I could at least get it to idle and drive for that matter. The car idles so erratic. We tried setting the idle several times following the procedures that were printed off. The car kept wanting to idle higher. I don't suspect a vacuum leak either. I saw it's going to be something simple and we will kick ourselves for it once the problem is solved. HeroJr, since those injectors are stock size, try swapping in the set of stock injectors you have, That's if you haven't already. Also ZERO our the MAF trans too. Shawn

Is it still running rough or hard to start? I bet Thor cam is a tooth or 2 off. I've done that before. I posted something awhile back for a simple cam alignment tool I made and there is a template there. I will see if I can find it. Or if you want on Saturday I can give you a hand. Shawn

I would leave the 6AL on. I noticed a difference on a stock car with just a MSD blaster2 coil. I think you will like the car with the stock cam back in it. You will gain some torque back. I personally always though a 294 was a bit much for our cars. I think a 284 with a ton of mod's is the limit. That's me and everyone has their own taste. The 6AL won't hurt the plug wires either. When you get a chance, hit me up. I found that heat shield for you and I also have your strut parts. Lets get together sometime now that things are starting to get back to normal and I have passed through everything going on. Shawn