ZacMan Posted July 25, 2012 Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 If I was even geographically close to you I'd lend a hand, I've got a good grasp on vehicle wiring, ECU's and ignition systems. Just this damn ocean in the way. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pc85 Posted July 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 If I was even geographically close to you I'd lend a hand, I've got a good grasp on vehicle wiring, ECU's and ignition systems. Just this damn ocean in the way.Your going to let something like an ocean stop you from helping me out? LOL. No worries, appreciate the concern and I hope to have her tuned by Sept. If not, she's toast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IntercooledFlatty Posted July 26, 2012 Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 don't give up like i did your flatty is sweet man just keep plugging away and when you get there you'll be glad you did ... you are SO close Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IntercooledFlatty Posted July 26, 2012 Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 Flatty LOVE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pc85 Posted August 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2012 don't give up like i did your flatty is sweet man just keep plugging away and when you get there you'll be glad you did ... you are SO closeOK, but this is really trying my patience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pc85 Posted August 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2012 Well thanks to StarquestRescue to the rescue, we checked the Haltech ignition and ECU for grounding issues, no real problems there. The bucking and stalling seems to be tuning related. Haven't had luck scheduling with Swift Racing Technologies (DC) but I have some names for local tuners, hopefully I'll get this thing running the way it should be soon. Thanks for all the support guys Flatty love. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuGG Posted August 5, 2012 Report Share Posted August 5, 2012 He is great. I purchased a part from him and he shipped real fast. I need to leave him some + feedback. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pc85 Posted August 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2012 He is great. I purchased a part from him and he shipped real fast. I need to leave him some + feedback. Ditto, StarquestRescue has always been there to help out. He has an amazing wealth of knowledge with these cars and has helped me out with parts as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pc85 Posted September 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2012 (edited) Finally making some progress and will be taking her down for tuning next week. Another big thanks to Starquest Rescue for working out some of the kinks. After I get her tuned, I'll be working on interiors and wanted to knowif anyone knows where to get this gauge cluster fabbed:http://i849.photobucket.com/albums/ab51/pc85dr/GaugeCluster_zpsf85afeef.jpg Thanks for any info Edited September 24, 2012 by pc85 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pc85 Posted October 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 So I got her tuned, did 310 whp at 18 psi, but still have hesitation/stalling issues. I was hoping that would go away with the tune. Looks like I have the dreaded electrical bug. Going to start with another new alternator with higher output than the nock- off I just installed in '09. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted October 16, 2012 Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 If it was my car i would degree the cam or put a stock one in. I would also ditch the aluminum flywheel for a lightened stocker or full weight. I think those two things would do wonders for it. Did they tune for idle and cruise or just wide open? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted October 16, 2012 Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 Congrats on the 310. They have a Mustang dyno i think? They tend to be conservative i think. What does the shop think is needed to fix the stumble and stalling? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxboost87 Posted October 17, 2012 Report Share Posted October 17, 2012 Joe, explain the issues with hesitation and stalling. Is there any way you can e-mail me the tune thats in the car now? I will look it over and maybe we will try a few things. How come they stopped tuning at 18psi? I know theres more power hiding in there;) What did torque numbers look like? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pc85 Posted October 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2012 (edited) If it was my car i would degree the cam or put a stock one in. I would also ditch the aluminum flywheel for a lightened stocker or full weight. I think those two things would do wonders for it.Did they tune for idle and cruise or just wide open?Tuned for both, I wanted a safe top output so we kept it at 80% on the boost controller which yielded about 18-20 psi then they took her out and "feathered" it for drive ability.Congrats on the 310. They have a Mustang dyno i think? They tend to be conservative i think. What does the shop think is needed to fix the stumble and stalling?Correct, talked with the tuner this morning. Mustang dynos are weighted down to the car's specs to reflect real road conditions. I was told the 310 on a Mustang dyno is equivalent to a 350-360 whp rating on a dyno jet. The tuner says Its definitely electrical. On the road test it ran fine, lit up the tires in third then stalled after running fine. He tested the alternator and was only putting out 38 amps! LOL. So I just ordered a new alternator with 110 amps. If that's not it then its back to the drawing board with re-wiring a new harness, OMG. Edited October 18, 2012 by pc85 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted October 18, 2012 Report Share Posted October 18, 2012 Did he fix the wide band interface to the ecu? Voltage drops should show on the data logs. I wish i had not saved that last log wrong. :mad: Do you have the car home? We could try some more data logging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pc85 Posted October 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2012 Joe, explain the issues with hesitation and stalling. Is there any way you can e-mail me the tune thats in the car now? I will look it over and maybe we will try a few things. How come they stopped tuning at 18psi? I know theres more power hiding in there;) What did torque numbers look like?On sudden decel when I'm braking to turn, RPMs will sometimes drop to just a 1-2 hundred and if I put on the turn signal it may just die flat on its face. If I use the turn signal while idling, A/R fuel ratio meter will jump from 11 at idle and start bucking between 12-14 while the blinker is on. Also, I recently noticed something really strange, when I would back out of a parking space or a garage as soon as I let off the gas a lot of times it would just stall. So last week while idling, I moved the shifter into reverse (without letting out the clutch) and same thing happened, A/R meter jumped from 11 to like 14 and idle would drop? StarquestRescue has been helping out by checking for proper grounds and proper current/voltage to the Haltech. We did what we could to trouble shoot any electrical issues with very little improvement so we were hoping the tune would solve the problem. After the dyno, the tuner had the same issues with stalling on the road. Anyway, there's a good chance the alternator Horsepower installed in '09 was a POS. He tested the output and it's only putting out about 38 amps. So I hope the new alternator will help solve some of the electrical issues or else? I'm out of town this week so I don't have the dyno results with me and I can't remember the torque figures. As soon as I get home, I'll see about getting the results of the tune and e-mailing them to you. I asked about the boost levels and he tried to explain that at 18-20 PSI the turbo efficiency was maxed out and raising the boost over that had very little impact on HP gains. I had some trouble buying that, I was sure I would get a lot more power out of the turbo but what do I know? So that's the scoop, surprised to hear from you on the site. Glad to see you come out of hiding, LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pc85 Posted October 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2012 Did he fix the wide band interface to the ecu? Voltage drops should show on the data logs. I wish i had not saved that last log wrong. :mad: Do you have the car home? We could try some more data logging.They didn't use my wide band, they install a separate bung and use their own O2 sensor/wideband. I guess this way they don't have those kind of issues. Car is still at Mt. Airy taking care of some other issues and waiting for the new alternator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted October 18, 2012 Report Share Posted October 18, 2012 (edited) They didn't use my wide band, they install a separate bung and use their own O2 sensor/wideband. I guess this way they don't have those kind of issues. Car is still at Mt. Airy taking care of some other issues and waiting for the new alternator.Well than they obviously aren't using o2 correction, which surprises me. Not that that is the root problem, but o2 input to the ecu can be a plus. Especially when viewing logs. Truth is we barely scratched the surface of the electrical trouble shooting. More work is needed. Edited October 18, 2012 by StarquestRescue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxboost87 Posted October 18, 2012 Report Share Posted October 18, 2012 Sounds to me like it's the voltage correction table in the haltech tune, along with an inconsisent alt. output. Injectors do different things with different voltages feeding them. Haltech varies the pulswidth accordingly as other power draws happen. I would definitly do the alternator and then see how it behaves. If problems persist we will modify your tune. Get a datalog of when the problem occurs and i should be able to figure it out. ~Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pc85 Posted October 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2012 Sounds to me like it's the voltage correction table in the haltech tune, along with an inconsisent alt. output. Injectors do different things with different voltages feeding them. Haltech varies the pulswidth accordingly as other power draws happen. I would definitly do the alternator and then see how it behaves. If problems persist we will modify your tune. Get a datalog of when the problem occurs and i should be able to figure it out. ~LeeHope your right. I'll let you know how things work out with the new alternator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pc85 Posted January 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 (edited) So here's the latest. Installed the new alternator with 100+ amps, no change. Rewired all the interior wiring between the O2 sensor and Haltech, installed Haltech fuse relay between battery and OEM harness, installed new distributor sensor: still NO CHANGE. So after spending 3 months tinkering with the electricals, there may be something wrong with the Haltech ECU so we're sending back to manufacture for repair/replacement. After replacing the Haltech, its going on the chopping block; FOR SALE. Got bit with an electrical bug and my patience and hope to have the dream has resulted in a frustrating nightmare. DONE. Edited January 9, 2013 by pc85 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZacMan Posted January 9, 2013 Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 Gah, this blows. Wish I was there, I'd rewire the whole thing for you and give sorting it out a go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pc85 Posted January 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 (edited) BLOWS major league but after all the time and $$$ invested in this project and for it to still have unresolved issues, I just can't, in good conscience, keep spending anymore $$$. I was almost there, after tuning it just needed a little interior work for radio and dash components then final paint but maybe someone else will be willing to finish the project.My next update will probably be in the "For Sale" forum. Edited January 9, 2013 by pc85 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pc85 Posted February 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2013 Found a live harness wire under the dash that may have caused a short in the Haltech ECU. The Haltech ECU was part of the problem, after everything done to resolve the hesitation/stalling issues the unit just wasn't responding. It is being repaired, will take 4-6 WEEKS!!! Ironically, the reason I went with Haltech was to have a more reputable name brand unit with fewer tuning issues HAHA!. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZacMan Posted February 2, 2013 Report Share Posted February 2, 2013 Are Link/ViPEC ECU's well known over there? They're pretty much all anyone uses over here, and are really really good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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