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Water Pump BlockOff Plate Being Made


csdisme
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As the title says, I am currently having a plate made to fit where the water pump usually sits and am going with a remote electric pump. The plate will be made from 1/4" aluminum and will be ready to bolt on. It will be just as easy to have more than one made, and while I haven't seen anyone else running an electric water pump, it doesn't mean some folks don't want to. So, here's your chance. I am having one done for fitment purposes and then the others will be made. The machinist just sent me a copy of the plan for me to check out and aside from 1 minor alteration, I told him it looked fine, so I am thinking I will be looking at the fitment piece within a couple of weeks. Obviously the more pieces we get the cheaper it will be, and I will get a breakdown of the piece price after he makes the first one, but I did want to see if there was any interest at all for something like this. Like I said earlier, this is getting made whether anyone gets in on it or not, I am just opening it up to anyone who might be interested.

 

I will update this post as I get more info/pics, and with a list of interest parties. I am not looking for a commitment yet as I don't have a firm price, I just want to gauge interest.

 

Thanks and let me know if you have any questions. :thumbsup:

 

List of "interested" people (doesn't mean they are buying anything):

 

quickcong

speedyquest

jahjah - just looking

wizard

 

UPDATE - Here is the pricing for the block off plate. I will post pics of the production one as soon as it is complete. The revised drawing are in the machinists hands and we are just waiting on the AN fitting to arrive to make sure the 0.25" aluminum is thick enough to securely hold the threads of a fitting that is 1 5/16" in diameter. I will continue to add people to the "interested" list and will not start an actual GP until I have the final product ready to go.

 

PRICING

 

1 - 5 - $60.00 + shipping

6 - 10 - $55.00 + shipping

10+ - $50.00 with free shipping

 

Here are the pics of the plate. As this is just for fitment purposes The machinist did not drill/tap for the AN fitting that is needed to connect to the pump.

 

http://www.chaoticfrenzy.com/waterpumpblocktest1.jpg

 

 

http://www.chaoticfrenzy.com/waterpumpblocktest2.jpg

 

Here's a couple of more pics of the plate mounted, please keep in mind that this is the fitment plate and the hole for the AN fitting is not there.

 

http://www.chaoticfrenzy.com/plate3.JPG

 

http://www.chaoticfrenzy.com/plate4.JPG

Edited by csdisme
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id be much more prone to doing this if you would show a suggested setup. im not expecting you to do my homework for me, its a matter of i wouldnt know where to start...

 

any ideas?

 

allen

 

Sure, I am running a custom aluminum radiator (actually even though it was custom it was only like $375) with -16 fittings welded on where the standard inlet and outlet were. Then I picked up a CSR universal water pump. It puts out around 33 - 35 GPM. I bought some -16 hose and fittings and will run a hose from my plate to the pump, from the pump to the bottom of the radiator, from the top of the radiator to the thermostat housing. Yes it was a little more pricey, but when you take everything into consideration. Most have been replacing their radiators with aluminum ones, so that's a wash. The cost of the block off plate or a new water pump - that's a wash. I picked up my -16 hose off eBay from a Nascar team selling off all last years spares. I got 28ft for $20 + shipping. The only real expense in the water pump itself, and if you shop around you can probably come away with a deal on one.

 

The power gains may be minor, but then again every little bit helps :P but I think the cooling gains themselves would be worthwhile. The volume of water being pushed by the electric pump has to be considerably more than the stock water pump.

 

Hopefully I was able to answer your questions, I don't have mine put together yet, but I do have all the components. If you would like to see some pics of the parts I am using let me know, I'd be glad to post them.

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Please don't associate my efforts to bring a part that until now I was not aware was ever even made with potential scams. I was was the one that completed Emagdnim's failed head bolt group buy and the T-56 flywheel group buy Otis backed out of. If you don't want one of these fine, noone is forcing anyone to buy any. I just thought since I am having one made for myself I would offer it to the general masses.
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If your doing one for yourself anyways.... then why not do it and then post when you've got pictures so you can gauge real interest.

 

that's the plan, the first one is already in the works, plus, I won't know the per piece price until the first one is done anyway. I just wanted to see if there was any interest at all.

 

 

im interested ,pending price

 

Thanks :thumbsup: I'll add you to the "interested" list

Edited by csdisme
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Hell... I'm interested to see just how your running it :)

 

LOL, Sounds good, I'll add to the just want to look list.

 

Just a quick update, I just got an email from the machinist and he is moving quicker than I thought. He said I could pick up the test piece in a few hours. If nothing else I'll be able to get some pics of it and get them posted for everyone to see.

 

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I'd be interested.

 

Wizard

 

 

I added you to the list, thanks :thumbsup:

 

I am hoping to get some prices up shortly, I am just waiting on a revised price from the machinist.

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This set up works very good. The real benifit is cooling down after hard driving/track time with the engine off you can keep the coolant running through the block and the fans on. Drops the temp quick. Eliminates heat soak problems. I run the CSI elec. pump with -16 lines and an afco aluminium rad. on my 350. it Runs even 185 -190. No thermostat the -16 necks it down and adds a good level of flow restiction. It may take some tweaking on the 2.6. But the system should be more than enough. Moroso sells weld on -16 fitting in steel and alum. thats what I used to convert mine. I have both the fans and pump wired into seperate relays on thermo sensors.

 

http://i632.photobucket.com/albums/uu50/camostarquest/CIMG4426.jpg

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This set up works very good. The real benifit is cooling down after hard driving/track time with the engine off you can keep the coolant running through the block and the fans on. Drops the temp quick. Eliminates heat soak problems. I run the CSI elec. pump with -16 lines and an afco aluminium rad. on my 350. it Runs even 185 -190. No thermostat the -16 necks it down and adds a good level of flow restiction. It may take some tweaking on the 2.6. But the system should be more than enough. Moroso sells weld on -16 fitting in steel and alum. thats what I used to convert mine. I have both the fans and pump wired into seperate relays on thermo sensors.

 

http://i632.photobucket.com/albums/uu50/camostarquest/CIMG4426.jpg

 

Nice Setup :thumbsup: I was trying to figure how to run a pump similar to that but I chickened out and went the easy route with universal remote. :P I wanted to get an aluminum radiator, so I got one from Ron Davis, I had him use a stock core and weld custom end tanks on it. He also welded the -16 fittings and the brackets as well. Going with and electric pusher fan for the radiator as well, I had the same idea as you as far as leaving the pump and fan running after you shut the engine down.

 

 

im just not sure of the....longevity of an electric water pump? i usually only see those on strictly tracked cars

 

I thought the same thing, but when I start checking into it, I found that the company that makes the pump I ended up going with, CSR Performance, claims to sell quite a few electric pumps to street users. They claim the motor should be replaced after 3500 hours of use or after 50,000 miles. That should be good for a few years at least.

 

 

id love pictures of your setup. it sound like id love to run this.

 

Once I get the rest of the small pieces completed I'll post the pics here. I have some tweaking that needs to be done to the plate and I need to make the bottom of my thermostat housing. Once those are done I'll mock it up and get some pictures.

 

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wonder how much power it draws from the system though...its gotta be a decent amount

 

I couldn't find the amperage use on the one that I got from CSR, but Meziere has a comparable one, puts out 35 GPM and the expected motor life is about 2500 hours, and the draw is 6-7 amps. With the extra fans and such I am running I made the switch to GM alternator, so I thinking I there shouldn't be a problem.

 

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I couldn't find the amperage use on the one that I got from CSR, but Meziere has a comparable one, puts out 35 GPM and the expected motor life is about 2500 hours, and the draw is 6-7 amps. With the extra fans and such I am running I made the switch to GM alternator, so I thinking I there shouldn't be a problem.

 

 

how much???

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how much???

 

Are you asking how much the price of the block off plate is? If so, I just updated the 1st post with the pricing.

Edited by csdisme
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