starion420blaze Posted March 10, 2009 Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 (edited) :character0269: I need some more help. the quest takes about 4 of 5miles to heat up, then it gets a little two hot about 3/4 the way up. thanks guys Edited March 12, 2009 by starion420blaze Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjs91tsi Posted March 10, 2009 Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 :character0269: I need some more help. the quest takes about 4 of 5miles to heat up, then it gets a little two hot about 3/4 the way up. thanks guys Try temporarilly bypassing your heater core, it may cause a low flow/ restriction issue. How old/new is your radiator? you may need to get it rotted out and cleaned. I wouldnt dismiss your thermostat at all either, they can fail and only open partways causing a too warm but not overheating problem. Is your waterpump weeping? how old is it? Do you have an upgraded front mount? Restriction to air flow? And are your fans coming on? Did you do any wiring and possibly wire them backwards? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
money4771 Posted March 10, 2009 Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 (edited) Yeah I would definately check the fans first. You want to make sure they are coming on. The two closest to the engine should both be running if you get anywhere near this hot. The one in front of the radiator comes on with the A/C. Also search the site for the thread about making the two cooling fans come on together. It is a free mod and very easy to do. If they are not both running then you will always run hot. Always a good idea to take your car to the radiator shop and have it "rodded out" surely don't want them "rotting" it out. It's probably doing that on it's own. I would certainly concentrate on the more serious issue first. Solve the over-heat situation before you need an engine.! Once you get it to run at a normal range (I say no more than halfway, especially when not boosting hard), then worry about it taking two (too) long to warm up. You could always just change the thermostat anyway if you haven't already, Only costs about 4 or 5 dollars. Just my 2.6 cents worth Edited March 10, 2009 by money4771 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starion420blaze Posted March 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 :character0269: I dont think it would be the heater core, thermostat or the water pump. because it would heat up much faster right? my radiator is clean. the water pump looks kind of new and its not weeping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjs91tsi Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 Har har. yes roDDing out the radiator. haha :character0269: I dont think it would be the heater core, thermostat or the water pump. because it would heat up much faster right? my radiator is clean. the water pump looks kind of new and its not weeping. Not really, it depends. Do you let it idle untill its warm, then drive, THEN after 4-5 it gets hot? Or do you start up then immediately drive 4-5 miles then blamo its hot? Watch ther temperature gauge, does it slllllooooowwwwwlllly get up to operating temperature or does it stay ice cold then shoot up to the 3/4 level? Again, thermostats can fail and stick causing reduced flow. That causes the fluid to get hotter than it would if it were open all the way, but not boil over. Its cheap insurance so just change it now anyway. If your radiator is internally plugged up, there is less volume flowing through, and because of the contaminants, rust, calcium whatever, the radiator cant transfer the heat properly. It probably is a 20+ year old radiator, it Looks fine, but probably isnt working at %100. Ya never really know about the water pump, if its not leaking, its PROBABLY functioning properly, but I dunno, how old is it? 80 dollar waterpump or new engine... you pick. One other question, is this with AC on? What type of weather? One think I know about factory temp gauges is they are usually extremely inacurate. U should probably invest in an aftermarket temp gauge. 3/4 isnt too hot in theory, but it may really be at 240 degrees. Check the fans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starion420blaze Posted March 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 Har har. yes roDDing out the radiator. haha Not really, it depends. Do you let it idle untill its warm, then drive, THEN after 4-5 it gets hot? Or do you start up then immediately drive 4-5 miles then blamo its hot? Watch ther temperature gauge, does it slllllooooowwwwwlllly get up to operating temperature or does it stay ice cold then shoot up to the 3/4 level? Again, thermostats can fail and stick causing reduced flow. That causes the fluid to get hotter than it would if it were open all the way, but not boil over. Its cheap insurance so just change it now anyway. If your radiator is internally plugged up, there is less volume flowing through, and because of the contaminants, rust, calcium whatever, the radiator cant transfer the heat properly. It probably is a 20+ year old radiator, it Looks fine, but probably isnt working at %100. Ya never really know about the water pump, if its not leaking, its PROBABLY functioning properly, but I dunno, how old is it? 80 dollar waterpump or new engine... you pick. One other question, is this with AC on? What type of weather? One think I know about factory temp gauges is they are usually extremely inacurate. U should probably invest in an aftermarket temp gauge. 3/4 isnt too hot in theory, but it may really be at 240 degrees. Check the fans. i put a new thermostat in yesterday the radiator looks clean i just flushed it out. no A/C, I do let it warm up a little. thanks for your help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAinsworth Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 Have you checked the fan system to ensure it is working correctly? There is a good chance you need to get the radiator rodded out. It may look good, but not flow correctly. If previous owners used tap water you can bet the flow has been restricted. Jimmy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starion420blaze Posted March 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2009 Have you checked the fan system to ensure it is working correctly? There is a good chance you need to get the radiator rodded out. It may look good, but not flow correctly. If previous owners used tap water you can bet the flow has been restricted. Jimmy how much is it to get the radiator rodded?? and what do you think is the best fan upgrade?? thanks for the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted March 12, 2009 Report Share Posted March 12, 2009 (edited) the question is does or are the fans runing NEVER drive a car that you do not know if the fans will run or not , on the bottom of the rad is a wire and 2 temp sensors,, ground that wire and turn on the ign key,, is the fan runing,,ok now ground the other one,, are both runing , if not you need to repair or replace a fan motor r motors you should NOT DRIVE the car again untill you find and cure the over heating problem Edited March 12, 2009 by Shelby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starion420blaze Posted March 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2009 (edited) the question is does or are the fans runing NEVER drive a car that you do not know if the fans will run or not , on the bottom of the rad is a wire and 2 temp sensors,, ground that wire and turn on the ign key,, is the fan runing,,ok now ground the other one,, are both runing , if not you need to repair or replace a fan motor r motors you should NOT DRIVE the car again untill you find and cure the over heating problem Iam not driving it!! but what do you mean ground that wire do you know where i can find a pic, or shoud i try to do the fan mod$ what would be the best way to go if i do need fans? how much hp do u lose if you put a crank shaft fan on? :character0269: thanks. Edited March 12, 2009 by starion420blaze Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael knight Posted March 13, 2009 Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 (edited) Well it's been my experience that finding an aftermarket e-fan that will flow more CFM's than properly ducted stock fans is tough due to the lack of clearance between the waterpump pulley and A/C condenser pulley. You have to spend about $100-$250 for a Spal or perma-cool mini fan that is so shallow that it doesn't do a very competent job( or at best, barely better than stock). You'll notice the stock fans are shrouded and designed to get around these obstacles. IMO, mechanical Flex fans and 83 style shroud are the best by far for cooling. They make your car run ice cold under normal activities. However you give up some good hp for it. PM me with an address and I'll mail you an aftermarket temp gauge with sender I have in a bin. My guess is that your stock gauge is correct and that you have some issues and need to put on your detective cap. Look for leaks or signs of dripping and dried streams at all water line connections( leaking hoses will cause overheating), look for hoses caving in( cavitation), is your car eating coolant and spraying smoke screen out the back( hope not), Pull your radiator and have it cleaned/pressure tested($60 from most radiator shops), rent a pressure tester for free from Autozone and see if your system is holding pressure and where it's leaking, replace radiator cap( very common overheating fix) Have you added coolant recently( did you bleed it well afterwards- run heater till blows hot and fans kick on twice before driving) Easiest way to see if fans are working- turn car on and idle till they turn on. It will take a while but they will. If your gauge hits the halfway mark and no fans then they are not comming on. Check Fan Thermisters before assuming it's the fans. Also Check all clips/ connections including the relays under airfilter Last thing, if you are overheating while driving at highway speeds with loads of fresh air comming in, it's 95% not the fans. At highway speeds more air is coming through the radiator than our fans wish they could suck. Pending you have a functional undertray. Judging from your username it's time to burn a fatty and go stare at your engine bay. You will figure it out. My money is on a leak somewhere. Edited March 13, 2009 by michael knight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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