money4771

I need an upper and lower fixture for the stabilizer bar on an 87 Quest. I have the bushing but the fixtures are missing. FSM page 2-24

also it doesn't idle well. I know that the resistance on the cts shows 3700 and is bad but it does warm up and show 290. even using a 300 ohm resistor in its place doesnt make it idle that much better. when it warms up it idles at about 1500 rpm. it will not idle at 900-1200 or it dies every time. even when i can get it to idle steadily at 1500 rpm it will try and die at almost every stop unless i goose it a little. it idles at like 10.9 on the wideband

that is what i was thinking. but mine both have aftermarket clips. It doesn't matter which one is hooked up it will start just the same and won't idle well either way really especially cold but really bad with just the primary injector plugged up or the secondary injector being used as primary. only idles acceptably with both clips plugged up. wt?????

oh my bad sorry. the injectors are 2.2 and 2.3 ohms respectively. the 3.4 was on the clip Sorry

ok the pinching off of the return line was a fluke. worked only that one time. I finally got around to getting some starting fluid and spraying it into the chamber and it fires righ off the firs time. did it again today and it fired right up the first time. I let it run for 1 minute, shut it off and it fired right up on the next try. injector clips look really good. resistance on the primary is 3.4 ohms and secondary is 2.0. fsm says 2-3 so is 3.4 too high? another oddity to me is that it will idle with either clip plugged in and the other unhooked. but it will idle super duper poorly with one unhooked. I unhooked the secondary and it stumbled and stumbled until i plugged the secondary back in and it smoothed out.

Changed those clips about 2 years ago. Prolly just get new ones. Have not sent injectors out for cleaning ever. Prolly do that can't hurt even if that's not the whole problem

Ok got home a minute ago. tried to start the car just one time. before I tried it the fuel pressure was at zero like it always is. Turned it over once and fuel pressure went to 38 like usual, but no start. tried it again, no start. I then pinched off the fuel return line, not fully but some. It busted off on the next try as soon as the key hit the start position. I released the pinch on the return line and shut the car off. I then tried it again without the line pinched and it started. It always starts fine after the first one. What can this be. the fuel pressure was at like 52 when I pinched the hose and tried to start it.

Ok Indy gotcha. How about this even when I jumper the fuel pump which gives me the steady signal to keep the fuel pump running the car won't start right up. I usually end up having it jumpered for 5 min or so then eventually it starts.

No Indy I have not. Kinda puzzled as to what could be happening with the ignition switch. Turns over every time . Tach jumps as you crank , coil is firing . What am I missing that the switch is causing? Thanks bro

coolant temp sensor resistance 4800 ohms when cold 350 when warmed up

Ok installed gauge I am getting 38 psi during the times I try a cold start. It will not start. After turning key and it failing to start I can see the pressure fall. Removed the ovcp and saw no leakage from injectors. I can install a jumper on the fuel pump and it still won't start so it's not the relay dropping the fuel pump out. If I leave the pump jumpered for a few minutes it finally hits ( why?) during this whole process pressure is 38. After it finally starts idle pressure is 40 and goes over 100 easily when return is pinched. once it starts every start afterward is instant. I mean it doesn't turn over even twice before it starts Walbro fuel pump - fip pro2- msd coil - ngk plugs

Skullz and Indiana, When this all started I put a test light on the fuel pump test port. I cranked the engine while the test light was connected and the light was coming on during cranking. So I am assuming that the relay is doing what it should. Am I correct in this assumptiion?

ok checked the vac line from the fpr and didn't really smell gas just a faint hint, no visible sign at all. Next I tried to start it and it wouldn't. So I jumpered the fuel pump for about a minute and it fires right up. I drove it around and parked. I came out two hours later and it started right up, so I know for sure it doesn't leak down in two hours. I drove it around again then parked it. I and let it cool off. I then put a piece pulled the vac line off of the vac nipple and left it connected to the fpr. I let it rest on top of some paper I had put in a small glass jar. I left it there over night. this morning I went out and no sign at all of any fuel on the paper in the jar. I connected the line back and tried to start it and it wouldn't. Next step is to hook up the pressure gauge and see what I am getting when it won't start vs. when it will. I will let you guys know. Thanks for the help

ok Tim so how do I know? New head from Dad, with ARP's and ajusa head gasket. Having zero issue currenly with engine temp. Driving in 66 degree weather and temp gauge right at 1/5 of range or less all the time. Not seeing coolant in oil or any of that either.

Just checked the pcv. I took the hose off of it and nothing was blowing out from the valve cover, so its checking like it should. I then attached it to the hose and got vacuum on the pcv like there should be.

ok checked the nipple on back of valve cover. it is blowing out of there with full force.

ok what's the test for fuel pressure regulator leak down? Or should I just replace it, and if so what is the part # Thanks

yes I have spark during this, and if i never try to start it at all and do the fuel pump jumper first it starts on the first try.

I am having an issue with crankcase pressure. Just installed new head, gasket, and ARP's. I am now having an issue with overpressuring the crankcase and blowing the dipstick out of the tube and getting oil everywhere. A couple of days ago i even began pouring oil out of the camshaft bore plug. I have bought a new plug re-installed it and am ready to solve my issue. I am running a HKS boost electronic boost controller. My low setting is 10 psi and high is at 14 psi. Both settings blow the dipstick out. I have taken the separator out and cleaned it really well with engine degreaser. I can blow into it and have no issue at all doing so, air travels through very easily. I have blown through the oil return line and when I do I can hear the oil in the pan gurgle as I blow, so it is not plugged. My vac source comes off of the intake of the turbo piping and the nipple is angled in the right direction so that it drafts as it passes by and doesn't push air into the nipple. I am running the stock pcv valve. I took it off and blew through it with no problem. I turned it around and tried to blow through it in the other direction and couldn't so I am assuming it is ok. Something fishy to me is that if I disconnect the hoses from the separator after driving there is really no evidence of oil in any of the lines?? what next?

Ok before I get started let me preface by saying I have done all the "searches" a man can do. Ok so I am having a hard start issue. This has never been a problem in the past. I just put in a new head, gasket, and ARP's. After this work the hard start began. Don't really think it's related at all, but just wanted to give info in case. after the car sits for a while then I can turn it over and over to the point that the battery almost runs down and at times does run all the way down. Once the car starts I can drive and have no issues. Not sure the time frame for the bleed down but I have let it sit as many as three hours with no issue. I have done the jumper wire to the fuel pump test and it works. I jumper the fuel pump for several minutes and the car starts right up. My question is what exactly do I need to do next to determine where the bleed off is. I have a Walbro fuel pump so I know that I don't have the check valve, but this has never been an issue before. I am also quite sure that my injectors aren't leaking externally because I don't see or really smell any evidence of gas in the area before I try to start it.

Just a question bro. I've heard things like you said from a couple of other people. I was just wondering: when you said that $5 was always enough to at least get you home. What did you do when you got there? Do you have gas there and put more in? Or do you get home and then just stop at the gas station when you leave home and if so why not just buy more instead of $5 at a time? Not trying to be an a**hole. Just honestly really curious. Running out of gas in any car is not good but in a starquest it's worse.

Thanks Scott! yeah I remember you. Hope everythings going well for you. This is exactly the information I needed. Will check it soon.

I am not getting a light on the ECU when I turn the key to on. Since this is true then of course it doesn't flash when I crank the engine. My thinking is that I have a loose connection or blown fuse. I also am not getting any spark at the coil. Is this a result of the ECU not lighting up (having power)? Or am I off base. I am a little fuzzy on the workings of these components. I seem to remember something here and there but not enough to troubleshoot. I am running the Caravan pick up coil so I have no igniter. I remember something about something has to get a tach signal. A short rundown of what I am dealing with would be greatly appreciated. (already did a search but didn't quite find what I needed.

I know this is an old thread but DAMN its funny. "timing belt" on a quest LMAO oh no wait, ROFLMAO . oh and 160 at 6k rpm, glad you put in that 6 speed tranny

Yeah auto body guy should invest in an airdam. $4500 is not a great price at any rate with or without the airdam but surely not without one, and no mods either! Plus is it a joke when you say ONLY 179,000 miles ???