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swaping a g64b w/ g63t head for the g54b???


bboy1
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You can't do 2.0 to 2.7. You can probably do 2.4 to 2.7 though.

 

No you can't use a different bell housing because neither tranny has a removable bell housing. However the 2.0 tranny will work on the narrow blocks and the 2.4, 2.6 on the wide block.

 

 

I'm not quite sure what you mean by narrow blocks and wide blocks but here are some part numbers for your perusal

 

MD995334 Mitsubishi 2.0 liter Truck manual transmission assembly         (1985)

MD995334 Chrysler   2.6 liter Conquest manual transmission assembly (1988)

 

MD995437 Mitsubishi 2.6 liter Starion manual transmission assembly     (1988)

 

MD995287 Mitsubishi 2.4 liter Truck manual transmission assembly         (1986)

 

So my guess about this mess is the gearing on the transmissions.

There may be some bolthole differences between the 2.0 and the 2.4

But until I have one in front of me I couldn't tell you how far off the holes would be.

 

The difference in Part numbers for the Starion and the Conquest?

Maybe Mitsubishi was cheating the Conquest owners? Probably not.

 

All the numbers start with MD995 the suffix numbers could just be the gearing.

 

Which reminds me....

all this talk about engine and trans. swaps.

 

If you really want to go faster put bigger gears in the differential

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Mitsu has 2 different kinds of RWD trannis. Narro block which is 12" and some change and the wide which is 13" and some change.

 

Do you mean the width of the gear case?

 

Maybe the difference between auto an manual?

 

Or 4 and 5 speed?

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Do you mean the width of the gear case?

 

Maybe the difference between auto an manual?

 

Or 4 and 5 speed?

 

No I meant exactly what I said, one is wider block than the other therefore the gear case is also wider.

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No I meant exactly what I said, one is wider block than the other therefore the gear case is also wider.

 

I'm sorry I'm not getting it.. (I can be dense some time) You mean the engine block?

Which engine are you referring to the 2.6 or the 2.0?

Or the 2.0 compared to the 2.4?

Is it the V6 block thats wider than the 2.6?

 

http://www.sunbelt-software.com/stu/eye.htm

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I'm sorry I'm not getting it.. (I can be dense some time) You mean the engine block?

Which engine are you referring to the 2.6 or the 2.0?

Or the 2.0 compared to the 2.4?

Is it the V6 block thats wider than the 2.6?

 

http://www.sunbelt-software.com/stu/eye.htm

 

Ok I'm not understanding what is so hard to get. Basically there are two different a narrow one and a wide one.  One is 12 1/4 and the other is 13 1/4. I personally have never seen a wide 2.0 but I know for the 2.4 there is a narrow one and a wide one, depends on wether it was in a RWD car or in a FWD car.  I have never seen a 2.0 in wide configuration which is why I mentioned this, and if you want to use your tranny you will need to find a 2.4 block off of a RWD car that has the wide pattern so it can bolt up to your tranny. If you use the fwd block it is narrow like the 2.0 and will not bolt up. The 2.0 in fwd and in rwd both use narrowblocks so if you use a tranny from a 2.0 d50 then you need to find a 2.0 or 2.4 that is 12 1/4.

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this caught my eye, first off I don't own a conquest but rather a z car but my friend TSI-Rocket does I've been looking into swaping a head on to his when I was trying to do it for myself. After being unable to find a good head for my In line 6 I found a lot of intersting four cylinder heads. The most intersting was the 1982 Nissan FJ20 motor . It's a 16 Valve DOHC chain driving cylinder head. All of the bores, coolant, and bolt holes line up. The only thing that doesn't is the oil since the conquest oil pressure comes up the rear head bolt. This head would only need an Dry deck mod for the oil relocatioin and a way to hook up a distributor. Its really possible and sould be considered when trying to adapt cylinder head it's best to look at other manufacters then just your own. Hell I want to put an old Toyota head on mine but can't find any information on it. Well this is just my two cents look into it.

 

 

 

tbs

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  • 11 months later...
this caught my eye, first off I don't own a conquest but rather a z car but my friend TSI-Rocket does I've been looking into swaping a head on to his when I was trying to do it for myself. After being unable to find a good head for my In line 6 I found a lot of intersting four cylinder heads. The most intersting was the 1982 Nissan FJ20 motor . It's a 16 Valve DOHC chain driving cylinder head. All of the bores, coolant, and bolt holes line up. The only thing that doesn't is the oil since the conquest oil pressure comes up the rear head bolt. This head would only need an Dry deck mod for the oil relocatioin and a way to hook up a distributor. Its really possible and sould be considered when trying to adapt cylinder head it's best to look at other manufacters then just your own. Hell I want to put an old Toyota head on mine but can't find any information on it. Well this is just my two cents look into it.

 

 

 

tbs

 

Not really trying to bring back a year old topic or anything ;)...

I just find it interesting...Actually VERY interesting :)

All the bores, coolant, and bolt holes line up...

 

Does anyone have info on this Nissan motor, because i'm willing to bet we won't see this guy again...

Could you imagine? Go with a distrib. less system with coil packs...

It would be almost like when the Ford 2.3 guys found the Volvo DOHC head for their motors...

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Has anyone personally seen both the mighty max trannies. What is the difference between bolt patterns. I do believe that we have a hydro clutch and the d50 is cable ran. I have  2 fabricator friends. And I have a spare starion tranny available. I can get 1 of them to for surely make an adapter plate to fit our tranny. Because that would be the quickest fix just to get it runnin' and the cheapest option.  Im sure my friends could do it for dirt. Its just, How many should he do up?

 

I definatley want dohc and torque. a 2.4 block would kill. there is no good reason to stick with the 2.6 from a performance standpoint. Our cars are heavy and it cost twice as much to squeeze out the same numbers as the DSM guys. With that engine it eliminates the problems of multiport, dohc, parts support, and the stock ECU is the freakin bomb!! I wish I was like our dsm bretherin where the only thing they worry about breakin is their tranny. And thats AWD and 400hp stock bottom rather than 250hp and worrying that everything will break!

I dont know,

 

2.4 better balance of TQ & HP & Parts ;D

                                                       

                                                        2.6 75%TQ, 25%HP no parts :'(

 

Im sorry but Im near the end of my G54 leash. Tell you what, I never hear the DSM guys complaining about a lack of torque.

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Not really trying to bring back a year old topic or anything ;)...

I just find it interesting...Actually VERY interesting :)

All the bores, coolant, and bolt holes line up...

 

Does anyone have info on this Nissan motor, because i'm willing to bet we won't see this guy again...

Could you imagine? Go with a distrib. less system with coil packs...

It would be almost like when the Ford 2.3 guys found the Volvo DOHC head for their motors...

 

 

The FJ20 wasn't ever in a US Car from what I know or could find. That was the motor I was going to put in my old S12 once upon a time, but that was through an engine importer.

 

Joel

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Has anyone personally seen both the mighty max trannies. What is the difference between bolt patterns. I do believe that we have a hydro clutch and the d50 is cable ran. I have  2 fabricator friends. And I have a spare starion tranny available. I can get 1 of them to for surely make an adapter plate to fit our tranny. Because that would be the quickest fix just to get it runnin' and the cheapest option.  Im sure my friends could do it for dirt. Its just, How many should he do up?

 

If you want to use the 4g64(2.4l) then you don't have to worry about the tranny, as the stock SQ unit will bolt up...Being that the RWD truck 2.4L's have the wider bolt pattern... If you wish to use the 4g63(2.0l) then the tranny will have to be figured out... But the RWD 2.4 will bolt up... But a FWD won't..

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errr phinko

u may wanna take a closer look at dsms, they aren't all automatically fast. Some 16g tbi 2.6s will spank alot of 16g dsms

How many 3000+ lb DSMs run 12.4s @15psi on pump? not worth it, huh

Price some dsm cams, and a head.

DSm motors are 'old' now and due for a rebuild most likely, you'll spend the same there.

safc + hack mas + datalogger + laptop/palm needed to tune a mild dsm. Add it up vs a 'superior' $630 sds fuel only. Stock 2.6 intake not expensive to mpi hack.

Too many folks get caught up in trying to change the character of the 2.6 (with dohc for eg.) instead of enhancing its strengths, like the GN guys do. Hot GNs hardly ever loose to any dohc or whine about their 2 valve heads. In fact, alot of the dsm tuning tricks were adopted from the GN crowd.

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there r quite a few. Didn't u know that ? Some 11s, some even 10s.

Apply the effort, its at simple as that. No free lunch here.

Since u claim 2.6 is not worth it, I'm saying to pick any 'equal performing' dsm u like (should be lots, eh?), and lets have a look at what it took to run 12.4s at only 15psi... just for 5h1.ts & giggles.

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What does 15psi really matter? Don't get me wrong, i'm for either engine in the end. To me the motors are way to different to try and compare. I see the g54b as what it is, a low RPM torque monster...The 4g63 is more of the top end geared/wanna scream till it hurts ;D kind of engine... LOL   Truthfully, I will prolly own both engine's in two different SQ's..

 

I find good things about both motors, despite the 2.6's fuel design... In the end with the same builds, I honestly can't decide...

 

That's the EXACT reason I pulled this thread from last year, is to find out about this Nissan DOHC head that will supposedly fit the 2.6L...That's the ultimate for me.

 

I mean, the DOHC 2.4L hybrid is better than the g54b...For me ;)

More torque than HP, yet it can still rev to 7-7.5K... The biggest reason I'm wanting to do this is because of the head flow. A fully race ported 1G head will out flow any 2.6's head...

 

I dunno though, 15psi is used in this how?  Does is really matter how much psi you're running?  For bench racing, probably..Personally I could care less how much the civic next to me is boosting, or spraying etc...

 

 

I just brought it up because 15psi is going to be different between turbo's(you knew that though :))

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why 15psi? we're dealing with FACTS right ? This is only one example I chose because its recent, and a very simple formula, don't u think?

wanna 'bench race' ?

turn up the boost, thats a hi 11sec car.

Run auto tranny, collect very low 11s timeslips

An 80shot will make it a 10sec daily driven 4cyl. Worth it ?

I don't care about anybodys powerplant choice, just trying to understand the reasoning. I own/like em both. lucky me, huh. heheh

Wanna compare prices?

dsm t3/t4 conversions go ~$12-1700+.

rev a 4g, price an intake manifold and cam/valvetrain mods and don't forget to add aqusition of a motor plus the swap.

I don't see dohc being any easier/cheaper. Maybe u guys are seeing something I don't.

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well if you would like to light this post up, fine. I dont have to point any 10,11,12 sec dsm's they are everywhere (www.dsmtuners.com for ex) Where are all these 11,12 sec starquest you speak of? Ive been on here and tristarion for almost 3 years and havent seen nothing but eip replays. Thank god for Lizzord and BMWtech.  Enlighten me I would like to know

 

Im not against any of you all sticking with the 2.6, just against me stickin with them. Ive wasted too much cash and gotten nothing  back compared to my buddies eclipse with $2000 less smoking the crap out of me. I spend more time hating my car then driving it and being happy.

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Jinx...I see where you're coming from. I just have a passion for both motors, 2.6 drag and 2.4 daily driver... 15psi is fine, but are we comparing a 2.6 and a 2.0L or a 2.6 and a 2.4L? The 2.4 is a different animal all together.. It has the torque capability of the 2.6 but also has better revving/flow abilities.. Like I said before, it's gonna depend on what you're trying to do with the car... For me, it's best for me just to use both motors... I really love them both, but they shine in different area's.

 

The prices for parts kind of equal each other out... When modding anyways.. The 2.6 needs a $1400-2000 upgrade to even match the 2.4... MPI

 

Like I said before, a totally stock 1G head will flow nearly the same as a ported 2.6 head... That's the name of the game for me, flow. You want power, you need flow..

 

What good is running huge boost if your motor can't digest it all, smoothly?

 

 

As for the 15psi thing... That's cool for comparing reasons.. But what turbo are we going to compare with?  A big 16G?  A td06 17C?

 

We could use the stock turbo's, but what kind of fun is that?  :)  DSM's can get into the low 12's, maybe even the high 11's with the 14b without NOS... Something a 12a could never do, but that's not really fair though, and I know that... The turbo's are too different.

 

So to be fair, we need to find a DSM that can match mods with...Say the Tainters...I don't feel it's very fair to comare a TBi SQ to a MPI DSM...

 

So, a DSM running stock pistons and rods etc.. with a T3/T4 at 15psi...

 

I was going to bring up the fact that the 4G series engines can handle 400HP before the internal's need to be addressed.. But with a MPI the 2.6 might just do the same..

Time will tell..

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I would like to correct a mistake I made in my post about trany bolt patteren for a 2.4 engine .  I have a 2.4 engine out of a 87 mitubishi van with fuel injection and it is the same as a 2.6 quest engine.  so either the 5 speed or quest auto or the van auto which is the asian borgwarner trany ( better) will bolt up thus solving the trany problem.   But the out put shaft   is a different size spline so a custom drive shaft with bigger ujoints is needed,as the auto ujoints are farly small.  also a DASH head will bolt up with a problem with water jackets and should flow as much as the twin cam, two very large intake valves.

Mark_T

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That's seems even better to me, needing larger yokes/driveshaft/u-Joints... I can dig it..

 

The DASH head.. It's SOHC isn't it? The J-spec 2.0L Starion...

 

That's a hard head to obtain... There's a few heads that I think would work with the 4g64... Or are we talking about the g64b?  I'm not sure of the difference, but i'll find out.  One question, does that Van engine have 16 valves? I know that stock it's SOHC. But I believe the newer FWD 4g64 has sohc/16V's..I think, i'll look for it again to find out for sure.. I'm just wondering if it looks like a 4g64, for the passages that need to be plugged etc... I'm thinking the g64b is the RWD and the 4g64 is the FWD block...

 

The DOHC 1G head(I believe) outflows the 2G head, as well as the intake manifold. The port's are much larger on the 1G head..

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Now that I think about it... You wouldn't have to mess with the driveshaft if you used the stock SQ tranny, right?  But if I wanted to use the Asian Borg Warner tranny, then a custom setup is needed.... Am I thinking right?

 

I'm curious, what makes the Asian B.W. tranny better than the SQ's auto?  

 

I mean, you could do valve body mods to that one, just like the SQ's..So there must be better clutches/parts etc...

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So Do I get credit if it works?

I was the original poster.

 

Im just happy to see that others are interested with the Idea. Honestly I hate the 2.6 g54. In 3 years I went through 4 bottom ends & 2 Complete Remans. I tried different break in methods, oil, bearings, race preped rods, all the crap did not hold up. Ive never seen a car spin as many bearings in my life. I dont know who said that a g54b bottom end is bullet proof... they must be granny shifting and only taking it around the block on sundays. Ive had a few starquests and with frequent oil changes they only lasted about 3500 miles before I had to tear them down, and replace the #2 or # 3 rod bearing. I tried reman long blocks and different machine shops and all of it was for nothing. My car was garage kept without my will.

 

Anyway, Im not sure what head you guys are thinking of running, but Im going to do a 2.0 / 2.4 Hybrid. I have a rwd 2.4 D50 Block and a 2.0 1 gen head. The block has 4 Water passages that need to be filled  before assembly. I like the 2.0 head because of the available parts. SS Exhaust Manifold, Custom Intakes w/ LT1 or 5.0 TB's, better springs, valves... etc.  Anything that a DSM 2.0 guy can bolt on we can too. Plus you can get a Cyclone with 8 Injectors (4 Primary & 4 Secondary) Relocate the TB to the other side and you have your self a Real Good Intake. Granted the cyclone is known to suck on 2.0's, but Im sure it has more potential than our crappy 2 Injector setup or the Aussy MPI. Plus you can use a $50 2 gen ECM rather than a $2,000 Haltech.

 

Why should we settle for the original Motor when the V8 boys havent in 50 Years.

All us Starquest fans always talk a good game, but we all know that there are only a handful of us that really back it up. Granted are cars are good to go up against older Stangs, but the newer technology is leaving us behind.

 

I hope you guys get it going and we get to revolutionize the Starquest Scene. It would be nice to see more options for Starquests.

 

BTW wiseco sells the pistons for the 2.0/2.4 conversion. I guess alot of DSM are doing the hybrid.

 

Thanks,

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