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swaping a g64b w/ g63t head for the g54b???


bboy1
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Anyways, I told him about the swap into a Starion. He says the engine mount locations are the exact same as the 4g63.

 

No they are not. Even if they where, what does that mean? Nothing you still have to make custom motor mounts. You guys are worrying about the wrong things. You should be worried about other more custom parts of this swap that most of you don't seem to realize you will confront.

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i was looking into doing a 4 valve sohc head on the 2.6 block.  mitsu made a bunch of sohc 4 valve cars, eclipse for one, i think it was the 2.4l in the non turbo spyders.  and the rocker arms have the same ID as the ones on my car.  if you can contract out a company to fab a caravan head with 4valves from the mitsu 2.4 you could still use the same timing components, the chain, gear, cam, roller rocker assy and you would get the 4 valves without much hassle.  i know alabama cylinder head casts new caravan heads for $250.  if you could get two donor heads that they could use for a mold and then got a GP it would cost way less then a full motor swap.  the thing holding me back is money but i say its the easiest way to get 4valve head.
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O.k

 

As stated above, the mounts won't be in the same location. Yeah, that's because it's going in RWD. The mounting locations ARE the same between the 4G63 and the 4G64. That's why it's such an ideal swap for Eclipse's. Why would I need to fabricate mounts when the D-50 mounts work for the 4G63? And if the mounting location is the same between the 2.0 and the 2.4, what's the problem?

 

In the picture that was highlighted above, the highlighted part was on the left side or rear part of the engine if flipped for RWD. Inbetween that highlighted mount and the alternator is a bracket of some kind. Is this the location used for the 4G63 swap, the engine mounts?

 

John

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My point was that it does not matter if the eclipse mounts the same way. If you use that back part to mount it the engine will sit too far forward. Either way it seems like I talk to a lot of people who think they know exactly how to do the swap yet there are problably less than 5 starquest that are 4g63 powered in the us.
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So then, the 4G64 will bolt into the Starion engine bay with use of D-50 motor mounts. Right?

 

This swap is a number one priority for me as far as engine swaps go. I don't like the sound/feel of a 2.0 so I opted to go this route. The hardest, or most expensive part of the whole swap is going to be getting a bellhousing custom made to fit the block on the 4G64/63 hybrid. After that, it's only a custom driveshaft away.

 

I was thinking of either going with the Toyota tranny that has been used before, T-58 or something like that. Or if i'm going to get a bellhousing "adapted", I was thinking about a Richmond Gear six speed tranny. I just have to play around with gear ratio's and such.

 

John

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So then, the 4G64 will bolt into the Starion engine bay with use of D-50 motor mounts. Right?

 

This swap is a number one priority for me as far as engine swaps go. I don't like the sound/feel of a 2.0 so I opted to go this route. The hardest, or most expensive part of the whole swap is going to be getting a bellhousing custom made to fit the block on the 4G64/63 hybrid. After that, it's only a custom driveshaft away.

 

I was thinking of either going with the Toyota tranny that has been used before, T-58 or something like that. Or if i'm going to get a bellhousing "adapted", I was thinking about a Richmond Gear six speed tranny. I just have to play around with gear ratio's and such.

 

John

 

 

I did not say it would bolt up, I have no idea if the d50 mounts will work. My car has custom motor mounts.

 

You don't like the feel of the 2.0? I think you guys are not doing this in the correct order. A stock 6 bolt 4G63 is what you should all be bolting on. You can make 500whp on a stock 2.0 if your doing and as far as I know it is way easier than doing it on a 2.6. You can keep stock ecu, don't have to have a custom sheetmetal intake and standalone just to get going etc. If you want to do the 2.4 then that is fine, more power to you because anybody would love that motor I'm just talking cost effective here.

 

I mean you make it sound easy and maybe it is just that easy for you but I know for me it is not, you need to modify the intake, modify water pipe, modify driveshaft, get adapter plate for whatever tranny you used. My car has W58 tranny, you need move the shifter location, you need to redo the wiring obviously etc. Lots of little little things that will take time and I'm sure I'm forgetting many of them. This is not a swap you will just do in a weekend. If your keeping you power steering you will need to modify the lines etc.

 

You might think you want to use the D50 tranny but I hear you talking big hp #s and I tell you it will not handle the kind of power you want to make and tq especially from the big 2.4.

 

 

It is not too hard dont get me wrong, just sounds like you make it seem like it is as easy as your average honda b-series swap that can be done in a day.

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 :) I know that it's not going to be a weekend warrior job in the least. I'm think it'll take me 3-4 years before it's completed. I'm accumulating parts for this as we speak. I can get ahold of the DOHC 4G64 that came in the Galant. So the whole head swap might not even be necessary. That's at least 1200 dollars saved right there. I plan on doing the swap in the beginning of November. Using a 4G63 that I have unlimited access to.

 

The plan is, to do the whole 2.0 liter swap. Possibly upgrade the turbo to a 16g and get bigger injectors. That's it, until I can get ahold of either the dual or single cam 4G64. I'll build the DOHC 4G64 in my garage for as long as it takes, until it's done.

 

It should look similar to this:

Bored 4G64 to 2.5 liters at least, maybe stroked. I've heard of this motor being stroked and bored to 2.7 liters. It'll have custom forged JE's, either 8.5:1 or 9:1 compression. Shot peened, knife edged, and all the rest... I'll have to talk to my machinist friend about the lack of oil squirters in the 4G64, and maybe put some in.

An electric water pump and a remote located oil filter set-up are also in the plans.

 

The Turbo will be a version of either a T3/T4 hybrid, or a T4. It will be built according to the engine characteristics solely... Then the intake manifold will be made to suit whatever turbo I decide on.

 

The following will be ceramic coated:

 

Exhaust manifold

Intake manifold

Block & valve cover

Downpipe and exhaust

Exhaust side of turbo

Spearco intercooler

Hardpipes

Hard water line(s)

 

 

The pistons will also be treated to Swain Tech heat coatings. For possible detonation insurance.

 

Also, and rack and pinion power steering set-up will be made.

 

So, as posted long ago...

The 4G63 swap with (your) W-58 Toyota tranny properly installed with all custom machining and parts should cost you between $4200-$4800. This info came from the guy who built your car.

 

With this swap done, it'll be my daily driver. Until the 4G64 monster is created and able to drop in. After that, it's all tuning and upping the boost.

 

All in all, it should cost around $12000-$15000 to complete the 4G63 swap in working order, as well as the building costs of the 4G64 with dual cams, and the six-speed tranny. Plus i'll still have the 4G63 with a Toyota W-58 five speed, to put into another Starion, if I choose.

 

A Jaguar rear-end is also on my mind constantly. The rear end itself is around $1500 and has the inboard disk brakes. Fully independant also.

 

John

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Somebody's got some money to throw around.  I'd like to track how it goes for you.  Keep us updated.  I dont really see how it could cost that much if you have friends with machines and use junkyard parts.
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I dont think you some of you guys are getting my point....

 

The 90's Mighty Max or D50 came with a 2.4 that had our tranny. The block fits a larger bell housing and is already rear wheel drive.  The 2.0 head fits on it as long as you plug the 5 extra holes...

 

So why complicate things with FWD motor mounts and toyota trannys'...

when all you need is the rwd 2.4 block, jdm 2.0 cyclone intake, head, and cpu.... 2 new motor mounts and patience. I forgot to mention the pistons and some stuff, but still its much cheaper, easier to get, and more reliable with comparable HP gains...

 

Im not choppin my car up cause its mint. The 2.0 w/ a toy trans is a bad idea, but I wouldnt mind to have new technology under the hood. the 2.6 is a piece of crap.... no matter what you do, or who builds it, it blows. Im sick of spun bearings and broken rockers the thing wont hold 300hp reliably let alone the 500hp everyone brags about. Maybe thats why mitsu gave up on it too....

I have 3 2.6 blown engines for sale for anyone holding on to their sakura dream car... Good Luck

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What does it matter if I use a 2.4 from the FWD cars or the RWD trucks? It doesn't. The mounting locations are the same when mounted for RWD. The FWD 2.4 still has the brackets that the motor mounts connect to. Why keep the truck tranny? Is it able to handle 450+hp? Probably not. Which do you think is easier to find? The D-50 five speed or the Toyota W-58 that came in numerous RWD cars? The W-58 is way more abundant, cheaper to find and cheaper to build up. Just ask PiercedJD, if you can locate him.

 

As I stated above, the 2.0 4G63T will go into the SQ with the Toyota W-58 tranny for a daily driver until the bored and stroked 2.4 4G64T is built. The final plan includes a SIX SPEED TRANNY. What mitsubishi truck came with that? Exactly.

 

So, when done, i'll have a SQ with a turbocharged intercooled, dual cam 2.7 liter, backed by a Richmond Gear Six speed close ratio transmission. Also, i'll have a SQ with the 4G63T mated to the Toyota W-58, for whatever.

 

What's wrong with that? Kill two birds with one stone...

 

John

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All sounds good to me.  I think he was just telling you that for someone us other guys looking to do this for less money, that is another route.   Also, does anyone know if our 2.6L tranny will bolt to the 2.4L truck block?  I heard it might, anyone know for sure?

 

Flexer

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So why complicate things with FWD motor mounts and toyota trannys'...

when all you need is the rwd 2.4 block, jdm 2.0 cyclone intake, head, and cpu.... 2 new motor mounts and patience. I forgot to mention the pistons and some stuff, but still its much cheaper, easier to get, and more reliable with comparable HP gains...

 

I dont think your getting it, he is not talking about using fwd motor mounts, he is saying the mountain location not using the fwd motor mounts. JDM cyclone intake is s***.

 

If you want to use the starion tranny with the wide block more power to you.

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Ok has anyone read the begining of this thread..... I wrote it. I dont car what you want to do to you car. Im not saying my idea is better for you and your ideas suck.

The point I was trying to make when I started this thread was about the LargeBell Housing 2.4 w/ a 2.0 head on our tranny with only motor mount fabrications and throttle body relocation. Im trying to keep my car a "sleeper and reliable & cheaper". If you want to talk about "fast drag cars" or dropping 25k on a chopped up car start your own thread.... dont change the subject of the thread. If you want to talk about a frankenstein car why dont we all drop a 500ci big block chevy twin turbo on nitro methane, and gut the thing to hell. I think we can get it to 2800 HP maybe we can break 4 sec in a 1/4 @ 235mph w/ a toyota tranny. Bla Bla Bla So do you get what Im saying..... Respect the thread... It was posted for a reason. I dont mind suggestions, but dont burn the topic up.

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I am just loving this post

 

JUSTPAS_88TSi wrote:

I'm looking to mod/fabricate the hell out of my car to achieve total street dominance.

 

I'm looking closer to the 6G72 I found the bell housing I want

 

ME580751

 

But then I was thinking of the option to place it in a midengine position with a cradle in the back seat trunk area.

in the words of Peter Boyle in Mel Brook's"Young Frankenstein" ""Mmm Mmm!!!!""

 

 

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so wait if you can bore a 2.0 out to 2.7 why the hell can't you bore out a 2.0 DOHC head and put it on our block??  

 

Displacement doesn't have anything to do with matching parts.

 

You can not bore heads you can port them but not bore them.

 

The G54B engine is physically longer than the 4G63.

 

The thing I want to state is the the 2.0 & 2.4 truck engine from the D-50 mighty max

uses same transmission as the StarQuest. You may have to use a different bell housing but they are basically the same.

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Displacement doesn't have anything to do with matching parts.

 

You can not bore heads you can port them but not bore them.

 

The G54B engine is physically longer than the 4G63.

 

The thing I want to state is the the 2.0 & 2.4 truck engine from the D-50 mighty max

uses same transmission as the StarQuest. You may have to use a different bell housing but they are basically the same.

 

You can't do 2.0 to 2.7. You can probably do 2.4 to 2.7 though.

 

No you can't use a different bellhousing because neither tranny has a removable bellhousing. However the 2.0 tranny will work on the narrow blocks and the 2.4, 2.6 on the wide block.

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Ok, first I have to admit I didn't read all the posts. I to be frank got tired of hearing the same things over and over. We don't have a dohc engine and in factory condition it won't make power above about 5k rpm.

 

First, the true purpose of the dohc is to get more air in the cylinders. Well, there are several ways around that. Anyone ever heard of puting larger valves in your heads?? The dohc heads have smaller valves than ours in stock condition so why not add an even bigger valve? From that point on you can also port the heck out of your intake, head, tb ect. More boost pressure will also increase the air getting in the cylinders. You DO NOT need dohc to run fast!!

 

Second, these long stroke engines are capable of high rpms. Mine has all the stock parts except an excell supper coil, a cone filter, and a cold air intake pipe. My car pulls hard to 6500 rpm. All you have to do get more rpm is increase the air flow and lighten the rotating assembly, its that simple. I know several people with big block chevy's and dodges turning 10k rpm!!! Lighten your flywheel and if you want to get radical with it lighten the counter throws on the crank (make sure you have it balanced if you do that)

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