MommasQuest Posted March 4, 2009 Report Share Posted March 4, 2009 (edited) OK...I'm back!!! I don't know what to do with this car! We have replaced the fuel pump, cap, rotor, pick up, plugs, wires, fuel filters, MAF, ignitor box, valve cover gasket (just needed it), exhaust gasket and turbo gasket. NO loose vacuum lines and plenty of gas from the injectors. WHEW! I love the car, but it is beginning to be a money pit and if I can't get it running soon, I may just have to move on to something else...it's DEPRESSING! It starts and runs for about 10 seconds and dies. I am at a loss. PLEASE HELP! Edited March 4, 2009 by MommasQuest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEPORE Posted March 5, 2009 Report Share Posted March 5, 2009 OK...I'm back!!! I don't know what to do with this car! We have replaced the fuel pump, cap, rotor, pick up, plugs, wires, fuel filters, MAF, ignitor box, valve cover gasket (just needed it), exhaust gasket and turbo gasket. NO loose vacuum lines and plenty of gas from the injectors. WHEW! I love the car, but it is beginning to be a money pit and if I can't get it running soon, I may just have to move on to something else...it's DEPRESSING! It starts and runs for about 10 seconds and dies. I am at a loss. PLEASE HELP! how about the fuel pump relay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted March 5, 2009 Report Share Posted March 5, 2009 What year is your car? Does it have spark? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dstar88 Posted March 5, 2009 Report Share Posted March 5, 2009 will it keep running if you keep your foot on the gass?? for the 10 seconds that it does run, does it sound good?? or sound like a v-twin motorcycle(like a plop plop plop plop)?? i havnt read through the last thread you posted, but have you checked the engine codes yet?? something could be out of spec to keep it from running, and an engine code might help you to figure out what is out of spec, or what the problem could be. Daniel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vnomous1 Posted March 5, 2009 Report Share Posted March 5, 2009 OK...I'm back!!! I don't know what to do with this car! We have replaced the fuel pump, cap, rotor, pick up, plugs, wires, fuel filters, MAF, ignitor box, valve cover gasket (just needed it), exhaust gasket and turbo gasket. NO loose vacuum lines and plenty of gas from the injectors. WHEW! I love the car, but it is beginning to be a money pit and if I can't get it running soon, I may just have to move on to something else...it's DEPRESSING! It starts and runs for about 10 seconds and dies. I am at a loss. PLEASE HELP! Sounds like a lot of stuff has been changed! I dont rememberr the last thread either. Running crappy for 5 or 10 seconds? Are you positive the fuel injectors are good? the coil? These symptoms make me think something with the timing is going on too. Have you changed the timing chain? If not, do you know what condidtion it is in? It may have possibly "skipped a tooth". Miles on the engine? Double check the timing and ensure it is correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vnomous1 Posted March 5, 2009 Report Share Posted March 5, 2009 (edited) OK...I'm back!!! I don't know what to do with this car! We have replaced the fuel pump, cap, rotor, pick up, plugs, wires, fuel filters, MAF, ignitor box, valve cover gasket (just needed it), exhaust gasket and turbo gasket. NO loose vacuum lines and plenty of gas from the injectors. WHEW! I love the car, but it is beginning to be a money pit and if I can't get it running soon, I may just have to move on to something else...it's DEPRESSING! It starts and runs for about 10 seconds and dies. I am at a loss. PLEASE HELP! Whats up with your exhaust system? original cats? Edited March 5, 2009 by Vnomous1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19cturbo Posted March 5, 2009 Report Share Posted March 5, 2009 check injectors clean the clips.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted March 5, 2009 Report Share Posted March 5, 2009 I would see if Shelby and his son can get over there to take a look at it for you. They should be able to tell you what is wrong at least. You pretty much need to verify some things are correct first. 1. Make sure the fuel pressure stays constant at 36 - 39 PSI or so. You have to have a fuel pressure gauge on the throttle body to monitor the pressure there. There is a plug on the back of the TB where you can insert a pressure gauge. You whould be able to find one cheap at a parts house. 1/8" NPT will go right in. You should only be getting gas from the black injector. 2. Keep a timing light on the number 1 plug wire while it is running for the few seconds and watch the pulses. If the pulses go out just before it quits, then you know it is losing spark. You aren't looking at the timing itself, just pulse the light to a dark place where you can see it good. Make sure the light is blinking at a steady pace too and that the light is not getting weaker every second, etc.... 3. Check cam timing: Get #1 piston at TDC: Pull the #1 plug and put a wad of tissue barely jammed in the spark plug hole. Gently bump the starter until the wad blows out. Now turn the crank with a 22mm socket, clockwise by hand until the crank pulley timing mark is at zero or "T" on the timing cover markings. Now pull the Valve Cover and check to see if the dowel pin on the cam gear is at 12:00. 4. Make sure the injector clips/wire pigtails are brand new and soldered on. Make sure the male pins in the injectors themselves are not corroded. The main focus is on the primary injector which is the black one toward the driver's fender of the car. If that isn't making good connection, the car will not idle. 5. Make sure no vac hoses are hanging off. 6. Remove the igniter connector for 15 seconds and try it again. A bad igniter will sometimes not start again unless the power to it is cycled (turned on and off). Disconnecting the battery for a few seconds will do this too. 7. Make sure the air flow sensor electrical connection is solid. i.e. disconnect it and examine all of the male pins and female sockets. Also try unclipping the filter box lid and start the engine again. If it stays running then there is blockage in the air intake somewhere, like the filter is clogged. You didn't say you replaced the air filter when you replaced the MAF. 8. A spare ignition coil might be worth a try. Also, the little wires connected to the coil can come on and off. They are cheap little spade connectors that may be too loose. Take some pliers and squeeze the female a little so it grabs the male spade on the coil better. 9. Remove the belts and try starting it then. This removes all load from the engine. If there is a pulley that is locked up or very hard turning, it can run for a few seconds and then shut down. It would most likely make noise when running, but not always. It would pretty much have to be the AC belt stopping it. 10. Check the IGN fuse link wire, and all fuse links on the box betwen the coil and battery. Clean them, remove the box and turn it upside down to check for corrosion, check the main connector that feed the wire harness to the box. Any corrosion in there can cause the car to start and stop, etc.. Many problems result from bad connections here. Also make sure the fuse link wires themselves are intact and not melted/burned up. Sometimes it is hard to tell if they are burned on the inside. Feel them and visually inspect them closely for integrity. 11. Put a volt meter on the TPS and check it for operation according to the FSM. 12. Disconnect the coolant temp sensor (one to ECU not gauge) and start it again to see if problem changes. Other possibilities are ignition switch, clogged exhaust, control relay, ECU, Igniter. Many times I start with the ECU connector pins and check for voltages and Ohms, etc.. according to what the manual says should be there with the key in the run position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jehu Posted March 5, 2009 Report Share Posted March 5, 2009 If this is an 86 or older, it sounds just like an issue I've faced twice. Both times it was an injector not firing right. It cranks because the ECU dumps fuel for first/primary ignition and the engine will run on that for a few seconds (even though only one injector is working, it's still enough to let it run for a bit). Then the ECU starts to cut back and the bad injector kicks in and the engine does not get enough fuel so it dies. Try to mash the throttle (before it dies) and then slightly feather it. Will it run doing this repeatedly? If this works, it works because the TPS tells the ECU that the TB went WOT or so and the ECU dumps fuel (more than enough to keep it running for a few more seconds). So, if this is the case, pull the OVCP and have a helper crank the engine while watching the injectors. If it helps, only have one injector connected at a time (I had a hard time telling one wasn't firing since one was). You can do this regardless if you have an 86 or older... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted March 5, 2009 Report Share Posted March 5, 2009 first thing you need to do is STOP replaceing parts and do some trouble shooting ,, trouble shooting does not cost you any money and the beauty of it is you only replace parts you can prove are bad,, stop looking at the whole car,, test one system at a time and do the entire sub system not a part here and a part there ,,once thru with one system move to another and do the same thing with it,, this way you find and fix all problems not just the ones you luck into finding simply put theres only a few system to test,, fuel supply,, pump relays , filters , reg etc ecu power..this is easy a voltage test at sensors will tell you if the ecu is active or not,, a simple volt meter will test ALL sensors use'd mechanical,, a compression test will tell you the engines mechanical condition ign spark and coil,, again not a complicate'd system injs and inj power to them,, inj pulse signal from ecu like this engine starts and runs for 10 sec's ,,ok test for fuel pump power at the test connector near the air filter houseing with test lamp,, the lamp will be lite if the pump is reciveing power after the engine has start'd ,if it does not then test the main relay , pump feed wire is blk/white ,to se eif the relayis the problem jump 12 volts to the test connector and see if the engine now stays runing you must use spacifive tests to find the problem guessing and replaceing parts will only make the problem harder to find , and cost you many times more money then you should have had to pay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts