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Reringing block while in car..


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I have reached the midway point of my current project on the Quest.  I had/have low compression in #3.  I cant afford a full rebuild right now so I decided to throw a 220 grit hone on #3 and a new set of rings.  I will be posting pics of the project, but while I was at it I decided to

 

1: Install a BSE kit

2: New timing chain/sprockets/tensioners/guides

3: Rings on#3 with 220 grit home

4: new drive belts

5: Degrease all parts that came off

6: New oring on oil pump pickup

7: Paint of all disassembled parts.

8: New end link bushings for front sway bar.

9: Arp stud install

10: Schneider spring install

 

 

I will be posting pics tonite as I did not have the camera ready but I must say the disasembly was quick and easy (With the aid of an electric impact wrench!)

 

THe head came right off with the exhaust and intake manifold attached. (amazing once u do this one or two times how fast it seems to go).

 

Wish me luck (gotta keep that crank clean!)

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To keep crap out of crank holes run a couple of layers of masking tape around each journal. If you have over 100,000 miles on the engine , make sure you brake the glase as the bores seem to get very hard and honing  is very inportant to make sure the rings seat in  well.  Let us know if the oil rings are pluged up with corbon.

Mark_T

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I used some saran wrap and tape around the rod journals and crank.  I stuffed newspaper in to try to keep it clean.   I ended up using ATF as a lube, and I had a nasty scratch in the bore.  One of the compression rings was broken, (I think thats the source of the scratch).   The oil holes in the pistons had some carbon, but all in all the piston cleaned up well with degreaser.   I got it all down (head off, timing cover stuff off) and got the BSE kit in, piston back in (With new rings using my homemade ring compressor (two hose clamps and a rubber mallet).  Rod bolts snugged up, oil pump and new timing chain and guides back on wshew....  Had to stop will resume today.  Got some pics up

This is what it looks like so far.  (need to clean up those frame rails they look nasty. This car was very greasy and the engine seems like it was sitting in dirt the whole bottom was caked.

 

http://home.mindspring.com/~dcrasta/Img0006/bseinstalled.jpg

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believe it or not Autozone has them .  U have to get the correct length but they have them for like 20 bucks .  U get the utherane bushings (4) and the link wit hardware.  The kit is made by energy suspension.  I had purchased them for my Rx7 and saw that they were the same size (And since the Rx7 was for sale I decided to keep the link kit!)
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Yeah but I gouged one of my cam bearings in the head when I was doing the valve springs (and discovered I have non turbo valves :(   )  I will probably run it anyway but Im getting an insert.  U think the stock rod bolts and bearings will be a problem? I havent buttoned it all up yet.. opinions matter!

 

Hugh

(started a new job monday so I havent had much time to play with the problem child.)

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well, i don't think it will matter, really. when i re-ringed my engine, i put ARP rod bolts and clevite 77 bearings in and it only took about a month and a half to spin two of those bearings, so i would actually reccomend re-using the stock stuff.

 

but obviously if you take the engine to a machine shop they will regrind it and stuff. that's where you would replace bolts and bearings.

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:(  I hate to think thats whats gonna happen to me.  Actually I have been spending all my time hunting down parts for an 88 Rx7 Turbo II I picked up .  Body work (need new fender, bumper, bumper support, and some minor straightening of the front radiator support ) seems easier than finishing off the problem Conquest for now.  Seafoamed the cylinders and plopped the head back on.  Will probably finish it this weekend hopefully so I can make MIR on the 30th (in time to throw a rod probably!)

 

Hmm, them rotaries looking nicer and nicer to me lately .. heheh

Oh well, gotta keep the Quest she got 4 seats and I got to finish it for the 'pride'

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DC  my friend  what you smokein,,  lets open them eyes  and  look at what we're doing,,  stay  off the  sudsy stuff  or any thing  with a pop a top

 

you need to look at that   cam gear a little more   ;D  ::)  :-[

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Ok Dirt isnt the problem I got the crossmember clean and wrapped it.  The problem was when I was replacing the valve springs (with the head off the car) the spring compressor tool started to break as I was on spring #7 and using my Mcgivver skills, I had a set of vice grips holding the spring compressor together and it came in contact with the bearing shell that was in my reman head, so I had to get a new insert for that.  The rod bolts seem ok, I may have left the car in gear (it was late, I was tired, and trying to turn the motor to reposition it and it was in gear (DOH!)) so im just replacing the bearing shells in the head with the same ones that were there before the got gouged.   That pic was a before I repositioned the cam/gear/crank to tdc etc.  I will be hopefully finishing this tonight and tomorrow because I started a new job, got a Rx7 to fix (just picked it up 2 weeks ago and trying to get all the parts so the collision shop can fix the damage) and finish the Quest, and read this Intrusion signatures and analysis book (arrgh!) .. so im a busy little dude.. (too busy to be smoking and drinking and partying and getting greasy..)(well not too busy to be getting greasy) .. Im driving a Lebaron wagon now (hahah) (but its turbo!)

 

Anyway wshew.. My dsl connection has been down at home all week so my only internet connection is at work.  Will post more later!

 

Hugh

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hehe  what i was refering to  is the  cam gear  is,,,,,,,,, install'd backwards

 

and what  brg shells you talking about in the head,,  has the  cam  brg  area been line bore'd and  brg's install'd in the head

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  • 1 month later...

Ahh some things have gone really well.

 

Compression (ear test) and car running smooth after being late 1 tooth on the cam.  Fixed that and reset the firing order (1 - 3  - 4 - 2  ) and we in there.  Need a vacuum advance.  And a car wash.. (here are some pics )

 

http://home.mindspring.com/~hughbriggs/bay1.jpg

 

 

 

 

New BSE kit in there so oil pressure is right at the mid mark for idle.  Sweet!  Using some russell steel line for the turbo water hose now.  Other than that going to replace intakes fast as possibe.  Sorry about size of the second pic but if u look at the pulleys you can see it turning(look at the tip of the water pump)  Yeah Im cleaning up the bay soon (this weekend) and making her look purdy.. (soon and very soon we are going to crze around)

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That is an Earls SS Banjo fitting (AN 6) and Earls Steel braided #6 line.   I reused the stock banjo bolt (drilled out slightly you dont want to make it weak) and fresh copper sealing washers .  Works great.  I used lots of silicone spray to squeeze it on the thermostat side.  I plan on replacing all my coolant lines with Steel braided (will probably carry backup line)  I will loom it off eventually but for now I had to get it going :)  My stock line had a crack so I could not use it.
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  • 2 weeks later...

This seems to be going well now im installing these http://home.mindspring.com/~dcrasta/advance.jpg (this is the Vacuum advance)

 

http://home.mindspring.com/~dcrasta/coil.jpg This is the coil

 

Doing the fuel filters now also so far so good!

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;D ;D  Running great.

New injector clips. Had a bad secondary injector :( replaced it now its great

Need to do the filters and will be doing that soon.  Breaking in the new rings so my boost is the factory limit of 10 :)  Cleaned the car up after not washing it for about 6 months... Here are 2 pics..

http://home.mindspring.com/~dcrasta/ngin.jpg

http://home.mindspring.com/~dcrasta/questnobra.jpg

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