chiplee Posted February 16, 2003 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2003 Anyone had time to try hooking up their BOV this way yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jr_ss Posted February 28, 2003 Report Share Posted February 28, 2003 I hooked mine up like youy said Chip but i'm waiting on a primary injector then I'll let you know of any difference. Thanks for doing the research. I'll defiantly let you know how mine worked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjnitke Posted March 7, 2003 Report Share Posted March 7, 2003 Are there pics of this BOV install yet? I don't have a BOV on my car and am curios to see the asthetic difference as well as hear the audible differnce and feel the performance difference. I am still running a stock turbo......will it matter? Thanks. 8) RJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zactek Posted March 8, 2003 Report Share Posted March 8, 2003 I hooked up mine today and started it, but didn't drive it yet. I'll post the difference once I drive it tomorrow. : Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbide Posted March 8, 2003 Report Share Posted March 8, 2003 i just hooked mine up due to the issue of running rich(see post"running rich after reaching operating temp". i unhooked the bov and that solved my extreme rich condition. i hooked top nipple to a pressure source and w/ the adjustment bolt tightened up im still ok w a/f ratio. i am still tightening the bolt since i am still not reaching my previous boost level as before. i get what i assume is release of pressure from the bov(like the safety feature) while on boost. i get a stumble once i get to about 8-9 psi but i still have half the bolt to tighten up yet, i was getting 12 psi before i set it up this way. i do believe however that as well as getting a little bit more chrisp release in system after shifting, that somehow my throttle pedal has less resistance and the turbo spools up faster but this my be my imagination. i will try again today after work to tighten adjustment bolt some more to hopefully reach 12 psi. will advise./later Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jr_ss Posted March 8, 2003 Report Share Posted March 8, 2003 Chip... Holy Shizer, Your method of hooking the BOV up makes a huge difference. I was just messing around in the garage started the car up since it hadn't been started for awhile. Phssst, a sweet crisp air release. Works beautifully, took it around the block and during every shift, it screams. Thanks again, Glenn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zactek Posted March 9, 2003 Report Share Posted March 9, 2003 WOOOOOOOOOW!! Chiplee, YOU are the man! I drove mine today and it (HKS BOV)does exactly what it's supposed to do! Quick, crisp, totally responsive as soon as you let off the gas: no more gobble gobble! After all these years of everybody telling me to just use one port, you come along and figure it out! Someone should put this in the FAQ for everybody to start enjoying their BOV (not to mention saving their turbos and keeping them properly spooled). The car feels much better overall and I believe it has given me an even smoother idle, and that was pretty stable to begin with! Thanks again, Chiplee!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jr_ss Posted March 9, 2003 Report Share Posted March 9, 2003 If some one wants pictures of the install I have a few, just don't know how to post them on here... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiplee Posted March 27, 2003 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2003 Don't mention it gents. I'm just glad I'm not the only one who was getting less than satisfactory performance from my HKS racing bov. Hope we didn't waste too many miles on our turbos before we got it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zactek Posted March 27, 2003 Report Share Posted March 27, 2003 "Hope we didn't waste too many miles on our turbos before we got it right."- ain't that the truth, exactly what was going thru my head after I did this mod and drove for the first time. Thanks again, I've been enjoying driving the car even more, and I'll be passing this info down to others, you're the man!!!!!!!!1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiplee Posted March 28, 2003 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2003 oh yeah, well then? how about a T-shirt discount? ;D Just kidding man. I do want one though. I'll have to check out the GP post and send you some cash. XL for me please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiplee Posted March 28, 2003 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2003 I'm not sure I fully understand what you've told me here. If you have the top port on the "hks racing bov" connected to a pressure (only) port then I'm sorry but you need to go back and read carefully the connections that I've described. I don't know what would happen with it connected that way but it sounds like it's opening under very low boost pressure (8 to 9 psi) and that should never happen even with the adjuster bolt all the way out. It also explains why your car would run rich with the BOV connected. Your MAS metered X amount of air, then your BOV let alot of that air out before it actually made it to the engine so of course it added too much fuel. To recap, the top port on this BOV needs to see pressure and vacuum or simply put it needs to know exactly what's happening inside the intake manifold. The port diagonally across from that port will aid performance if it is connected to a pressure only port like the ovcp. i just hooked mine up due to the issue of running rich(see post"running rich after reaching operating temp". i unhooked the bov and that solved my extreme rich condition. i hooked top nipple to a pressure source and w/ the adjustment bolt tightened up im still ok w a/f ratio. i am still tightening the bolt since i am still not reaching my previous boost level as before. i get what i assume is release of pressure from the bov(like the safety feature) while on boost. i get a stumble once i get to about 8-9 psi but i still have half the bolt to tighten up yet, i was getting 12 psi before i set it up this way. i do believe however that as well as getting a little bit more chrisp release in system after shifting, that somehow my throttle pedal has less resistance and the turbo spools up faster but this my be my imagination. i will try again today after work to tighten adjustment bolt some more to hopefully reach 12 psi. will advise./later Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbide Posted March 29, 2003 Report Share Posted March 29, 2003 yeah i think it is just misunderstanding in reguard to the word "top" in your picture the bov is not installed and is standing up so then it is on the "top" but when installed that port is facing down and the opposite one (the one not seen in picture) becomes the top. i have my adjustment bolt 3/4 way in and have got back to 12 psi with no release of pressure that i can tell. the bov is more responsive and louder between shifts and sudden throttle closure. with only one vacuum line attached to the third port on the throttle body (the way it was before) i got compressor stall and a half a** release of boost, even with the bolt tightened all the way in -it just didn't work right. now it works great, the way chiplee suggested. however steve at t.e.p. the place i got it from, still insists that the "top" port stays unconnected. i respect his opinion, but could not get mine to function to my satisfaction that way. his concern was that if "top" port sees pressure then the turbo has to work/spin faster, because he thinks that the bov is leaking pressure during boost, in other words we still see the boost going up but the turbo is spinning at say 30,000rpms in stead of say 20,000 rpms to maintain say 12psi. i wish there was a way to see if the blow off hole (the one that boost air leaves from between shifts,etc.) was leaking boost even before we shift gears or throttle back suddenly. i guess we have to continue with this set up at our own risk. but i definately like the bov much better this way. imo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiplee Posted March 29, 2003 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2003 Roll your window down, you would hear it if it leaked even a tiny bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiplee Posted March 29, 2003 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2003 What a strange coincidence. After posting all this stuff today about this connection method, my BOV stopped holding boost on my way home from work today. It builds to 12 then opens and bleeds down to only 6psi. Something gave out. Either the BOV diaphram or the wastegate actuator diaphram but I'm pretty sure it's the BOV. Probably all those years of not flexing at all since it barely opened, and now it's been getting moved alot more than its used to. I'll pull it apart tomorrow and see what's up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiplee Posted March 29, 2003 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2003 turns out my problem was purely coincidental, and not related to the BOV or my "new" connection method. It's all better now. I had a bad vacuum line going to my boost guage and some pressure was leaking out. So it was half leaking boost and half bad signal to the guage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr._Pop-ups Posted June 3, 2003 Report Share Posted June 3, 2003 Anyhow if you look at how the 2G bov leaks past xx amount of boost you can get an idea on what I mean by BPV. From what I have read up on 2G BPV they actually leak to control boost. And let me tell you they really leak boost bad. No, the 2G BOV is plastic, and weak which is why it leaks boost. It leaks at the stock 12psi, which is why the first thing you do on a 2G is install an upper IC pipe and 1G metal BOV and then a boost controller to keep the spikes down now that everything is sealed up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dcrasta Posted June 5, 2003 Report Share Posted June 5, 2003 ANyone see this (75 bucks!) http://www.hksusa.com/products/more.asp?id=806 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbide Posted June 12, 2003 Report Share Posted June 12, 2003 i ran across the instructions that came with the hks racing bov,(which was like hand drawn), was labelled at the top as "typical racing bov instructions" - it showed the pressure port being used(seeing boost), so it appears that at one time, it was acceptable to hook up this way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboTSI Posted June 12, 2003 Report Share Posted June 12, 2003 hey I had one of them and this is how I hooked it up... the top nipple went into a T that was going into the 3rd posrt on the TB, and the nipple facing downwards on the back of the BOV I just ran that tube to the nipple on the side of the TB mouth where the OVCP goes... as for the spring and tention I just unscrewed the cap and used the stock spring and added a "helper spring" (actually an exhaust spring) in the middle of the stock spring put on the cap and after that I tightened it down adjusted it and called it good turboTSI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backslider Posted July 29, 2003 Report Share Posted July 29, 2003 I am having some weird problems with mine. I am losing boost at mid throttle, as soon as the car starts seeing boost. The car bucks and you can hear the bov venting It works fine at full throttle. The top port is attached to the 3rd nipple port on tb(closest to the firewall) Bottom port is hooked to vacuum port on the side of tb inlet(I believe this used to run the secondary air box) If I hook it back up to old way(3rd nipple to top port only) it works in its old ways, slow response, still have compresser stall Adjuster bolt is turned all the way in, as stated before it works perfectly at full throttle 22-25 lbs of boost. It also doesnt leak at part throttle when hooked up the old way. Yellow spring, diaphram is in good shape. I was going to try to connect to some different ports but I havnt had the time, any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s.kodai Posted July 31, 2003 Report Share Posted July 31, 2003 i think we are all in a bit of confusion. hooking it up the way that chiplee recomends uses the valve as a POP-OFF valve. this means it only controls the amount of maximum boost. you can hear it at part throttle because the closed t.b. butterfly is causing a boost spike over the limit set by the screw. if you hook it up with the "downward" facing nipple hooked up after the t.b., then, and only then, are you using it as a blow-off valve. if you have it hooke up this way you can test it by holding your hand over the outlet, then goosing the throttle. you will probably feel a lot of air. you can't hear it cause it is not really that much air, and the valve is HUGE, very little restiction. as a teset once, i had taped a bunch of those whistle things (you knkow, the ones with the little metal wheel)to the output, then i could hear it. this info comes straight from HKS. i also had problems, and spent nearly three hours with their technical support people. the the plug that comes out near the inlet pushes on one side of the diapragm causing the valve to open under pressuure, and the other port uses the other side, opening under vacuum. tightening the screw causes the valve to need more of whichever your used port supplies. i.e. a tighter screw needs more boost to overcome the spring, or needs more vacuum to overcome the spring. again, this info came straight from hks tech support. they DO NOT recommend using BOTH ports at the same time. not exactly sure why, but he said it would cause it not to work properly. they specifically said, that to use this valve as a blow-off, or bov, use the "bottom" port, not the "top" one. that being said, use whatever works for you (i think the other way did, you just didn't have it properly adjusted, i had to drive mine for two weeks to get it just right), but the way you have it hooked up now is a POP-OFF config. a pop-off will only open when the boost goes past a set point. a blow-off will (should) open ANYTIME there as a pressure differential between the two sides of the throttle body butterfly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiplee Posted July 31, 2003 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2003 that's nice. but you should read the whole thread. every single person who hooked it up this way said it works perfectly, with clean crisp blow offs between shifts. You can theorize and study something to death but when it works it works. And it works, perfectly as a blow-off valve hooked up the way I said. What I said was straight from HKS too so I think you're right. Someone is a little confused. No reason to figure out who though, because all of us with an HKS racing BOV have no issues what-so-ever with its performance in this configuration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zactek Posted August 2, 2003 Report Share Posted August 2, 2003 Yep, I agree with Chiplee, since I hooked up mine with both lines, it reacts quickly and doesn't leak at all. One line is T'd into the 3rd port on the TB, the other is T'd right between the wastegate and the OVCP pipe. My car is auto, and the BOV reacts as soon I let off the gas, boost or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s.kodai Posted August 2, 2003 Report Share Posted August 2, 2003 apperently you don't read either. HKS said this, not me. so when you say we are confused, you say the manufacturer if the valve is confused? mighty arrogant, aren't we??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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