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KDM 3 inch exhaust..mmmm


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same here i can get around 4 psi at about the same RPM.

 

i have a 2.5X3 inch stele pipe in my accordian pipe and that helps a little with flow.

 

well considering that's pretty much a physical impossibility I am truly happy for you

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not too much of an impossibility.  if you bog the car down to say 500rpm when taking off from a stop and have your foot to the floor i'd say it's possible to make some boost by the time you get back to 1000rpm.  now whether or not these cars can lug down that low i cannot say but i also think that their 1000rpm is a bit higher than ours  ;)
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hmm.., it should be more than 15 at idle, check for vacuum leaks, diaphram in your distributor leaking? rob NJ

 

 

Thanks Rob :) I've been trying to solve this for a while especially after I installed the KrankVents, in the beginning I have 20" before I replaced my cam to 284 then it went to 15 after the KV install it's now 10" I have to check that diaphram ..are you talking about the vacuum advance unit that you can purchase at Autozone?

Anymore suggestions would be great.

Regards,

Joe

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yep, that's the one, i think it is both advance/boost retard mechanism-would have to doublecheck my service manual, i mentioned it cause i had a vacuum leak that was

driving me crazy and screwing up my Profec A boost controler, rob NJ.

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Is there anymore possibilities that I can have vaccum leaks in the engine? If I were to block the vac advance line with my finger would I get any results??..I'm gonna try and do this during the day and also do another timing adjustment I just had all this mods(3in, KV and cam) I've been noticing these drops in vac .I dug into my archives of my car in the pix and I have a shot of it in the interior with it at idle and could clearly see in my vac guage of 20" but could not remember exactly if I already changed my cam..as I stated before after the cam install it dropped to15"

 

PS: I have no more EGR in the system and it's blocked off  the only ones I know connected now is the BOV, BCFPR, EVC4 ...anymore, sorry man just crunching myself here  ??? ???  I would like to know the best troubleshooting techniques before I start replacing parts...oh and my PCV valve that connects inline to the manilfold, the hose I'm using is 5/16, normally it has to be 3/8 I don't know if it will make any difference.

 

Thanks for listening man,

Joe

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SuperQuest_T61, i think he was trying to say that the accordion pipe thing was impossible, cause he seemed to agree with what i said about the boost.

 

and if you still think it's impossible, chip, you should reconsider, maybe just improbable!! eh?  ;)

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Thanks Rob :) I've been trying to solve this for a while especially after I installed the KrankVents, in the beginning I have 20" before I replaced my cam to 284 then it went to 15 after the KV install it's now 10" I have to check that diaphram ..are you talking about the vacuum advance unit that you can purchase at Autozone?

Anymore suggestions would be great.

Regards,

Joe

 

I have a 292 with KVs and I get 11" at idle.  I'd say your's is normal

 

And I'd say 4psi at 1000rpm is absolutely IMPOSSIBLE!!  Paaalease prove me wrong.  Then tell me how you did it without a very special mod that I'll talk about later.  the only thing you fix by putting a pipe in your accordian hose is the fact that it crushes in on itself.  You're not improving airflow one tiny little bit.  If there is a restriction at the end of the accordian hose that makes it start to squeeze shut, it's not gonna change a thing if you put a pipe in it.  You have to change the restriction, ie. eliminate the MAS, or you'll just have an accordian hose that doesn't change shape under boost.  It will still flow the same.  You will NEVER MAKE 4PSI AT 1000 RPM. EVER, EVER, EVER. (PERIOD)................. Unless you want to use a whatever that thing is that builds boost without driving the car.  I think it's called a stutter box but I forget.  Either way, you don't have that, so you don't make boost at idle.  get it through your head.

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hey if you have an auto matic and u powerbrake it u will build boost right

 

Also whats up with the quest's eating auto trans.  I think if someone would hook it up with some hi quality trans fluid, clean screens and filter, and get a big cooler on it it would live.  what do u think?

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hey if you have an auto matic and u powerbrake it u will build boost right

 

Also whats up with the quest's eating auto trans.  I think if someone would hook it up with some hi quality trans fluid, clean screens and filter, and get a big cooler on it it would live.  what do u think?

 

you would get boost but not at 1000rpm.  people, 1000rpm is where my car idles 'cause I don't have an idle air controller of any sort.  alot of quests idle at about 1000rpm, it's supposed to idle at 850 right?  150rpm is nothing, it's not enough airflow over idle to make boost, I'm sorry, no freaking way.

 

as for the tranny  I think KO posted a link to a guy's site who loves starquest auto trannies and says that with minor mods they'll support 500hp.  I don't buy that either to tell you the truth.  I do however think a bigger cooler and clean fluid and filter is always a good idea.  In fact a clean filter and fluid brought my auto back to life for now.  It wouldn't go in drive, changed that stuff and adjusted the bands, and I've put 5000 miles on it since.  It's probably a temp fix but it's prolonging the inevitable so that's fine with me.

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I bought my Quest with 71k miles on it and I bought it from the second FEMALE owner. She showed me a receipt for a $1700. rebuild @ 61k miles. By 76k miles I had fried the tranny. A few 2500rpm hole shats was all it took. I would have loved to have an auto Quest. I just don't need to be shifting all the tima as I am a bit older that most here and I have a very bad back that shifting bothers. I tracked down the guy who rebuilt the tranny and he said it might handle a 100HP 2 liter car(no torque). After looking for a HP kit to rebuild the trannywhich I could not find I switched it to a 5-speed. Another nice feature with the auto is the 32% reduction in the final drive ratio in OD compared to the 5-speed @ 15%. An auto could have a 4.22 rear gear and still be lower in OD than a stick with the stock 3.53 in OD. Imagine brake torquing the built motor to 2500 with the 4.22's and dropping the gas pedal. WOW it would hook better than a stick and fly! Alas it was/is not to be. I have a 5-speed in there now.Mark
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Mark Looks like I will ge joining the 5 speed club as well. Installed 2 bad trannys and have no hope for installing another :(

I have everything I need just the time. Anyone with a good Auto Trans for sale??? :-/

I bought my Quest with 71k miles on it and I bought it from the second FEMALE owner. She showed me a receipt for a $1700. rebuild @ 61k miles. By 76k miles I had fried the tranny. A few 2500rpm hole shats was all it took. I would have loved to have an auto Quest. I just don't need to be shifting all the tima as I am a bit older that most here and I have a very bad back that shifting bothers. I tracked down the guy who rebuilt the tranny and he said it might handle a 100HP 2 liter car(no torque). After looking for a HP kit to rebuild the trannywhich I could not find I switched it to a 5-speed. Another nice feature with the auto is the 32% reduction in the final drive ratio in OD compared to the 5-speed @ 15%. An auto could have a 4.22 rear gear and still be lower in OD than a stick with the stock 3.53 in OD. Imagine brake torquing the built motor to 2500 with the 4.22's and dropping the gas pedal. WOW it would hook better than a stick and fly! Alas it was/is not to be. I have a 5-speed in there now.Mark
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