im pretty sure its U-joints

[strang3majik]

Whenever I let the clutch out to start moving, the car bucks back and forth, and I hear a squeaking that sounds like its coming from right below me.

 

When ever I shift quickly, I get a real hard vibration that goes through the car...usually only from 1st to 2nd.

 

If Im driving along and let off the pedal quickly, the car will bounce almost, in a forward and back motion while its drifts (only in gear)

and if I apply any amount of throttle from a drift in gear, it will bounce a little (front to back (buck)) and go...(squeaking while it does this)

 

Also, if Im in a low gear...1st or second, and I let off the gas, it will squeak till I apply throttle, or disengage the clutch.

 

And, if I go in reverse, I get a constant squeak as well.

 

 

 

Im guessing this is all from the same thing, and my thought was U-joints, but, does that sound right?

 

oh...and this squeak is almost a kind of chirp.

Edited December 9, 2008 by strang3majik

[vbrad511]

Sounds like your front one has gone dry and eaten the needles in it. Don't waste time getting it changed. If that front one fails completely and you drop the shaft you're likely to have some really nasty damage.

[strang3majik]

Sounds like your front one has gone dry and eaten the needles in it. Don't waste time getting it changed. If that front one fails completely and you drop the shaft you're likely to have some really nasty damage.

 

 

didnt mythbusters prove that false? lol

 

yeah...i just jacked the car up with it in neutral, and the driveshaft even has play side to side...Im replacing them tommorrow in the day light.

 

could just go drop the clutch from 4000 and I probably wouldnt have to manually drop the driveshaft...lol...jk...dont worry

[Starfighterpilot]

You probably already know this, but do NOT forget to match mark the u joint yokes prior to disassembly. The entire drive shaft assembly came as a complete balanced unit from the factory.

 

Reassemble using the match marks so you don't upset the balance.

 

What brand and kind of u joints are you going to buy?

 

There are good ones and bad ones on the market.

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

[strang3majik]

whats a good brand. Im sure autozone not so much...

 

 

and good thing you mentioned that, because, no, I didnt know that...lol

 

 

Edited December 10, 2008 by strang3majik

[Starfighterpilot]

The MISTU stock ones would be fine for a nearly stock engine daily driver. MITSU P/N MB154261

 

I have had excellent luck with 'em. My Starion has almost 290K miles on it and I changed the u-joints only once, when it had about 180K miles on it.

 

Of course I don't beat the livin' snot out of the Starion either, altho there were times..............

 

I definitely would not get the ones with grease zerks if you decide to go non OEM. There have been many posts over the years of them snapping under hard use.

 

GOOD NON OEM U JOINTS To Use ON STARQUESTS

 

Napa SUPER DUTY JOINT (no zerk) 215-0088

 

For what It's Worth.

 

KEN

Edited December 10, 2008 by Starfighterpilot

[Shelby]

question what are you waiting for,, the drive shaft to drop off and rip the rear tail shaft off the transmition cause it will sure do that,, a simple $50 fix becomes $500 or more instantly

 

and NO you can not check u-joints with d-shaft in car

[strang3majik]

question what are you waiting for,, the drive shaft to drop off and rip the rear tail shaft off the transmition cause it will sure do that,, a simple $50 fix becomes $500 or more instantly

 

and NO you can not check u-joints with d-shaft in car

 

i had a mechanic friend tell me it was the flywheel, and that someone had not resurfaced it when putting in a new clutch...then, just today, it got worse, and started all this...and my instant thought was U-joints. Also, I need a rear tranny seal since this one is leaking

 

and I can litterally move the driveshaft side to side, and I dont think it should do that...Im just waiting for daylight tommorrow, and itll have a new one.

Ill probably get the NAPA super duty one since the closest Mitsu dealer is an hour away.

[Starfighterpilot]

You should review this link before you start removing the drive shaft.

 

http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=9...2071ef760cdb05b

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

[strang3majik]

well...the front was is new and has been replaced before and looks greased up and great.

 

the rear one does not. It wont move freely at one of the joints, and its the original.

 

 

My problem is, the C-clips are rusted fast to either the universal, or the piece the bolts to the torque tube. I cant get them out for the life of me. Soaked them in oil, tried pliers to no avail. Tried a flat head screwdriver. Then just tried to hit the center of the u-joint cap to maybe break it free. Nothing...wont budge. Cant turn it around this joint hardly either, therefore my squeaking.

 

 

 

Anyone have a tried and true method of doing this if they're rusted fast?

[Starfighterpilot]

Did you use PB Blaster? I swear by the stuff. Keep on applying it.

 

Also, did you use the largest set of snap ring pliers that will fit in the snap ring holes. The largest set will give you the most leverage.

 

You may have to heat up the cap a couple of times with a torch.

 

For

[strang3majik]

thanks Ken...got it out.

 

Now, I gotta put it back together. Its not fun at all.

 

two people and an actual tool made for the job, and they just aint going in...without a long time of brute force.

 

But, Im getting it...slowly, but surely.

 

Oh, and all the bearings just fell out of the back one...and it wouldnt turn on one of the axis...that could be my problem...lol

though these new ones feel just as tight. I got the Napa super duty ones.

[Shelby]

i hope to hell you add'd more grease to those joints then what came in them,,

 

once your all togather tap each section with a hammer to center the joint,,then it should turn smoothly, if not you mess'd something up

 

it has more to do with haveing done a few ,then how hard it is,, it's realy not hard to do at all, once you understand what your doing

[Indiana]

if you bent the ears on the driveshaft hammering in the new ujoints you might as well look for another driveshaft and start over. You really need to use a press and pay attention to what you are doing. You have to press the 2nd cap of each in too far to be able to get the snap ring in but then you say, hey this thing is stiff it barely wants to move, ok here's what you do you take a punch or blunt chisel and hit at the center of the joint and push BACK that 2nd cap so its back up against that snap ring then the joint will move freely, unless you screwed up and chewed one of the needle rollers then you get to start over with a new ujoint. That's 4 sets of two so you will have to knock back 4 caps or one each per axis. They go back like a puzzle there isn't enough room to put them in like some larger ujoints on other vehicles.

[strang3majik]

i used a press...put it all back together, and guess what...vibration and bucking problem solved...but, it still squeaks.

 

and the driveshaft rubs the tin around the back of the tranny for some reason too :confused0024: just started doing it before I yanked it, and now its doing it again.

 

they had resistance, but, it was a smooth resistance that began to loosen up if you twisted it, so, plus, my dad helped and has done quite a few in his day, and they were fine from what he said.

 

and as far as hard to do...they just didnt want to go in...almost as if the u joint was too big for the hole. Even after we cleaned the holes out, and wire wheel the inside with a dremel, then sanded the scratches out. And doused it in oil.

 

 

But, its in...I still don't know what the squeaking is though...though I did find a new problem, a ripped CV boot

does that require replacing the whole axle? Or is the cv joint itself all I need to replace.

[Starfighterpilot]

But, its in...I still don't know what the squeaking is though...though I did find a new problem, a ripped CV boot

does that require replacing the whole axle? Or is the cv joint itself all I need to replace.

 

If you hear a CLICKING noise, with the window down on the side that has the ripped boot, when you start from a dead stop, then the CV joint with the ripped boot is heading South. It is probably best to just replace it and the other side's axle CV joint too. They have probably never been changed or rebuilt.

 

But to just replace the CV boot you have to pull the axle.

 

Go to this link to see how to do replace the CV boot and rebuild/replace the CV joints.

 

http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1...7e32b9ad0cab5a0

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

Edited December 11, 2008 by Starfighterpilot

[Shelby]

that shield on the tranny is just press'd on,, it can get bump'd and out of place,, recenterit andit'l be fine

[on3 racing]

did you ever figure out what the squeaking was? im having the same issues

 

 

 

[PAFirefighter11]

didnt mythbusters prove that false? lol

 

yeah...i just jacked the car up with it in neutral, and the driveshaft even has play side to side...Im replacing them tommorrow in the day light.

 

could just go drop the clutch from 4000 and I probably wouldnt have to manually drop the driveshaft...lol...jk...dont worry

 

Proved false on Mythbusters or not, I've experienced this in person. My old Wrangler lost the rear driveshaft at 70 MPH on the PA turnpike. Took out my muffler, dented the hell out of my body tub, and did some other damage including breaking the ears off of the driveshaft. It was not fun.

[on3 racing]

myth buster have dis-proved stuff that was wrong!

 

they said you can not blow a motor up by putting coins in a motor. the dumb a$$ didnt think about the fact that the motor they had was on a stand and the coins were just laying in the botton of the intake. there are others, those guy act like they are all scientific and for the most part have huge hold in their theory.