Fanta Posted September 8, 2008 Report Share Posted September 8, 2008 Alright, here's the dealio. For awhile my belt would get stuck in a position and the car would beep and then it'd continue either forwards/backwards. Okay, fine. One fateful Thursday night it wouldn't move past a point, so I just got out of the car. An hour later the battery was dead Noticed that the motor would keep running but the seatbelt wouldn't move. Tried pushing it a slight bit and it moved. Well, now it won't go anywhere, and I can move the seatbelt hook ( well whatever you want to call what the shoulder belt attaches to that moves ) easily about an inch or so without any effort ( and can push the belt down the track to the a-pillar, but pushing it back there's a point where it just comes to a dead stop ). Motor will just keep running till after a few moments after the door is closed, seatbelt light blinks, etc. I don't think its the contact switches anymore... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slydogg Posted September 8, 2008 Report Share Posted September 8, 2008 time to replace the tape, it's not as hard as it may seem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanta Posted September 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2008 (edited) time to replace the tape, it's not as hard as it may seem. sonuvabiscuit Edited September 8, 2008 by Fanta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted September 8, 2008 Report Share Posted September 8, 2008 even Dad manage'd to fix his the motor has stop swts at each end of the hook guide,, if the swt is not shut off the motor will run for ever or untill the relay overheats , just like the power antena , it's more agrivation then actual work as with any of the interior panels r/r the strip is about like the window lift strip gm use'd for yrs , nylon ladder looking tape Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanta Posted September 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2008 even Dad manage'd to fix his the motor has stop swts at each end of the hook guide,, if the swt is not shut off the motor will run for ever or untill the relay overheats , just like the power antena , it's more agrivation then actual work as with any of the interior panels r/r the strip is about like the window lift strip gm use'd for yrs , nylon ladder looking tape ah, so it is the switches? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slydogg Posted September 8, 2008 Report Share Posted September 8, 2008 it's easier to clean the switches than change the tape, it's a good idea to clean them first anyway, be prepaired to change the tape. mine was split in middle, motor ran, no movement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted September 9, 2008 Report Share Posted September 9, 2008 Drive tape has split. The "track" that it rides in, for the most part, is actually a rectangular cross-section tube/pipe. Especially the section by the drive motor. There's no room for the tape to "come off the track." The tape is a multi-layer composite and it starts peeling apart layer by layer... as it delaminates the edges poke up/down from the belt and snag the junctions of the guide pieces which pulls the tape further apart. Ever see a really worn out tire with the metal cords poking through like porcupine quills? That's what a busted tape looks like. They are not hard to replace. You do have to remove a lot of the interior panels though. Rear seat bottom, the side panels all the way to the ceiling, some ceiling panels, the "A" pillar cover, and the plastic at the bottom of the door opening. You'll see the limit switches... remove the one at the "A" pillar (front of car) end. Then remove the seat belt strap from the "moving mouse" using the allen-wrench like tool clipped to the glove box lid. Or use a socket wrench/T-whatever tool... whatever fits. Then remove the outer half of the tape channel/guide from the motor - you'll see a white piece that "elbow" bends 90 degrees to hold the tape against the drive gear. Once that's free, you can push the tape away from the gear, and then push it upwards until the far end of the tape pushes past the now-removed limit switch. You'll see a big slot in the tape; the "moving mouse" metal bit that actually holds the belt will fit through this slot. Now you can pull the whole tape out via the front "A" pillar end or by the motor. You'll see a lot of tape runs underneath the door opening too. Mitsu used to sell the belt+guides as one giant part... but it's been sold out or otherwise unavailable for many years now. Used is your only option. Tip: get a passenger side tape... it's the same part. Usually the passenger side has much less wear on it since it gets used much less than the driver side. mike c. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted September 9, 2008 Report Share Posted September 9, 2008 Alright, here's the dealio. For awhile my belt would get stuck in a position and the car would beep and then it'd continue either forwards/backwards. Okay, fine. One fateful Thursday night it wouldn't move past a point, so I just got out of the car. An hour later the battery was dead Noticed that the motor would keep running but the seatbelt wouldn't move. Tried pushing it a slight bit and it moved. Well, now it won't go anywhere, and I can move the seatbelt hook ( well whatever you want to call what the shoulder belt attaches to that moves ) easily about an inch or so without any effort ( and can push the belt down the track to the a-pillar, but pushing it back there's a point where it just comes to a dead stop ). Motor will just keep running till after a few moments after the door is closed, seatbelt light blinks, etc. I don't think its the contact switches anymore... You do know that you should lube the steel tape from time to time CALIBER 308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanta Posted September 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2008 You do know that you should lube the steel tape from time to time CALIBER 308 Actually when it first started sticking I did just that ( well I at least think I did it correctly ) by sprayign up into the track with WD-40 ( all I had at the time ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanta Posted September 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2008 (edited) Mitsu used to sell the belt+guides as one giant part... but it's been sold out or otherwise unavailable for many years now. Used is your only option. Tip: get a passenger side tape... it's the same part. Usually the passenger side has much less wear on it since it gets used much less than the driver side. mike c. Alright, I pulled the passenger side tape this past Saturday. Did you literally mean just changing out the tape ( and reusing the same driver's side motor? ). Edited September 29, 2008 by Fanta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck641 Posted September 29, 2008 Report Share Posted September 29, 2008 Alright, I pulled the passenger side tape this past Saturday. Did you literally mean just changing out the tape ( and reusing the same driver's side motor? ). The motor shouldn't have anything wrong with it. once you pull the drivers side tape you will see all the damage to the tape. Did you pull the passenger side tape from your car to use in the drivers side? If so how do you plan on using the passenger side seatbelt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanta Posted September 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2008 (edited) The motor shouldn't have anything wrong with it. once you pull the drivers side tape you will see all the damage to the tape. Did you pull the passenger side tape from your car to use in the drivers side? If so how do you plan on using the passenger side seatbelt? Okay, so the tapes are in fact interchangeable? Also, I pulled this tape out of a Starion in a junkyard. Edited September 29, 2008 by Fanta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck641 Posted September 29, 2008 Report Share Posted September 29, 2008 yes, they are interchangable. There is a taper on the end, just pay attention when you pull the old one out which way the taper goes and put your new one in the same way. If you come across another good one I need one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanta Posted September 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2008 yes, they are interchangable. There is a taper on the end, just pay attention when you pull the old one out which way the taper goes and put your new one in the same way. If you come across another good one I need one. The driver's side one is still in said junkyard car. I'll have to really just take a good look at the thing. I've never done this, so I'm a bit apprehensive on breaking things Consider it does deal with the interior and all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jahjah Posted September 29, 2008 Report Share Posted September 29, 2008 man i hated automatic seat belts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck641 Posted September 29, 2008 Report Share Posted September 29, 2008 The driver's side one is still in said junkyard car. I'll have to really just take a good look at the thing. I've never done this, so I'm a bit apprehensive on breaking things Consider it does deal with the interior and all. It's not a bad job, It only takes like an hour or so. The biggest pain is all the interior crap. Also, there are a ton of screws in the track (I removed the whole upper part of the track and the motor to pull the tape out), but it looks like Mike C. has a better way by just pulling the tape out of the track. You want to try to get all the shavings from the old belt out of the track though so it doesn't cause binding with the new tape. After I cleaned out the track I sprayed white lithium grease in there and ran the tape through it to spread it around. Just go easy with removing the interior parts, if you do it in the right order it is pretty easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanta Posted September 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2008 Well I have the right order, I followed Mike C's directions, its how I got to it Only since I didnt have an interior clip remover I just sort of pulled things out of the way. I know about all the bolts on the tape, I have the whole 5ft assembly in my trunk right now I haven't had a chance to sit down and examine it yet, but any tips and tricks on how to remove the actual tape itself from the assembly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted September 29, 2008 Report Share Posted September 29, 2008 (edited) Alright, here's the dealio. For awhile my belt would get stuck in a position and the car would beep and then it'd continue either forwards/backwards. Okay, fine. One fateful Thursday night it wouldn't move past a point, so I just got out of the car. An hour later the battery was dead Noticed that the motor would keep running but the seatbelt wouldn't move. Tried pushing it a slight bit and it moved. Well, now it won't go anywhere, and I can move the seatbelt hook ( well whatever you want to call what the shoulder belt attaches to that moves ) easily about an inch or so without any effort ( and can push the belt down the track to the a-pillar, but pushing it back there's a point where it just comes to a dead stop ). Motor will just keep running till after a few moments after the door is closed, seatbelt light blinks, etc. I don't think its the contact switches anymore... Have you ever lubricated or cleaned the steel tape in all the years you have owned the car?????? P.S: Either, spray some Lithium Grease or Silicone spray into the Tape channel and open and close the door to try and loosen it up. Contact switches can be checked with a voltmeter. Troubleshooting: 1987 Starion FSM Vol. no. 1 Page 23-107 to 23-108. Body-Seat belts. It also goes through inspection and replacement procedures: Pages 23-109 to 23-114. If you don't have the FSM, Go here: http://www.starquestgarage.com Stop asking and download the f--king information !!!! CALIBER 308 Edited September 29, 2008 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slydogg Posted September 29, 2008 Report Share Posted September 29, 2008 you need to remove the white plastic piece under the motor, 3 bolts, or maybe two bolts one screw, it's been awhile, just slide it back away from the motor gear, pull the tape forward to remove it, from the a-pillar, be sure to clean the white plastic piece before you re-install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanta Posted September 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2008 Have you ever lubricated or cleaned the steel tape in all the years you have owned the car?????? P.S: Either, spray some Lithium Grease or Silicone spray into the Tape channel and open and close the door to try and loosen it up. Contact switches can be checked with a voltmeter. Troubleshooting: 1987 Starion FSM Vol. no. 1 Page 23-107 to 23-108. Body-Seat belts. CALIBER 308 Contact switches are fine it turns out. Awhiel back I sprayed some litium grease up into the track where it slides. I suppose when I take it out I'll find out what exactly happened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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