1980Gbody Posted August 24, 2008 Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 my temp gauge does not work and i went to autozone to buy a new temp switch and i cant find were the switch goes on the intake manifold could anyone help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAinsworth Posted August 24, 2008 Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 This link should help: http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.p...eq=si&img=2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1980Gbody Posted August 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 the sensor thats in that location on my car has two wires ran to int instead of just one thats whats making me confused Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1980Gbody Posted August 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/1980gbody/Picture027-1.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1980Gbody Posted August 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 bump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted August 24, 2008 Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 The 88-later cars used a different temp sensor from the earlier cars... it's a 2-prong sensor and is actually two sensors in one body. One is a heat-sensitive resistor that feeds the dash temp gauge; the other is a HOT/COLD switch that triggers the dash climate system and auto tranny overdrive. Most parts stores probably try to sell the early model temp sensor with only one prong. You need the correct one. mike c. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted August 25, 2008 Report Share Posted August 25, 2008 Napa has them special order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1980Gbody Posted August 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2008 Napa has them special order. thanls ill shoot up to the local napa and order one how much ruffly will it cost Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted August 27, 2008 Report Share Posted August 27, 2008 About $18. http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLM...perature+Sensor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted August 27, 2008 Report Share Posted August 27, 2008 another parts changer,, one main point of this site is to teach guys the proper way to repair their cars , but it's been said you can lead guys to the proper way to do things but odds are they won't listen the last thing you do is swap parts, trouble shooting saves lots of $$$$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAinsworth Posted August 27, 2008 Report Share Posted August 27, 2008 Try switching prongs with the two wires. Jimmy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted August 27, 2008 Report Share Posted August 27, 2008 how about replaceing them wire ends i see a yellow 10ga crimp connector on an 18gauge wire ,,use the red ones for 18gauge wires useing the wrong crimp connector is realy a bad thing to do,,i like to solder the connetor after crimping not 100% always nessarry but useing the proper size connector is nessarry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1980Gbody Posted August 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2008 i tried switching wires , ill try new connectors on them those were form the previous owner trust me i like doin thing the right way the first time then u dont have to worry about it again i thought i needed a temp switch for the gauge and when i was online looking at napa it was like $118 and $106 form advanced auto parts whats the difference between the temp switch and the temp sensor sorry im new to the whole fuel injection turbo thing im use to messing around wiht carburated v8s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted August 28, 2008 Report Share Posted August 28, 2008 (edited) the indash temp gauge uses a sender,,,the a/c uses a thermo swt,,it's off when cold and close'd when it warms up , a sender changes resistance as the temp changes,, the swt is just on or off you can not test for power to the gauge sender with a test lamp, use a volt meter ,the power signal is a weak pulse not a full time voltage another thing thats very common,,the terminals for the incar fuses become loose, the fuse tests good but does not make a connection to the terminal it plugs into,, you can bend the terminals togather to make a tight connection Edited August 28, 2008 by Shelby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1980Gbody Posted August 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2008 so my car has two temp sensors 1 for the ecu and 1 for the gauge then right Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlattopMike Posted August 28, 2008 Report Share Posted August 28, 2008 It should have 3. 1 for the ECU. 1 for the guage. 1 for the A/C shut down. If my memory is correct, the 1 for the ECU is 2 prong. The 1 for the guage may or may not be 2 prong. The 2nd prong would have something to do with an auto tranny. The 1 for the A/C is a single prong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted August 29, 2008 Report Share Posted August 29, 2008 yes there are two temp sensors or one sender and one sensor,,in your pic the sensor with the two wires pointing up at the hood is for the ecu temp sensor,,the one with the two seperate wires on is for the indash gauge,,before you go replaceing any thing you need to check for voltage to the sender,, with a volt ohm meter NOT A TEST LAMP if you do have voltage to the wire use a jumper long enought for you to be able to see the dash gauge,, connect one end of the jumper to the wire for the sendor now momentairly ground the other end while watching the gauge,,it should swing full HOT as you toutch the jumper to ground ,,power to the sender is not full 12 volts it's a pulseing 6-7 volts if the volts is reading steady you have the wrong wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted August 29, 2008 Report Share Posted August 29, 2008 FlattopMike is correct. ECU's coolant temp sensor is the 2-prong sensor on the intake manifold near the oil dipstick support. It points upwards, has a squarish connector body. Small sensor at the top of the thermostat housing/gooseneck is a switch that OPENS when the engine is about to overheat; this disables the a/c compressor. It also fails fairly frequently, killing the a/c system. Just grounding the wire bypasses it. One prong sensor just BELOW the thermostat on 83-87 cars is the dash temp guage sensor. On 88-later cars it's a two wire sensor BUT NOT THE SAME TYPE OF SENSOR AS THE ONE THAT FEEDS THE ECU. The 88-later two-wire sensor is really two separate sensors in one shell. Each prong goes to one side of a sensor; the body/threads are the other end of the two separate sensors. One is a temperature sensitve resistance... this feeds the dash gauge. The other side is a on/off switch that trips when there is just a little bit of warmth in the coolant. This enables overdrive on auto tranny equipped cars... and it also makes the auto climate computer switch from DEFROST to HEAT modes on cold days. On 88-later cars, the dash guage temp sensor wire going to the 2-prong thermostat mounted sensor is a yellow+blue wire. The on/off switch wire is yellow+green. If you get these two backwards... your dash temp guage will skyrocket to max HOT when you turn the key ON... and will probably burn out the guage. To test the dash temp guage: get a voltmeter set on a scale that can read 12 volts (typically "15V" on analog meters and "20" on digital) and hook the red/+ probe of the voltmeter to the yellow+blue wire and ground the black/- probe of the voltmeter. Turn the ignition key to ON. The meter should read 12 volts, then zero, then 12 again - bouncing back and forth once or twice per second. If the voltage sits at zero the whole time: * the dash temp guage is burned out OR * the dash fuel guage is busted. If the fuel guage reads correctly (and not 2 or 3 times what's actually in the gas tank) then it's not the problem - the temp guage itself is shot. If the meter reads a continuous 12 volts, then the "voltage regulator" function of the dash fuel guage is shorted/stuck... both the dash temp gauge and the gas guage will read way too high when this happens. You'll need a new fuel guage unit. If neither the dash temp guage nor the fuel guage read anything (they just sit at the bottom of their scales forever) but other dash guages work (especially the dash voltmeter) then the fuel guage is busted - the internal voltage regulator is jammed OPEN or has burned out. mike c. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1980Gbody Posted September 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2008 thanks havent had to much time recently but ill go pick up a tuesday after work to test it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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