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Raced an SRT-4 today and yeah.............(Pics)

BrokenquestTSI

By BrokenquestTSI,
in Just plain ol' B.S.

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BrokenquestTSI Newbie

BrokenquestTSI

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I got the studs from racetep.com and thats all i got for now. I did fix the hood but its just rigged up for now.........im kinda sad when i think about it, but whenever i see it when i go to my moms, it always puts a smile on my face. its amazing. idc what anyone says. (and most people that dont know the Quest usually got alot to say :rolleyes: ) "your car is a old peice of crap. My car runs way better......" :thumbsup: COOL MAN.

 

Anyway, im just between jobs and i got alot of bills and i dont have the money for everything just yet. But the Conquest is of course one of my top few priorities after the baby and stuff. :D Should i drain the antifreeze now since its leaking into the cylander.....? My one friend told me that it theres coolant in the cylander its not the head gasket, its the valve cover gasket. What do you guys think? i can see coolant dripping in where the second SP from the firewall is. ive never encountered anything this complex yet, but if its not the head gasket, than im still gonna replace them both to avoid it happening anytime in the near future ya know. thanks guys.

 

-BrokenquestTSi

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notfried Newbie

notfried

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My one friend told me that it theres coolant in the cylinder its not the head gasket, its the valve cover gasket. What do you guys think?

 

please don't take offense but your friend doesn't know what he's talking about.no water runs through ANY valve cover.do not let him work on it and hopefully you can find an experienced member close to you that can help you.

 

if it's going to sit a while then you may want to drain the oil and coolant.because if there's coolant in your oil then you don't want the main and rod bearings starting to rust.then fill it full of oil (5 qts,but something cheap and heavy like straight 50 weight).

 

but you will still have coolant in the cylinders so here's what i do to engines on top of what i mentioned above (that are gonna sit or have sat for a while).(but make sure you do this after you drain the coolant and before you drain the oil)you can take my advise or leave it...and on a side note i am ASE certified (two away from a master tech and build 30+ year old cars for a living...so here goes...pull the head off.clean the bad gasket thoroughly (brake kleen can be your friend),use rags/towels/a suction type tool (if you have one) to get the coolant out of the cylinders.then take a rag and some brake kleen and thoroughly clean the cylinders.make sure that you don't get any debris down them because it'll rest on the rings.after they are dry use a blow gun if you have one and get all the particles that you couldn't get to manually out.then pour some cheap atf on top of the pistons...all the way to the top.this will ensure that the cylinder walls/rings and pistons won't rust or collect junk.then put your head gasket back on and bolt your head back down,but don't torque it to specs...just 20 to 30 ft lbs...and remember to follow the head bolt tightening sequence.

 

go to the starquest faqs section and find the shop manual and down load it if you haven't already.

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BrokenquestTSI Newbie

BrokenquestTSI

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Wow, it alot more complicated than i thought. Na i dont take offense. i tell everyone that says they know whats best that they dont. Conquests and Starions are something that i need to talk about with fellow enthusiasts that have done it all before. I REALLY dont want to take the car off the road cuz i just got it on, plus because its sittin in someone elses driveway. Its already been sittin for 3 days, so i should drain the radiator and than the oil?

 

 

how much money total are we talkin here.......?

 

How long do you think this will take to fix?

 

 

 

-BrokenquestTSi-------"Damnit!"

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notfried Newbie

notfried

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um,if you're going to replace the head gasket very soon then it doesn't matter because you can't drain the cylinders without taking the head off...so don't drain anything until you are ready to put the new gasket on)

 

the bare minimum it would cost would be:

 

head gasket set-83.99

 

ARP studs-102.95

 

/\ both from Dad/Randy @ http://www.enginemachineservice.com/conquest.html

 

then 5 quarts of oil (which ever you prefer) and one quart of e'cleapo brand oil(the reason for the 1 odd quart is after you drained the oil and took the oil filter off you pour a quart of "whatevercheapest" oil in the engine to help get whatever was left in the pan after you drained it)

 

oil filter

 

1 gallon antifreeze

 

however much water it takes to fill the rest of the cooling system up after you put the new coolant in.

 

and whatever it costs you to take the head to a decent machine shop to have it pressure tested and checked for warping.(you may have to have it milled if it's warped,but hopefully not)

 

look up in the faq section for a thread on how to mod a valve cover so it will accept ARP studs.you have to cut a little bit of the baffles off.

 

that's for the "how much will this cost me?" question.

 

as for the "how long will it take?" one,well,that all depends on your skill level,patience,memory,motovation,etc...oh,and how long the machine shop takes.

 

 

here's an easy way to remove the head.

 

do not unbolt the exhaust manifold or intake manifold while they're in the car.

 

undo your turbo lines and the band clamp and pull the cartridge out with the compressor housing still on it.

 

then unbolt your down pipe.

 

then push the exhaust back off the turbo's exhaust housing studs.

 

then disconnect your hoses at the heater core(firewall)

 

remove your upper rad hose.

 

remove the dist.

 

take the a/c belt off the adjuster pulley.

 

unplug the row of three vacuum lines at the throttle body and also the one below it.

 

unplug the bigger vacuum line at the intake coming from the fire wall near the brake booster.

 

unplug the bigger vac line going into the pcv valve on the valve cover.

 

disconnect and unbolt the accelerator cable from the valve cover and throttle body.

 

undo the line going into the rear of your valve cover on the top.

 

unplug the two isc connectors by the back of the throttle body and the tps connector,also.

 

unplug the sensors that are in the intake manifold and thermostat housing.

 

unplug your two injector clips and disconnect the fuel lines at the fuel rail.

 

unplug the ground (1 wire connector) that goes to the throttle body.

 

undo the little "S" shaped hose that goes from the intake to the water pipe that runs around the block.

 

pull the valve cover off.

 

get a ratchet and a 22mm socket and turn the engine (by unsing the crank bolt) until the crank pulley timing mark is pointing at "0" on the timing cover and the little dimple on the cam gear it at 12 o'clock or just a tad before.

 

after you have that lined up just unbolt the cam gear from the cam and pop it off the cam.

 

then unbolt your head and have a friend help you to get it out of the car(you grab one manifold and he grabs the other and lift it straight up and off the dowels.

 

you may want to label all the wire connectors so you know where they go when re-installing the head.

 

i think that pretty much covers it,man...hope this helps

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BrokenquestTSI Newbie

BrokenquestTSI

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had alittle money so i went ahead and used that link you gave me and found everything i wanted for pretty cheap. thanks man. also, i had alittle bit of money so i bought an exhaust manifold gasket. so now i have ARP head studs and one of gaskets. im gonna get a metal head gasket. :biggrinumbrella1: Thanks alot man.

 

-Broken

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pure_insanity Explorer

pure_insanity

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had alittle money so i went ahead and used that link you gave me and found everything i wanted for pretty cheap. thanks man. also, i had alittle bit of money so i bought an exhaust manifold gasket. so now i have ARP head studs and one of gaskets. im gonna get a metal head gasket. :biggrinumbrella1: Thanks alot man.

 

-Broken

 

 

the srt4's are a force to be reckoned with. ive made a few mods to one for a customer of mines and its laying down 410 hpat 21 lbs, on pump gas. on race gas he put out 448hp before the fuel system ran out and didnt have enough fuel at 26 psi.

the thing is, its a total sleeper. you wouldnt know what you was up against untill hes long gone in front of you.

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BrokenquestTSI Newbie

BrokenquestTSI

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i agree. i actually like them. if i had to get one from a dealership, id buy either an EVO or and SRT-4. Ive been beat my two of them. the one race blew my headgasket and the other we didnt really have a chance to race, and it wasnt really a race at all. he just did a ricer fly-by and then i caught up to him before we both had to slow because of the police. Plus there brand new, and the quest is like 21 years old so stuffs gonna give way at maximun boost and revving high racing an SRT-4. but even if i loose, my car still looks cooler. :ylsuper:
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TurboSportTSi Newbie

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Jordan, if I were you, I would print out the process that notfried outlined for you. He knows what he is talking about. That should be all you need. If you get stuck, just shoot me an email. This is not a difficult process... just time consuming. You must be organized.

 

And I still do not get why you bought everything except the one thing you need (potentially). :)

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BrokenquestTSI Newbie

BrokenquestTSI

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lol yeah that doesnt make any sense does it? i was gonna wait for some money to get that metal gasket, but i was informed that the head has to be all the way flat which it proley isnt and that will cost even more money. So im gonna just get maybe that Head gasket set from DAD's website. And yes Notfried's directions were what i was tellin you about on the phone. Sounds good.
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franco101 Newbie

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Just curious, why do we go for the metal shimm head gasket over the stock gasket? And why arp studs?

I know they are reusable. But will they take more abuse over stock? I thought once you lean out and detonate, you were screwed . Again just curious because when I did my marnal a few years back, i just got what people told me without asking why. And yes I have the metal gasket and arp.

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workinprogress Newbie

workinprogress

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Well i didnt even know i just thought maybe it was better because its metal. Untill i was told the you might have to take it to a machine shop to get it fitted. now im gettin a stock.

Just curious, why do we go for the metal shimm head gasket over the stock gasket? And why arp studs?

I know they are reusable. But will they take more abuse over stock? I thought once you lean out and detonate, you were screwed . Again just curious because when I did my marnal a few years back, i just got what people told me without asking why. And yes I have the metal gasket and arp.

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notfried Newbie

notfried

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it also depends on how quick you let off the throttle...i've detonated a few times and as soon as i feel it or hear it i let off instantly...but if you just keep on the go pedal thinking "gee,i wonder what all the popping and bucking is" then your pistons will become Christians because they will be holy :hmm3grin2orange:
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blackpaint28 Newbie

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well again it does you no good to come close to beating an srt-4 just to blow up a perfectly good motor. a stock srt-4 to a modded quest you have a shot but to a modded srt-4 you are pis$ing in the wind. i also have a srt-4 and it blows the doors of my quest in acceleration and top speed and the quest is pretty fast, but the srt is also modded.
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