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Small Block Chevy options


Vanishing Point
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Im an old Mopar man, but you cant turn a page in a performance cataloge and not see parts for sb chevy engines. GM and the aftermarket have done a great job with this engine, and you cant hardly throw a dead cat without hitting a vehicle that has one.

A 383 stroker sounds ideal its just deciding what Generation and each pay off. The LS 1, 2, 6, 5.7 or 6.0 look great until you start looking for parts.

The aluminum block is light weight, but GM doesnt recommend boring .010 over because you run out of good silicon metal. Best option there is a new$$$$$$ block or resleave$$$$$$$ an old one. Performance parts selection is alittle thin and whats out there is $$$$$$$$$.

 

Generation 2 LT 1-4 looks better and there are parts gallore. I believe your stuck with an iron block, but aluminum heads are available.

A 450HP generation 2 383 turn key engine can be had for $6000, but does not have forged anything, that would make me shy away from it. Im looking for 600 to 800 streetable hp. This makes it a blown NOS set up that will need to be forged everything. This really starts to limit parts selection again and drive up prices.

To try and save alittle money I will need to build this engine myself, so I will need a good starting point say a TPI Firebird or a 350 truck engine. Maybe I should just start from scratch. This is where I need some input and more info. I plan on going with a Vortec supercharger and a PEFI More than likely a SDS.

I have done some reading, but need suggestions for web sites and or books.

Something to ponder when you get bored, all ideas are welcome. :idea:

Tony

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  • 2 weeks later...
Looks like you're on your way to an ideal engine and that's the problem. Forged or not.. if its a 600hp crate motor that actually makes that power... who cars what its made out of? Have you looked on ebay for 2nd hand NASCAR stuff?
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  • 6 months later...

You'd be amazed what stock cast pistons can handle for short durations.I thik these crate motors are only really meant for a weekend toy or car show car that rides in a parade;only occasionally getting on it.

i have seen a few crate motors that have forged pistons ect.But yeah they are out of my price range.

I got a stout butt small block in my pos truck I am itching to pull out and put into my Starion.If I could find a good 4 or 5 speed to go with it I may do it although I love the turbo whine.

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I have to agree w/ speed racer, ...cast pistons will stand up to a good amount of pressure, Hypereutectics will stand even more. the short comings of both of these types of pistons aren't the compressive loads that come from S/C or nitrous use, but from two other things that are typically attributed to the use of power adders.

#1. Excessive engine RPM. Piston manufacturers call it expansive loads, the centrifigual force that accompanies that heavy --------------- piston going up and down at over 6000 rpm usually is what helps it fail. The piston just slings apart.

#2 Actually this should be number one, (but I just wanted to ramble) Cast pistons are extremely brittle. They will not tolerate detonation for even the smallest microsecond. Whereas a forged piston will start to melt under detonation, a cast piston will break. That piece of piston usually ends up in the worst place at the worst time (like between the remaining piston and the combustion chamber on the upstroke) resulting in what they call.....uh,...catastrophic engine failure.

 

I'm the guy w/ the small block ford in one of these cars, and i don't get it.

Why would you want to have to deal w/ the problems that you are gonna have w/ the steering linkage? Small block chevys are rear sump motors, (all that oil sitting right where the steering linkage likes to be), You can get a brand new 392 C.I. small block ford motor w/ a race block, Aluminum heads and intake, forged pistons, & rods and a nodular Iron crank. It makes 430hp 450TQ N/A, AND (heres the good part) you can put a front sump pan on it and leave your steering alone. Price? 6595.00

And the little "sniff" of nitrous it will require to make 600 hp will make the question of reliability a non-issue.

 

I'm also the guy trying to sell my car w/o the motor, but was hit by a divine inspiration today. AND since I am going to remove the ford motor out of the thing I was faced w/ what to do w/ the body. Sell it as a rolling chassis minus motor and trans?.... Maybe. At least I'm trying. But here is my better idea. This car has already been modified to accept a rack and pinion in place of the factory steering linkage, and Like I said earlier, the very thing that makes a SBC swap a pain in the a** is where the steering is, soooo.....I'm gonna sell that rack and pinion to one of you guys, and buy another pinto rack (one that is intended for a front steer application) and relocate it forward of the crossmember. Once I free up all of that space that used to have a rack and pinion in it I'm gonna fill it with a rear sump pan that will be attached to .... A small block chevy. In the same summit magazine that i quoted you the ford motor is a GM goodwrench 350 (filled w/ cast stock internals, but it makes 290 hp and 350 tq w/o anything more than a carburetor and headers its' all brand new and costs only $1629.00 do I need 600 rwhp,? I got that already, it's going in a mustang so i can race it in EZ street here in the south. What i do want is to be able to drive this car that looks like a pro streeter and still be able to beat up on the late model mustang in the lane next to me w/ an engine that is soo cheap I can't wait till monday to go to Atlanta to pick it up.

 

Now, the moral of the story. Since you want info on this, and since you are thinking about doing it, do you want to see the conversion posted here? I figure from this reply, you'll agree I'm not too shy about offering any advice or expertice (if you can call it that).

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Not that I'm all warm and fuzzy for a SBC,... It's just that when you can get an entire brand new engine minus intake, headers, balancer, w/p and flexplate for 1329.00... I'll cut that oil pan and morph it into a front sump and do what I've wanted to do w/ that car since I modified it w/ this latest change out.........DRIVE it.

So yes,.... it is so.

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i say build a sb MOPAR and use the chevy motor for a boat anchor :lol:

 

Naah,... The mopar engine's superior weight keeps my boat from drifting better than any other engine I've thrown overboard.

 

This is another thing I don't get... Have any of you looked for any "Direct Connection" (excuse the blatant pun) on these cars to ANYTHING MOPAR?? Hello!...McFly,.. earth calling.....these cars are JAPANESE imports, not American built, designed or motorvated. (I'm sorry, I forgot the name plate)For anybody to assume that its'"sacrilage" not to install a Chrysler motor in these non-Chrysler cars is a little "skewed" isn't it?

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  • 2 months later...
i say build a sb MOPAR and use the chevy motor for a boat anchor :lol:

 

Naah,... The mopar engine's superior weight keeps my boat from drifting better than any other engine I've thrown overboard.

 

This is another thing I don't get... Have any of you looked for any "Direct Connection" (excuse the blatant pun) on these cars to ANYTHING MOPAR?? Hello!...McFly,.. earth calling.....these cars are JAPANESE imports, not American built, designed or motorvated. (I'm sorry, I forgot the name plate)For anybody to assume that its'"sacrilage" not to install a Chrysler motor in these non-Chrysler cars is a little "skewed" isn't it?

well, these do have the chrysler name on them.. :shock: ....kinda like the new chrysler cars... :idea: ....how many parts of the new chrysler cars are made by mitsu :? .......are ya catchin my point yet? :wink: THIER STILL MOPARS
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Guest Kenmarrow
I have this 87 TSI in the back yard that has Mitsubishi on every tag under the hood that I see.. The only place it says Anything else is on a removeable decal on the rear.. Chrysler my a**... Oh thats right... I also own and Chrysler PT Cruiser... imported from Mexico... hehe Go Chevy
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i say build a sb MOPAR and use the chevy motor for a boat anchor :lol:

 

Naah,... The mopar engine's superior weight keeps my boat from drifting better than any other engine I've thrown overboard.

 

This is another thing I don't get... Have any of you looked for any "Direct Connection" (excuse the blatant pun) on these cars to ANYTHING MOPAR?? Hello!...McFly,.. earth calling.....these cars are JAPANESE imports, not American built, designed or motorvated. (I'm sorry, I forgot the name plate)For anybody to assume that its'"sacrilage" not to install a Chrysler motor in these non-Chrysler cars is a little "skewed" isn't it?

well, these do have the chrysler name on them.. :shock: ....kinda like the new chrysler cars... :idea: ....how many parts of the new chrysler cars are made by mitsu :? .......are ya catchin my point yet? :wink: THIER STILL MOPARS

all of the avneger and sebrings I have owned said dodge and chrysler,but under the hood,those suckers are Mitsubishi.From the doors forward,it is an eclipse....nothing more.

And no,these cars from chrysler aren't MOPAR....they were mistubishis mostly and now they are part Mercedes.

What i would like to see is a v8 Mistubishi powerplant to transplant into one of these and call the car what it is....MITSUBISHI

Go Ford :!:

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Guest Kenmarrow

As far as which engine, I have a 1st gen 4 bolt main 350 stroked to 383 and punched 60 over. I now have cast internals and they are holding up great with the 125 HP shot I have been shooting in there. The Hypertechs did not fair so well and tore up twice on me before I switched to forged. The biggest problem with installing SBC is the oil pan. Which you all are aware of. I found a rare front sump Chevy II oil pan and then modified it so I can use high flow melling oil pump.. The steering links still hit pan, so I moded the center link and realigned. I am running on stock suspension with no problems at all. The weight difference between the stock MESS and SBC is minimal. I am running aluminum heads and intake with alum Griffin radiator. I also put in TH350 automatic so it is easier on rearend gears. On MT et radials in 1/8th mile is runs 7.55 sec at 92.6 mph. I am hoping to get with Monty and Scotty next spring meet in Ricmond area to see what the car will run in the quarter.. and up Gas to 175 hp shot :lol:

The fords are easier to install in these cars and are a great choice with a lot of available HP options. Have fun with whatever ya build... Ken

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  • 1 month later...

Bringing this back....last sunday i picked up my chevy engine. Small block 350 setup from a drag car. 468hp at the wheels in the previous car or so I'm told. I've seen the timeslips though and in a 67 camaro it was 11.2s. Three days ago I bought an oil pan for front sump. Sunday I pick up my T56 that was mated to an LT1. Pics by mid march.

 

Propeine

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Guest Kenmarrow

Three days ago I bought an oil pan for front sump

 

Now remember you will have to modify this oil pan if you plan on running a high performance oil pump like "Melling" and You will have to fabricate oil pick up tube for it too.. If you not using HP oil pump did you get pancake oil pump? with PU tube?... Just some toughts.... Good luck.. Ken

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Oil pan is setup with a pickup tube already installed for the typical rear sump application even though the pan is for a front sump application. Well I hope thats whats goin on anyway but the way I understood the advertisement thats how it works.

 

Tom

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Hello, I am in the process of a SBC swap at this very moment. I am using a GEN I SBC, running all forged internals, and a roller cam with an aftermarket MPI setup. I originally went with the front sump oil pan from the old chevy II, but was discouraged by the unavailability of a high volume/pressure pancake style pump, so then I started thinking about the rack and pinion swap to alleviate the steering linkage problem with a rear sump oil pan. I think instead I am going to modify and move the crossmember forward, design a new centerlink and go back with a low profile, 7-qt rear sump pan. I also used a T-5 tranny. Best of luck to you on your project.
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Guest Kenmarrow
Scott, If you already have the oil pan.. Just modify it like I did.. and make new oil pick up tube for the melling oil pumps..I have pics of what I did and can email them.. It is a complain and you will still have to mod the cross member and centerlink...But it is do-able.... Ken
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  • 1 month later...

Kenmarrow,

I've seen pics of your install,,very nice, my question is, what headers did you go with?

I'm in the process of installing a sbc gen1 late model hyd roller, 1 piece rear main seal block. It should be done in about a week. I kept the stock location oil sump but cut it back some to clear the linkage, modifed the pickup and removed the mounting pads on the crossmember. I have a bunch of headers from f-bodies and was planning on using for the pass side edelbrock shortie header and on the drivers side, a stock 4 gen corvette header. When i did a quick mock up, the headers seemed to fit,,it might be alittle tight, but i can modify them on the fly if need be.

My buildup was going to be a streetable 350ci carb'd but since i have a bunch of fuel injection parts sitting around,still very streetable, just that i'm going fi, so i decided to modify a LT1 intake to fit a set of ported 462 casting heads, a custom hyd roller cam 218/230 dur, 1000cfm TB and a gen 6 DFI mated to a 700r4 trans. Speaking of trans, i heard that there is a slight bit of clearancing needed to the tunnel, is that true?

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Guest Kenmarrow
Headers, I used Headman Full tube headers for 1966 Chevy II. They have steering gear in same location.. I had to slightly mod the header at pitman arm. As far as the tunnel, I did all my clearence issues with a big Fkn hammer. In the areas with double flooring, some heat from torch helped hammer. All this has to do with how low you set the engine, lower the engine less clearence issue in tunnel. It is tight and I used stock trany mounts on fabricated crossmember to oem location.
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