mike1157

And you hit it right on the button, Button. M.ore O.ptional P.arts A.re R.equired After spending 15k on the ford motor in the car already, I'm all tapped out.

Naah,... The mopar engine's superior weight keeps my boat from drifting better than any other engine I've thrown overboard. This is another thing I don't get... Have any of you looked for any "Direct Connection" (excuse the blatant pun) on these cars to ANYTHING MOPAR?? Hello!...McFly,.. earth calling.....these cars are JAPANESE imports, not American built, designed or motorvated. (I'm sorry, I forgot the name plate)For anybody to assume that its'"sacrilage" not to install a Chrysler motor in these non-Chrysler cars is a little "skewed" isn't it?

Not that I'm all warm and fuzzy for a SBC,... It's just that when you can get an entire brand new engine minus intake, headers, balancer, w/p and flexplate for 1329.00... I'll cut that oil pan and morph it into a front sump and do what I've wanted to do w/ that car since I modified it w/ this latest change out.........DRIVE it. So yes,.... it is so.

I have to agree w/ speed racer, ...cast pistons will stand up to a good amount of pressure, Hypereutectics will stand even more. the short comings of both of these types of pistons aren't the compressive loads that come from S/C or nitrous use, but from two other things that are typically attributed to the use of power adders. #1. Excessive engine RPM. Piston manufacturers call it expansive loads, the centrifigual force that accompanies that heavy --------------- piston going up and down at over 6000 rpm usually is what helps it fail. The piston just slings apart. #2 Actually this should be number one, (but I just wanted to ramble) Cast pistons are extremely brittle. They will not tolerate detonation for even the smallest microsecond. Whereas a forged piston will start to melt under detonation, a cast piston will break. That piece of piston usually ends up in the worst place at the worst time (like between the remaining piston and the combustion chamber on the upstroke) resulting in what they call.....uh,...catastrophic engine failure. I'm the guy w/ the small block ford in one of these cars, and i don't get it. Why would you want to have to deal w/ the problems that you are gonna have w/ the steering linkage? Small block chevys are rear sump motors, (all that oil sitting right where the steering linkage likes to be), You can get a brand new 392 C.I. small block ford motor w/ a race block, Aluminum heads and intake, forged pistons, & rods and a nodular Iron crank. It makes 430hp 450TQ N/A, AND (heres the good part) you can put a front sump pan on it and leave your steering alone. Price? 6595.00 And the little "sniff" of nitrous it will require to make 600 hp will make the question of reliability a non-issue. I'm also the guy trying to sell my car w/o the motor, but was hit by a divine inspiration today. AND since I am going to remove the ford motor out of the thing I was faced w/ what to do w/ the body. Sell it as a rolling chassis minus motor and trans?.... Maybe. At least I'm trying. But here is my better idea. This car has already been modified to accept a rack and pinion in place of the factory steering linkage, and Like I said earlier, the very thing that makes a SBC swap a pain in the a** is where the steering is, soooo.....I'm gonna sell that rack and pinion to one of you guys, and buy another pinto rack (one that is intended for a front steer application) and relocate it forward of the crossmember. Once I free up all of that space that used to have a rack and pinion in it I'm gonna fill it with a rear sump pan that will be attached to .... A small block chevy. In the same summit magazine that i quoted you the ford motor is a GM goodwrench 350 (filled w/ cast stock internals, but it makes 290 hp and 350 tq w/o anything more than a carburetor and headers its' all brand new and costs only $1629.00 do I need 600 rwhp,? I got that already, it's going in a mustang so i can race it in EZ street here in the south. What i do want is to be able to drive this car that looks like a pro streeter and still be able to beat up on the late model mustang in the lane next to me w/ an engine that is soo cheap I can't wait till monday to go to Atlanta to pick it up. Now, the moral of the story. Since you want info on this, and since you are thinking about doing it, do you want to see the conversion posted here? I figure from this reply, you'll agree I'm not too shy about offering any advice or expertice (if you can call it that).

--I have it! I figure that by posting this thread I'll save others countless hours of frustration,... unwanted blisters on their typing fingers,... red, bloodshot eyes from lost sleep spent wondering, if an engine (other than the one that came in the car will fit) So here goes: #1 Does anybody make a kit? As stated above, if you are contemplating swapping in ANY other engine in your car the first answer to all questions concerning the swap is NO, THEY DON'T MAKE A KIT FOR THAT! #2 Will it fit? The way to determine a fit is simple, get a tape measure and go to it. #3 Will it be difficult? YES, it will be difficult. (swapping in another motor requires more than you think) #4 Did I think of everything? After you've measured everything, did you stop to make sure the steering and crossmember will accomodate the swap or could be safely modified to accomodate the swap. ( the last thing you want to do with these cars is cut or modify the very things that insure the car will still handle predictably and safely) Because leaving stuff out so that you can "cross that bridge when you come to it" has resulted in a bunch of guys stuck on the bank because they find out the hard way that there isn't a bridge to cross when they come to it. #5 Will it mate to the transmission? Just getting it to fit the engine compartment doesn't mean your done. Obviously getting the thing to work with your transmission will sometimes require more junk than it took to get the motor in there, and using the transmission that came with the motor will still require a refabbed trans mount, a different driveshaft length,and a "modified" tunnel just to name a few. #6 Do you have the skill to do it? (relying on your buddy whose dad has a "most excellent set of tools" will come back to haunt you after you've cut the car up and modified stuff that can't be returned to stock when dude can't figure out how to hook the dooflunkey to the whacha-macallit.) Consider the following: If you cant tackle each one of these obstacles before you go out and buy the "deal of a lifetime 900 hp supercharged wombat powered in-line 3 cylinder"...... LEAVE YOUR CAR ALONE, OR LEAVE IT TO A PRO AND BRING YOUR WALLET! (Because if you have to post a question concerning any of the above,... you really should)

I have (two) of the same turbos for sale. both turbos have less than an hour total time on them. One is a 4 bolt exhaust and the other is a 5 bolt(don't ask me why i have two different flanges but they're both the same i swear) .63 A/R on the turbine same on the compressor(2" discherge, 3" inlet) 2) 2.5" downpipes I also have two Tial 38mm wastegates and one 1000hp rated air/water intercooler (3"in/out) I tial 44mm (I think) BOV all for 2000.00 (and I want to sell it all) If you cant buy it all or don't need it all, get a friend and split it. Mike 205-337-8950

I'm giving you the chance to buy the rolling chassis, are you ignormaling me?

O.K. you guys hear from me once every blue moon, and guess what,... the moon must be getting ready to turn color. I have finished and have dyno'd and track tested the twin-turbo'd 362 c.i. small block ford that fits (like it was supposed to be there from the factory) in my conquest. The motor is a motorsport R-302, bored and stroked to produce the aforementioned displacement. It is injected w/ 95 lb/hr injectors and has two Garret 57 trim T3/04 hybrids hanging out front of the headers. Although the turbos will only make 17 p.s.i., the chassis dyno here in birmingham reads 687 hp. Did I mention that it fit w/o cutting the firewall??? Did I mention that since it is a front sump pan you can leave the rear steer linkage completely alone? Did I mention that because of the same front sump pan, you only have to notch the stock cross member as opposed to completely cutting it away? Did I mention that because it is a domestic engine, a domestic transmission (i.e. a T-5 ) will fit w/o any special spacer plates?