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Help a girl out with her project.


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Hey guys, I dont know if this is the right forum to ask but Ive been searching for about a half hour and cant find what Im looking for.

 

1. I need some instructions on how to relocate the digital AC unit to where the radio goes and vise-versa relocate the radio to where the AC unit sits.

 

Problem is the cables to the harness for the AC are too short. I have an 86 btw.

 

2. Can someone please gimmie the speaker sizes for the two small speakers under the dash?

I took the dash completely off and both speakers are torn.

 

Thanks in advance fellas!

Charlynne.

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I can't help you with relocating AC/Heater Controls. I have read that you have to get out your soldering iron and build yourself an extension harness.

 

The dash speakers are not matched.

 

The passenger's side dash speaker is traditional 5 1/4 inch.

 

The driver's side dash speaker is 4 inch with a twist. It must not be thicker than 1 7/16 inch. Otherwise, it will not squeeze between dash and plastic heater vent/duct.

 

Browse around and you will find my "replacing dash speakers" post. I used some sort of Pioneer 3 1/2 inch speaker. The problem is that it rubs against my plastic heater vent/duct. Air whistles when I have lever positioned for fresh/outside air.

 

Also, make note of ohms rating of factory dash speakers. Study Ohms law. The door and dash speakers are wired together parallel for 1987 and newer. I don't know about 1986. They are wired in series for 1985 and older.

 

When speakers are wired parallel, never replace a 8 ohms speaker with a 4 ohms speaker.

 

Two 8 ohm speakers wired parallel yields 4 ohms at stereo/amp.

Two 4 ohm speakers wired parallel yields 2 ohms at stereo/amp. Without required 4 ohms of resistance, your stereo/amp will run hot -- eventually shorting out your stereo/amp.

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Charlynne, I think it should be printed on the magnet what the ohm rating of the speaker is.

 

Finding aftermarket 8-ohm speakers of any kind of quality will prove to be difficult.

 

Most people disconnect the dash speakers and just use 4-ohm speakers in the doors. or if youwere to put separate woofers and tweeters in, you could mount the tweeters in the dash locations and the woofers in the doors.

 

I use an amp to power my speakers, rather than the deck, so I just ran my stock dash speakers in parallel with my new 4-ohm door speakers.

So far they have held up to 85 watts per channel pretty well.

 

 

Turborusty

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I probably shouldve taken pics while I was doing it. But the harness on the AC module is long enough. You just need to move it to underneath a single din deck. I ended up bending the tabs on the sides of the module and used screws from the stock double din to attach it to the lower portion of where the stock radio was and this is a long run on sentence....

Im sure others have done it alot cleaner than me(hopefully they will chime in on this). Ill try to get a pic up tomorrow.....

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Don't know about putting the radio up top.

Most people move the AC down with a single DIN radio and put gauges where the AC controls were.

 

That's what i did.

I beive Artinist used thin wood spacers when he moved his AC controls down.

I used steel plate that I cut and drilled holes in.

 

You move both the keypad and the control box.

You need to cut the tabs off so it fits cleanly.

 

Check out one of my galleries at www.mostarquests.com

 

http://www.mostarquests.com/index.php?name...ls&album=24

 

There is a couple pics.

I have a ton more along with a write-up.

I'll have to create a gallery and post all the info.

Maybe tonight

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Thanks Richie, thats exactly what Im looking for!

 

I'm gona remove the dash speakers this weekend and run some volts through the system see if they run parallel or not.

 

I just think it would sound alot better if I run 6 speakers instead of 4, and I dont really wanna spend too much money on an independent sound system.

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Thanks Richie, thats exactly what Im looking for!

 

I'm gona remove the dash speakers this weekend and run some volts through the system see if they run parallel or not.

 

I just think it would sound alot better if I run 6 speakers instead of 4, and I dont really wanna spend too much money on an independent sound system.

 

Use your ohmmeter to check ohms at the connector to your stereo. Experiment by unplugging either dash or door speaker. I don't know for certain whether your 86 is wired in series like my 85 or in parallel like 87.

 

If your door and dash speakers are wired in series, when you unplug either speaker, you will have an open circuit.

 

If you would like to add speakers, consider component speakers -- crossover, tweeter and woofer.

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I disabled the oddball speaks in the dash on my '87. Jusy had a decent set of aftermarket door and rears, and she sounded pretty good. Added the amps and sub-box in the hatch and WOW. JMHO, the dash speakers would do more harm than good, especially if you wired them in with the door speaks. You'd have no fader/balance control on them to even out the sound. Am I making sense? Sometimes more is not better.
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The best suggestion I have for the dash/door speakers is to go with a "component" set up. What you'll have is a mid/low level driver for the doors, and then a tweeter, and ONLY a tweeter, for the dash. You need nothing else in the dash for proper "phasing". Plus, the pair will be connected, giving you proper ohm (impedance) load. I say to not even use the factory speaker wiring, so there's no doubt what's going on. Getting your + and - terminals correct is very important. USE the dash areas for speakers, cuz the locations make a huge difference in your sound quality. The component setup will most likely give you a 4 ohm load, which is usually ideal for deck and/or amp power. For subwoofers, you try to get down to 2 ohms, as long as your amp is 2 ohm stable. Nowadays, most amps are.
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  • 1 year later...
The best suggestion I have for the dash/door speakers is to go with a "component" set up. What you'll have is a mid/low level driver for the doors, and then a tweeter, and ONLY a tweeter, for the dash. You need nothing else in the dash for proper "phasing". Plus, the pair will be connected, giving you proper ohm (impedance) load. I say to not even use the factory speaker wiring, so there's no doubt what's going on. Getting your + and - terminals correct is very important. USE the dash areas for speakers, cuz the locations make a huge difference in your sound quality. The component setup will most likely give you a 4 ohm load, which is usually ideal for deck and/or amp power. For subwoofers, you try to get down to 2 ohms, as long as your amp is 2 ohm stable. Nowadays, most amps are.

 

You can go way under 2 Ohm for subs. I was running 2 12" MTX 8000 series the back in the day ones when MTX actuly had good people making stuff 96 97 I think and I was pushing them with a PPI amp forgot the model running at .5 Ohm's stable with a huge cap, and I hit 140 dB as for getting the Ohm's raiting you need for your stock speekers there are ways of wireing to do it depending on the speakers you get.

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